Sat, 17 Oct 2026 01:56:18 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18357 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18357 Wed, 01 Oct 2025 16:14:39 +0100 sgt_woulds
In other parts of the world, you can buy white EPDM to keep the summer temperatures down, but not in Blighty, so I had to use bog-standard black.

I've done everything I can to mitigate the summer heat on our 55m2 dormer flat roof (ventilated deck, woodfibre insulation, careful airtightness detailing), and whilst these have helped over summer, it could be better.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a reflective paint that works well on EPDM and is available in the UK?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18358 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18358 Thu, 02 Oct 2025 16:54:07 +0100 Rex
Leaving the house today and pressed the Set button on the Accenta Mini Gen 4 RKP, only to get an immediate beep, beep, beep from the external sounder. It was not the normal alarm sound, but certainly sound more like a warning noise.

Additionally, the red 'power' led on the RKP is flashing at around 10 second intervals. Unsetting the alarm, and the sounder beeping continues for around another 30 seconds.

Cannot find any reference to the issue in the manual but would appear to be power related. I will check the control panel fuses and the date of the back-up battery but of 'greater' concern is the back-up battery in the Reson 8 external sounder. It is a 6v Ni-Cad and has never been replaced in the 15 years since installation. (I only use the term 'greater' concern because that requires tallish ladder work to replace it.)

Presumably, the Ni-Cad should be replaced but the manual has no mention of a life expectancy.

Grateful for any thoughts or suggestion as to any other possible causes.

Thanks and toodle pip

Rex

PS. I have an mp4 and m4a sound files of this warning beep but am unable to attach. Does the forum not allow such attachments?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18343 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18343 Sun, 07 Sep 2025 19:17:46 +0100 tony
It might need topping up. But in my view it is an unsustainable action to remove and presumably dispose of insulation.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18354 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18354 Sun, 21 Sep 2025 09:23:13 +0100 chrisinbrighton
In the past ive used timber beads but found these are not good long term.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18320 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18320 Fri, 18 Jul 2025 22:35:41 +0100 Bryan_Rendall
This evening has involved building a 'climbing frame' (calling it a scaffold would be stretching it a bit...) up the roof and around the collector so I can get a right look at it and decide where to go next. Something definitely seems to be awry inside it as there are a couple of things that look like they are meant to be tubing / pipe clips, made of wire, loose and visible around the edge of the aluminium sheet with the selective coating on it. That sheet also seems to have slipped down a bit, as there is a gap at the top of the panel, where you can see by the sheet to the insulation behind it, and this gap is visible at the top, but not the bottom. And in one corner of the sheet, some of the selective coating has come off in what I guess must be flakes, revealing the aluminium underneath

As its an inroof install, deciding what to do next needs some careful consideration. Options;

• Reverse the installation process. This involves taking off the cemented on clay ridge tiles, about 3 rows of Welsh slate and then the top flashing / hood to get to the top pipe connection and brackets. This will be reasonably painful, as those top 3 rows of slates are cut into some unusual shapes to fit round the flashing, and being the last courses, will only likely have one full course, the rest being cut down ones, with a reasonable amount of "creative fixing". Once released, lower the complete panel to the ground for further investigation.


• Cut access holes in the top flashing / hood to gain enough access to disconnect the top pipe and brackets, then lower the complete panel to the ground. Saves disturbing ridge tiles and slates, but then a dilemma on how to rebuild the flashing on completion again. Its made of aluminium (alloy) sheet and has quite a complex set of folds and then folded / rolled seams. Trying to release it and getting it to bend up will likely just result in creases all over the place. Cutting access holes will probably keep it flatter as a base for a subsequent repair.
  That could be done with lead, suitably patination oiled, but difficult to beat into shape if its over aluminium.
  Else get some more of that brown coloured sheet and make a panel that covers the whole existing flashing, holes and all


• Try and split the panel up there - Lift off the glass and frame, and do the investigation in situ. Tricky as there is no obvious and accessible fixings that hold the glass frame onto the body of the panel. There is also the fun then of handling the glass and frame on a pitched roof, and finding somewhere to set it so that it remains put and doesn't get broken.


• Take the glass only out of the frame in situ, after popping out the bead seal that is holding it in. In theory, this is straightforward, as 100% of that seal is accessible without disturbing anything. However, there is then the fun of handling a large sheet of glass on a pitched roof, with no frame to protect it. Chances of breakage probably about 1000%!

