Sun, 18 Oct 2026 01:54:00 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18341 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18341 Mon, 01 Sep 2025 15:58:30 +0100 BWork
Greenbuilding.co.uk, owned by the AECB, promotes excellence in design and construction. This website, including the very popular Green Building Forum, was set up by Keith Hall, who co-founded the AECB back in 1989. Keith kindly donated the site to the AECB on his retirement in 2025.

The Greenbuilding site is for everyone from industry professionals including architects, builders, developers to green enthusiasts and homeowners looking for information and a place to discuss all aspects of sustainable building.

With the money that we hope to raise from this Crowdfunder we will be able to update the original website and forum, currently working using older technology that does not allow for necessary changes to the platform. With your support of a much-needed funding boost we will be able to invest in new technology that will bring the site into the 2020s. This will make it easier for visitors to navigate around the site and read the valuable information and resources we share, for those on their sustainable building journey. Users will also be able to sign up quicker and get involved in the conversations.

https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/qr/dyR52gZn?utm_campaign=sharemodal&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=shortlink]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 Tue, 15 May 2007 18:00:44 +0100 GBP-Keith https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18491 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18491 Sat, 17 Oct 2026 13:25:49 +0100 Victorianeco
I am planning to use plastic pipework (I have previous experience with Hep2O) or MLCP (Multi-Layer Composite Pipe). Before finalizing the install, I would appreciate some advice or schematic recommendations regarding:

Pipe Sizing & Bore Differences: What pipe sizes should I run for main feeds versus branches? I’m aware of the internal diameter (bore) reduction with standard plastic/pipe inserts and MLCP fittings compared to copper.

Maximum Pipe Runs: Are there recommended maximum run lengths to prevent noticeable pressure drop or long dead-legs (wait times for hot water)?

Manifold Layout Strategy: Is it better to run one central manifold supplying all outlets individually (home-run system), or use local secondary manifolds/sub-branches (e.g., one trunk to a manifold upstairs, another downstairs)?

Schematics / Layout Examples: Does anyone have a basic pipework schematic or layout diagram they could share for a 2-bathroom plus kitchen domestic setup?

Any advice, diagrams, or lessons learned would be hugely appreciated!
Thanks in advance!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18490 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18490 Fri, 16 Oct 2026 12:33:48 +0100 cc64
We're enclosing a previously open-sided porch to create an unconditioned entrance lobby. A vent serving the void below the beam-and-block floor, and positioned below the original front door, will vent into the new porch enclosure. Building control will not be impressed if we don't extend from the brick vent aperture and duct out to the side wall and through a new brink vent.

Naively I thought this would be straightforward enough. But am not finding suitably dimensioned ducting. It seems "there's not much call for that".

Has anyone else successfully grappled with this conundrum, and if so how? Having trawled through "countless" websites ( DOMUS, Manrose, Airvent, Mapthorpe, Wolseley, AirflowDevelopments, Timloc) I'm asking for a reality check; can this vent be re-established with a horizonal extension, a horizontal 90 flat corner, and another horizontal extension out to the new sidewall brink vent? Or is my architect havin a larf?

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15387 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15387 Fri, 10 Nov 2017 15:15:25 +0000 Simon Still
I'm looking for a 'undersink' unit (https://www.uk-water-filters.co.uk/Your_Scale_Centurion_Undersink_Cartridge.html) but more detail on the page above. Trying to work out if it actually works or not. I can't find anyone else in the Uk selling them which makes me suspicious

"Our Scale Centurion is a proven and fully tested technology.
It works by extracting harmful dissolved limescale from your water via a patented process.
The Scale Centurion beads mimic the natural tendency of dissolved limescale to crystallise by forming microscopic hard crystals on the media surface. But it accelerates the process before the scale can stick to pipe and other surfaces further downstream.
Once the microscopic crystals grow large enough, they are freed from the surface by the water pressure / flow.
When the Scale Centurion treated water dries on surfaces, these crystals form a fine residue that is easily wiped off without any need for scouring cleansers. Often you won't see any residue at all.
Please note our salt fee softeners do NOT use Polyphosphates. These remove only 81% of Scale, release chemicals into the water and require regular replacement.
The unique media in our softeners create a ceramic template which allows the calcium ions to form into non-scaling crystals (guaranteed). "]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18483 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18483 Tue, 22 Sep 2026 09:29:39 +0100 borpin No fixing through the insulation.

https://www.insofast.com/products/insofast-batt-brackets]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18489 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18489 Sat, 10 Oct 2026 12:36:57 +0100 Rex
After three months of faffing around, Openreach orders created then cancelled, three cancelled engineer visits and one visit who only managed to find problems (small branch hanging across the pole, no survey to ensure there is no gas/elec/water in the apex where the current phone line enters) yesterday, finally, an OR engineer with common sense managed to fit the fibre, ans as she described the job to a colleague, it was 'p*ss easy!'

