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    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: RobLInstalling a timed shower would not get internal planning approval.
    Installations without planning approval invoke removal of privileges.


    This, I find, is the flaw with much of what is suggested on this forum...
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2012
     
    You suggesting that not enough women air their views on here :bigsmile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: JSHarris
    Posted By: SteamyTeaHalve your shower time is another way


    Just fit submarine shower valves. They have a timer and on-off button. The first press of the button gives you 30 seconds of water, then the water turns off while you lather up. The second press gives another 30 seconds of water to rinse off. Any subsequent press of the button has no effect, so you're limited to 1 minute of shower water in total.


    problem with this is the time it takes to get hot water to the shower!!!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2012
     
    Tom Foster can tell us about the benefits of cold showers :cool:
    (I was in the sea on Monday, it is horrible and cold I can tell you, but not as cold as standing semi naked on a rock for an hour after)
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaYou suggesting that not enough women air their views on herehttp:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" >


    Maybe when both sexes stop equating the feminine ideal as one so far removed from our natural state we'd get a bit more eco-parity. I would still recommend short showers for all. But there are better things to do than faff with long winded energy-sapping routines, I'd ban hairdryers, staighteners, hair removal on a daily basis.

    and even more off-topic (for balance)

    Is it that on the whole men eat more and produce more methane.
    • CommentAuthorJoiner
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012
     
    Had to laugh at the idea of a timer on the hot water side of the shower system, turning off the hot supply after a set period had elapsed. But then, having given it some thought, and allowing my baser instincts to prevail, I could see the merit in it if linked to a video camera. The shriek followed by the crash of the shower enclosure door being flung open...! :rolling:
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Joiner</cite>Had to laugh at the idea of a timer on the hot water side of the shower system, turning off the hot supply after a set period had elapsed. But then, having given it some thought, and allowing my baser instincts to prevail, I could see the merit in it if linked to a video camera. The shriek followed by the crash of the shower enclosure door being flung open...!</blockquote>

    More than one submariner has been caught by the rinse water shutting off whilst he was still covered in soap. It's something of a standard tale amongst those old enough to remember when our old boats had very limited fresh water supplies (they make 1000's of litres a day of fresh water on board now, using the surfeit of power they have from the reactor).
    • CommentAuthorMarkBennett
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: JoinerHad to laugh at the idea of a timer on the hot water side of the shower system, turning off the hot supply after a set period had elapsed. But then, having given it some thought, and allowing my baser instincts to prevail, I could see the merit in it if linked to a video camera. The shriek followed by the crash of the shower enclosure door being flung open...!:rolling:" alt=":rolling:" src="http:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/happy/rolling.gif" >


    I had a similar experience a few years back when I'd forgotten about a scheduled power cut, which then occurred halfway through my (electric) shower resulting in having to rinse myself off in a dribble of cold water. You wouldn't have wanted to see it on video though.
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2012
     
    I've made a start on a waste water heat recovery unit. It's basically a pipe in a pipe design, using 35mm and 42mm copper pipe, unequal T pieces, and reducers to make up the ends. Like all of this style, it must be installed vertically for the waste flow to form a skim on the inner face.
    The active length is 1.5m long, limited by what I could feasibly install in our house. I've attached a piccy of one end of it, the other being similar.

    I appreciate there's only one copper skin between waste and fresh water which may be a bit iffy, however I'm happy with it for personal use because:
    -Waste water is at atmospheric pressure, cold is above
    -Cold water would be from header tank, not mains water
    -Waste water copper pipe is unbroken; no solder joint integrity is required for separation of flows

    To follow:
    Soldered version -- not that neat :-(
    Test results
    Tweeks
      P1020545B.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2012
     
    look illegal to me sorry! water regs are very tight and dont allow any possibility of mixing new and used water-- is it fail safe?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2012
     
    Make another one just like it so you have two heat exchangers, small pump to transfer the heat.
  1.  
    Hi,
    The main design consideration in these grey water recovery units has always been how to spread the flow such that it forms a layer down the inside face of the casing. The spray unit has to cater for many different flow rates and including soap etc slightly different viscosities and so forth. There is a tendency for it just to whistle down the middle. If you relay on a fully filled casing then you have a shell and tube heatX, and the usual equations would apply, failing that you have to get the max amount of the hot water spread out over the shell, and allow for a large amount of air in there.