I think I am leaning more towards option 2 - Cut access holes in the existing flashing - then get a sheet of aluminium flashing material and cut a piece that can still slip under the slates above, and be suitably fixed to the existing flashing, but in a way that can be readily removed again in the future. That then becomes a full panel down to the ground job, which is slightly challenging given the 6 Velux windows in a bank of 2 x 3 underneath it. But the panel went up after the windows went in, so I just need to reverse that process. My 'climbing frame' already involves 2 x 6m long lengths of 6 x 2 up the sides of the panel / Veluxes, so these can act as a railway track to slide the panel down on.

Another scorching hot day today here in Orkney, and the store temperature is still sitting at just 52 degrees. So something needs to be done! :cry:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18353 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18353 Sun, 21 Sep 2025 09:15:22 +0100 chrisinbrighton My idea is to get the walls back to brick,then build stud wall with 75mm Kooltherm,then polythene,then plasterboard. I would leave a small airgap between the kooltherm and brick and have vent holes going into the unused chimney stack.
Research ive done suggests going down the breathable route for old bulidings but im not sure ill get a good enough insulation value.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18339 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18339 Sat, 30 Aug 2025 10:01:24 +0100 rsk1
https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/suspended-timber-floor-insulation-installation-underneath

Using orcon f to seal intello plus membrane to rough joists. I don't have enough to finish the job and don't have time to order more so looking for an alternative i can pick up from screwfix. A flexible acrylic sealant seems a not very demanding application. Would any old frame sealant do? Eg:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-490-frame-sealant-white-310ml/754ru]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18346 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18346 Wed, 10 Sep 2025 19:28:46 +0100 Rex https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18340 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18340 Sat, 30 Aug 2025 14:37:56 +0100 Rex
I have two units with three 10W (900 lumens) LED E27 bulbs in each, pointing at the sloping ceiling to reflect light into the bathroom. The original purchase was a pack of six with the standard LED lifespan for the rest of my life.

Of course, one has failed!!! And trying to buy a replacement is confusing. The bathroom is bright with only five bulbs at the moment, but the current empty hole or one bulb not matching is visually, rinky-dinky.

I either buy another pack of six (but don't need five extra) or a pair. The 10W replacements have a lumen value of generally around 1055, while 9W bulbs are around 805 lumens.

But will either 1055 (10W) or 805 (9W) lumens but noticeably different?

I would of course, like them all to be the same brightness.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18336 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18336 Sun, 24 Aug 2025 18:10:18 +0100 Victorianeco
We aren't looking to make any structural alterations to the property other than a single storey extension at a later date.

Any tips or questions I should ask prior to the fill? Or anything we should be doing to ensure it's done to a high standard?

2/3 of the property has never been filled before, 1/3 is an extension and has cavity batts. Can I ensure that they 'top this up' ?

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18338 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18338 Wed, 27 Aug 2025 20:11:24 +0100 Victorianeco
We have straight plank Canadian Maple and also parquet which appears to be African Teak maybe.

I've got around 47m2 to restore....]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18330 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18330 Wed, 13 Aug 2025 16:09:08 +0100 englishjohn
We’re squaring off the house and replacing old single bricks extensions and had planned to use 215 mm blocks, with 200 mm of external insulation over the whole property. We are also currently having all the urea–formaldehyde wall insulation removed, as it had completely failed. This process has made us realise just how poor the house currently is for airtightness and insulation — the removal has allowed dust and insulation from the cavity to enter the house through every nook and cranny.

We’ve struggled to source 215 mm blocks. Because of this, we are now considering replicating the existing construction: maintaining the existing 70 mm cavity, extending with a cavity concrete block wall inside and out, refilling the cavity, and then externally insulating the property. One of our main goals is to improve comfort inside the home, as we have no intention of moving.

I was considering EPS beads for the cavity fill, but they seem difficult to source locally. The other options are PU foam or fibre. Has anyone got any up-to-date thoughts on these three options and which you would personally choose? PU foam sounds promising, assuming it’s installed correctly, as it should fully fill all of the cavities — though I assume the same could be said for the other products if they’re properly installed. I assume fibre is the cheapest and foam the most expensive.

We have also decided to remove the old uninsulated concrete floor, lay 300 mm of EPS, add UFH pipes, and pour a single 100 mm concrete floor in one go as the finished surface. Any suggestions on UFH pipe suppliers or designers would be welcome.

