Home  5  Books  5  Magazines  5  News  5  GreenPro  5  HelpDesk  5  Your Cart  5  Register  5  Green Living Forum
Not signed in (Sign In to the Green Building Forum)

Categories



Green Building
"The most popular book on green building in the UK today."
New fourth edition in two volumes!

Order both books now for the combined price of just £17.00
and free delivery!

(free delivery applies to UK addresses only).

Or get both books for just £15.00 if purchased at the same time as a subscription to Green Building magazine



Vanilla 1.1.4 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications:: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    Ok, so the plan is to oversize the solar thermal (ST) collectors and use two smaller solar cylinders as opposed to one huge one, the first (DHW) will take priority and reheat quick due to its size and the oversized ST collectors, when heated the second cylinder takes all the excess heat and ducts it away under the house into a AGS. the heat will be ducted in two separate 100m coils of under floor heating pipe rated at about 10 watts per/m so about 2kw each coil held in shape by wiring them to a cylindrical wire cage around 1m diameter and 2m tall, then backfilled with compacted sand and the new insulated floor system over.

    The insulated floor slab will not allow the heat to rise up through the floor but deflect it under the very old cottage ( AGS pies placed up tight to cottage walls) which can well do with the all the heat it can get and with more mass than any other part of the build will also store the excess heat.

    I realize that i should put more effort into the AGS with down stands of insulation and maybe even a concrete bund but it’s just a dump for the excess summer overheat. The idea is about having a solar DHW system that will quickly recharge summer or winter.

    As always all comments good or bad welcome.
  1.  
    Without insulation its more like a solar heat dump then an interseasonal thermal store. However, it can only help to increase the ground temperature & dry out the walls.

    David
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    Why do you need the second cylinder?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    With massively xs summer heat production, it doesn't matter if the AGS pies act mainly as a dump, provided that as a minor but significant by-product, a slowly expanding volume of the surrounding subsoil permanently adopts a higher-than-otherwise temperature. If that temp is higher than the target temp of the old cottage's winter interior, some heat at least will flow in that direction, along and up thro its uninsulated floor.

    Heat will also flow away along under the new extension's insulated floor, to outside air - so insulative obstructions (downstand, wing) to that flow will retain more of the heat in the subsoil block.

    The other place heat will flow away to is downward 6400km to the earth's core furnace! Or more accurately, to the 40km thick egg-shell of rock that lies beneath our surface. That eggshell is mainly much hotter than the AGS pies. Unfortunately, its topmost few 100metres has long been cooled by surface mean temp. Given enough heat input to the AGS pies, and given long enough time, an ever-expanding volume of that cooled rock will be re-warmed. Put another way, the downward temp gradient, from the AGS pies downward, will steadily flatten, so the rate of heat loss downward will decrease.

    However the hemispherical perimeter of the re-warmed volume will also be increasing, so an argument says that tho the temp gradient has flattened, the frontal area has increased. This seems to be the stumbling block to hopes of seriously useful heat storage in uninsulated subsoil. Or is it actually not a hemispherically expanding front, more like a uni-directional (straight down) non-expanding front? Or something in between?

    ST's and mike7's comments awaited!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    I can see the merit of of matching the the cylinders to input and output (based on cylinder temperature), it is just another method of storing at different temperatures (from what I gather) and probably better than a 'stratifying' store.

    The power of the coils is temperature dependant, so work out the max and min temperatures of the store and the input water to get a better idea of what is happening.

    I don't understand how the insulated slab will will deflect the energy, your dealing with conductance here not convection.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomST's and mike7's comments awaited!

    More of a cone shape with curved sides that follow an exponential curve I think
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    Thanks all for comments so far. Not the firing squad i was expecting

    David- i am using two cylinders to separate the DHW from the solar buffer and they can be very cheap/simple standard cylinder. Once my DHW has charged then a simple valve to switch all solar heat over to the second cylinder and then away to the solar dump. But DHW takes priority always

    Tom- i always appreciate your teachings, any chance i can have your brain when you’re finished with it.

    ST- A new highly insulated extension is being place adjacent to our very old cottage with the AGS coils under the extension, of the two building the heat will pass more easily into the old because of the insulated floor(down stand insulation being applied externally with a EWI system)
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2012
     
    I like the idea of dumping excess solar heat below a house rather than to a rad then the air, Viking house has a similar approach with his with his solar slab:-
    http://www.viking-house.co.uk/hydro-thermal-energy-store.html
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2012
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaMore of a cone shape with curved sides that follow an exponential curve I think
    say more? a cone implies a sharp point somewhere, which I'd have thought would round-off rapidly - so am I missing something? The curved sides - do you see them as convex, or concave, presumably asymptotic with the surface? What about the effect of downstand perimeter insulation?

