Green Building Forum - All Discussions Feed

Taking windows to the next level

2012-02-04T16:05:10+00:00

Hi all, me again!

Some of you will remember that my plan for windows is a 28mm 3G Krypton filled unit (Ug 0.6-0.7) fitted in a modified sash frame set out into the EWI layer. In this scenario the main problem is the frame. I will have to create a large rebate to fit the units which would require clever use of a router and some skill. I have thought of another way and wonder what you guys think.
Basically I will split the frames (along the plane of the glass) and insert a 10mm insulating board of some type into the middle before sticking them back together with glue. This will make the frames deeper and thus make the rebate problem easier (no router required). It will also give a thermal break.

What material would you use as a thermal break and how would you stick them together?

Where can I buy 12mm square lengths of timber?

2012-05-16T07:32:02+01:00

I need to put a 12mm deep trim around my window frame so I can add magnetic strips to it, and then a sheet of perspex for secondary glazing.

Ideally, I need 12mm x 15mm x 6m, but 12mm square will suffice since it's more likely a standard size. Obviously it will come in shorter lengths than that.

Just can't seem to find anywhere that sells it. I've searched for "12mm square wood mouldings / trim".

What would I search for?

Thanks in advance

Treatment for a damp room

2012-05-15T22:16:38+01:00

Some advice would be appreciated.

It's not strictly a Green Building issue, but as there seems to be a god deal of expertise here it would be good to get some second opinions.

So the background.

I rent out a house on a steep slope. Due to the slope the house has a garage and "utility" along the downslope side, under the main floor slab. These spaces were created when the house was built in order to support the house above, so they are essentially "basement" type spaces. They were not built with a damp course or (on the retaining wall side) any damp proofing.

The tenant has (against our advice) been using the "utility" as a study type room (desk, books etc). The room has no windows, a small air brick and one (external door).

After a plumbing leak some years ago we installed a cheap "office" carpet at the tenant's request, his reasoning being to protect the concrete floor of the room which had had some tanking slurry applied (again in an act of good will to the tenant)

Recently there was another leak from the plumbing system (the exact circumstances are murky). Approx 1 bucket or so of water soaked into the carpet (the room is approx 3m x 4m)

The tenant had all his stuff removed (insurance job).

The carpet has been drying out over the last month, not helped by the fact the tenant tends not to open the door.

I was going to pop a dehumidifier in for the next week just to finish off the drying process.

When I was there 1 week ago, the walls and ceiling were fine, with no sign of mould or dampness). The carpet was mainly touch dry although in the corner closes to the leak it would leave a damp mark on your trousers if you knelt down. There were one or two small (about the size of a pea) "furry" things where I assume a crumb of sandwich or other organic matter had moulded over.

In my assessment a vacuum and a few days with the door open would see the place back to "utility" standard. The tenant wants the place upgraded to a full study but that's another tale.

The tenant wants (although he phrases it as "advises") the following work done (lifted from his email)

- The carpet is a vapour barrier. It is also effected by mould and spores. The carpet should be removed, placed in an airtight plastic bag and incinerated, as it is a health hazard. this should occur post swab samples collection.
Prior to any de-humidification they advise taking swab samples from the carpet and walls ceiling etc.

- All walls ceiling and exposed floor should be sprayed with an anti spore solution by means of a spray mechanism. The room then requires to rest whilst the process tales place.

- Once the spores have been killed the door should be opened to fresh air which will allow many air changes per hour. At this stage fans should be introduced for a two to three hour period. with the door open, assisting air changes.

- After this treatment spore samples may be taken and passed on to a laboratory for analysis.

- The next step would be post sample analysis is received to introduce axial fans and dehumidifiers plus a heat source with a closed door. Until the room has a low relative humidity and the walls floor and ceiling test out at an acceptable low relative humidity.

- If you are unable to carry out the above works and tests the appointed contractor appointed by Aviva can do so on my behalf and on charge it to you accordingly.

- Please be aware that the spore samples and analysis must be carried out by an ISO certified company, using appropriately trained operators with accreditation.

