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    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2011
     
    I've seen some of the comments on here relating to EPS/block or brick but haven't yet found anything on EPS to OSB. Relevant points about numbers of fixings, location of fixings, dealing with tapered gaps etc have all been duly noted.

    The render is going to be a 15mm scratch-back job so heavier than the 3 to 6mm offerings.
    The total height to be suppported is 2.4m
    There won't be any support under the lower face of the base row of EPS blocks except during application.
    The question is:
    given these parameters, does anyone have any preferences/recommendations for makes of bonding agent, and of fixings,
    for EPS100HD "Silver/Grey/Platinum" 150mm to 18mm OSB3 on 145mm studs?
    I've found too many bondings already ... Illbrook, Howstik, Tytan, Bolix, Mapei, 3M .... and it may well be that they're all as good as eachother, so some narrowing down, on the basis of other people's experience, is needed!
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeJul 15th 2011
     
    bump .....
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeJul 15th 2011
     
    .... try sprayable adhesive....? 5/25 litre tins, sprayable via a pressure pot, or maybe thinned down via a gravity spray gun....

    Good luck... :smile:
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeJul 15th 2011
     
    PVA?
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2011
     
    i dont think i would just trust to an adhesive. but would also use some machanical fixings? all adhesives would probably require a clean dry substrate, can you really provide that with osb timber frame outside on a building site?
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2011
     
    Posted By: an02ewi dont think i would just trust to an adhesive. but would also use some machanical fixings? all adhesives would probably require a clean dry substrate, can you really provide that with osb timber frame outside on a building site?


    ... well the OSB has been stored dry from delivery, and covered in DPM once up ...

    The guy who's turning up to apply the render is suggesting "maite" ... the same stuff he's putting on the outside to bed mesh into before applying the top coat/s of render (which I think must be the PAREX system)

    I've asked about mechanical fixings but no one seems to use these except for fixing to masonary ...

    Posted By: DarylP.... try sprayable adhesive....? 5/25 litre tins, sprayable via a pressure pot, or maybe thinned down via a gravity spray gun....

    Good luck...:smile:" start="fileopen" height="15" alt=":smile:" ismap="false" hspace="0" loop="1" src="http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/smile.gif" width="15" vspace="0" >


    Hi Daryl, I've been really careful to get a flat surface so shouldn't need any extra thickness to take account of bowing etc, so spraying would be fine. A quiet bit of trowel & roller is more my style though!

    I guess I'll defer to the renderer's experience? :neutral:
    • CommentAuthorhairydude
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2012
     
    Mike,

    Do you have any feedback on the fixing of the EPS?

    I'm looking to fix 150mm EPS to OSB but then fit battens and timber cladding rainscreen - I'm not comfortable with adhesive only option - did you use mechanical fixings in the end?
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeMar 26th 2012
     
    I've recently used "Soudatherm Roof 250" PU spray foam to attach PIR to OSB3 on a flat roof - it seemed pretty good. Their site has a nice test result sheet for EPS to OSB3 bonding. Third of a ton uplift strength per square meter under their test conditions (have a dig around for the PDF). You'll need some mechanical fixing - at least until it's set to ensure good contact.

    Cheers,

    Tim.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2012
     
    hairydude,

    BTW, I have a similar build-up intended - 100mm PIR (non foil faced), then roofing breather membrane and battens then renderboard, and thin-coat.

    I'm thinking of using the aforementioned PU foam between the OSB3 and the PIR, and clamping the build-up to the wall whilst the adhesive goes off. For the permanent mechanical fixings, I'm thinking of stainless helical nails through the battens, PIR, and OSB3 into some more batten at the back.

    How I fit the battens and stop it all going south or introducing too many thermal bridges is a bit fuzzy at the moment, but will probably involve some combinations of supporting the batten from below, PU and/or MS-polymer adhesive, and stainless steel fixings.

    I'll let you know what I come up with.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2012
     
    Thanks for the Soudatherm tip, Tim - very timely, and Parex and Souda are talking to OK it. Think we'll use it anyway on current job, vertical as well as slope.

    Has another great advantage - 0.036 lamda, so unlike normal EPS/EWI adhesive, can happily enter the joints between the boards - in fact the edges can be glued 'as you go' rather than retro-filled with squirty foam after the adhesive has set.

    The Soudatherm will prob also serve as the 'bubble-glue' we're already using to glue n screw the 9 OSB to the stud frame.

    In all, ano2ew of this forum, as builder, thinks this de-specialisation allows him to board-fix as part of his work, only employing EWI-specialist plasterers for the render finish. So great - thanks.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2012
     
    Posted By: TimSmallI've recently used "Soudatherm Roof 250" PU spray foam to attach PIR to OSB3 on a flat roof
    Tim, where did you get this from, having trouble finding a source.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomThanks for the Soudatherm tip, Tim - very timely


    Glad it was of use...

    Some usage tips based on our experience:

    If applying at temperatures sub 10 degrees, then best to keep the tins warm (e.g. bucket of warm water - as it happened, they fitted quite nicely in our kettle - warmed to ~30 degrees) - Soudal said they're fine down to 5 degrees, but didn't really seem to work very well below 10 in our experience. The cans cool somewhat during prolonged usage due to de-pressurisation, so best to pre-heat.

    As with most expanding foams, cold or insufficiently shaken tins (shake every minute or so during use) will result in you running out of propellant before the tin is empty.