    Cheers, Mike up North
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2012
     
    Is there any scope for helical vanes, like those you see on steel industrial chimneys?
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    Tony -
    I don't know if mine complies or not, but so far as I can tell it's similar to this unit which does:
    http://www.itho.co.uk/service-support/literature/installer-manuals/shower-heat-recovery-60-installer-manual
    (If the above fitted in our house, I would just buy it)

    As to whether it's safe, and fail-safe - yes to both. It doesn't rely on anything I've made for safety, but solely on the 35mm pipe integrity. In the unlikely event of pinhole pipe failure, header tank cold would leak out via an air gap to drain.

    It's much safer than the 2 coils in our DHW tank each of which have dodgy chemicals at the same pressure as the DHW water - so any pinhole here is very iffy, chemicals straight into DHW and you'd never know. 35mm pipe is thicker than 15mm, again safer.
    As I mention, it's all from a tank in the loft, and not mains pressure so there's an air gap & can't affect mains.

    ST - good comment, guess that's always an option if need be. Really rather not though, the power levels involved are very high (8-20KW, naughty shower), but the deltaT is very low (25C in winter expected)- so adding another heat exchanger in series won't do efficiency any good at all.

    Anyway enough of the hand-wringing, here's a nice graph of my first test of performance. It's tested at an equal flow rate of 6litres/minute hot & cold into the two sides of the exchanger. Power saved is actually just power prevented from leaving the heat exchanger - whether it's heating up bits of copper or the cold flow, I class it as saved. That's why the power saved is very high to start with, then levels out. I get a steady state efficiency of 28% long term. To be honest, I'm a bit disappointed with the figure, I want more. I note the itho unit, when scaled back to the size of mine, achieves 50% - so that's my target!
      heatEx_test1.JPG
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012 edited
     
    When we discussed the water regs and the Itho units before, I believe that we found that they are compliant by having a double walled inner pipe, so providing the legally required degree of separation between incoming cold and waste water. The other unit that's very similar to the Itho (can't recall the maker, but it's mentioned somewhere earlier in this discussion, I believe) has a tiny gap between the inner tubes (one of which is slightly corrugated) with an indicator drip pipe connected at the bottom, so that the user can be ensured of the integrity of the double walls.

    The point about ensuring the waste sticks to the sides is a good one. When I played around with some scrap PVC pipe to see how this might work, I found that introducing the waste pipe in to the central pipe at a tangent at the top worked very well. This caused enough swirl to ensure that the waste water stuck to the wall of the inner pipe.

    My idea was to wrap the copper inner pipe with a spiral of two or three paralleled copper microbore pipes, of around 8mm diameter. These would carry the cold incoming water and could, I believe, be soldered to the inner pipe and still be compliant with the water regs.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    Or just go for a batch process.:wink:
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    Hi JS - I've scoured the itho pdf I linked to, and I can find no reference to a double skin. It shows a detailed picture of the heat exchange wall, where I would expect to see it. Interestingly they have cut a spiral into the inner copper tube, for better thermal coupling/turbulance reasons?
    Maybe an untested product (ie. diy) using 2 tested pipes is perfectly ok (eg your microbore around pipe) and a single skin pipe arrangement like itho/mine/dhw-tank is ok if tested?
    Microbore wrapping and soldering is technically beyond me I think.

    Hi ST- batch is out, anything that big got the thumbs down by her who must be obeyed.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    Batching would fit in a water but, including loads of insulation, it is only a couple of bath loads at worse, a couple of showers worth at best. Hole in the ground, for store not wife, you don't want to save too much energy :wink:
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    My other favoured design was storing waste water in the house envelope, until it had cooled. This could be a very long pipe, or it could be a tank. I'd have to store 30-100litres of water for many hours to recover the heat, and would want to disable it in summer. It has the disadvantage of being big, and being limited in efficiency as house temps are higher than cold water temps.
    They did that here (and re-used the waste water):
    http://theyellowhouse.org.uk/
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    May it could be used in the 'WaterWall':wink:
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    Posted By: RobL: “My other favoured design was storing waste water in the house envelope, until it had cooled. This could be a very long pipe, or it could be a tank.”

