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			<title>Green Building Forum - General</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Mon, 25 May 2026 09:16:10 +0100</lastBuildDate>
			<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/</link>
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		<title>internal stone wall</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=340</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jun 2007 00:51:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>steph</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Just a question really. I have an internal stone wall, by the side of a brick fire place, and over time, a white furry substance appears on the stone, does anybody know what it is and how I can stop this??]]>
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		<title>Solar panels - going for overkill</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=331</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2007 21:58:35 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Jeff B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Excluding cost considerations, would there be any objections to installing say 3.6 sq. meters of panels rather than the calculated 2.4 sq. meters? The extra cost would not be that much and hopefully I would benefit from extra free heat transfer during the spring and autumn months. Comments welcome.]]>
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		<title>central heating, whats best?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=323</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 29 May 2007 19:31:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>no1smiles2000</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi all, i'm new here :)<br />I am looking to buy a house which is off the mains gas network and currently has no heating! all it has is a coal fire with back boiler for hot water.<br />Its a semi detached 3 bed house not sure about insulation etc but i will also have to get double glazing installed!<br />just dont know what sort of heating would be best and most ecconomical so all ideas will be greatly appreciated!<br />Thanks Katie]]>
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		<title>Vermiculite/leca lime crete floors?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=290</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2007 22:50:21 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>sye</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[trying to source leca in the southwest and not having much luck so wondering if anyone has used vermiculite/perlite instead of leca in a lime floor? Okay or not?]]>
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		<title>Green bin waste disposal</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=318</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 27 May 2007 23:07:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Joatex</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Green bin waste disposal<br /><br />Instead of the electricity suppliers fostering power meters on consumers and of which they will examine once, then occasionally glance and finally forget, it would seem best for a number of reasons to supply a waste disposal unit under each kitchen sink.<br /><br />If it is true that the power required to operate a waste disposal unit is less than carting the waste to the tip then it would make sense to feed the 'soup' down the sewerage system, mix it with other degradable matter, filter out solids, semi-dry by centrifuge, compost and finally steam sterilise  for garden use.<br /><br />OK  it may require more water - essential to prevent blockage but the water question could be recovered at the distant end. It may cause a blockage of the unit by attempting to process waste which should be recycled, consumers will quickly learn the ropes. <br /><br />But it will do away with waste which quickly degrades within the household in hot weather and storage problems in households where space precludes an outside bin, reduce the number of garbage disposal trucks on the highway avoiding production of more CO2, reduce or eliminate the disposal of degradable waste in tips and hence reduce the production of methane from buried degradable wate.<br /><br />Well that's a start, bound to be critics. Lets hear the good and bad comments from the intellect which abounds this forum.]]>
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		<title>Site Safety Notices</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=317</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 26 May 2007 08:08:11 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>saddlecrazy</author>
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			<![CDATA[Can anyone recommend where to get Site Safety Notices?  Jewsons charge a fortune.  They are available on ebay for a bit less.]]>
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		<title>soot/tar coming through lime plaster</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=288</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2007 17:57:11 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rachel</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi, a friend has been working on an old house. There was old soot coming through the chimney wall, and it's been hard to stop it coming through the lime plaster. He tried manure then lime, which usually works, but the soot is still coming through... any suggestions?]]>
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		<title>If the neighbours say it is OK then can it be built?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=311</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 May 2007 16:26:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[The new planning ideas coming out that if the neighbours agree to a dormer or some other mini carbuncle then it is all right to build it. This is such a major departure from historical planning guidelines that it is almost unbelievable. it gives carte blanche to do whatever you like and say that the neighbours agreed so it must have been OK to build it. A new kind of do what you like culture is looming. <br /><br />The idea that if it is not on the front of a building then that is OK is also a new one and equally dangerous.<br /><br />How come windmills are OK but not solar panels? And why are homes in national parks penalised -- if it is too ugly there then it is too ugly in my town too.<br /><br />No planning for conservatories! are they crazy -- these things if heated loose so much heat that they should not be allowed any more on purely energy efficiency grounds never mind carbon saving reasons.]]>