Finally, can anyone suggest a supplier for graphite EPS external wall insulation? How would you recommend fixing it? It seems common to use a mortar-based product, yet there also appear to be many foam-based products that could bond it to the wall before mechanical fixing such as CERESIT CT 84. Any thoughts on the best approach?

I will be using brick slips to some areas of the front of the property, which will need to be attached to the EPS. Does anyone have advice on the best method to do this so that they remain secure over time?

Please feel free to provide me with any other pointers, tips or advice they would like to share.

John]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4434 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4434 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 12:55:28 +0100 aa44
Anybody got any experience of this?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18337 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18337 Tue, 26 Aug 2025 11:31:02 +0100 fostertom https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18334 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18334 Mon, 18 Aug 2025 10:36:09 +0100 andyburlow@gmail.com I have reduced the design to 3m x 1.5m, from the architects original, boat sized addition, more on budget initially.

Now we have our builders looking at the plans, I have forwarded the specs of the rooflight to them and they have asked about weight and fitting, as they have no prior experience fitting this size

These units are 250Kg and fitting outside the M25 doesnt appear to be an option (we are in Gloucestershire)

Does anyone have any advice re fitting these units? The builders are understandably declining the offer to man handle to unit from the delivery lorry to the top of the roof

Is a crane required or can this be manouvered by many hands and a beam lifter?

I have seen a few YT videos where smaller units can be lifted into final position - but not 3m chunk of glass!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18329 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18329 Tue, 12 Aug 2025 16:33:28 +0100 Rex
I posted an earlier thread entitled Building in Japan, illustrated with some beautiful structural timber frame photos.

Well, here is another that I find amazing and disappointing that it is not available here in the UK.

In Japan, most building sites for houses and flats is tight with little space between neighbouring houses. So when scaffolding is needed, space is at a premium.

I saw this site, the scaffolding footprint is probably about 1 meter but it cantilevers out higher up to provide the working area. More importantly, no bolts or scaffolding clips. Everything just slots and clips together like a tubular Lego kit.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18331 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18331 Wed, 13 Aug 2025 23:16:48 +0100 Jeff B 2025
We recently had a silly quote from a specialist company to replace the glass roof with a solid, insulated, version (with mock tiles/slates etc). The rep started at £15K and eventually go it down to £10K (I’ll ring the boss and see what I can do …etc) which was still way beyond our means.

I have been looking at numerous YouTube videos of folk who have used the EcoHome conservatory roof insulating kit:

https://www.ecohome-insulation.com/product/multifoil-insulation-conservatory-kits/

and I wonder if any of the GBF contributors have used this system or thought about using it, and what they think of it.

My immediate thoughts are:

1. How can you ensure an airtight seal around the ring beam above the windows? The videos never show close ups of this.
2. I can’t see how condensation can be avoided completely as outside air must surely be able to enter the space above the insulation via gaps in the ring beam.
3. Should I really believe that the multifoil is as effective an insulant as 50mm of Celotex?
4. Won’t the space above the insulation become incredibly hot during the summer and affect the double glazing in the roof?

Any thoughts welcome. Thanks.

Jeff]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18333 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18333 Fri, 15 Aug 2025 13:45:52 +0100 Rex
We have two balconies and each has the same tilt / sliding window. They are flush with the fixed window when closed, then pulled to open and a parallelogram mechanism brings them inwards to slide.

One has developed a loose fixing and although it works, when open, is not parallel with the fixed frame. The issue is that the rod, which is fitted into the casting (red arrow) now slides in and out of the casting. And I cannot see how it can be tightened. Looks to me that when made, the rod was inserted and the ribbing just crimped to lock the two together, but knowing that does not solve my problem as I cannot remove anything.

Epoxy will most likely not provide a permanent solution.

Any suggestions would be appreciated and / or a link to how this works.

Unfortunately, the Danish manufacturer of my windows went out of business X years ago so nothing available that I can find.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10206 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10206 Tue, 26 Feb 2013 14:10:55 +0000 Shevek
Has anyone done this themselves? What did you tank the EPS with?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18325 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18325 Tue, 29 Jul 2025 13:16:02 +0100 Rex
Have a bath mixer tap with the facility to press the button for the shower. Personally, I think that is is a clever but poor design, but what do I know?

