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  1.  
    As an alternative to a "normal" ASHP, I am considering to use a 300litre Ecocent type hot water tank with integrated air source heat pump to provide year round DHW and a total 3500kWhrs of energy to our UFH spread over Nov, Dec, Jan & Feb.

    As we also have a balanced MHRV so taking the air supply from within the house is not possible.

    So what I am proposing is to pre-heat the air supply to the Ecocent using a home made solar air panel similar in design to those produced by Solar Venti.

    I have space to install approx. 4.5m² of solar air panel vertically on a south east facing wall.

    The reasons for pre-heating are two-fold, one to improve the COP and secondly to eliminate costly de-frost cycles.

    Ecocent says that their unit needs an air supply of 450m³/h.

    SolarVenti say that a 3m² panel raises the incoming air temp. of 150m³/h by between 20C to 40C.

    The idea would be to have a simple control system which would allow the heat pump to run only if the incoming air temperature is above say 10C.

    Ecocent say that the unit can produce hot water at a rate of 44 litres per hour with incoming air at 10C and 84 litres per hour at 35C which is approx. the temperature range I would expect it to operate within. Apart from during freezing foggy weather I would hope that HP can run long enough each day to keep us in hot water without resorting to an immersion.

    The reasons for choosing such as system are, one, cost £2,500-£3,000 installed versus £8,500 for a Ecodan ASHP and two, the overall running cost should be lower because of the pre-heating.

    The question is whether this can work effectively in practice? I need to make a decision pretty soon or it will be too late to integrate the required ductwork into the house.

    The main problem as I see it is that if it doesn't work I will have no real alternative other than to use an immersion for hot water production and it will have been a pretty expensive mistake.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012 edited
     
    South east facing is likely to do a lot worse than south facing in the middle of the winter, I think; at 56°, or so, from the equator the sun is not up for long and when it is it's pretty much south when it'll be at a bit of an oblique angle whatever time of day. On days when the hour's sunshine happens to be a bit after solar noon it'll be at an even steeper angle.

    My intuition, therefore, would be that this will make a good contribution to your year-round DHW but not much to the winter UFH.

    On the solar warm air collector I built to be (regrettably) east facing at a slightly more northern latitude I chose to use corrugated PVC for the front of the collector with the idea that light at an oblique angle would have a better chance of hitting a surface at a steep angle and therefore be less lightly to be reflected. Still, it gave no appreciable warming after October, even on bright days.

    http://edavies.me.uk/2011/12/solar-thermal-end-of-term/

    Doing that panel again I'd have made it vertical, twice as wide, and facing more south even at the cost of sticking out from the building a bit.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    The internal volume of my house is around 270m^3 (I think), less than the 450m^3/hr that the Ecocent processes, so there is more than one complete air change every hour that the pump runs. I don't notice any cold draughts so the incoming air must be warmed to room temperature before it reaches the heat pump.

    However, there is a lot of thermal mass in the house so high energy density compared to the incoming air, and there's lots of surface area so lots of opportunity for heat exchange.

    The conditions for energy transfer in your panel will be very different - much lower energy density (so less stored energy) and much lower surface area for heat exchange.

    Maybe a calculation of the volume of air passing through the panel every second and the energy required to heat that volume from 10C to 20C would give you a feel for the plausibility of the concept.

    My gut feeling is that in winter, when you need it most, the gains will be marginal.

    What are you going to use for space heating in the winter?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: qeiplMaybe a calculation of the volume of air passing through the panel every second and the energy required to heat that volume from 10C to 20C would give you a feel for the plausibility of the concept.

    Heating 450 m³/h of air (volumetric heat capacity ~= 1.3 kJ/(m³·K)) through 10 °C would require a power input of 450 * 1300 * 10 / 3600 = 1625 W. Spread over a 4.5 m² panel that'd be 361 W/m². A tad optimistic for relatively high-latitude winter sunshine, particularly at an oblique angle, but not completely out of the ball park. Running the airflow quite a bit slower or doubling the collector size might work.

    Posted By: Chris P BaconSolarVenti say that a 3m² panel raises the incoming air temp. of 150m³/h by between 20C to 40C.

