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Products: Best black stain for external timber?

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    Hi all ... about to start testing for "best look" on a black/near black finish for a timber clad solar wall section.
    What i won't be able to tell though is how different methods stand up to harsh weather and movement in the wood.
    This page is representative of the range on offer ...
    http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/Coatings/External_Woodstains_and_Varnishes/

    All observations/experiences welcome :bigsmile:
  2.  
    ... and a page like this opens the whole thing up a bit ...

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg0915363329694.html
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    Is the wall already "in situ" ?
    What wood is it?, or will be.
    Is the wall subject to harsh weather, I assume it's South facing?
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    Thanks Mike - I was about to trawl through to find a supplier for my external stain and the first link looks excellent!

    Regards, Jonathan
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    Just about to think about just the same but for all the soffits and fascias which I need to do before they go up. Previous experience suggests Sadolins (and lots of coats). Have used Butinox (brown) more recently and that seemed to last pretty well. Thing about sadolins (if you use the right one) is that it does actually stain the wood, not just sit on top.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012 edited
     
  7.  
    I treated all my wooden soffit and fascia with raw linseed oil first and then finished with black impregnated linseed oil, I can't say how long it will last but it is said to have a good life. Some I did in-situ and some was painted on the ground before fitting. It was very impressive to see the puddling of rain on boards that were laying flat after being painted. It's the first time I have used linseed oil paint but I have to say that now I am a total convert.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    I was planning on using Sadolins Superdec opaque stain - we want to give it a cream finish to match our neighbouring houses. Hopefully we can afford thermowood or similar T&G so we may get away without a primer, but I've priced it so may still use it a base coat on both sides, followed by one coat on the exterior face and then a third coat after fixing. Not cheap, but essential for future low maintenance.
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    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    or charring? Lots of examples if googles
    e.g.
    http://www.homedesignfind.com/green/an-ancient-fire-resistant-wood-finish-that-is-green-and-very-elegant/
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    I have heard good things about Sadolins products, although not used them myself.

    What sort of profile is the timber cladding going to be? You mentioned it is a solar wall, what does this mean specifically?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2012
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconI treated all my wooden soffit and fascia with raw linseed oil first and then finished with black impregnated linseed oil
    Interesting. Where did you source it from?
  13.  
    Posted By: borpin
    Posted By: Chris P BaconI treated all my wooden soffit and fascia with raw linseed oil first and then finished with black impregnated linseed oil
    Interesting. Where did you source it from?


    I bought it directly from the Allbäck Linseed oil factory which is about 15 miles away from me, in the UK their importer is Holkham Linseed Paints in Norfolk.

    http://www.linoljeprodukter.se/eng/index.php

    www.holkhamlinseedpaints.co.uk
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeSep 6th 2012
     
    We have used black Sadolin on our on our fascia boards. It had 2/3 coats and now 4 years on looks as good as the day we did it, I should add we live up on Dartmoor so it has seen plenty of weather. The product soaked in very well and has left a matt surface but more coats would probably have produced a bit more gloss.
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    Thank you all! Some extremely useful links as well ...
    I'd begun to think in the mean time about charring, so that's where the research is going to start.
    The cladding is not in place yet so could be "treated" this way
    It's an unknown timber having been scavenged from a finished Travelodge build ... They've used some god-awful smeary stain effort on it.

    Posted By: TimberWhat sort of profile is the timber cladding going to be? You mentioned it is a solar wall, what does this mean specifically?


    I might be able to sort a pic at some point for the experts on here to identify it.
    The profile is what I would describe as long-tongue and short-groove ... presumably to allow for movement and not to be fitted too tight.
    It's a "solar" wall in so far as, having run pipes under the roof slates to collect heat for AGS, I thought it would be interesting to see what contribution a vertical SW facing version would make, so I've run a separate loop behind where the cladding will be going.
    (Pic shows the wall before the pipes went on.)
      CIMG1300.JPG
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    Interesting.

    As for the profile, I think that is just called tougne and groove. Shiplap does not have the back side to the groove if that makes sense.

    Charring is a good thought, helps improve durability, but there is not much information about achieving it on site using home-brew methods.
    • CommentAuthorCav8andrew
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    If you goggle shou-sugi-ban you should come up with examples of charred timber cladding, a traditional Japanese method of preserving timber, traditionally Cedar, from rot, insects and theoretically fire. A site called pursuing wabi has a guide to the process if diying, but it looks pretty time consuming. There was a UK importer of charred timber from Japan but cost was high and I am unable to find the site at present.
    Goggling charred timber cladding japan brings up lots of interesting images.
    Personally I think it's a beautiful finish but am trying to work out how to reasonably achieve it, time and cost wise.
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: Timber
    As for the profile, I think that is just called tougne and groove. Shiplap does not have the back side to the groove if that makes sense.

    There are lots of diagrams of profiles on the web if that's easier than posting a picture: http://www.google.co.uk/images?q=timber+cladding+profiles

    Charring is a good thought, helps improve durability, but there is not much information about achieving it on site using home-brew methods.

    The illustrated instructions was one reason I posted this link
    http://pursuingwabi.com/2007/11/05/shou-sugi-ban/ :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    Spent the weekend pre staining facia board before it goes up. 2 coats of Sadolins Classic Ebony on both sides looks good. Will need two more on the exposed face but happy with that. I feel it really soaks in.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2012
     
    I used Sadolin wood stain and Ronseal ones, the Sadolin lasted twice as long (about 4 years on the north east side, the south west side seems to last longer, and that gets all the weather.

    We used to char the pine saunas, just used a blow torch and away we went, light sanding after with 600 grit. Was a bit tedious but some customers liked the finish.
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2012
     
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: Timber
    As for the profile, I think that is just called tougne and groove. Shiplap does not have the back side to the groove if that makes sense.

    There are lots of diagrams of profiles on the web if that's easier than posting a picture: http://www.google.co.uk/images?q=timber+cladding+profiles

    Charring is a good thought, helps improve durability, but there is not much information about achieving it on site using home-brew methods.

    The illustrated instructions was one reason I posted this link
    http://pursuingwabi.com/2007/11/05/shou-sugi-ban/:bigsmile:" alt=":bigsmile:" src="http:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" >


    Used the above images link ... it's the one second from right, rerferred to as "Shiplap" ... even though I "agree" with DJH that this is probably an incorrect label.
      so called shiplap.jpg
    • CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2012 edited
     
    Cav8andrew wrote: "If you goggle shou-sugi-ban you should come up with examples of charred timber cladding, a traditional Japanese method of preserving timber, traditionally Cedar, from rot, insects and theoretically fire. A site called pursuing wabi has a guide to the process if diying, but it looks pretty time consuming. There was a UK importer of charred timber from Japan but cost was high and I am unable to find the site at present.

    "Goggling charred timber cladding japan brings up lots of interesting images.
    Personally I think it's a beautiful finish but am trying to work out how to reasonably achieve it, time and cost wise."


    I was just looking at a couple of videos showing the traditional way of doing the charring:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xoBjpXOlyM
    http://vimeo.com/45207382

    What struck me was that the boards are only charred on the outside. I can see how that might possibly help with UV and rain protection but how does it stop insects or extend the life of the cladding, which are both claims I have seen? Is the charring process actually changing the bulk properties of the wood as well? Does anybody know any more?

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