The original copper has been removed and apparently, EE will assign a temp phone number before moving my existing number to the new service. One phone is plugged into the router and give a 'no number on this service' message, which is fine. Have plugged the supplied Home Phone Adaptor into the 13a but it is not syncing with the router; perhaps that is because there is no connection yet. Time will tell.

However, although there is no copper connection to the outside world, all the BT wiring and Master Socket is of course,still in place. Is there a way to connect extension phones to the router using the existing wiring rather than relying on a wi-fi signal? In other words, can the extension phones be plugged into the BT wiring as normal and the Master Socket connected directly to the router with the RJ11 socket?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18469 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18469 Tue, 25 Aug 2026 16:01:56 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
It feels sensible to pour a level hard standing here as a base for all of the above. My current thought is a concrete raft slab of 100-150mm thickness would be more than enough support, but I'm open to suggestions on this.

Three sides are enclosed by ~2m high concrete retaining walls supporting neighbour's gardens, so formwork along the remaining edge should be straightforward.

My questions are:

- Should I insulate and/or damp proof below it, anticipating the potential ultimate use as an outdoor room? Or are these generally raised up on pedestals anyway?

- Will I need reinforcement and or movement/expansion joints in this footprint?

- Anything missing? Ducting for electrics perhaps?

I realise this could spiral into a full-on house slab if I'm not careful, and I'm keen to keep things simple and affordable. More likely than not it will remain a concrete extension of the patio for many years - I just don't want to miss an opportunity for some future-proofing.

NB - I can't dig down much deeper for the risk of upsetting the retaining walls, so underground nuclear bunkers aren't going to happen!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18487 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18487 Sat, 26 Sep 2026 08:40:17 +0100 tony
I loved Barnabas when he suggested that we should be willing to compromise comfort! Brave suggestion
And for floating the idea that we should be recording energy rather than (or as well as carbon) - fully agree.

Evan, I am loved your stories and the serious points about facilitating the uptake of heat pumps, return next year pls]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18479 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18479 Sun, 13 Sep 2026 10:20:33 +0100 englishjohn
We have settled on 200mm EPS EWI and are now looking at the windows. The wife is concerned that the sunken-window look won’t look very nice. The windows would originally have sat on the blockwork, approximately 200mm inboard of the finished face of the EWI.

I need to move them outwards, ideally in the easiest and cheapest way possible, as I’m having to make some sacrifices due to the costs spiralling.

Compacfoam is expensive, and cutting and setting out individual blocks would also be quite time-consuming for the builder. He has suggested simply using 100mm treated timber, similar to a fence post, and fixing it back into the blockwork, perhaps with some steel brackets along the bottom and possibly the sides.

I would also like to be able to remove the windows from the inside if anything goes wrong in the future, without having to destroy or significantly disturb the EWI.

Can anyone give me any guidance on whether the timber approach would be suitable, or suggest a better/cheaper way of achieving this? Windows approx 3G 1600mmx1700mm, doors 3000mmx2100mm and 2100mmx2100mm.

Secondly, I’ve also been quoted approximately £16/m² for graphite EPS beads to fill the existing cavity. Does that sound about right?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18486 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18486 Thu, 24 Sep 2026 14:54:20 +0100 englishjohn
So, after another hot year, I thought it would be good to add them into the build, until I noticed the prices. That aside, thermal bridging appears to be an issue, along with possible ongoing maintenance access.

External shading, though, sounds like a win-win. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience with them?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18473 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18473 Thu, 03 Sep 2026 13:33:20 +0100 Artiglio
Over last 5 years , i’ve been renovating and improving a listed property, (old barn with attached cottage), in the cottage section, there are 3 parts , original cottage and a 1930’s extension, added coal store (now included in cottage) again 1o30’s.
This has a mix of solid and suspended floors. Lots of alterations over its history. When floors were lifted, lots of rubbish and debris beneath, all cleared out. Evidence of previous damp / rot. But once cleared this all dried out over a year or so. There were only air bricks in the main extension, 6 more were added and ducted under solid floors where needed. A mix of insulation methods as it was all reinstated. All’s well and good most of year. But in hot humid periods ( i’m half mile from coast) i get a musty smell, that’s seemingly coming from under the floor.