- I have been advised to tell you it would be dangerous and a complete violation of HSE regulations for you to do otherwise.

Does that seem a little excessive? To me it does, what does the voice of GBF think?

Filsolar - Solar Thermal

2012-01-03T14:25:45+00:00

I've got two filsolar thermal flat plat style panels approx 2.1msq each fitted in 2005. During the recent install of some solar pv panels on the same roof, the solar installer noticed that both the panels had split .

Luckily I have a letter from the solar installer which referred to a 10 year warranty on those panels, which they are following up on with Filsolar (albeit Filsolar rather slow to respond).

Apparently this is common. Anyone else had problems with Filsolar kit or flat panels?

Thanks,

Mark

MVHR and Natural Ventilation

2012-05-15T13:32:54+01:00

Hi,

I'm doing a refurb of a bungalow and looking to go for new double glazed windows, IWI, 400mm in the loft and some kind of insulating overlay on the floors. In doing all this there is clearly an opportunity to go to town on getting the airtightness right down and retrofitting an MVHR unit (piece of cake to install with it being a bungalow).

So, if I've got good airtightness - lets say we get to about 3 m3/m2.h and I go for MVHR, I'll obviously need to go without trickle vents in my new windows. Could I also go for fewer operable windows to save on costs? How much cooling will the MVHR provide in the hot summer months? Could I strategically place operable windows to permit cross ventilation on the hottest days and get away with leaving some windows as fixed units?

C&F Customers' Group

2012-05-16T22:28:08+01:00

I have started up a dedicated group for C&F customers. Have a look at http://groupspaces.com/CFCustomers

We have started putting up monthly turbine production stats too. Look at the tab at the top right.

The more people that join the more useful the information in the statistics, and the forum, will be.

Excess solar thermal heat ducted to AGS(pick this idea apart pls)

2012-05-05T09:35:46+01:00

Ok, so the plan is to oversize the solar thermal (ST) collectors and use two smaller solar cylinders as opposed to one huge one, the first (DHW) will take priority and reheat quick due to its size and the oversized ST collectors, when heated the second cylinder takes all the excess heat and ducts it away under the house into a AGS. the heat will be ducted in two separate 100m coils of under floor heating pipe rated at about 10 watts per/m so about 2kw each coil held in shape by wiring them to a cylindrical wire cage around 1m diameter and 2m tall, then backfilled with compacted sand and the new insulated floor system over.

The insulated floor slab will not allow the heat to rise up through the floor but deflect it under the very old cottage ( AGS pies placed up tight to cottage walls) which can well do with the all the heat it can get and with more mass than any other part of the build will also store the excess heat.

I realize that i should put more effort into the AGS with down stands of insulation and maybe even a concrete bund but it’s just a dump for the excess summer overheat. The idea is about having a solar DHW system that will quickly recharge summer or winter.

As always all comments good or bad welcome.

How much PV has the UK installed to date?

2012-05-15T12:32:19+01:00

Anyone know? thanks
RobinB

The five most important decisions to take before...

2012-05-15T08:11:02+01:00

If someone is trying to build an eco or energy efficient house, what do you think are the most important decisions he/she can make before the house is built?

loft insulation at front of house

2012-05-14T16:22:50+01:00

I have just finished insulating the second of our two lofts (house built at the turn of last century) and realised that the very front of the loft/house which is very difficult to access between the rafters and is obviously totally exposed has not been touched in any way. Should I attempt to insulate this area as well do you think? Thank you for your thoughts.

New Build/Heating Design

2012-05-05T22:12:53+01:00

Hi all

I'm a newbie here and my technical knowledge/understanding is limited but is improving all the time as I have spent quite a while searching this forum.

We are building a timber-frame closed panel house this year, which is 190m2 over 3 floors (using attic space). I know we are probably falling at the first hurdle in terms of being green due to the size of the house but it is very well insulated and airtight (with MVHR) and so should be very energy efficient.