Every couple of months, the shower either will not work or when the bath is turned on, both bath and shower supply water. The solution is to dismantle the shower button and generally, the culprit is the arrowed O ring which the 3 bar has dislodged.

After 15 years, perhaps I need a new O ring? Not a problem but ...............

When I have checked a couple of site, there are so many different types. Nitron, viton, EDPM, silicone, polymax, and more. My guess is that I need something pretty basic but what? Just plain vanilla rubber or EDPM?

Really grateful for any suggestions.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18317 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18317 Sun, 06 Jul 2025 10:49:09 +0100 Justin
My solar thermal limps from year to year, providing an ongoing combination of both spectacular performance and irritating servicing requirements.

(Broadly, despite no obvious leaks and no pressure losses, it seems that every year after very hot extreme cloudless days and lengthy stagnation, I get an air lock in the pump (yes, impossible without a leak?? - I'm always flummoxed). This pump is a Wilo solar type, non PWM, which has always been unable to shift it's own airlocks. (The pump station has a manual air trap valve which works but not for gas trapped in the pump). Once this occurs, it always needs a high-pressure service and some playing of the top and bottom service valves and pump power on/off to encourage the bubbles through. That's very annoying, but as it is.- Not my reason to be here. )

My reason here is to see if members have a recommended DIY drill-powered (hence speed controlled) pump, able to reach 2 bar (or close... 1.8 is adequate) and perhaps 20-30 litres/minute.

I find them fallible, the last one was a metal bodied Wolfcraft brand one. Like all the others it has a displaced rubber flap wheel internally. Last one got me through 4 years (four services) before packing up. When new it really could achieve almost 2.0 bar and got the fluid gushing round and air cleared very well. Satisfactory, but I now need to buy another and am looking at a dearth of known good alternatives which seem to have the quality or even published spec. Lots of plastic bodied garden-variety (literally) ones, - Ive tried a couple off these before and they didn't perform.

The Wolfcraft one I have used has worked, - despite awful online reviews by Others. Perhaps the devil you know..

What servicing DIY pump have people reliably and repeatedly used? I'd sooner not rent in a pumping "service station" due to getting it, the cost, and since my servicing is ad-hoc and seems to be every year. I'd sooner still DIY it.

Or perhaps it's time (16 years in) to ditch the solar thermal, servicing and smelly fluid in the loft, and fit a few extra PV panels. It appeals, but I have 2.3KWP under FIT which of course can't be directly added to. I do use a PV diverter also (turned on to assist the solar thermal only during the shoulder months and winter).]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18323 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18323 Sun, 27 Jul 2025 13:22:17 +0100 Rex
For the background, I have a 6000 liter rainwater tank with submersible pump to feed a gravity loft tank for toilet flushing. We also use it for car washing and garden. In the past, I have had to remove the pump for maintenance and one year ago, after 15 years of use, had to replace it. (bearings totally gone!!!)

The electrical connection is via a 13A plug inside the house with the cable running in some underground plastic piping; at the time of installation, the fitted cable was not sufficiently long so added a waterproof joiner (https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BRH65Z.html) pretty much like this but in black

A few days ago, following one month of non-use due to no rain, the tank was full and when turned on, the RCD flicked off. Few checks later and still flicking off.

Have opened the back of the pump and everything is totally dry, all the connectors are tight; cannot see anything wrong.

Did a continuity check on the length of the cable on the assumption that perhaps the joiner in the conduit was wet but that passed. However, decided to replace the entire underground cable with a single length, from the interior 13
A to the inspection chamber /access point. Will leave about 3 m of the original cable on the pump itself as the fittings are better than whatever I would create in replacing.

The plan for ease of future removal, have a connection inside the inspection chamber turret so that I can easily disconnect the pump without having the take the back off or pull the entire wiring through the conduit.

Which brings me to my question. It should be waterproof but will hopefully, never get wet. Easiest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-Rewireable-Waterproof-Outdoor-Inline-Orange/dp/B006X09WDW?th=1

Alternative is use the existing connector, or a new replacement, but it does not 'unplug' and needs to be dismantled to separate the two parts. (see the first tlc link above) However, the existing was slight 'dirty' and the interior screws and cable ends are blackened, only from oxidation / dirt, not electrical shorting.

Or a similar in-line waterproof plug/socket such as the Wago version: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKCJWB.html which again, does not 'unplug.'