My thoughts are it’s moist air condensing under the floor sufficiently to allow a bit of mould/damp. The void space is mostly about a metre deep, cool and has a lean mix blinding ( this was there already). Whilst i’d tried to make sure that there was good airflow patently it’s not been enough.

I’m considering adding some forced ventilation using a constantly running fan to draw air out via an airbrick that’s ducted to what i believe is the problem area. The air being drawn in via the other airbricks.

Is this a sensible way forward or am I risking just drawing more moisture into the area and adding to the problem? Is constant low volume flow any better or worse that going for periodic high flow (downside of background noise) either way the fans will be on a voltage controller so that extraction rate can be varied.

I expect there’ll ne the suggestion of adding a humidity sensor to the problem area to control the fan. That is’nt going to be practical now that this section of the house is now finished. I’d rather add the fan and see if it makes a difference then consider if the amount of work to add a sensor is worth any likely improvement ( especially if a low volume fan works).
Fan i’m considering has a max air flow of 180 m3 /hr.
Lastly whilst my intention is to extract, would it be better to force air into the suspected area instead?

Many thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18485 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18485 Wed, 23 Sep 2026 13:01:26 +0100 Artiglio
In my local paper there’s been an article in respect of a synchronous condenser being planned for connection to the grid.
I’ve tried reading up on what is, but i’m no electrical engineer.
However am i right in thinking that it’s effectively a standalone flywheel connected to the grid to provide inertia ( iirc this was the term used in the thread about the spanish blackout last year), and that there may be a need for more of these across the country as time passes?

https://theisleofthanetnews.com/2026/09/21/plan-for-synchronous-condenser-to-be-installed-on-farm-site-in-ramsgate/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18482 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18482 Sat, 19 Sep 2026 11:41:07 +0100 Rex
I know that Postcrete does what it says on the box and have used it as such.

Currently, in the process of 'leveling' some 450 x 450 paving slabs for the base for two IBC tanks. The soil is well compacted (around 15 years of walking and wheel barrows) but inevitably, not quite level and slightly slopes.

I'm wondering if I get the slabs level and shutter around them, can Postcrete be an easy way to make a solid base for the pavers?

Just found Slablayer; presumably does a better job for this purpose than Postcrete? Or is a regular sand/cement mix still the preferred method?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18478 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18478 Tue, 08 Sep 2026 23:16:48 +0100 Victorianeco
We don't want concrete as they fade over time, we have realised we won't get away with a re-roof in our area with standing seam or corrugated due to planning and keeping the street similar.

So we need to pick slates or tiles but we're thinking larger format tiles will achieve the look we are aiming for.

Any pointers on this?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18443 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18443 Thu, 11 Jun 2026 11:42:34 +0100 fostertom
1. The new thinking, which removes high-standard External Wall Insulation (EWI) from its pedestal as the default/ideal for retrofit, on grounds that the embodied carbon (i.e. the CO2 and CO2-equivalent released to atmosphere) created in 'quarrying', manufacturing, transporting and installing EWI, is likely to exceed, sooner and for longer duration, the in-use carbon it saves over the building's subsequent lifetime.
Couple that with the rapidly declining carbon content of mains electricity, which means that electricity consumed over the building's in-use lifetime, already and increasingly carries little penalty in global heating.
Then, compared to super-insulation hence consuming minimal energy-in-use, the alternative of omitting the super-insulation hence consuming plenty of 'harmless' electric (via heat pump) energy-in-use, can actually be a lot better for planetary climate, both in this emergency-short-term, and over the building's lifetime.

2. Retrofitting the 30% of UK building stock which is still-uninsulated cavity wall, with or without EWI the cavities should be filled (CWI), as it's near-impossible to prevent outside air blowing around in the cavity. Even fitting EWI can't be relied on to seal the multiple cracks, entry points and open-to-loft top of typical cavities - outside air is still liable to bypass the EWI, separated from the interior only by the inner skin. External render can't be relied on either. Even Partial-fill CWI is poor at preventing outside air blowing around in the cavity; it really needs to be full-fill CWI.

3. CWI is cheap to install, with small embodied carbon. So, considering both 1. and 2. above, the new default looks like installing full-fill CWI, without EWI, along with electric (via heat pump) energy-in-use. In which the CWI is an indispensable part, hardly works without.

4. But what about cavity-wall buildings in high-exposure areas? There, CWI is pretty much banned by Building Regs, certainly with traditional 50 wide cavities (as opposed to more recent 100-ish cavities) and certainly in exposure Zone 4 areas (i.e. most of the west/southwest of UK). External render doesn't help.
https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/606c366ad3bf7f400e10af54/wic-final-report.pdf also gives little hope that a coat of gunk would make the wall more suitable for CWI.
Does anyone know different?

