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    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009 edited
     
    http://www.tonyshouse.info/

    All help and comments gratefully received
    •  
      CommentAuthoragu
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Tony,

    Just had a look and am very jealous indeed!!! It looks great and I am pleased your doing it if it's been 30 years in the planning then I bet you can't wait for completion. I was thinking about thermal stores for solar gains etc and in my dream house ( in my head ) I alway thought it would be great ( site earth permitting ) to have some internal walls as rammed earth walls. Just an idea that while labour intensive could be very cheap. Best of luck!
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Tony
    Great site - thanks for sharing. It's nice to see some of the stuff that gets talked about in here in action!
    What's the U-value of your walls, and how is that made up (what insulation?)
    I thought you might have looked for solar gain with more S-facing glass. Was there a reason why not (planning)? I presume you had no real choice over the orientation of the house generally.

    It would be interesting to hear generally about which "green" ideas you chose to use, and which ones you chose not to use, and why.
    • CommentAuthorStuartB
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Good luck Tony! I am also curious as to why your windows aren't bigger. Also is there any particular reason other than storage why you went for a basement?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Stewart, I fancied a snooker table! It is planning free option.

    U values of my walls are 0.1 likely less recycled aggregate block, 300 fibreglass cavity fill, 100 brick, insulating wall ties

    Problem with solar gain is it will overheat my house and at night lots of glass looses heat like crazy -- in winter it is darker longer too.
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Tony, great site, and very accesible. The simple layout makes it easy to get around, and the content is great as it show what's done in a real house. Can't wait to see the build progress.
    • CommentAuthorJulian
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Well done Tony - worth waiting for. The site is excellent - will follow progress with great interest. And I think you're right about windows and sizing of.
    Julian
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Sorry if dim, but I see nothing about the interseasonal store - how implimented?
    •  
      CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Good site, best of luck.... and btw, nice car!

    Timber
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    Interseasonal thermal store. still to be added to the web site ( give us a chance ) I only started building in December! aint had time to write it yet.

    Before starting to build I drilled five 9m boreholes on the site, two of these are for my interseasonal thermal storage. They are approximately central under each half of the house. On digging out the basement we were careful not to damage the pipes loaded into and grouted and managed to carefully re route them to in line with the central basement wall. These pipes will carry warm and hot water down under the house to a depth of 6.5m below the basement floor. The heat will be from the deliberate excess of solar thermal capture during the summer months. I will probably have to insulate the basement floor to stop it getting to warm down there!

    I have three loops of pipe one full depth in each bore hole and one half depth in one bore only.

    None of the holes hit any water! Two of the other are for drainage and one for a poor mans gshp or “earth tube” set up to pre warm incoming ventilation air.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2009
     
    I like the photos best - what a tidy job. It's so simple and clear, but inspirational, to put up a web history like this - I think I'll copy.
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    I think looking at such projects from the perspective of the builder/self-builder is one of the most valuable resources in an environment where journalists pick and chose content to suit the often loaded agenda of their articles.
    Thank you Tony for being so open with your experience in this case and providing such a valuable resource to students and practitioners alike. It is easy for journalists, politicians, lecturers and construction professionals to talk rhetoric but the reality is often far removed from the ideals being purported. Hence why I have tried to push the use of free or low cost website tools on the forum.
    Anyway :
    Just wanted to query the ring beam mentioned in the diary but not visible on the details.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    Been a bit coy about it as checking engineer and my engineer are at loggerheads about it!

    Hollow blocks with starter bars to 600 below gl then 225 x 225 reinforced ring beam with cantilevers for basement light wells.

    The row is about what if I drive too near the building with a hgv.
    • CommentAuthorludite
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    I've bookmarked your site. Great photos. best of luck with everything.:smile:
    • CommentAuthorhowdytom
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    Great site Tony, hopefully more detail in time, keep up the good work:bigsmile::cool:
  1.  
    Tony,

    great to see what you're doing - best of luck,

    Paul
    • CommentAuthorsimeon
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    Hi Tony.

    Fantastic. High quality and low energy use is the Green way to go.

    May I ask?

    Are you planning to be on mains gas and electricity? If so, do you have a target amount of energy usage? E g 10 000 KWh a year.

    Are you planning any solar pv and / or solar thermal?

    You mention a soak away. Does this mean you are not going to be connected to the mains sewer? If so, may I have the affront to enquire about your toilet arrangements?

    Thank you and well done.