Or finally, this which does seem to tick my 'plug-in' requirement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knightsbridge-Socket-Cable-Connector-3-Pole/dp/B076QH9VF4/ref=sr_1_16?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.lz4rODU_wJ_wnbDpJ_h4X1sfSKhG8Ly5y8tNXru7fFyoxHtTjF9E31bNMz4x93W5jh7r2-WnnFEIodhwfpbi9P2dFOg2W1NpJRPfNs45iosebjZUv7LPgGnVHXc70jnIVKO7Xrzcfd2GkieAIM5jif3_Mayflc4uzxa2JVogfI0WeoG5xO7yPK-yMxaSV3ShTbUwofwVh9XzABB3ozjp2m8wwzqVUapFOjALMP2dpwqmqCsaqDA1q3UO_NowQmbv6CYL53nJrRlo8Ne6kJr0oKTjC1qe5IC8v_oVPlr0XmA.ARQ0yeTu0PyTKoDVSoHD-pb9ZxLr3nXRzeenbp0pMGE&dib_tag=se&keywords=waterproof+connectors&qid=1753618364&sr=8-16

I'm sure any will do the job but would be grateful for your thoughts. Many thanks

Rex]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18313 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18313 Fri, 27 Jun 2025 12:12:43 +0100 Rex
SWMBO is quite certain that with climate change, we will b e overheating within the next few years. She has therefore made the executive decision that we must 'invest' in an air cooler. As a dutiful husband, I don't get a say in the matter!

What is your experience of the various coolers? Is Dyson worth the extra money in offering more than the others or is one just paying for the designer name?

Is there one that is highly recommended?

Many thanks

Rex]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272 Sat, 08 Mar 2025 16:44:22 +0000 owlman https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18318 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18318 Wed, 09 Jul 2025 18:01:11 +0100 ChrisGT https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18315 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18315 Thu, 03 Jul 2025 18:27:19 +0100 Sprocket
Last I heard GBF was looking likely to close down. What happened?
Fortunately I was through the worst of my previous build (roughly 2009-2013) before that happened but I had found the old forum really helpful and I missed it after.

Really pleased to have re-found it. I shall lurk a while and see how it looks these days.
I am now wondering who of the old-gang are still on here?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18312 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18312 Fri, 20 Jun 2025 11:46:37 +0100 Rex
The mains water incoming is of course, 32mm and around 6 bar. It goes via a PRV (reduced to 3 bar) to a water softener for both hot and cold. All the pipework is 22mm, reduced to 15 at the various taps and with the flexible tails and mixer taps, reduced again to around 10mm.

Cold water to the baths, showers and utility room is soft; to the kitchen sink and washbasins, it is mains hard (nicer taste!) Hot water is stored in a 300 litre cylinder and is piped to all outlets in 22mm (then 15 and again, the flexible tails, around 10mm.)

From the get-go, when one hw taps is running, a second has reduced pressure, but recently, there seems to have been a very noticeable change.

Open any hw tap and the flow is pretty good but within seconds, the pressure ;reduces and the flow is pretty much, a trickle. So much so that the pressure valve on the shower will not stay on the shower setting.

This is a video of what is happening; I don't understand why or how to fix it. The hw pressure/flow has never been great but it was OK, now it is tending towards unacceptable.

Grateful for you thoughts.

(PS I have tried to upload an mp4 video but don't think it is possible. Is it possible?)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18316 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18316 Fri, 04 Jul 2025 13:28:32 +0100 Victorianeco
We are thinking of making our own cheaper alternative. How can we test for nitrates within floor sample or salts?

The Protimeter kit uses 'chloride' tablets but I can't seem to find the makeup of these tablets or how I can make my own?

Any ideas for the above please?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18310 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18310 Wed, 18 Jun 2025 07:50:03 +0100 Rex
There was a big head-line X days / weeks ago, that the gov are going to impose a planning requirement that every new build has solar panels installed.

All well and good, and certainly will please the Chinese panel manufacturers.

But one of my soap-box topics is that new building regulations should be that every new build has at least 3000 liter (and even considerably larger) rainwater collection to be used for flushing the toilet. It is complete madness that all water supplied to all dwellings is treated to drinking quality, but a large majority is flushed down the toilet.