5. Without CWI, a house has nearly zero insulation, if outside air is blowing about only separated from the interior by the inner skin - even if accepting plenty of 'harmless' electric (via heat pump) use. Especially if extending an unfilled cavity-wall house; the existing cavity wall becomes an internal wall, but super-cooled because its cavity is continuous with the still-external parts of the cavity wall adjacent.

6. Similar applies if you've EWI'd your half of a semi-detached house; your unfilled cavity, inside the EWI, will be super-cooled because continuous with next-door's unfilled cavity.

So WTF to do about all this? Any solutions, bright ideas?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18476 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18476 Mon, 07 Sep 2026 18:55:40 +0100 fostertom
Hence only 25 PIR over the extg reinf conc slab with 32 timber floating flooring, but downstanding 'coffer dam' of 250 EPS (continuous with wall insul) in slit trench 1200 deep, french drain at bottom, gives floor 0.25U, the BldgRegs Table 4.2 'improved' figure, as the whole is a Material Change of Use, not newbuild. The block of subsoil beneath, inside its 'coffer dam', will somewhat adopt an intermediate temp which will be partly-ground-coupled to the interior via the weak insulation.

Blockwork ground floor and stairwell partitions built off the slab on insulating strip stuff (so penetrating the weak floor insul hardly matters) add more interior massiveness. As ever-strengthening heatwaves become the norm, overheating at least as important as winter loss, internal massiveness has new importance.

Roof and walls can have extremely good insulation, airtightness and continuity, copiously through-ventilated (vertical bris-soleil?) to keep cladding cooler, as well as shielding from winter clear-sky cold. Windows thoroughly shaded by brise soleil etc.

Question is - is PH, no heating system, within reach? Though not the classic PH approach, would PHPP be impressed by insulation elsewhere compensating for the floor, internal massiveness and ground coupling particularly as affecting overheating, walls and roof shading?

If not, it's a centralised plan, so AAHP with very short ducts, incl AC (why not, as well as the passive overheating measures?) which might do the DHW, and/otherwise night-store, and wet solar - is that still a thing? MVHR of course.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18477 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18477 Tue, 08 Sep 2026 11:30:01 +0100 Rex
Having managed to fish the CAT6 cable fro the loft (second floor?) to the g/f office space, I need a 3m length to connect form the wall socket to the router (when Openreach finally manage to install the fibre; at the moment, this year, next year sometime, never!!)

The cable is a factory made, 50m with male at each end. I wonder about cutting a 3m length off, and fitting a male plug to each cut end, then I will have the necessary extension. But.... how do I know which wiring standard the factory fitted plugs? Either T568A or T568B? Is there a way to determine? Or is it just a case of wire one way and if it does not work, try the other?

Although I hardly need an RJ45 network tester, by chance, my favorite Lidl has them on sale today so bought one for the mega sum of £4.99.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9824 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9824 Sun, 18 Nov 2012 07:52:17 +0000 Beau https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18471 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18471 Fri, 28 Aug 2026 17:11:51 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
Since it's on everyone's minds right now, we've been discussing how we can use less water at home. One idea is using cold bath water to top up our WC cistern.

Ours is a concealed cistern (Geberit Duofix) so the proper access is via a removable faceplate. The idea with this would be to introduce a separate hole and hose arrangement on one side, with some sort of inlet valve to allow topping up the water level using a watering can or jug filled from the bath.

Any suggestions for what we could use at the filling end? All I can think of is some sort of wall-mounted tundish like the below.

Also, is this mad? Anything we should be wary of, other than probably needing to de-scale/clean the cistern more frequently?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18465 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18465 Fri, 07 Aug 2026 15:32:33 +0100 Rex
Have a 6000 liter rainwater collection tank in the garden (mainly for toilet flushing but also garden use) and it has of course, been empty for the past two months.

Wish I had installed an even larger tank but 15 years ago, who could predict this extended drought.

So at the behest of SWMBO, I am investigating most likely, one (or perhaps two) IBC and how to fill. Obviously, the best location is somewhere that I can divert rainwater but the design of the house is such that the only place would be against a side wall and these are somewhat ugly things.

Since the loft tank (for flushing) is filled by a submersible timer pump, I could access the pipe and T off to an IBC situated in a less obnoxious location. But is it possible to install a ball valve in an IBC so that when fill, it does not overflow?