    This is what is done in the “Yellow House” in Oxford: bath water is stored in a tank in the downstairs utility room where the heat seeps out into the house. That tank is drained by being used to fill the cistern for the downstairs toilet. Some heat recovery and some grey water reuse. Quite neat I think.

    http://www.theyellowhouse.org.uk/themes/heatwat.html#h14
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    The problem with any DIY design of shower heat recovery system is demonstrating compliance with an acceptable standard, most probably EN1717 in this case. It's expensive to even get hold of the standard, let alone demonstrate compliance with it, yet failing to do so (or show compliance with another acceptable standard) is a criminal offence.

    As you are required, by law I believe, to notify the water supplier when installing something like this it's hard to see how you could get away with pleading ignorance should something go wrong and the water supply become contaminated. The criminal penalties are serious enough that I'd not consider doing a DIY solution unless on a private water supply (the regulations are intended to protect the public supply, so don't apply to those with their own borehole or spring-fed supply).
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    JSH is the water regulation still enforcable if a DIY solution is applied to water from a storage tank (not mains pressure) as RobL says above, therefore there is no way any contamination can backflow into the mains? and you would not connect tank water to a tap in case you drank it anyway.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012
     
    TBH, I'm not sure. I believe the requirement to notify the water supplier is still there, and technically the legal issue appears to be over the separation of two classes of fluids (the regs divide fluids into 5 classes), and the water from the tank would still be in a much safer category than the water in the waste pipe.

    Clearly a tank with an overflow outlet lower than the ballcock inlet would be an acceptable back flow prevention method, but the regulations still seem to imply that all fittings have to be approved, even those downstream of a tank, it seems.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2012 edited
     
    Bathroom taps come off the tank sometimes, and people brush their teeth from that tap.
    Since the Camelford incident, nearly 25 years ago, the water companies are pretty good at notifying people when there is a problem. We may get narked with what seems like petty rule, but we do have exceptionally good drinking water here. We should be proud of it (though not the 6 quid a tonne I pay).
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2012
     
    Yes, historically taps in bathrooms could come off the tank in the roof but I dont know anyone who does that now. Finding a dead pidgeon in a customers loft tank certainly put me off the practice:tongue:
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2012
     
    Don't the tanks have to be sealed to prevent too much of the local wildlife from crawling in there to die these days?
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeJul 2nd 2012
     
    Thanks for the heads up on dodgyness of installing this - TBH it's all a bit irritating that there may be no way around such that I can use anything homemade (my opinion of its safety is irrelevent, fitting a check valve doesn't get around the rules). So far as I can tell, every single water fitting must be WRAS approved, and even then approval must be granted for certain items (baths, bidet's, showers, pretty much anything that might use a lot of water - can't see a classification for this item). You might get away with an exchanger based on a pipe wrapped around a pipe, only insofar as you have two WRAS approved objects? Or maybe not, as simply rasing the temperature of mains cold over 25C changes its classification from "wholesome" to class2, which is dodgy in itself.

    I'm going to ask my plumber what he thinks. He ought to understand WRAS & regs. There's even a free route to asking the local waterboard (Cambridge), so I'll try that too. I'm not holding my breath though.

    We plan on installing a rainwater harvesting system for our house in the future, for DHW. I know that's odd, but our family suffers from exzema, and whilst we filter for chlorine, the water here is very hard (dries skin, bad for excema too). My understanding is that this would ONLY be a way out if the system were completely separate, and had no automatic tank fill from the mains (as is usual with rainwater systems). Gah.

    Somewhat academically, I tweeked the heat exchanger by soldering a spiral of tinned 2mm diameter copper wire to the inner pipe, to make the cold water spin as it goes (cheeky copy of the itho unit, except they cut a screwthread into the copper pipe). It increased efficiency quite a bit, now it reaches a steady state efficiency of 50%. WooHoo :-(

    Will report back if I get any joy with this :-(
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 2nd 2012
     
    It is good playing with things and seeing them improve isn't it.
    The design may come in useful for something else, a towel warmer maybe?
  2.  
    I've been made aware of another player in this field - http://www.recoupenergysolutions.co.uk/

    Seem to have a wider range of products that some of the other suppliers, with similar pricing.

    They are SAP rated, but I can't seem to find any mention of WRAS approval. I'd be surprised if you could get a SAP rating for a non-approved product, so they are probably approved.

    No affiliation etc.
   
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