    Similarly, assuming 30 °C is between 20 and 40: 150 * 1300 * 30 / 3600 / 3 = 541 W/m². Quite reasonable for summer sun seems a bit much to me with the sun only 11° above the horizon.
  2.  
    Thanks Ed good to get practical feedback, most of the info available online about solar air panels is from the US and even though many mention having to clear snow drifts from in front of their panels in winter it is easy to forget that almost all are at latitudes much much further south than us.

    I was working in the house off and on today and the shaft of sun coming in the window beside where I would site the panel was gone by 3pm, I can imagine that in another 3 months when it is mid-winter that there will not be much direct sun after 1 pm at the very most. As the house only went up in May I have no reference as to how much sun will actually land on that spot.

    I did re-measure the space available and I can actually fit 6.5m² of panel in the space available so that should help the potential temperature uplift of the air passing through it.

    The ultimate aim is to install about 25m² of PV panels just below the ridge of the house and mount them on a system so that I can duct the heat off the back of the panels to the Ecocent in winter and direct to an air to water heat exchanger for DHW in the summer. There is a proprietary system produced by a German company which can do just that, so that should work.

    The problem is that I won't know if I can afford the PV panels until after I finish the rest of the build, but at least the good news is that the Government here have just said that they are extending the grants available for domestic PV until 2016 which covers up to 45% of the installation costs.

    qeipl, the ufh will be the sole method of heating the house, and the only heat source will be a heat pump of some description.
  3.  
    Ed thanks for those calculations.
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconThanks Ed good to get practical feedback, most of the info available online about solar air panels is from the US and even though many mention having to clear snow drifts from in front of their panels in winter it is easy to forget that almost all are at latitudes much much further south than us.

    "The Complete Handbook of Solar Air Heating Systems" (Kornher & Zaugg, 1984) has a map (adapted from a 1974 publication ) dividing the US into 6 zones, numbered roughly south to north (the low number tend to bulge N in regions away from the coasts & Great Lakes). In the discussion of economics zones 5 & 6 are both noted as "...you need to take a hard look at the economics involved.".[1]

    So the area they consider favourable for straight use of solar air stops even before the 49th parallel.

    However, you're looking at a more subtle use, and their "economics" (& climate) are based on figures that are quite old now, so maybe things will work out different now.

    [1] If the quote seems familiar, then yes I have used it before (http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=9025&page=2).
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: Chris P Bacon
    qeipl, the ufh will be the sole method of heating the house, and the only heat source will be a heat pump of some description.


    The Ecocent will struggle to do much UFH in mid winter, regardless of how much sun shines on your air warming panels.
    When the sun doesn't shine it won't manage to keep you warm.

    If gas isn't available and you don't want the faff of a solid fuel boiler in a shed then I'd recommend an electric boiler fitted in-line with the UFH circuit. Cheap to install, expensive to run, but if your house is insulated/sealed/MVHR'd to the max then the winter hole shouldn't be too deep a one to fill with expensive electricity. The boiler won't come on very often but when you need it, you'll need it.

    I'd forget about the warm air panel and make sure you have enough cash for the PV. It'll generate enough to ofset the electric boiler.
  4.  
    Thanks for that Skyewright.

    @qeipl what makes you say "The Ecocent will struggle to do much UFH in mid winter"? is that your own experience? I thought you were very happy with it.

    No gas and we are in a village so I have no wish to burn anything.

    The capital savings involved in putting a small 3kW heater in line with the UFH would certainly go towards paying a large chunk of the cost of the PV but it feels wrong to be generating energy on site on the one hand and then being so wasteful of it on the other, when using a heat pump would reduce electricity use for space heating by about two thirds.

    Is there a good argument for spending the money on PV rather than a heat pump?
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    I'm very happy with the Ecocent. It's great for DHW and a modest amount of UFH.
    It's cheap to install (mine was £1,600) and I believe the new model has a stainless steel cylinder, so no anode to change. Otherwise there is little or no maintenance.

    Even when drawing its air from outside it uses solar energy from a wider range of conditions than is possible with ST but when solar energy is scarce and heat loss from the house is high (mid winter, close to zero air temp) it struggles to process enough air to get enough energy to keep me warm.

    I meant that you should go for the Ecocent and the electic UFH boiler. Definitely not all straight electric.