I have not researched this idea but thoughts would be welcome.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18470 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18470 Wed, 26 Aug 2026 13:32:37 +0100 Rex Thought I had a separate CAT6 thread but only topics relating to my attempts, namely toilet seat and plasterboard.

Knowing that y'all are sitting on the edge of your seats, after a lot of procrastination and alternative plans, plus attempting limited demolition (Right said Fred, gotta take the wall down!), persistence has paid off and yesterday, I found the fish rod end and have finally have the CAT6 cable form the loft (second floor), horizontally through the Posi-joist / Warmcell floor/ceiling and into the wardrobe. From there , it will be a simple vertical drop to where I will install the CAT6 socket.

Don't recall any job where I have been so persistent in my efforts.

I won't make good until the fibre to the house is installed and I know the CAT6 is working; then a simple decoration job.

I did not remove the toilet but did remove the small cabinet beside the toilet which allowed me to bore another 100mm hole into the 22mm OSB to get a better angle.

Appreciate all the advice and suggestions.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18453 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18453 Sat, 04 Jul 2026 14:48:15 +0100 Rex

Frequently happening as I get older, I am getting my knickers in a twist as technology leaves me behind.
At the moment, broadband and landline is with PlusNet via fibre to the pole. We are not paying for the landline, but it does receive incoming and we would pay per minute for outgoing calls.

My contract is ending but PlusNet are no longer offer a landline, just Full Fibre b/b. However, their associate company EE, will offer full fibre to the house and I assume, VoIP to keep the phone and phone number.

I am told that an engineer will have to assess how to get the fibre to, and then, into the house. At the moment, it is overhead to the front roof apex, then phone cable to the various RJ45 sockets which was part of the building process. The ''customer help' was not exactly helpful with my questions, but ......

Fibre has to come to the router which if it was in the loft, can I then use the existing wiring to the computers on the g/f?

The 'unhelpful' assistant was suggesting the fibre will have to be routed down the wall then drilled through the wall to where the office is located. The house is timber frame with Warmcel insulation. There is the breather paper on the frame (but that is inside the cavity) and internally, there is scrim under the Fermacel. Drilling through either of these materials is like drilling into a ball of wool; it just rips everything to shreds.

How does a fibre cable come into a very well sealed house if it has to be drilled through the frame and insulation? Once inside the house, can I use the existing wiring to use additional computers in different rooms?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18467 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18467 Thu, 20 Aug 2026 11:33:40 +0100 thebeacon
I’m seeking some advice on making good the pathway at the front of my house. Its currently a 50-100mm slab of concrete which has some cracks and a drain in. The water currently runs towards and pools in front of the door.

I would like to repair the footpath and add a slight ramping in front of the door to direct the water to run away from the house. The entire path is about 2.6 x 1.3m. I imagine some areas would need 40mm while others less than 10mm.

I’d rather not break out the entire slab and add a resin based concrete product on top. Does anyone have any experience or advice with doing this? I have been looking at Cretex® EP Mortar (https://polycote.com/contact/) as a possible option to use.

Thanks,
Tom]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18466 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18466 Sun, 16 Aug 2026 17:16:07 +0100 Rex
The headline on the front of today's Telegraph is what can only be described as 'surge pricing' for water during droughts. The aim is to encourage us to use less water.

This really anger me as we have a 6k liter rainwater collection tank and apart fro the fact that I'm not paying for incoming and by default, sewerage charges for using that water, I am unlikely to get any consideration for the fact that I am using less treated water than most houses.

With all the building regs we have in place, surely it makes sense that every new build, whether single houses or estates, must have a large rainwater collection to be used for toilet flushing. After all, every new build has to have a large soak-away, so why not collect that water before it goes to the soak-away?

It is absolute madness to flush expensively treated, potable water down the lavatory.

Now I'm off my soapbox!!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18440 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18440 Thu, 28 May 2026 20:27:00 +0100 Rex
Just seen this on the Mail on Line web site.

https://www.dailymail.com/news/article-15854881/solar-panels-explode-home-explodes-flames-family-inside-escape.html

Will we ever hear why this happened? Bet the estate developers will have a nightmare with all the other owners wanting reassurance their solar panels will not catch fire. There is a 100 Taylor Wimpey built estate near me and they all have solar panels.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18457 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18457 Tue, 21 Jul 2026 19:02:37 +0100 Rex
In my continuing quest to find a way to thread a CAT6 cable from the loft to the office, it may (only may?) be useful to remove the toilet to allow better access to the small area of floor below the pipe.