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		<title>Double glazing to green oak</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=286</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2007 21:42:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>philby</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[hi,wonder if anyone can help.<br /><br />I am nearing completion of a green oak extention to an old barn.The gable end which I was going to fill looks so good looking into  woodland that I would like to glaze.What I am a little worried about is the flexing of the oak ( which has now been dry for about 6 months).I would imagine that a reasonably thick rubber surround/seal would absorb any movement.Has anyone fitted this before,also advice on weather seal would be appreciated.<br />Thanks.]]>
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		<title>I have pictures/preliminary plans......</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=312</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 May 2007 17:50:53 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Katymac</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[But I don't know how to make them appear<br /><br />I've tried 3 times &amp; I get a little rude message<br /><br />So - they are very nice - but you can't see them......sorry]]>
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		<title>Please let me film your green building project!</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=305</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 22 May 2007 11:52:24 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>dan_aka_jack</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi,<br /><br />I'm planning to make a series of short films whose aim will be to demonstrate practical ways in which individuals and organisations can reduce their emissions of green house gasses.  I'm a freelance filmmaker and I'm planning to distribute and publicise the videos on the Internet.  At least to start with, I will make the films on my own money.  I'm planning to call the series of films &quot;After Carbon&quot; (unless anyone can think of a better name before I start making the films!)  I'd like the films to be as detailed and practical as possible (shows like &quot;It's Not Easy Being Green&quot; are great but they are short of practical detail).  My plan is to use plenty of diagrams and graphics to illustrate the engineering shown in each film.<br /><br />What I really need are projects to film!  I will do my best to stay out of the way of the work-in-progress and the films shouldn't intrude too much on your privacy - I'm keen to focus mostly on the *installation* rather than on the *installers* or owners!  And, of course, I'll send you a copy of the film to &quot;OK&quot; before I publish it.  In terms of subject matter, I'd like to cover the broadest possible spectrum of issues - from solar hot water heating systems, to the use of alternatives to concrete, to wood-chip burning CHP systems for office towers etc.  In terms of location, I'm based in South East London so the closer the better - I'd say a 3 hour drive is probably the maximum distance I can travel (not least because of the hypocrisy of making a film about limiting CO2 emissions by driving a petrol-powered car around with all my equipment!)<br /><br />Please contact me either by replying to this thread (especially if you have questions which you think other people would be interested in) or using the contact form on my website:<br /><br />http://jack-kelly.com/contact<br /><br />Thanks loads,<br />Jack]]>
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		<title>Domestic Energy Assesor</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=285</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2007 10:23:35 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ashleymschrader</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Please could somebody help me, I am due to take the energy assesors course in one weeks time and I do not have a great deal of experience please could anybody let me know if they have taken the course, some tips on what to do and what to read up on. Thanks. Ashley]]>
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		<title>Book Recommendation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=298</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 09:40:32 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>MrT</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm looking  for a good book dealing with the details of building construction. I've got a couple out of the library which are aimed at building surveyors and architects which wilst ok don't provide much on eco construction.<br />Much of the eco books, I've got EcoHouse2 and the whole House Book both of which are great, do not go into<br />details about construction.<br /><br />Anyone recommend a book which they use as a reference for building construction techniques which can be a<br />source of information for both professionals and laymen.]]>
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		<title>An examination into the current state of the existing housing stock</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=296</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2007 14:38:30 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Michael_T</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[My name is Michael and I am currently in my fourth year at studying Building Surveying. At the moment i am working on my dissertation, the topic is 'Sustainable Development: An examination into the current state of the existing housing stock and the role of existing buildings in the sustainability agenda.' <br /><br />I have also been studying data and research carried out by several institutions, including the Sustainable Development Commission and the ECI, to investigate whether improvements to the building fabric would lead to significant long term improvements in relation to a buildings energy performance. <br /><br />I have made up a short questionnaire and would appreciate anyone in the know to take a couple of minutes of their time to fill it out.<br /><br />http://www.smart-survey.co.uk/v.asp?i=1903xdpwo<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Michael.]]>