    If the board or substrate are at all non-flat, then you'll need to ballast reasonably heavily or clamp with sufficient pressure to keep the materials in good contact for about an hour - if you don't do that, but instead apply pressure for too-short a period (e.g. Soudal's recommended period for normal flat boards), then you end up with little stringy towers of hardened glue holding the board and substrate apart (viewed from the side - imagine looking into a dense pink forest) - resulting in an uneven surface and a (relatively) weak bond. Mechanically fixing with sufficient density (temporarily or permanently) would also solve the problem, as would using smaller boards I think.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2012
     
    Perhaps a bit late but aircraft wings have been made by laminating wood to EPS using epoxy resin (not polyester). Use a paint roller to apply, Vacuum bag or weight down while the glue sets. The EPS will break before the joint.
  1.  
    Hi Timsmall, could you email me? ta!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2012
     
    Even later. Have just been playing with ply and insulation, and have been bonding both PU and Polystyrene to it with Resintite, seems to work a treat.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJul 3rd 2012
     
    an03ew promises to write the full guide to this question - got it working well.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 3rd 2012
     
    Well i don’t know about full guide as time is short, but i have discovered a great adhesive for insulation to insulation or as in this case insulation to timber, a low solvent spray contact adhesives called "DM Easy" which i currently buy from www.creffields.co.uk. This adhesive is available in smaller 400g aerosol cans or 13.6kg canister (£160) the later requires a onetime purchase of hose and spray gun (£120) i use the canister and gun system available in clear and blue but find the blue easier to see on the white EPS which helps to get a good even cover.

    Simply spray even cover to both surfaces and wait 3/4 minutes till touch dry then align and press together, no second chances with this glue so make sure it’s in the correct place.
    This is a costly product and there are the set up costs too, however after some research I cannot find another product that works this well, I have glued up an 80m2 insulated slab formwork using two staggered layers of 150mm 8x4 EPS to create 300mm thick formwork that was strong enough to support reinforcing beams and mesh and a team of 5 ground workers pumping and laying concrete, this glue really does hold. We are also currently using it as an adhesive for EWI with 150mm EPS to OSB3 with a Parex polymer render top coat.
  2.  
    Hi an02ew, reading this with interest! Do they use that adhesive to make SIPS panels do you think? have you tested the structural strength? I'm interested in this to create more attic space in roofs and as a base for the full Solar Roof we're working on.
      SIPS 3.jpg
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 4th 2012
     
    Hi VH

    I could if its the same glue as used in SIPs panels, isnt SIPs celotex type insulatio anyway? as for structural strenght, i remember during my research tech guys from supplier quoted 3/4 ton wind tunnel test holding strenght per m2. which is more than good enough for EWI to OSB.

    Funny thing is i have you to thank for this discovery. you may remember that we talked about 3/4 months ago about passive slabs design you very kindly passed on your EPS supplier in Ireland that had the equipment to process EPS into complicated shapes that could then be arranged to form the insulated formwork. we did have a good quote from the company but the delivery charge from Ireland was way too expensive. so i had to reseach another way.


    Great looking product in your picture, i have no doubt that this adhesive would stick the osb to the insulation in the picture. i will post pics of my insulated formwork pre concrete if you tell the pic format i should use( have tried many time and failed)

    cheer
  3.  
    It would be interesting to see the pictures. JPG format works for me.

    David
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJul 6th 2012
     
    an02ew - did you try anything like the soudatherm roof 250? The bond it give is stronger than the 150kPa PIR board which I used it on (and I did my own failure tests to make sure).

    If-so, how does it compare to that contact adhesive?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJul 6th 2012
     
    Go on andy - you've plenty to say about that, then i'll chip in
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJul 6th 2012
     
    Sounds ominous...
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012
     
    Stuck for time again, so just a quicky:shocked:

    I did manage to get hold of two cans of the soudatherm 250 (roof fix) free as a trial, and after talks with Soudal the manufacturers was informed, there is in early production a revised versions for wall fixing? The 250 product stuck very well and i can imagine that for roof fixing when gravity would hold in place untill the adhesive cured it works well, however for us wall fixing, the product needed holding in place untill it cured or a series of planks and block to sucure untill cured.

    The DM EASY product as a contact adhesive and once stuck is cured. however if Soudal can delevope the new wall fix product and address the curing time they will get my vote.

    Will try to post pics of passive insulated formwork for my foundations that i made using DMEasy and 2 layers of 150 EPS tommorrow.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: an02ew</cite>Stuck for time again, so just a quicky

    This is my quicky.
    Cost me a bucket but feet stayed dry.

    http://youtu.be/LWrokkSA1Ig
    As usual, the highspeed rural broadband that is bringing wealth and prosperity to Cornwall isn't
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012
     
    NickinKernowAbout 15.5 kW/m^2.

    Are you sure you don't mean 15.5 kWh/m^2? :tongue:
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012
     
    :shamed:
    So used to typing W the fingers refuse to type an N.
    Though I suspect that it failed due to bending moments rather than pure shear.
    Still, can hang a lot off it, especially if static.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012
     
    Nice test ST, what adhesive was used? what was the application? what is the curing time?
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2012
     
    sorry for crop on pic cant seem to get anything larger than 500kb uploaded any suggestions
      P1040331 (2).JPG
  4.  
    Posted By: an02ewsorry for crop on pic cant seem to get anything larger than 500kb uploaded any suggestions
    email them to yourself first, make a GBF file to save them and post the pictures from the GBF file.
   
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