Not a big job, just a couple of screws and wiggle it free from the fittings. Of course, I would have ensured the cistern is empty.

But the toilet has been in place for around 15 years and I am wondering if the various seals should be replaced when re-installing, or are they all OK to reuse? Of particular concern would be the two yellow seals, which I assume are not replaceable. I would give a smear of silicone grease around the seal before reinstalling.

Your thoughts most gratefully taken on board.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18461 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18461 Wed, 29 Jul 2026 13:53:50 +0100 Rex
Me again!!!

I frequently feel that design somehow does not improve the function, and this is exactly the case.

As in the two photos below, I have one of these bath tap shower fittings. In the lower photo, push the right thing and it switches from bath filling to shower. But!!!!

Frequently, either this does not happen or if it does, the design malfunctions and upon turning the water off, it will not revert to bath or most frequently, supplies both shower and bath at the same time.

The left spring sits in a recess in the body of the tap, so should all be locked in place. Disassembly usually shows one of two things: 1/ The spring has somehow, become dislodged or 2/ one of the O rings has been forced by water pressure from its seat. The water is running at 3 bar because that is the recommended pressure for the softener.

How to resolve the all to frequent dismantling beats me. It happens pretty much every couple of months. I have investigated replacing the tap unit, but want the same, which of course is either no longer available or is surplus stock for around a very profitable £250.

Having dismantled, reset whatever is unset, reassembled, it will work as it should for a few months, then the cycle repeats itself.

Grateful for any insight into how to ensure the push button works every time as it should.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18463 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18463 Thu, 30 Jul 2026 16:47:39 +0100 tony
https://share.icloud.com/photos/053drZp42Ur_dTRWMN-hRQb8w

Hope the link works]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18459 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18459 Mon, 27 Jul 2026 07:25:39 +0100 Rex
Continuing with a different topic but still related to my CAT6 cable saga, I think I am planning to cut at least one hole, and maybe two 10 cms holes into the plasterboard ceiling.

My wife wiggled the fish rod (oven sized earth wire) and I can clearly hear that it is kinda where I want it, but nevertheless, still around 10 cms+ away from where I can grab hold. The option is to drill an access hole ito the plasterboard ceiling, behind which is the Warmcel!!!

On the destination side, it is not a major issue as we have emptied the wardrobe and the dust can fall onto the shelf. But the office side (which is where the wire is at the moment, has all the office equipment below.

Apart from removing, disconnecting everything, dust sheets, etc, is there a way to drill a hole in plasterboard that does not send dust everywhere? I've seen vids on a small, drill-bit hole but not 10cms. Of course, I would use a vac but that is challenging with 10 cms. Perhaps a padsaw?

Your thoughts appreciated.

Thanks

Rex]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18460 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18460 Tue, 28 Jul 2026 11:17:41 +0100 WillInAberdeen
I put breathable wood-fibre IWI with Lime Green Solo plaster on the external stone wall of a room, and want to hang plain lining paper (no vinyl) to match the existing finish on the other internal walls. I will paint the lining paper with some breathable paint, probably Earthborn.

Lime Green say they don't recommend wallpapering their plaster but didn't explain why.


ISTM that lime plaster walls have traditionally been wallpapered for 100s of years including in my house, so not sure what the issues might come up?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18051 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18051 Fri, 15 Dec 2023 09:32:39 +0000 djh https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18458 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18458 Thu, 23 Jul 2026 18:04:13 +0100 DrewWiley
On the inside Its open oak rafters, then oak square edge sarking with 3mm spacing using random sized boards. I dont want any insulation on the inside of the building as it looks lovely inside.

Externally i dont want any soffits or fascias just open rafters and perlin ends.

My dilema is insulating the roof, my initial thought is as follows

the sarking is pretty flat however not perfectly flat.

Rafters are 80mm so on top of the sarking lay a vapour membrane (i need to this to be black as i will see it through the sarking gaps inside) ill then screw using stainless spax washer heads a 80mm wide, 50mm deep oak battens on top of the rafters (externally). i will then use kingspan 50mm k107 in between each of these new battens (from the ridge to the end of roof). then my normal roofing approach counter batten with draping roofshield followed by pantiles. Would this be a suitable approach?

I would need to use an oak batten running the length of the roof that is 50mm tall to stop the insulation sliding down and providing a more decorative finish.

This all sounds like a mix between warm and cold.

Any suggestions would be welcome, i did look into TLX Gold etc but wasn't keen.


Or do i simply use something like Solitex Fronta Quattro, then PIR, then counter battens then tiles.


Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18452 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18452 Fri, 03 Jul 2026 00:04:36 +0100 Victorianeco https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18446 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18446 Mon, 15 Jun 2026 12:07:43 +0100 Charli
I've got 30K and want a comfortable house with the lowest bills. Happy to DIY almost anything, I'm capable and practical and find it all fascinating.

With a south facing-roof solar pv is worthwhile, can fit 4.2kWp of panels on the roof and there's adjacent south-facing land that I could fit more on. I think that 6kW of panels with excess going to heat dhw will give me largely free hot water for most of the year.

Insulation would be next on my list. 400mm loft insulation is easy.
Garage I'd do a flat or pitched roof with 150mm pir in, and some form of roof lantern/velux. And IWI. The garage has no direct heating and that’s fine.

Need new windows on the north side- pvc triple glazing. The lack of condensation on the windows ever is worth it.

EWI would need the roof extending, the wires moving on the front and I've no idea what to do with the gennel (internally the narrow stairs are there). Would rockwool and lime render play nicely with the 'old houses are always damp' line I keep reading? XPS below dpc? I've no idea how far down the house goes yet- there's unlikely to be much in the way of foundations.
IWI would mean no thermal mass (wfh so in the house all day everyday largely), the kitchen/bathroom would have to wait until those rooms needed some work (I don't want to rip out a perfectly good bathroom for a few years). And the rooms are already tiny- but I could sacrifice enough for 50mm pir. Which is better than nothing, but not inspirational. (Still no idea what to do on the stairs-wall).


Any ideas/inspirational stories/words of warning/things I should go and think/read about?
Many thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18450 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18450 Tue, 30 Jun 2026 09:59:42 +0100 fostertom
I need to get up to speed with the varied considerations, like we've gradually learned with wet systems, UFH, ASHP etc. Not least grant aid. Aware of the horrors of 70s/80s cheapo air-heating, and duct-routing issues. And DHW.

Any pointers?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18449 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18449 Sun, 28 Jun 2026 13:44:21 +0100 Rex
There was a recent article in the newspaper regarding the a/c numbers in different countries. Japan (my wife is Japanese) has around 91% domestic a/c installations, the UK, less than 5%.

My wife is really, really keen to get an a/c in our house. 3g, 180mm of Warmcel insulation; I don't think it is going to happen as I'm not drilling large holes through the glazing or walls. She even thanks we could replace one of the 'smaller' glazing panels to accommodate the a/c pipe. No way Jose!!!

Her further research finds this kind of unit: https://nessally.co.uk/ Apparently, according to her, they are very popular and very good. My feeling is, it is all marking hype and a money making scam.

Is there any 'new' technology that makes these portable a/c units as good as the blurb suggests? Are they generally any good or essentially, just an expensive fan that will be in the skip in a few years time?

Grateful for your thoughts and opinions.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18447 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18447 Tue, 16 Jun 2026 12:03:45 +0100 borpin
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gift/c79c96400f3a8bff
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/money/net-zero/i-spent-900000-creating-the-ultimate-eco-home/

One thing I noted is that he is funneling his MVHR extract into a 'cupboard' around the Heatpump. That sounds like an excellent idea.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435 Wed, 13 May 2026 08:29:03 +0100 ChrisGT Cavity walls with 80mm glass wool batts, clod roof, dot and dab plasterboard walls and a terrible airtightness test
Planning to:

Fill cavities below dpc with ecobead.
Create warm roof by increasing rafter depth with intello membrane on inside and blown in gutex or warmcel and solitex plus counterbattens and battens above.

150mm eps from 300mm above ground to foundation fixed to exterior brick walls. Timber frame made from 2 x 50x50mm timber with noggins to create 150mm cavity to be filled with gutex and 40mm rendered woodfibre board outside. Intello against bricks connecting to foundation and roof vapour control layer.

Does this sound like a good plan. Have considered parge coat in wall or passivpurple but intello seems cheaper and more eco.

Triple glazed windows hung outside current wall in picture frame.

Any suggestions or thoughts on improvements?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18441 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18441 Wed, 03 Jun 2026 20:41:28 +0100 Victorianeco
Looking for my own interest more than anything?

Any tips or thoughts?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18439 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18439 Tue, 26 May 2026 16:23:27 +0100 Brightonreno21 We live in Brighton and have a Victorian terrace which is south facing and high on a hill so tends to take a bit of a battering from rain and wind. A lot of the houses on our road suffer with damp in rooms at the front

On moving in, we noticed active damp in a master room at the front of the house. The opinions we got at the time where either very expensive damp proof materials (chemical injections etc), or we were offered the suggestion of using tanking slurry to waterproof the wall. This has effectively worked, that room is now dry.