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		<title>Standby socket circuit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=277</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 11 May 2007 21:34:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>pyrogaz</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We had a couple of friends visit recently and whilst chatting got onto the subject of reducing electricity consumption, at which point I showed them what we have done on the house we are currently building, which we also did on our previous build. They reckoned it was an excellent idea so I thought I would share it!<br /><br />Like many other folk we try to be conscientious about fully turning off appliances that have a standby function when turning in for the night, but the nature of these sort of devices means you're usually crawling under desks, fighting through a tangle of cables, and wondering if you're going to accidentally unplug the alarm clock and have to spend ten minutes resetting it. Our solution was to duplicate the socket circuits, one is generally used for devices with a standby mode and its twin for &quot;normal&quot; devices and those which we don't wish to turn off; the standby circuit has a master switch installed in our bedroom so last thing at night simply flick the switch and 4 TV's, 4 Freeview boxes, 5 PC's, 3 printers, 1 server, 3 DVD's, 2 VCR's, 1 microwave, 3 Hifi systems and numerous other devices are completely shut down. I should mention that we never use the VCR for recording so not a problem that they lose their clock settings overnight, and the DVD recorders are a bit more clever and don't lose their settings, so I'm not a masochist!<br /><br />It might seem overkill to install extra circuits but the cost was just under Â£140, yes we have a lot of sockets, and we have little red dots stuck on those on the &quot;standby circuit&quot; to indentify them; but a quick check with a meter showed that we were drawing over 400 watts prior to switching off at night. Even if the circuit is only off for 6 hours each night it equates to about Â£85 per year, add in a couple of weeks holiday and you're knocking on the door of Â£100, so the pay back is very short.]]>
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		<title>Help dug below the (mud) footings</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=295</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2007 12:39:40 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>steve mac</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I am currently renovating a 1847 French stone farm house.At Easter I dug out the internal floor (2.5 m X2.5 m) to asingle story out house attatched to the main house.My intention is to lay a slab, dpc, metal the floor, insulate and lay a 70 mm concrete floor. However, The stone walls are laid directly on mud ( no suprise there) which I have obviously exposed by 25 cm.<br />My question is do I continue with my plans or do I gently ( 1 metre at a time) remove the mud footings by half the thickness of the 600 mm wall and back fill with concreate .<br />All advise and comments will be greatly received.<br /><br />Steve Mac.]]>
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		<title>12v Supply</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=138</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Mar 2007 20:18:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have been tinking for some time if it is worth running a 12v supply around the house? So many devices now seem to use 12v for charging or low voltage lighting. I believe PV Solare Panels tend to run as 12v and then use an invertor?<br /><br />So what would be the benefits / disadvantages?<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>sedum roof</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=292</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2007 19:32:59 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rachel</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[On the old forum, I remember someone gave an address where to buy good, well priced sedum, for a roof. Can anyone remind me where it was? Many thanks]]>
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		<title>Are There Any Other Forums About Building?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=279</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 13 May 2007 10:33:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>EdF</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I hesitate to ask general building questions here as it's obviously intended for green building queries. Are there any other forums of a more general nature? I'm having to manage my own project and do some of the work after my builder did a runner with a staged payment and I need to ask a few questions. Thanks..]]>
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		<title>IPCC AR4</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=247</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2007 08:19:40 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>biffvernon</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[IPCC WG1 AR4 Final Report is now available for download. <br />http://ipcc-wg1.ucar.edu/wg1/wg1-report.html <br /><br />For best ongoing analysis see RealClimate<br />http://www.realclimate.org/]]>
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		<title>Warm lead roof</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=278</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 11 May 2007 23:34:06 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Spike</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I will shortly be replacing a lead flat roof.  Is it possible (or desirable?) to do this incorporating a warm roof design - say 100mm of Pavatherm under the lead?]]>
