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Posted By: nbisharaSo....what have I misunderstood/what have I missed out/ what should I do?! I should add that I don't have trickle vents on my dg and I have no extraction in my bathroom or kitchen. Hell, I don't even have a letter box I've been so paranoid about air infiltration ;-)
Posted By: nbisharaI found an interesting Ukrainian model, with a ceramic core, that didn't have a heat exchanger as such, but expelled the air through the core for 70s and then took air from outside through the same core for 70s. Somehow I quite liked this idea, until I saw the line that the core "moistened", as well as warmed the air. Great for continental climates that can be very dry in winter, but not so great when you're trying to get rid of the humidity.
Posted By: nbisharaPositive Input VentilationCons: On all the time; cold(ish) air coming in to house. I do worry about what the Architect said about moisture and the fabric of the house - where does all that damp air go? It can't just dematerialise! Will this be more of a problem as I increase air tightness or should I just give up on that?
Posted By: nbisharaPositive Input Ventilation with solar warming
Posted By: wookeyWhy will MHRV over-ventilate if your house is not tight enough? If you have a model with separately controllable input and output speeds you should be able to allow for quite a lot of 'excess' air. The catch is that you lose exchanger efficiency because some fraction of the air isn't coming in that way, but I don't see how you get 'too much' ventilation (unless airtightness is terrible)
Posted By: suegreenbuildingI am the sort of person that has to have the bedroom window partly open even if it is minus six outside.
Posted By: joe90Is it not possible for a controller for MVHR to only switch it on if the air is "bad" (CO2/RH) so if you open a window or simply by using the house, doors open etc the MVHR does not come on. This is surely "green" as it does not waste power running the unit when its not required?
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