That same collected rainwater can be used to wash the car or water the plants. Instead, planning application tick the 'environmental' box by installed a couple of water butts at the bottom of a single down-pipe. We installed a 6000 liter tank and with the dry weather at the moment, it is surprising how quickly it is emptied.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18303 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18303 Sat, 14 Jun 2025 21:40:29 +0100 tony
Why so many bolts?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18311 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18311 Wed, 18 Jun 2025 11:07:38 +0100 Simon Still https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18309 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18309 Tue, 17 Jun 2025 15:49:35 +0100 RobinB https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18304 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18304 Sun, 15 Jun 2025 11:55:05 +0100 Nick Parsons
Anyway, more techy people than me (not difficult) say what we need is new or updated software (oh, and more members and contributors, please!)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18275 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18275 Tue, 18 Mar 2025 18:26:33 +0000 GBP-Keith
Thank you all for your support over the years, it is you, the users of the forum that have made this such a special and cherished resource. I wish you all the best for the future, I’ll give some gentle support to the team that are taking over and I’m hopeful that Tony Cowling, (thank you Tony) will stay on as a highly respected volunteer moderator and guru for going forward.

I’m sure in the next few days the new admin folk will introduce themselves to you and ask for your wisdom and kindness as they pick up the baton. I’ll be retaining my email address for the next few weeks but I’m certain I will be left in relative peace as you are all so good at what you do best without admin intervention but I feel happy that new blood has come along to bring things up to date with your help. I’ll encourage the new admin to carefully digest your comments on what is needed to go forward.
All the best, Keith.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14098 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14098 Mon, 07 Mar 2016 14:38:09 +0000 JSC
I did not think that this part of the build would be so fiddly, especially when there seem to be mfrs that give you 1yr warranty, but 10 years if fitted by them (for £200/window, of course!).

N.B I am looking at timber casement, so pretty simple, operationally/structurally.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18299 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18299 Thu, 05 Jun 2025 18:15:36 +0100 Rex
Although I have mains connected smoke / heat alarms fitted to the house, I decided to install a regular, battery operate one at a second high point; it is effective in the dressing room' with access to the bathroom, but is above a void to the f/f space below.

It has been there for over ten years, regularly tested and the battery replaced.

Last night, after having had a bath and five minutes in bed, the alarm activated for no reason. I replaced the battery this morning and again, just now, following my wife washing her hair, it has again, activated. the copy on the rear does state humidity of above 93% but that is certainly not the case.

What would be causing it to activate? Does it mean a replacement?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18301 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18301 Sun, 08 Jun 2025 11:14:39 +0100 mitchino
The floor will be insulated with rock wool suspended on weed fabric, air tight barrier on top & floorboards.

The void is ventilated. I'm thinking there's no need to reseal it?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18298 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18298 Wed, 28 May 2025 10:10:15 +0100 Rex
Have recently returned from a regular visit to Japan. While wandering around residential areas, I am always amazed at the quality of construction. Virtually all houses are timber frame, mainly of course, because bricks and earthquakes are not a happy mix!

When I had my house built, the poured foundations, most likely, tick the structure box, but they did look rough around the edges. In Japan, the foundations have virtually polished shuttering and the result, even though it is never seen, is flat and perfect. Quite amazing to see; and I can only assume that the rest of the construction follows a similar high standard.

All the timber is amazing; most is machined off-site but all fits together perfectly. None of the 'butt-joint and nail' that we get in the UK; everything is property jointed. The sole plates have pre-drilled holes that align with the foundation installed bolts.

Looking at any site seems that the builders actually care about what they are doing. Everything is clean and tidy with no excessive mess left laying around.

It is amazing.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18294 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18294 Sun, 11 May 2025 12:09:24 +0100 Rex
Trying to help an elder neighbour who has a non-working Eurolock.

The lock is probably a 30/30, set into an aluminium sliding patio door; unfortunately the door is locked and the two keys has has will not turn. I assume the cam on the lock actives a lever that locks/unlock the lever that engages with the frame.

I have watched a number of videos on removing a Eurolock by breaking it, but all the vids are for a door that has a bezel around the handle so there is plenty of lock to grip. In this case, the lock protrudes either side of the ali frame by only around 5 mm, so nothing to grip.

The other option is to drill it out, but where does one drill? Into the key slot or below, into the pins? Then what, since I would need access to the cam to swing it into the open position.