    The smallest in-line electric boiler that I could find was 6kw and cost c.£400. Easy to install, takes up almost no space, and can be adjusted to kick in to assist rather than pre-empt the heat pump.
    Mine has hardly ever been used because I tend to light the boiler, but it's good to know it's there.

    Unless you're building a huge palace your 25kW of PV will go a long way to generating what you use in a year.
    I have a wee hydro that produces about half of the electricity that I consume and will install PV to do the other half when the price of panels and the contents of my piggy bank converge.

    A heat pump, electric boiler, and grid-tied PV is a good combination if your house is proper low energy.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: qeiplUnless you're building a huge palace your 25kW of PV...

    Crispy said 25 m², so around 4 kW.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: qeiplUnless you're building a huge palace your 25kW of PV...

    Crispy said 25 m², so around 4 kW.


    Oops. Slip of the units. Thanks for the correction.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 20th 2012
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconIs there a good argument for spending the money on PV rather than a heat pump?
    Probably in the UK with the old FIT rate, harder to justify now though (and you loose your capital on day one of the installation).

    I think Ed did some calcs that showed heating water with PV can sometimes be better than with ST. Caused a bit of a controversy at the time but made sense to me.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2012
     
    Posted By: Chris P Bacon
    Is there a good argument for spending the money on PV rather than a heat pump?


    The problem with PV and ST is that they operate in a relatively narrow range of conditions - they only capture solar energy when the sun is shining on them.

    An ASHP captures solar energy day and night, rain, hail or shine, albeit by much less efficient means.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2012
     
    Posted By: qeiplalbeit by much less efficient means.

    This is part of the problem in comparing them. All a matter of what you measure and what you want to show.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 21st 2012
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea: “I think Ed did some calcs that showed heating water with PV can sometimes be better than with ST. Caused a bit of a controversy at the time but made sense to me.”

    'Twas here: http://edavies.me.uk/2012/01/pv-et-flat/

    Discussion: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=8396

    More: http://edavies.me.uk/2012/01/solar-per-area/

    Still haven't done the PV + ST + HP (i.e., using PV to power a heat pump to boost the output of solar thermal panels) calculations. There are a lot of variables involved but a few simplifying assumptions should make a useful calculator possible. Unfortunately, I don't think a nice neat graph can summarise the results tidily.
  5.  
    I have found that my electricity supplier E.on have a calculator on their website to show what you will earn from a PV install.

    I haven't had a chance to really pay around with it yet but on a first look it seems that the return on investment is about 50/50 between 10kWp of PV versus a Mitsu Ecodan ASHP.

    That is assuming that I would get the grant for the PV install.

    I need to play around with it a lot more and try different combinations for hitting our estimated requirements for space heat, DHW and general domestic electricity use.

    One possibility is to go with PV, an air to air heat pump and immersion for DHW.

    Should keep me busy with a few tins of beer this evening.
  6.  
    I spent a few hours last night assembling figures from the electricity bills for our current house together with the estimates from the PHPP for the new house.

    If we are to use the 5kW Ecodan ASHP for space heating and DHW production year round I estimate that our total electricity use including general domestic use & HRV will be between 5,000kWhr and 6,000kWhr.

    The feedback from Ed, qeipl and Skyewright has pretty well put me off the notion of using the Ecocent with solar air preheat although I would still like to experiment with a solar air heater in the future.

    Looking at the issue of installing PV, the payment system for PV is completely different here in Sweden compared to the UK.

    Not sure how the electricity price is broken down in the UK but it might help to explain how we pay here first, here we pay a standing charge for the meter which varies according to the size of the fuse. All houses have a 3 phase supply here and the standing charge for a 20A fuse is approx. £365 a year and a 25A fuse is £475. There is also an account charge of £36 a year.

    We then pay an electricity supplier either a floating or a fixed price per kWhr in July the floating price was 2.27pence per unit (the lowest I have ever seen it) and in August it was 2.86p per unit. By comparison in February it was 5.2p a unit.

    On top of that there is an energy tax of 2.7p per kWhr.

    Then there is a delivery charge of about 1.5p per kWhr.

    And 25% VAT on top of all that.

    As a micro producer you get paid a fraction below the Nord pool spot price so this July when PV production would be near it's highest point in the year you would only be getting a fraction over 1p per kWhr fed to the grid.

