Does anyone have experience of using green oak for external cladding. How did you fix it, was twisting a problem, any tips?
Tony
posted on 09-03-06
It would like very much to twist! Although most people fix oak with ferrous fixings ( nails ) it is a good idea to avoid this and use something else the fixings corrode and stain the oak as it contains slightly acidic oils. Ensure everyfixing is doing a good job.
Stainless steel might be ok but I always use brass screws! Though I rarely fix oak cladding more often joinery. May be ring shanks would be best too.
Jim
posted on 20-05-06
European Larch is much cheaper and almost as durable. also shrinks less.
Biff
posted on 21-05-06
Or Douglas fir or western red cedar would be plenty durable enough without any treatment so long as the detailing allows water to run off. Oak is more likely to develop cracks which could let rain in behind the boards.
Green Dragon Barn
posted on 31-05-06
Don't know about cladding as such, but green oak makes hightly effective fascia and barge boards. There's a picture at http://www.greendragonbarn.co.uk/, from which you can see that the fixings are galvanised nails. The boards have been up about five years now, and there's no staining...
fostertom
posted on 01-06-06
Biff, yes, Western Red Cedar including homegrown, and Larch, for cladding - but Douglas Fir? That's only classed as semi-durable and I reckon to use it in at least slightly sheltered and/or free-draining situations. If you say it's good for cladding too, that's good news. Would that include sawn shiplap?
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