We are now doing a Reno and having read much more about breathability we’ve started to worry about this. We are wondering if we get the render done in breathable lime render, could we keep the wall as it is (remove the tanking will also be damaging for it we understand)

We’d welcome views on how much of an issue it would be to have one room be tanked/not breathable - if we then get the render done breathably.

Whilst we are reluctant to invasively remove the tanking we don’t want to be storing up too many problems]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18428 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18428 Tue, 05 May 2026 18:28:24 +0100 Rex
While cleaning today, I found in the dark recess of a cupboard that is effectively, our plant room (HW cylinder and boiler cupboard) a pile of soft stuff; no idea what it is but vacuumed it. Thought it may have been coming from some insulation around the top of the wall hanging boiler.

Checked again just now, and at the back of the cupboard on the floor, I see ants. They appear to be coming from a very small hole where the Fermacell and screed meet.

I don't like eradicating insects but I also don't want ants nesting in the timber frame / Warmcell. Google tells me how to prevent them coming into the house but what is the best way to eradicate them from where I cannot see?

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18429 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18429 Tue, 05 May 2026 20:28:22 +0100 Victorianeco
Specifically, I would like to compare:

1. Cavity Fill Only: Filling the cavity with 80mm expanded polystyrene (EPS) graphite beads while keeping new windows (3G) within the traditional layer.
2. Cavity Fill plus External Wall Insulation (EWI): Performing the above and adding a 120mm EPS board external layer.

While the latter is more thermally efficient, it is also more labour and material intensive. I need to evaluate the payback period based on current material costs and research.

Furthermore, I have concerns regarding the impact of the 120mm EWI on the property's interior. Extending the wall thickness may reduce natural light and affect viewing angles from within the room, particularly at the 30 to 45-degree angles we currently enjoy. There is also the potential loss of the window frame's aesthetic "framing" effect to consider.

What are your current thoughts on these two approaches based on up-to-date material costs and thermal performance research? Please let me know if there are any other factors I should consider at this stage.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18432 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18432 Mon, 11 May 2026 21:04:47 +0100 chrisinbrighton It appears to last way longer than sealed units and a lot better performance.
My only concerns are how visual the small spacer dots are and the width of the packer.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18424 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18424 Fri, 17 Apr 2026 19:53:40 +0100 chrisinbrighton My own experience of aluminium on bikes is that it can go brittle with age.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18433 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18433 Tue, 12 May 2026 08:21:32 +0100 thebeacon
While digging in the front garden recently I found a capped old concrete/clay pipe that leads back to the main soil drain.

My question, was this once a soil vent pipe? And if it was should I reinstate it? We had to lower the garden in front of the house, so now it sticks out the ground. I either want to cut the pipe to lower it and recap it or fit a soil vent pipe if it’s required. Other houses in the area have what appears to be a vent in their front gardens.

Cheers,]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18427 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18427 Mon, 04 May 2026 19:31:46 +0100 Rex
Neighbour has gone on holiday and asked me to keep an eye on their house, including giving some liquid refreshment to some plants.

Looking up from the rear garden yesterday, this is what I see. Went to check from the balcony and the glazing is presumably, toughened glass but also laminated. It is only the inner pane that has fractured. Wheat could possible be the cause?

Toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18425 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18425 Sun, 19 Apr 2026 23:00:46 +0100 ChrisGT https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18421 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18421 Sat, 11 Apr 2026 11:40:30 +0100 minisaurus
Has anyone experience of them? The positives are many, but what are the negatives? price I guess]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18423 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18423 Wed, 15 Apr 2026 10:35:53 +0100 andyman99
Whilst starting to help my son renovate his bathroom we came across a rather unpleasant problem. The tiles on an external wall pretty much fell off and everything behind is very wet.
Construction: this “front” wall appears to be a simple timber frame structure. From outside to in: PVC cladding - roofing felt (what I would call old style felt not a breathable membrane) - timber frame filled with fibreglass type insulation - plasterboard. The water ingress does appear to have come from the inside. The timber structure is very wet, the insulation a sodden mess and the roofing felt disintegrates as you touch it. We have an insurance assessment this Friday but I would like to understand a way forward if possible before then. I think the main structural walls are brick, left and right whilst front and back appear to be this timber frame structure. 2 rooms across the front, bathroom and bedroom. No obvious signs of a problem in the bedroom front wall. I’m wondering how fixing this would best be approached? Any ideas welcomed]]>