    The shape of the expanding bulb of raised temp, is quite important, because it defines how strongly its frontal area (hence outward loss) increases - somewhere between linear and square law - relative to quantity of heat input over extended time. If the rate of frontal loss accelerates significantly ahead of the rate of heat input, then useful storage in uninsulated ground looks unpromising.

    However, is there a fallacy here? Where exactly (radially out from the AGS pie) is the effective front located? It's a similar question to a wall external angle clad with thick EWI. How exactly is surface area defined, for heat flow/loss purposes? wall outer surface/inner face of EWI? outer face of EWI? the surface of a notional plane half way thro the insulation thickness? or of a notional plane biased inward, to where (within the EWI) the non-straight-line temp gradient is steeper, at an external angle?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2012
     
    Andy, looking at our new pr of 2000 litre black orange juice barrels (which will store 4 tonnes of rainwater of the polytunnel), how about substituting these (£82 from Mole Avon Farmers) for the buried mesh cage that you wind your pipe around? Full of water, they'll have something like 2.5x (anyone?) the volumetric heat capacity of the soil they replace.

    Your pipes need to be well spaced - decreasing pipe spacing won't increase heat transfer rate pro rata - you may find you need your pipe to be spread, more widely spaced, over a larger number of pies, to get the input rate you're expecting. Good thermal contact to barrels might allow closer spacing, and the whole barrel would then act as a large-surface heat dissipator.

    Better still, drop your pipe coil right into the barrel!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomsay more?

    Convex when heating, concave when cooling.
    And yes it does end at a point, but on a curved surface.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomAndy, looking at our new pr of 2000 litre black orange juice barrels (which will store 4 tonnes of rainwater of the polytunnel), how about substituting these (£82 from Mole Avon Farmers)


    Great idea and cost comparable with sand, however once i build over the top i cant refill tank with water. and i think they might be too big to bury next to old existing cottage without weekening substructure.

    However since your thinking- can you come up with anythink better than sand as a backfill?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2012
     
    Fill the tank immediately on installation, sealed never to be opened again?

    Why not backfill with what you took out? Esp as you're trying to avoid having to cart away or find space for spoil.
  2.  
    Posted By: fostertomGiven enough heat input to the AGS pies, and given long enough time, an ever-expanding volume of that cooled rock will be re-warmed.
    I don't have any simulation results or measurements, but I would be surprised if the house or the solar heat dump had much affect at depths greater than the house width. Below that depth the parallel sum of the thermal resistances of all the possible heat paths to the surface makes the temperature increase under the house less & less relevant.

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2012
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughI would be surprised if the house or the solar heat dump had much affect at depths greater than the house width
    I agree, roughly, and that wd be ample. 6m deep seems to be the magic number.

    The effective width of the house can be extended v considerably by wing insulation.
    AGS literature suggests 6m width of wing insulation, on grounds of 1m per month rate of travel of a temp wavefront thro solid ground, so the wavefront of summer solar heat input to subsoil via the house's SW/S/SE window glass to internal air and uninsulated floor, travels for 6 months beneath the wing insulation towards outside air, before flow reverses during winter.
    That's perhaps spurious reasoning, but creates a v generous wing! Prob much less than that wd suffice.
    If instead of solar capture via windows to floor slab, it's done by separate collectors feeding direct to AGS pies under the centre of the floor, the 6m wing wd need to be measured from the pies, not from the house perimeter.
    Downstand perimeter insulation also effectively widens the house, by its depth.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2012
     
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012
     
    But we are missing the point, the idea is to create a DHW system that will recharge fast summer or winter with only ST panels in summer and ST plus addition wood stove or emersion heater in winter the only way i can see to do this is to oversize the ST system into smaller cylinder. This creates a glut of heat in summer that i will dump below the new build which is extremely well insulated, and our heat demand is low so even minimal gain will benefit.