    S
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009 edited
     
    Is your borehole heat exchanger going to be something like this ?
    http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20080202723

    And would it be worth installing hydronic pipework in a screedless underfloor heating system just in case you find you need additional heating at a later date. Just thinking cost/benefit especially if it avoids being chased round the new house by wife wielding a rolling pin cos the house isnt warm enough.
    http://www.jupiter-system.com/product-eco.php > screedless underfloor heating system

    Would also enable cooling of the basement if the interseasonal store works a little too well/unpredictably.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    Ali, I will put in a couple of long loops of pipe in the g/f screed but it will probably never be needed but I agree with you I put in just in case -- Thanks

    Bore hole stuff not the same.

    Simeon, no mains gas -- yes mains electricity with push pull meter and tracking solar array on car port roof and possibly some fixed pv on roof. I think pv will drop in price dramatically over the next 18 months so I wait in hopes. Mains electric til the.

    Solar thermal evac tubes -- will have 110 x 1800 mm tubes on roof some SE some SW and use excess to charge interseasonal store.

    We only use other peoples toilets -- never would have one in my nice house :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    Tony I'd have thought, to deposit appreciable amounts of heat distributed in a large chunk of subsoil, you'll need massively greater heat transfer surface than whatever you can put in 2 9m boreholes?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2009
     
    I am only looking for slow in slow out so hopefully not. Like over six months to partially charge up and several years to reach almost steady state.
    • CommentAuthortomsusweb
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2009 edited
     
    I don't know much about building so please excuse me... but... Tony in the '10 worst mistakes in British building' thread you have Cavity Walls. Can you explain simply to me what makes the walls you are building not 'cavity' - they look like it to me - albeit with a fantastic amount of insulation!

    (Thanks for the excellent website and information - a great resource.)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2009
     
    My walls are recycled aggregate block walls externally insulated with 300mm of insulation and the bricks are cladding and could be a whole range of other materials instead but the planners wanted brick so I was stuck.

    The thing I think that was the biggest mistake with cavities was assuming that the air in them was acting as insulation which it does on a test bed (hot box) but in the real world the air moves and worse gets into the house too.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2009
     
    Any of you like to take a stab at maximum heat loss for the whole house 20 indoors and -3 outside? 240 m^2 -- soon real calculated ones will be on web site.
  2.  
    Posted By: tonyAny of you like to take a stab at maximum heat loss for the whole house 20 indoors and -3 outside? 240 m^2 -- soon real calculated ones will be on web site.


    I'll take a stab at it - need to know the window dimensions and locations as well as any overhangs that shade them as well as the wall dimensions and section details (it sounds like you have brick:airspace:300mm insulation:aggregate:plaster). Also need to know the basement wall details (how much above and how much below ground as well as the rim joist (or equivalent details). How is the roof insulated and constructed? What location in the UK so I can run a full year's simulation as well (needed for the insolation figures).

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorTheDoctor
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2009
     
    tony,

    is this a sneaky way of getting Paul to do your sums??!!!:tongue:
  3.  
    Posted By: TheDoctoris this a sneaky way of getting Paul to do your sums?


    LOL. I already did some rough calculations for Tony a while back.

    BTW Tony, that 32 year old Saskatchewan Conservation House report is very interesting as if talks about simple technologies such as MHRV, waste water heat recovery, air tightness, perimeter insulation around the foundations, passive solar and evacuated tube collectors - plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Interesting that they figured that no heating would be required until the temperature was below -3C - pretty much passivhaus performance in a UK context.

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2009
     
    :smile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2009 edited
     
    i wonder if theres any chance of getting funding/equipment to monitor the thermal performance and humidity of the house on completion and to see how long it will take the thermal mass to get to a steady state considering the in-built moisture content of the masonry and the weather conditions. any universities near you tony?
    stuff it.. i'll hire a thermal imaging camera, bring my hygrometer and you can pick me up from the train station. the rate you're going it should be all done three weeks on friday !!
    you could get the neighbours over to do a sponsored run round the basement to get it warmed up.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 20th 2009
     
    I did write to the local university -- zilch (they will be sick when they realise what they missed)

    I will have lots of thermocouples buried in the fabric and some in the ground. I will monitor temperatures and log them.

    Water used in building will all go within six months and steady state will be reached for the house after a couple of months but the basement will take longer.

    Thanks for the offer -- I would like to take you up on the offer may be in the late autumn (happy to pay)-- I 'm petrified of thermal imaging cameras though.
   
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