    You also get paid a carbon credit of about 2p per kWhr for all production. Obviously the most benefit is displacing electricity you would normally purchase from the grid as you are saving the unit cost, delivery charge, energy tax and VAT on that purchase.

    Another killer is that if you produce more electricity than you consume over the entire year you have to pay a standing charge of £175 a year to feed electricity into the grid. This charge is waived for producers who consume more than they produce.

    I have estimated that if I consume and produce 5000kWhrs a year I reckon the absolute best case scenario is that I would save about £350 a year so even with a grant available of up to 45% of the installation costs the return on investment is not good and could be completely wiped out by on-going maintenance costs.

    I know the above info is not of benefit to anyone but thought some might be interested to see how the situation here in Sweden compares to the UK.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2012 edited
     
    EU Energy Portal has Sweden as 0.2098 Euro for up to 3.5MWh/year and 0.1821 for 7.5MWH/year.
    The UK is 0.1419 and 0.1265.

    Is the fuse charge per phase or for all three fuses?
    I like the 2.7p Energy Tax and the 1.5p Delivery charge. Seems your billing/charging structure is much more transparent than ours, or did that take a lot of digging about to get the info.
    Personally I like the idea of a floating charge, but out of interest what is the fixed charge?

    So your feed in payment is Nord Pool Price + 2p and possibly a standing charge. Is is calculated yearly or monthly?

    This may explain why you don't get as much payment for your home grown.
    Data from http://www.iea.org/stats/index.asp
      Comparision between Sweden and UK.jpg
  7.  
    @ST The normal electricity bill is every two months and PV payments are made every 3 months.

    The fuse charge is the total for all 3 phases.

    I'm not sure what the fixed price is at the moment it varies all the time. You can fix for 1, 2 or 3 years in advance or you can fix just for the Winter and have the floating price during the Summer.

    There was no digging required for the breakdown of the bill it is shown as a pie chart on the reverse of the bill together with a bar chart of monthly consumption for the last 12 months.

    I'm not sure what the incentives are but there has been a lot of investment in commercial wind here in the last 10 years or so. But as you point out with the huge amount of Hydro in the mix here already there is no need to incentivise domestic scale production to the scale that has happened in Germany and the UK.

    I have just come across a Government press release from last week which mentions the introduction of nett charging for micro producers, it doesn't specify over what time period the netting would occur, daily, monthly, quarterly or yearly. If it is any of the longer time periods it will significantly improve the return on investment, I will have to keep my ear to the ground on that one.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2012
     
    Sweden has the Germans to thank for their low carbon intensity energy policy (as do the French) because they had their coal supplies severed during WW2. I did some work with a very nice Swedish lady who told me that a lot of the lovely lakes in Sweden were pretty new and not in the least bit natural. Do you have the same problems with NIMBYs and BANANAs as we do?
    Is there a policy to renew the Nuclear with Biofuel and Waste do you know?
    Seems to me that Sweden has a sensible charging policy at the domestic level but would confuse the general population over here.
  8.  
    I'm only living here a little over 2 years so can't speak with any great authority, but the Swedes are generally very good at having a public debate on these things and reaching a consensus which pretty much everyone will accept.

    In 2005 the Government reversed the previous policy (decided in a 1980 referendum) of phasing out Nuclear. The current policy is to stick with nuclear and replace the current plants when required.

    There are various biofuel and waste to energy projects, Malmö's food waste goes to biogas production and other waste that can't be recycled is incinerated for electricity production and district heating, all the ash is reused in various products so that none goes to landfill.

    There is also a pilot plant just down the road from me producing biogas from seaweed.

    But they know that it is a huge ask to replace the huge amount of nuclear here with renewables but are chipping away at it.

    The main policy is to reduce consumption, in the current building regs for example a 130m2 house is only allowed to install a maximum of 4.5kW of electrical consumption for all space heating and DHW, if you have a 3kW immersion for DHW it doesn't leave you with much for space heating! :bigsmile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconThere is also a pilot plant just down the road from me producing biogas from seaweed.

    That sounds interesting, you have a link to it.

    4.5 kW run for 24 hours is 108 kWh, about what I use in 4 days in the winter here.
  9.  
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