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  1.  
    We are about to build our 'mass walls' in my low impact low energy house. They are located in areas of high incident solar radiation in an otherwise lightweight house; these were planned to be studwork with clay / cob block infill, clay or gypsum plastered over.

    Any thoughts for that outer finish to keep it simple, cheap, deal with the differing substrate and best allow heat transfer and storage.

    (need an idea about thickness ASAP as am setting out studwork today... and one wall runs into a window reveal....)

    J.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2012
     
    Posted By: James Nortonneed an idea about thickness ASAP

    When I looked into this a few years back, I seem to remember that you need a 30:1 ratio by mass.
    So work out the mass of air you want to thermally stabilise, including leakage/ventilation. Multiply by 30 and that should give you the mass of the thermal mass.

    I have no real idea if it will help as I only did a scale model, and life does not scale well, but be interesting to see what you end up with and if it helps any. You putting any temp loggers in the mix to be dig out later?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2012
     
    The more the merrier and the longer and better it will work so long as it is inside the thermal envelope.

    any materials will do, preferably not insulation. probably you will be constrained more by how much space you don't want to loose

    I have seen people use oil drums full of water -- they are best at storing heat but I would be scares of them leaking

    build the wall out of water!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2012
     
    Inside the thermal envelope is the only place for passive thermal mass.

    Not convinced about water walls yet, the SHC is good, the price is good, but have a nagging doubt about something I just can't put my finger on at the moment.
  2.  
    Ooh... sorry, in terms of thickness it was only really the finish that I was on about, walls will be 50x100 studs with 100 block infill...

    J
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2012
     
    sand and lime or sand cement base-coat with finishing coat, maintain good thermal contact between core and top layers.
  3.  
    ...but some of it will be on timber and some on clay/cob...

    J
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2012
     
    Plaster onto EML or wood laths with no air gaps then?
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2012
     
    Clay plaster? e.g.http://www.clay-works.com/blog/why-use-clay-plaster/ seem to know something about application to various surfaces - though not quite clear from my quick look at their website I'm guessing it would have a natural affinity for the clay/cob and stick well to the wood with a few almost-in nails to key it in.
  4.  
    ...now taking it a bit further, one of these walls in in a nice location in the living area where the sumptuous clay plastery-ness would be well worth the effort and its a bit smaller too so need to work well... ...where as another one is in a bedroom, is much larger and frankly not worth the effort so am thinking of a earth wall lite solution, say 6mm PB on bed of plasterboard adhesive then a skim coat...?

    Any thoughts...?

    J
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: RobinBstick well to the wood with a few almost-in nails to key it in

    I think it's generally better to put hessian or glassfibre mesh over the front of the timber and 300 mm (or a foot in old money) either side.

    Edit: and I forgot to mention reed matting as an alternative and also that some people recommend a slip layer (e.g. polythene) between the timber and the plaster.

    Posted By: James Nortonam thinking of a earth wall lite solution, say 6mm PB on bed of plasterboard adhesive then a skim coat

    I think listing the full build-up would make it clear what you're thinking of. Layers of drywall (and associated airgaps) between the thermal mass and the room aren't going to do much for the performance?
  5.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: James Norton</cite>...now taking it a bit further, one of these walls in in a nice location in the living area where the sumptuous clay plastery-ness would be well worth the effort and its a bit smaller too so need to work well... ...where as another one is in a bedroom, is much larger and frankly not worth the effort so am thinking of a earth wall lite solution, say 6mm PB on bed of plasterboard adhesive then a skim coat...?

    Any thoughts...?

    J</blockquote>

    One idea, take unfired clay bricks and build a wall by dipping them in water and laying them as you would brickwork, without the mortar. as a finish, the wall can be plastered or finished with a damp cloth wiped over the surface, which will blend the bricks into one surface.

    For the bricks and stud work, you could think about leaving the timber exposed and plastering up to the timber.
    James, your design sound very similair to what I am planning for my house. Where I will use a timber frame stud work with clay block infill, I will use reclaimed oak beams, oiled and leave them exposed.

    If you do go over any wood, the key is to use 2 coats, a base and finish coat. put some nails in the wood, plaster over with a base coat, fill any large cracks that develope and then plaster over with a thin finish coat.
  6.  
    For the clay plaster, remeber that you can add things to teh finish coat. Quartz or graines of crushed mother of pearl shells look nice on a wall that will have down lighting near them.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2012
     
    Posted By: bot de pailleOne idea, take unfired clay bricks and build a wall by dipping them in water and laying them as you would brickwork, without the mortar. as a finish, the wall can be plastered or finished with a damp cloth wiped over the surface, which will blend the bricks into one surface.

    I like those ideas! Thanks, BdP :bigsmile:
    PS Have you tested them - do they really work as well as I would imagine?

    Posted By: bot de pailleFor the bricks and stud work, you could think about leaving the timber exposed and plastering up to the timber.
    James, your design sound very similair to what I am planning for my house. Where I will use a timber frame stud work with clay block infill, I will use reclaimed oak beams, oiled and leave them exposed.

    You're absolutely guaranteed cracks at the junction, though. So if thinking about airtightness, you'd need a membrane behind the timber.

    Posted By: bot de pailleFor the clay plaster, remeber that you can add things to teh finish coat. Quartz or graines of crushed mother of pearl shells look nice on a wall that will have down lighting near them.