Which brings me to my question...how do we decide on the best way to provide the heating requirements? We plan to have ufh on ground floor with rads upstairs and towel rails in bathrooms. We also would like a small (5kw) room-sealed wood burner in the living room for occasional use. I know this is a 'want' rather than a 'need' but this is non-negotiable as far as my husband is concerned.

The architect has specified a condensing boiler with megaflow cylinder. Ideally I would also like to install solar thermal and link this in. I have read lots of threads on here re. thermal stores and admittedly have got rather confused about whether we should use one or not. The budget is tight so cost is obviously an important factor. This may seem a silly question but who exactly am I meant to be asking these questions to? I want unbiased, independent advice on what our heating needs will be and the best way to supply them. I'd be grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction!

Thanks

Wind farm noise in court

2011-07-04T19:37:49+01:00

Wind farm noise goes to court..

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2011162/Wind-farms-whoom-whoom-whoom-noise-drove-mad-farmers-claiming-3m-tell-High-Court.html

Quote:
Lawyers for the couple say they are now seeking an injunction to bring about modification of the operation of the wind farm, plus some £400,000 damages to compensate them for the noise nuisance that has blighted their lives.

Also in the Telegraph..

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/earth/environment/8615569/Noisy-wind-farm-drove-couple-out-of-their-home.html

and The Times but that's subscription only.

Whole roof solar thermal

2009-02-17T19:38:34+00:00

I'd like to put 4m2 of flat panel solar heating on the roof of my barn, but the listed building people are not impressed. They want smaller, but that isn't going to work, so I was thinking of installing a very long run of pipes just under the tiles in the ventilation space, with the aluminium flanges used for underfloor heating to hold it all together. Apart from the complexity can anyone offer any comments on how well it might work. I'd have about 14m2 of roof to play with.

MVHR Controls

2012-05-16T09:07:30+01:00

A question for all you out there with MVHR.

What are the best and most useful controls?

I am thinking that I should have humidity sensors that auto switch the unit to boost in every bathroom so that they switch to boost when having a shower etc and possibly another humidstat in the kitchen. Also a central boost switch downstairs maybe linked in with the kitchen one.

Also summer bypass - good idea?

Right to privacy?

2012-05-12T16:17:52+01:00

We have a small problem, regarding the positioning of windows in a new build. In the original planning approval, a neighbour managed to convince the planners to prevent a first floor window being fitted in an elevation that would overlook a small part of their garden (not any windows in their house). The nearest edge of the neighbours back garden in question is just over 20 metres away, and across the other side of a lane (their garden backs on to the lane). The neighbours house has it's gable end facing, and directly on, the lane and has no windows. Between their garden and the wall of the new house where I'd like to fit a window there is a single storey pitched roof garage, around 3.5 m high at the ridge.

I've searched the planning portal and other places for advice, but can't find anything that defines any "right to privacy". In this instance I'm not at all sure there really will be a clear view from the window to their garden, anyway, at least not at anything below about head height, as the sight line will be limited by both the garage roof ridge and the hedge at the edge of the lane (which is around 2.5 m high).

I can't easily fit obscure glass, as the window in question is in the living room and looks down on to a small area of garden between the house and the garage. My view is that 20 m from their boundary, plus the intervening garage and hedge, is sufficient to provide a reasonable degree of privacy. It's perhaps worth noting that the area of the neighbours garden that could possibly be overlooked is a rockery, with no area for sitting out, etc.

Has anyone tackled this sort of thing with the planners and managed to win any concessions, please?

Has anyone read the Green Deal Consultation?

2011-12-15T09:52:26+00:00

....and do you feel happy with it? For example, has anyone got from it a better idea than I have on how expensive (big, tricky) EWI jobs will ever meet the Golden Rule without an ECO bigger than I guess will actually happen?

LENR again

2012-01-13T09:11:58+00:00

I still hesitate to post info on LENR (AKA cold fusion) but this is on a NASA web site aimed at facilitating technology transfers to industry...

http://technologygateway.nasa.gov/media/CC/lenr/lenr.html

That link also features on the home page...

http://technologygateway.nasa.gov/

FiT Provider

2012-05-14T09:56:36+01:00

We are hopefully having PV installed this week and I have spent the weekend reading through my current electricity supplier’s Fit info.

