|
If I decide to convert a modern build barn (breeze blocks), what sort of amount of insulation should I use.
I have been looking at the Thermafleece. The builder I spoke to initially didn't want to use it and wanted to put a fibreglass roof on it. So I am looking for another builder.
I am guessing that fibreglass isn't very green and a timber roof with something on top (ie felt?, don't think I can afford tiles) would be better with maybe warmcel to insulate it.
What could I put on the outside (I think I will need to cover it as I will be bricking up some holes and cutting in new ones. Do I just use render or is there something better?
I have been reading stuff on the internet (a little knowledge is very dangerous) that putting lots of insulation in will reduce my heating costs in the long run......but I'm guessing that there comes a point where extra insulation provides little extra benefit.
Sorry this is so long...any thoughts or helpful suggestions?
|
|
Try and use something with the same thermal properties as the existing walls for bricking up. How long term is this nursery project?
Tiles will be the best medium and long term roof. Insulation over the ceilings would be good. May be a new insulated floating floor and the walls may even be ok as they are as you will only be heating intermittently yes? so the benefit of insulation is reduced but it is still better to have some either inside the walls or external insulation.
As us some questions like what would cost me least or what would be most economic as well as what will be greenest. Thermafleece is desperately expensive it would be cheaper to but sheeps wool!
|
|
I suggest you insulate externally with at least 100mm of insulation.
You could use heraklith boards and render over.
As for roof you could use onduline which is cheap and not too bad to look at.
|
|
Well I (might) be able to get a grant for green stuff.....for up to 50%
I was looking at a log cabin - but it cost too much
I might have to have a portacabin - but I don't want one (although cheaper I would need 4 ramps at £3k a ramp....that's alot of ramp)
So converting the barn would be good
But I don't know where to start really
I have just realised I will also need a damp proof course (damn)
How much extra height would the floating floor be (& what sort of cost?)
Is insulating externally a good idea - I will still need to dry line the inside (I thought that's where insulation went)
I will google heraklith boards & onduline (cos I don't have a clue)
Sorry to be so thick guys (but I am trying)
|
|
Katymac, You are right to think there is an economic 'optimum' thickness of insulation. I would suggest that the current building regulation u-vales for roofs and walls are about right though others here will disagree. Floors are more complicated in their assessment but generally if they are suspended [ventilated] then they should be treated in the same way as a wall. If they are solid [on ground]the payback will be a long time.
The thickness you need of any particular material will depend upon its thermal conductivity. 250-300mm sheeps wool in a roof for example should meet current requirements.
|
|
OK - so far this has been suggested
Damp proof membrane on the floor
Lay wet underfloor heating then screed
I have a 9 inch block, with 2 inches cavity wall insulation then a stud wall. (but only as high as the suspended ceiling)
I use "ONDULINE OVERSHEETING" on the roof - brick up the spare holes cut new ones (standard sizes) for windows and doors
I render the outside with tyrolean render (I'm not going to use the heraklith boards because I only need to insulate as high as the suspended ceiling)
I can put 8 inches of insulation on the suspended ceiling and put some vents in the roof
Would any of that work (apart from not being terribly green)
|