    As with all super insulated house the problem isn’t so much providing space heat, which could be supplied simply by a wood stove or MVHR, but DHW becomes the great challenge, to the point that i was advised when planning this project that a small gas boiler is still the best way to go? Hopefully this method will meet our DHW demands with only minimal use of the emersion heater.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2012
     
    Posted By: an02ewBut we are missing the point

    Think I was :shamed:

    The main point about heating anything with solar is that you need a good resource, or in English, it needs to be sunny.
    So forget winter, spring, summer or fall, to quote Carol King, and start thinking how often and when you get enough good times to heat enough water to the temperature you need.
    You may find that a bit of PV direct to a resistance heater helps a lot here rather than a small gas boiler. Probably cheaper too.
  3.  
    I have looked at installing a grossly oversized solar thermal system and will give you the benefit of my ramblings! :bigsmile:

    First off talking to Viking House he told me that from his previous experience heating the soil from 10C to 20C under 300mm of EPS insulated foundations resulted in only a 50kWhr reduction in heating demand for the house.

    So obviously most of the heat is being lost along other paths rather than upwards into the house. So it really doesn't matter where you place your heat dump in this situation, go for the lowest cost option that is available to you.

    If your main concern is rapidly heating DHW then I think there is some merit in considering a flat panel drain back system with controls such that the panels drain back when your DHW hits a high limit of say 75 or 80C so you have no stagnation and no requirement for a dump load.

    The other system I have considered is a grossly over sized solar air array.

    The air can be ducted to an air to water heat exchanger in the summer time to produce your DHW and when DHW demand is satisfied the excess heat can then be vented direct to atmosphere, so again no need for a dump load.

    In mid winter you will not generate enough heat for DHW but some hot air will still be generated and can be used directly to reduce space heating demand.

    You can take a look at this link for more ideas on this:

    http://www.grammer-solar.com/cms/en/topsolar.html

    In the example shown in the link they are taking in outdoor air to the panels, but as I will have MHRV I would recirculate indoor air to the panel in order to maintain balanced ventilation. However this option reduces efficiency.

    That system is also pretty expensive currently about €8,500 for 9m2 of panels with all the controls and DHW heat exchange kit.

    I am pretty sure you could DIY a much much bigger solution for that price if you were so inclined.

    Having said all that I am pretty sure that your cheapest, if not greenest option is to go with gas.

    I don't have the time to construct the system this year but in so far as I can I will build in provision for it while I am building my house and maybe construct a 6m2 solar air panel as a test bed, I will opt for an 5kW ASHP possibly with 30 evacuated tubes for assistance.
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: an02ew</cite>Thanks all for comments so far. Not the firing squad i was expecting

    David- i am using two cylinders to separate the DHW from the solar buffer and they can be very cheap/simple standard cylinder. Once my DHW has charged then a simple valve to switch all solar heat over to the second cylinder and then away to the solar dump. But DHW takes priority always

    Tom- i always appreciate your teachings, any chance i can have your brain when you’re finished with it.

    ST- A new highly insulated extension is being place adjacent to our very old cottage with the AGS coils under the extension, of the two building the heat will pass more easily into the old because of the insulated floor(down stand insulation being applied externally with a EWI system)</blockquote>

    Read this all with interest as there are similarities in the way we're going:
    We're also probably keeping the DHW cylinder small, possibly simply re-using our existing standard cylinder, and dumping "excess" to the ground.
    This is partly because we're cash-poor and space-mean so the thought of a massive heat store doesn't sit well.
    The extension is timber frame with EWI and is adjacent to a building that loses lots of heat to the crawl space.

    Where we differ is:
    The extension footings have been insulated vertically to about 2m and will eventually get a horizontal "wing" to about 2m.
    The floor slab of the extension is not insulated immediately below floor.
    Instead insulation has been laminated with reclaimed brick and soil so as to force a 6m path from a heat delivery coil set about 1.5m deep under the centre of the new slab.
    In theory ( :bigsmile: ) it will take 6 months or so for the heat to reach the interior floor surface.

    The roof collector is Alu-pex pipes run along metal roofing battens under 25sqm of single lapped slate.
    We're not expecting to achieve more than 40 degrees from this ... using it as a pre-heater for a 9kw electric boiler set up right next to the tank
    This should also leave us some flexibility for using the existing 3kw immersion socket to fit a heating coil from any other collectors we eventually get round to making.
    Our priority for the time being is AGS UFH but if temperatures off the roof exceed expectations we would shift the controls to allow more draw off to the DHW.

    Don't know if this is of interest or any help but "better out than in"!
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaDon't know if this is of interest or any help but "better out than in"!

