Vanilla 1.1.4 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
1 to 24 of 24
Posted By: tonyhopefully you wont need any ufh or heating" alt="" src="http:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" >
Posted By: joe90what about using this type of construction?http://www.viking-house.co.uk/passive-house-foundations.html" >http://www.viking-house.co.uk/passive-house-foundations.html
Posted By: Paul in MontrealWhy not include a basement? Then the "ground" floor will be the ceiling of the basement and you won't have to use concrete. You could use engineered trusses, tongue and groove plywood on top and then, if you want UFH, embed the pipes in lightweight concrete on top of the plywood. Or gypcrete rather than concrete etc. If you do it right the basement will only be half buried so that you can have some windows to let in light (bottom of the window is at ground level or just below). This minimizes the amount of excavating you have to do. For the basement floor, you can either put insulation under it or not, so long as you insulate the outside of the basement wall. Once you're a couple of feet below ground level then it doesn't make much difference if the floor is insulated or not. Then there's also no worries about thermal bridges between the top of the basement wall and the structure above. Or if you're doing masonry construction anyway, go the whole hog and do the entire building using ICFs :) Though the anti-concrete people will be down on you like a ton of bricks.Paul in Montreal.
Posted By: Mike GeorgeHi Mark. Just to let you know that Basements are now considered non-material amendments which can be added to a previosly approved scheme. So the Planners cannot relly refuse if you play your cards in the right order. Non-material amendments are also free [at the moment]
Posted By: tonyLife style and a semantic questioni would insulate under the slab as it them becomes part of the thermal mass of the houseFor intermittent heating you could go aboveFoe nice comfortable living under is the way to go if indeed any insulation is needed at all -- I ve included the ground under my house into the thermal massI have no formal heating to pay for, install or maintain and its 20.5 in here today.
Posted By: MarkBennettXPS insulation on both sides of blocks down to foundation level.Insulation (Optional depending on view of ground as insulator)
Yes, the version for masonry walls ("G" Element) www.viking-house.co.uk/passive-house-foundations.html looks pretty good. The blockwork and external insulation look too thin, so the ringbeam would probably need to be scaled up. Anyone know where one can get EPS 300?
Posted By: Viking HouseYes, the version for masonry walls ("G" Element) www.viking-house.co.uk/passive-house-foundations.html looks pretty good. The blockwork and external insulation look too thin, so the ringbeam would probably need to be scaled up. Anyone know where one can get EPS 300?You would need some load calculations on the weight of your house to see what size ringbeam you will need but it can be widened quite easily. We built a house using this foundation system using 9 inch cavity blocks with 250mm external insulation in 2007 and it works fine. I personally think that concrete blocks steal heat that you don't have and are mostly cold to touch, that's why I prefer Quinnlite or Aircrete blocks. There are a few manufacturers of EPS 300 in the UK but the foundation system is patent pending. We usally charge €500 for the use of the patent and all the technical back up required to build your foundation, we can produce drawings for €150 extra, our information is usually sufficient for an Engineers sign off but it would be best to talk to the engineer first. The excellent prices we have negotiated from the EPS manufacturers are passed onto each client, so the €500 is easily won back.Both foundation systems have been passed by the Passiv House Institute and it seems to be the only foundation system available that allows you to build a Super Insulated Cold Bridge free cavity wall.The 150mm Quinnlite wall seems to be sufficent if you use ringbeams at every floor.
© Green Building Press