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		<title>Lime mortar plaster</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=275</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2007 21:13:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Joatex</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Which sand is best for lime mortar plaster, builders,sharp, silver ?  And is reinforcing, i.e.horse hair or fibre glass or whatever essential ?   The paster in to be appied both inside and out. Finally the ratio of lime moratr to sand ? Many thanks]]>
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		<title>Rammed earth construction</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=252</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2007 09:52:55 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>AT</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Can anyone advise on the process of Rammed earth construction and its pro's and con's?]]>
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		<title>Government policy</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=263</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 07 May 2007 18:55:31 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>SimpleE</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Do the current people in power or those in waiting really have a grasp on reality ?<br />Zero stamp duty on carbon neutral homes - thats not going to cost very much is it !<br />No grants available because they are restructuring !<br />Biofuel will harm the planet.<br />Whats going on ? While I am more than happy to do my bit to combat CO2 emmissions I feel the increasing tax burden is just that and in no way reflects any 'green' credentials and just what are they spending the money raised on ?<br />Your thoughts please.]]>
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		<title>Barriers to implementing sustainability issues</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=264</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 08 May 2007 00:31:29 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>jacky1011</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi, I am a final year QS student doing dissertation based on topic â€˜  barriers for implement ting sustainability into real world practicesâ€™  the main research aims is to prove that cost is the main constraints  and why? <br /><br />Sustainability has become a popular issues, the government recognize  its importance to create a better quality for life. Therefore various  actions plans and strategies were develop in order to implement  sustainability into real world practices. <br /><br />Such as the sustainable code, sustainable procurement strategy etc <br />But does these plans successful? If not, what are the problems? What  stops sustainability to be implemented ? <br /><br />I would be appreciate if all of you take part in this discussion as I  would hope to gain as many information as possible in a very short  time due to time constraints. <br /><br />I develope a questionnaire to be distribute. Who is interest to fill  in please contact me and i will email to you. <br />JacquelineJoo797@hotmail.com <br /><br />Million thanks for all who are willing to help me.]]>
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		<title>Ideas on prevention of mould on cement screeded walls</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=243</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:06:52 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Joatex</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Which treatment will reduce or prevent mould on cement screeded walls<br /><br />Mould is forming on the inner walls of a bathroom and a room adjacent a stone walled barn located in southern France. The barn walls are stone and approximate 2.5 feet thick but the bathroom and adjacent room have been formed from a larger room and a section of the outer original wall replaced with a 6 inch concrete block wall and windows. The exterior and interior finish over the concrete blocks is a portland cement screed  No DPC was added under the new concrete blocks. Before the changes to the room there was no evidence of mould on the walls or on the adjacent floor<br /><br />The tiled roof is sound as is the guttering. The terrain is largely sand and drainage should not be problem.<br /><br />No natural or forced ventilation has been added. The barn living accommodation is occupied for a short time only in the summer, otherwise closed but the door to the rooms mentioned remains open. The absence of mould on the exterior surfaces of the concrete blocks suggest that the natural ventilation of an outer surface prevents mould growth<br /><br />The problem is growth of mould on the inner cement screeded walls. In addition there is mould on that area of the room floor close to the outer wall. The bathroom floor has been remade with a DPC under a concrete floor and is 2 inches higher than the adjacent room, no mould on the floor but a little behind the loo.  <br /><br />The question is that of treatment.<br /><br />Ventilation by air bricks would seem to be the first step but would only overcome the presumed higher RH of the two rooms  Further ventilation by a fan may be necessary but for 50 weeks the barn is empty and energy expended to reduce mould would be out of proportion to the gain.<br /><br />If the cement screed was removed from the concrete blocks and replaced with a lime mortar plaster and skimmed with lime mortar/silver sand would that allow the damp in the concrete blocks to be dissipated leaving the plastered surfaces dry enough to avoid mould ? Or would it be necessary to remove the concrete blocks and replace with original stone then face both sides with lime mortar screed ? <br /><br />If it was just a matter of ventilation what type could reach a satisfactory surface moisture level ?<br /><br />Comments if you please]]>