Grateful for any thoughts.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18297 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18297 Sun, 25 May 2025 10:16:59 +0100 Rex
When designing a house, roof lights seem like a good idea. X year down the line, they do let in the light, but cleaning and any maintenance are a major issue.

Have some roof lights on the front and the back; of course they are over a void making access challenging. The front one, I can get to with a ladder on the interior balcony, but the rear,(as in the photo) not so easy.

Have an annoying small leak that I believe is due to the construction of the window and how it is attached to the frame. Have a similar issue with one at the front, and have more or less resolved it. Guessing the same with the rear.

SWMBO says to get a roofing guy in but he will not repair anything as the issue is not the roof. Additionally, I don't trust them to do want I want and I'm sure they will find something much bigger (that does not exist) to repair. When last asking for a quote to do some basic cleaning, they all wanted scaffolding, which was going to cost more than the job I wanted doing.

So my question is, what is the best way to get access to this window? My guess is a tower, and a neighbour would loan me his, but that only has a working height of around 2.5m.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18284 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18284 Mon, 14 Apr 2025 16:13:57 +0100 Rigmarole
I'm on the hunt for some high-performance bifold windows for our build. I'm particularly interested in options that offer secure ventilation for cross-ventilation, like a tilt-turn section, top-hung section, or any other innovative solution that allows for ventilation without fully opening the windows.

This window is for a dormer in a warm roof. The build is mostly completed but still in progress, featuring 200mm of external insulation (including dormers) and 150mm of internal Rockwool, achieving a a U-value of around 0.096 W/(m²K). I'm aiming for high-performance windows, but I'm open to some compromise for added functionality.

I've been meaning to share the progress of our build here, as I've used a lot of ideas and solutions from the greenbuildingforum (and come up with some of my own, for better or worse), and I will do so once time allows! This forum has been a valuable resource.

Here's what I've looked into so far regarding window manufacturers:

Solarlux Highline: They seem quite pricey and haven’t been provided with any drawings despite a lot of time passing, but they assure me they can configure a tilt-turn on one side of the bifold setup. Contact has unfortunately gone quiet after I questioned their “time limited price” option (didn’t want the added pressure). U-value > 0.8 W/(m²K).

Alumil Smartia MF65: They say they can do a similar setup to Solarlux, but unfortunately, communication with their reseller has been an issue following the first quote, despite being initially very helpful. U-value = 1.1 W/(m²K).

Lacuna: I've just recently been in (indirect) contact with them after feeling like I’ve exhausted the above options. They seem to offer this solution—see this promising video: Lacuna Video >>> https://youtu.be/NX1yDLQYQgo?si=5tUMo1wrid9BDKtl&t=34

U-values seem to range from of 0.6 W/(m²K) to 0.85 W/(m²K), but not sure where suggestion will fall.

Sunflex: Their SF75 Triple Glazed 3+1 can be vented, which is great, but the venting is achieved by "shunting" the windows out slightly. Good, but I would have preferred a tilt-turn section for maximum ventilation when needed. U-value = 0.8 W/(m²K).

If anyone has any more suggestions to explore, that’d be great. Architecturally, the view from the dormer window is very much a "picture window," so a bifold feels like the best way to achieve the best blend of inside/outside experience…but they’re proving difficult!

Thank you!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18161 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18161 Sun, 14 Jul 2024 08:37:05 +0100 Victorianeco
It appears to be a mix of intertwined plants:

Holly
Ivy
cotoneaster salicifolius
Brambles
Rose
Amongst others

Now I appreciate the wildlife factor, but we want to level it and grow plants of our own choice; cherry laurel or similar.

It's simply overgrown and blocking sunlight.

Any tips for removing it all? Some of the trunks are at least 4" thick in areas

All material will be shredded and composted for use in the garden]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18286 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18286 Tue, 15 Apr 2025 10:53:11 +0100 Rex
When we built the house 15 years ago, all kitchen bits and bobs where from Ikea. Including the under cabinet lights, which are mini-flourescent strip lights. All had been OK until a few years ago, when one decided not to function. I bought a pair of replacement tubes (good to have a spare!!) only to find the replacement the faulty one, did nothing at all.

Before replacing everything with LED, which would be quite a job as the wiring is somewhat recessed behind cabinets, I had a look at the circuit board for an obvious fault. Everything looks fine but decided for the sake of one of Chinese finest, to replace the capacitor (the photo is the original, which I feel is OK, but...)