    Yup, I'm planning on using that trick. I note from elsewhere that adding granite chips is a great way to increase the exhalation rate of radioactive thoron gas from the plaster, so perhaps they wouldn't be such a good idea :devil:
  7.  
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: James Nortonam thinking of a earth wall lite solution, say 6mm PB on bed of plasterboard adhesive then a skim coat

    I think listing the full build-up would make it clear what you're thinking of. Layers of drywall (and associated airgaps) between the thermal mass and the room aren't going to do much for the performance?


    Basically Dave, its a stud wall with clay/cob block infill, not much else to say.

    The thing for the bigger wall is that I can't really justify anything too out of the ordinary/time consuming/expensive for the finish; ie 'was thinking some sort of board solution, as the walls bigger 'could probably get away with a bit lower performance. Also I may not block infill right to the top/back of the wall so again some sort of board and skim would work well, I figure its just what sort of board and how to reduce any gap...

    J
  8.  
    This article on the effect of thermal mass on space heating may be of interest to you James.

    http://www.constructireland.ie/Articles/Renewable-Energy/The-effect-of-thermal-mass-on-space-heating.html
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 3rd 2012
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconThis article on the effect of thermal mass on space heating may be of interest to you James.

    Just got around to reading it.
    If I read it right, not much difference between low and medium thermal mass, but high thermal mass is the worse.
  9.  
    In my situation the idea is to just knock the edge of the big extremes of temp, particularly in respect of overheating

    J
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 3rd 2012 edited
     
    I think the occasional overheating is technically a harder problem to solve than stabilising (within bounds) the normal range.
    Do you know when you get an overheating problem and do you have any data to work with.
    So say it is a problem between 4 and 7 in the afternoon/evening, what was the weather like the previous 4 hours. Or is it a case of you get home from work and find the house hot. Two different solutions to those problems.
  10.  
    Posted By: SteamyTea
    Posted By: Chris P BaconThis article on the effect of thermal mass on space heating may be of interest to you James.

    Just got around to reading it.
    If I read it right, not much difference between low and medium thermal mass, but high thermal mass is the worse.


    Yes, it seems that on balance medium thermal mass is probably best for most situations, giving you the benefit of some smoothing without any possible negative effects on the heating load.

    I assume James you are aiming at a medium thermal mass solution and the article gives added confirmation that that is the correct approach.

    I was considering whether to add some form of thermal mass to my internal stub walls such as filling with hempcrete or such but I think my floor slab will probably be enough.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 3rd 2012
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaOr is it a case of you get home from work and find the house hot. Two different solutions to those problems.

    A fast beer followed by a slow beer?
  11.  
    ...decision time approaches for 'mass walls light' (bad choice of walls but 'mass walls cheap' is perhaps a bit unpalatable, true, but unpalatable :wink: )

    ...further to the above the unfired blocks are not available in the quantities (small) I need, even despite my attempts at charm and talk of high profile demonstration etc, so am looking at possibly cob blocks or to be honest ordinary concrete blocks...

    as above for the mass wall in the less prominent location so far I have:

    a. win lottery, put family up in 5 star hotel for 6 months then studwork, clay plaster on hemp.
    b. 5 number win, studwork with concrete block infill, hessian over studs, 2 coat gypsum base coat plaster and skim
    c. partial blockwork in studs with 6mm board on plasterboard adhesive to blocks and studs
    d. blockwork wall with head restraint and acoustic ties to studwork party wall beyond
    - i. fair faced and painted
    - ii. single base coat and skim

    any thoughts...?


    J
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2012
     
    Decisions decisions.....

    I think my thought process would be: - unlikely to win lottery, so there is a compromise on what you really, really want .....so for less prominent location go for 'most thermal mass/cheapest option'. You could do d.iii fair faced only

    Then have more money to spend on the prominent wall.
  12.  
    i dont see why you need to win the lottery to do this work, unless you are buying the clay plaster in sacks from a eco building supplier. and why 6 months of work? a week or 2 at most.

    what about using sand? build a stud wall, ply wood finish, pour sand into the stud wall cavity.

    are the supports for these mass walls strong enough?
  13.  
    Bot,

    An exaggeration as I'm sure you appreciate but its a relative cost thing toward the near end of a long and impoverishing journey... and really cant justify more than a couple of hundred quid or so and a couple of days; don;t forget this is for a wall only seen by my teenage son, I have one or two more visible ones where I'm devoting more time to...

    Charlotte,

    Good plan. Just have to convince the design committee and end user representative group...

    J
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2012
     
    Teenage son helps build block wall and gets to finish it himself (within reason)?!
  14.  
    Teenage son lifts a finger...?! We're back on lottery territory there!

    'Design Review Committee' has just taken it out of the end user groups hands, and has poured scorn on blocks you can see...(I suspect that this aversion is one of those things that all 'normal' people have...) however not to give up easily I am on the hunt for attractive self finished blocks that are not demonstratively environmentally disastrous and 'normal' people would like...

    J


    PS any ideas...?
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2012
     
    lego?
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2012
     
    James, maybe failing to understand the issue, but could you line with Fermacell board glued joints sanded and painted or they do a fine surface filler/finish. This would be a self fitted solution and I have had reasonable results with just a sanded joints and painted Fermacell.
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeNov 27th 2012
     
    I'm thinking of using exposed concrete/cob block on my interior walls re thermal mass as I like the 'look' of them but appreciate end user and design review committee not keen.

    As one last hurrah, google 'concrete block interior design' select images that may persuade (there is a couple of nice ones - not too brutal), with the caveat that if they really don't like it you can plaster over later - by the time that happens(!) you maybe able to afford the clay plaster.
   
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