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		<title>Tight fitting insulation in wall stud work</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=265</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 08 May 2007 10:50:54 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>mook</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm insulating an interior wall using the following method.  100mm timber studs with about 25/50mm gap to the lime plastered stone wall (timber studs arent fixed into the wall).  Between the studs are 75mm PUR boards.  I've done my best to friction fit these but there are some small (1-2mm gaps) in places.  Can I just stuff small amounts of rockwool in these to seal the gaps, or use duck tape or similar or will it not matter to leave small gaps?<br />Not sure how airtight I should be aiming for here?<br />The studs will be covered with foil backed plasterboard to provide a vapour barrier.  <br /><br />Also wondering what to do at window recesses these have wood panelling which slope towards the window (single glazed sash), not really enough room to insulate on top, but if its worthwhile I could maybe put some of that thin polystyrene backing on (warmcell?) then plasterboard over?  Or maybe cork tiles?<br /><br />I'm aware this isn't the 'greenest' solution but i'm hoping my efforts with insulating will reduce heating bills (its to be a cofeeshop/gallery)<br /><br />Thanks]]>
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		<title>Rafter or Joist Insulation if future ASHP to be housed in loft</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=254</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=254</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2007 13:17:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>moogaloo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I think I have said it all.  In the future I may add an Air Source Heat Pump to my Thermal Store to affectively replace the boiler.  I think the best location for this would be the loft, but I am also about to insulate and can't work out if if it would be best to insulate the floor or the roof itelf?  Maybe both!<br /><br />Any advice?]]>
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		<title>log burner/back boiler</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=255</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=255</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2007 13:27:36 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>portvalefanjosh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi all im new on here anyway here goes, im after a log burner/back boiler to heat my above ground swimming/paddling pool i know you can get them of ebay but they are about 400 quid for a new one. Im only after anything that works as it will only be on the back lawn, so if any of you could suggest anywhere to go and find one i would be gratefull or if you know where there is one that would be even better.The reason is because last year it took me 12 hrs to heat the pool using a 3kw pool heater and two kettles so i don,t want to go through that this year so i thought about piping a log burner with back burner to it instead of using all the elctric and time for myself.Anyway if you could help let us know thanks.]]>
		</description>
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		<title>Environmental Assessment Methods and Tools</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=206</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=206</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 18:18:43 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>archie</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi, I'm a Part III student looking into the various Environmental Assessment Methods and Tools that are available to us either to help develop our schemes or to rate the performance of finished buildings.  These might be systems such as BREEAM (Ecohomes etc.) and SAP but could also include software tools such as EcoTect.  There's plenty of info out there explaining what these methods are for and how they work, but I'm struggling to find feedback from people that actually use them on a day-to-day basis.  The floor is open!<br /><br />What are your experiences of these assessment methods?  Do you find them to be an invaluable element of the design process or are there shortcomings that leave you wondering if they are actually worthwhile?  Is the Government backing the most suitable methods?  What is the evidence that the buildings that perform well on these test are actually performing well in reality?  <br /><br />It would be excellent if anyone knows of any publications that have undertaken balanced but crtical analyses of these systems.<br /><br />Anything at all that springs to mind will be well received.  Many thanks!]]>
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		<title>Sustainable building specifications - misuse</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=248</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=248</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2007 19:35:43 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>AT</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[If building specifications are developed around sustainable ideas or innovated cutting edge technology what can be the resultant position for the architect in controlling and limiting his risk? What happens when these technologies are misunderstood or misused? <br />Could anyone share any advise or links, books,etc..<br />Does anyone know of articles or case studies of projects that could be used to discuss these ideas, or about projects where the technology have been misused and the architect then find themselves in hot water with misconduct charges flying around! <br />Any help would be greatly appreciated.]]>
		</description>
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		<title>PIR / PUR / Breather Membrane/ Cavity Advise</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=262</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=262</guid>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 May 2007 16:34:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>moogaloo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have been looking at the ecotherm, kingspan, celetex rigid board insulation for a pitched roof. trying not to loose too much height?<br /><br />I have 1930s 3 bed semi with a pitched roof tiled, felt and battened (do not want to reroof) and 100mm rafters.  I think it will be a between and under rafter style and will need some kind of cavity and perhaps a breather membrane.  But I don't actually know what I am talking about.<br /><br />How much cavity should I have?  Should I have breather membrane?  Should I consider multifoil in the mix (don't hit me)?  Are the required U value of 0.2 against the U Value of 0.16 of joist insulation for legitimate reasons or should I be shooting beyond 0.2?<br /><br />Help me please :cry:]]>
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