The replacement worked and the light now comes on, but..... Within about 5-10 mins, it goes out again and while the unit is still warm, will not restart (power off then on again.) When cold, it does start for the 5-10 mins.

Not being an electronic expert, what could be the fault that causes it to fail. A bad solder joint? Something else like another capacitor that when full, does whatever?

The other three units in the chain have never had any problem.

Thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18287 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18287 Fri, 18 Apr 2025 09:01:11 +0100 fostertom
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2025/apr/18/map-residential-wood-burning-england-wales
https://storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/9231a18627b94b3a80e4f33fb3b4a9fd

Could spend a week mastering the various interesting ways the data is presented. Some here on GBF no doubt will - their usually insightful analysis is awaited.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18293 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18293 Thu, 08 May 2025 10:06:17 +0100 Simon Still
This is a shame. Their model seemed good - rather than having your own small/inefficient local generation, invest in a share of a wind/solar facility owned by a coop and get a credit against your utility bill.

Existing coops look like they'll be fine but the one that they were currently raising money for (which I'd bought into) is in limbo. They'd not agreed the site purchase (it was bought by someone else) and the funds people had paid to join (which surely should have been in a ring fenced account) remain unaccounted for (no information to the people who'd applied, no information to the coop board).

A small (and stated) amount of the 'purchase' was to cover Ripple expenses of setting up the scheme and managing the build, but the majority was for a share of ownership of the wind farm. That should have been returned when the purchase fell through.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18290 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18290 Sun, 27 Apr 2025 20:33:19 +0100 owlman This type of thing, there are others:-

https://egesolutionsltd.co.uk/eco-max/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18265 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18265 Mon, 24 Feb 2025 21:31:13 +0000 Artiglio
Having been inundated over the years about he wonders of smart meters by the gov/press/suppliers, I was amazed to learn that British gas only store readings on a monthly basis to suit the billing date or when the name on account changes.
I’m a landlord and a tenant moved out , but gave incorrect dates to british gas who then charged me for the wrong period, in preparing the bill they had collected a reading based on the date the leaving tenant gave, but then had to estimate useage for the new energy costs on January the 1st, quite why they can’t collect a meter reading on what is a known date is beyond me. Applied to both gas and electric.

Similarly , the water company sent me a bill titled “your metred assessed bill” for a property with no meter.

How much do these companies make from people who trust them and pay the bills without checking? ( on the assumption that such practices wouldn’t exist if it meant they lost money)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18285 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18285 Tue, 15 Apr 2025 08:18:52 +0100 Rex
Wanted sliding windows as access to two balconies and decided to go with the 'van' style pop-out, flush fitting that the manufacturer of all the windows provided. They have a tilt for ventilation function, or pull inwards to van-style, slide.

Although the inner frame is wood, the outer is aluminium. It has a flat area to meet the rubber seal on the window.

Obviously, during the winter months, the windows are closed and when the time comes to open, it is virtually impossible.

I have found that the rubber seal where compressed against the flat ali, kinda bio-degrades and sticks itself to the ali. The ali part is factory gloss but with 15 years of degrading rubber, now has a rough texture, that does clean off with some elbow grease. The rubber itself is still in good condition, not falling apart nor sticky, but that contact area, is pitted.

Unfortunately, the company is now out of business, so buying a replacement seal is not possible.

I am wondering what I can apply to the rubber to prevent this sticking? A smear of silicone grease seems like an idea but ...................?

The yellow arrow show the residue on the ali frame, the red arrow shows the rubber seal itself.

Any though would be appreciated.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18280 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18280 Tue, 01 Apr 2025 21:07:41 +0100 tony
Best practice suggests flow into rads should be top and return should be at bottom. (Opposite ends if length more than 4x height)

So that means TRV's on top and standard lockshield on bottom. Would you even use TRV's on rads or only in bedrooms?

Secondly to avoid surface mounted pipes, I intended chasing all 'tails' and using transition pipes to come out of the walls. Is there an easier way to do this minimising joints or any tips? We intend to use 25 and 16mm PEX pipe as suggested by ASHP company

Ceilings currently down

Thinking of:
1. Chase downstairs rads fed form above
2. Updatoirs rads perhaps going UK conventional and just have tails straight up from floor?

Thoughts?"]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18279 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18279 Thu, 27 Mar 2025 17:42:28 +0000 fostertom