I was annoyed to see that if I want to change electricity supplier in future I also need to transfer my FiT provider to the new company.

http://www.npower.com/idc/groups/wcms_content/@wcms/@resi/documents/digitalassets/fit_information_booklet.pdf (p4).

I will probably find that they aren’t the best deal when our already low usage drops and I would like to avoid reams of paperwork every time I want to change electricity company.

I don’t really fancy transferring to utilities warehouse for a strings attached short term sweetener.

I have spoken to good energy who I saw mentioned positively on other forums and they seemed helpful and don’t restrict me from changing electricity supplier but admitted it could take 9 weeks for me to get the cash after submitting meter reading! Is this normal?

Any recommendations (you can whisper if you feel more comfortable).

Thanks

John

GRP roof coverings

2012-05-12T12:50:46+01:00

Does anyone have any experience of GRP as a lead roof substitute. It's for a small pitched roof.
For instance does it look OK, and how does it weather? The longevity seems fine, and all the components/mouldings etc are readily available. Is it easily applied? What about flashing to a house wall?
Any advice greatly received. Mike

Heating controls - compatability

2012-05-14T13:47:44+01:00

Anyone know enough about heating controls to advise is it possible for a larger dwelling to use time and temperature zone control (Domestic Heating Compliance Guide requirement for dwellings over 150m²), with both a delayed start thermostat and a weather compensator.

One set of SAP software I use seems to allow all three together and gives a benefit, but the other software I use doesn't allow the delayed start option with time and temperature zone control. Not sure which set of software is wrong.

Appreciate any feedback...

Aerogel: Building control approval.

2012-05-09T14:01:35+01:00

In our "extension + refurb" of our solid brick end terrace we've insulated everywhere (loft, underfloor, cavity walls of block and brick extension, EWI where possible to solid wall, IWI where not possible).

For the IWI we've used mostly 75mm celotex, but on a couple of walls where we don't have space we've used aerogel - the type laminated to a magnesium silicate board either 49mm (40mm aerogel + 9mm board; on the internal face of an external wall of an alcove where the window is < 50mm from the wall - we're already cutting into the architrave a bit here) or 29mm (on the wall overlapping the EWI and on the chimney breasts which project into the rooms, both to avoid cold bridging. The chimney breasts will be filled with more insulation, either surrounding the flue or completely filled).

My problem is that our inspector from Building Control has never heard of aerogel and has asked for BBA certificate etc... This was a bit of a shock to me, given that I thought aerogel was a pretty much accepted product (i.e. appears on energy savings trust publication CE71 as amongst the 'highest performance' insulation materials). I have asked the manufacturers to email the data to building control, but they have been a bit slow about doing so.

What happens if building control won't sign off the use of aerogel insulation in these fews areas where celotex would have been impossible? Am I looking at a huge expense of having it removed?

Passivhaus Specifications & Details

2009-10-19T11:56:19+01:00

I plan to build a house to Passivhaus standards and I am in the process of looking for a plot of land. After a number of months harvesting information and recommendations from the AECB, this forum & other sources, I have developed the attached specification. Note there are a number of different tabs for structure, windows & doors, HVAC, U values, etc.

How is an architect likely to react to receiving such a detailed brief? Can you recommend an architect in the East Anglia region with experience of low energy homes who would be interested in taking such a brief? Any thoughts on the specification itself?

David

Lower CO2 cements (GGBS or PFA etc.) in 25kg bags?

2012-05-13T22:10:14+01:00

Hi,

I'm getting to the bit of my refurb where I'll start using a chunk of concrete in foundations and floor slabs.

Ideally I'd like to use Ground Granulated Blastfurnace Slag (GGBS), or Pulverised Fly Ash (PFA) to displace some of the portland cement, in order to reduce the environmental impact.

So, the question is, where do you get the stuff (readymix is easier I understand, but the site makes that problematic).