    I feel the same way; it took me quite a while to decide to post this discussion. But in the end i thought who better to tell me I’m barking up the wrong tree? Than the egg heads of GBF

    Really interested in your project and your ideas "a similar horse different jockey" having just started our project and at this stage of excavations we may have to re-think our original plan- as we have hit very hard ground/rock earlier than expected:cry: so down stands of insulation may be reduced or even changed to a wing of insulation and i am racking my brain to see how to get the AGS coil under the slab with such little depth available? Any ideas?

    As our space heating is not our main cause for concern with the AGS and is just a dump for excess heat from ST when our DHW has recharged we could look at over-sized drain down system, certainly sounds cheaper and easier- but there’s something niggling about developing an idea and then abandoning it at the first hurdle.
    Maybe i could hire a bigger breaker and start pecking through the rock:devil:
  4.  
    Maybe there is an opportunity to have a vertical borehole and dump your excess solar into in the summer and retrieve it with a ground source heat pump in the winter?
  5.  
    Posted By: an02ew
    Posted By: SteamyTeaDon't know if this is of interest or any help but "better out than in"!

    I feel the same way; it took me quite a while to decide to post this discussion. But in the end i thought who better to tell me I’m barking up the wrong tree? Than the egg heads of GBF

    Really interested in your project and your ideas "a similar horse different jockey" having just started our project and at this stage of excavations we may have to re-think our original plan- as we have hit very hard ground/rock earlier than expected:cry:" alt=":cry:" src="http:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/cry.gif" >so down stands of insulation may be reduced or even changed to a wing of insulation and i am racking my brain to see how to get the AGS coil under the slab with such little depth available? Any ideas?

    As our space heating is not our main cause for concern with the AGS and is just a dump for excess heat from ST when our DHW has recharged we could look at over-sized drain down system, certainly sounds cheaper and easier- but there’s something niggling about developing an idea and then abandoning it at the first hurdle.
    Maybe i could hire a bigger breaker and start pecking through the rock:devil:" alt=":devil:" src="http:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/devil.gif" >


    If you want a cheap shallow dump that allows heat re-enters the house after a six month delay then build a maze for the heat to travel along...I may have posted this below a while back...
      Solar interseasonal dump 001.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: an02ewa dump for excess heat from ST
    i don't think you shd take that personally, SteamyTea
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomi don't think you shd take that personally, SteamyTea

    certainly not and no offence ment. i was just trying to get opinion on the pros and cons of oversizing ST panels and somwhere to rid the excess
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012 edited
     
    No no, it was just my little joke - pretending I thought ST (solar termal) meant SteamyTea. OK, it's weak.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012 edited
     
    "If you want a cheap shallow dump that allows heat re-enters the house after a six month delay then build a maze for the heat to travel along...I may have posted this below a while back..."

    Hi Jeff - I don't really want to get back into all this, but feel I ought to say that from my simulations a while ago I concluded that arrangements such as you show are not likely to work to any worthwhile extent. The heat flows will not I think be so obliging as you may have been led to suppose. It's a pity.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomNo no, it was just my little joke

    Catches me out all the time :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeMay 16th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: mike7</cite>"If you want a cheap shallow dump that allows heat re-enters the house after a six month delay then build a maze for the heat to travel along...I may have posted this below a while back..."

    Hi Jeff - I don't really want to get back into all this, but feel I ought to say that from my simulations a while ago I concluded that arrangements such as you show are not likely to work to any worthwhile extent. The heat flows will not I think be so obliging as you may have been led to suppose. It's a pity.</blockquote>

    This is what we had to do for similar reasons (Our delivery coil is more compact than suggested by this particular diagram though) ... When we finally comission it and monitor progress we'll post on the forum.
    Our stats are roughly:
    Coil Depth 1.2 to 2.0 metres
    Distance to perimeter of insulated footings 3 to 6 metres
    Long path formed by laminating reclaimed bricks and reclaimed 100mm Isocyanate board
    Loop pipe approx 145 metres of Alu-Pex UFH pipe running under metal battens of approx 45 square metres of single-lapped slate. (1/3 SW 2/3 SE)

    "Worthwhile" might prove to be subjective of course.
    Our set up costs are very low, leaving us more room for "payback" in that sense,
    and we're playing the long game of low increments with lower temperatures coming off the roof than from a glass-fronted panel.

    Is there a thread on here somewhere with the Jeff/Mike7 conversation in it then?
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeMay 16th 2012
     
    PS ... from what I v'e heard both here and on the Navitron forum a drain down system has its own problems with water/air mixing, and wear & tear on components ... Anyone else more knowledgeable care to expand?

    ... and how did the end of my first post end up as
    "posted by steamytea" ...?
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press