So far, I've come up with (localish):

Some cements which are sold as sulphur-resistant e.g. blue circle "sulfacrete", which is 35% (I think) PFA, but is a bit pricey (£8+? for a 25Kg bag).

http://www.lafarge.co.uk/CementProductBrochures/Cement_in_Sustainable_Construction.pdf

Similarly, some other "CEM II/B-V" cements (21% to 35% PFA) are available I think, but I haven't found any prices on them from local suppliers.

Not so local, but cheaper (I'd probably go 50/50 portland/GGBS with this) - GGBS at £6 for a 25kg bag from some lime specialists:

http://www.buildinglime.co.uk/price.html

Anyone happen to have come up with a better lower CO2 cement? I don't know how "portland-limestone" cements compare embodied CO2-wise either...

A bit of info:

http://www.greenspec.co.uk/greening-of-concrete.php

http://www.lafarge.co.uk/CementProductBrochures/Cement_in_Sustainable_Construction.pdf

http://www.cemex.co.uk/re/pdf/lt-cementitious.pdf

Anyone done this research before and come up with anything?

Tim.

p.s. Looked at limecrete, but can't really do it with my budget or timescales unfortunately...

soaking wet chimney in thatched stone cottage

2012-05-14T20:01:55+01:00

Would any experienced experts mind offering me any advice re a severe damp problem in a brick chimney penetrating a thatched roof? The chimney has always been damp, but the problem seems to be getting worse, & none of the local builders seem to know how to remedy - or more specifically, they all contradict each other, and I don’t think they have dealt with chimneys in a thatched roof before.

Please see below 2 jpeg photos of the chimney, and at the top of the first photo a small link to a pdf elevation.

The brickwork in the attic below the thatch is soaked, damp has caused rot in joinery below, and is coming through the plastered stone wall supporting the brick chimney.

We'd like to use the chimney for a wood burning stove, and know this is risky in a thatched house without a steel liner. I also suspect that a liner would prevent the flue from drying out. I could make it into an open hearth fire as this would have lower gas temperatures, but my building insurance would be invalid if the chimney caught fire unless lined. I dont have to use the fire, but would prefer to if possible.

One suggestion is to spary the brick with numerous coats of clear water sealer/repellant once the brick dries out this summer.

Another is to put a cowl over the chimney pot.

Another is to totally remove the brickwork back to the inner step and fit a steel cavity tray across here at level 6

Can any experienced old school expert types offer any advice please? Id rather not receive conjecture suggestions from any well meaning types who arent certain :shamed:

thanks in advance

MVHR units

2012-05-12T14:57:59+01:00

I have a quote from AllergyPlus for MVHR. Looking through the recovery units on their website https://www.airflow.co.uk/Products?category=pg_VUNI&catdesc=Top-Connection-Heat-Recovery-Units I am wondering what the difference between the £400 and £2.3K units could be as air rate seems about the same. I have been offered the DV90 SE but am interested in the Duplexvent 71. Is the former really worth the extra cost? The main difference is that the DV90 I think has a variable speed motor and the 71, 3 fixed speeds. The DV90 also has the option of a 900W heating element and frost protection. As the unit will be inside a warm roof I do no see that as a requirement.

I also not that these units only have 2/3 year warranty which for a £2.3K item is a bit poor.

Knocking £2K off the install is extremely attractive! So, what have I missed?

Modulating boilers - whatever happened to them?

2012-05-07T13:51:07+01:00

I need to replace my ageing combi boiler, and had planned to get a modulating one to complement renewable sources I plan to add in the future. That is, a boiler that adjusts its heat input according to whether the feed water has been pre-heated.

I'm surprised to discover very few models showing up on an online search, and only two, old, hits for "modulating boiler" in this forum. The main domestic manufacturers (Worcester Bosch, Baxi, etc) don't seem to have added a modulating offering. A few use modulating pumps, but only Alpha and Atlantic (the latter being ugly sods you wouldn't want in your house) seem to have true heat modulation.

Are modulating combi boilers an idea that just never caught on? (if so why?), or has it been replaced with some magic new technology I've missed? Or if it's still a goer, what are the good, robust products?

Thanks,
Andy