Sun, 18 Oct 2026 04:51:35 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18113 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18113 Sun, 31 Mar 2024 18:28:27 +0100 Rex
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-68702031]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18108 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18108 Sat, 23 Mar 2024 11:49:14 +0000 fostertom Sounds scammy! An easy-out for developers. Having destroyed biodiversity on their own site, as per normal, a payment to the council gets some wildflowers and hedges on a tiny (3.2ha) site, which is itself protected against development or agri-monoculture for a whole 30yrs!

"our mission to have a registered habitat bank in every local planning authority"
How can each authority's small habitat bank's biodiversity gain possibly match the cumulative loss, whether by %age or by acreage, on any number of developers' sites?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18106 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18106 Tue, 19 Mar 2024 07:42:12 +0000 chrisinbrighton https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18064 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18064 Fri, 12 Jan 2024 15:32:36 +0000 Pile-o-Stone
Does anyone want a big dumpy bag and a bit of glasapore insulation (the stuff that is recycled glass with air blown through it that looks like pumice stone) and some 5kg buckets of lime plaster, and maybe an electric cement mixer?

We are moving house and downsizing and I won't be doing major works, like I have here, ever again, so I just need someone to pick them up. I live near Rochdale. I can help move the stuff but the bag of insulation is heavy, so might need a few people to muscle it into a van.

Free to good home.

Cheers,
POS]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18105 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18105 Wed, 13 Mar 2024 18:54:05 +0000 tony
Currently I have a small commercial system that is turning the meter backwards, their energy company is threatening them with court action and charging an estimated bill for their likely underpayment.

I don’t think they can do that, it is the electric companies meter, they knew about the solar and FiTs

Any views or advice? Money was taken on a DD but clawed back by the organisation as it was way more than the meter (incorrectly) showed.

It is going to be fun to sort out and must have happened before.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18104 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18104 Sun, 10 Mar 2024 14:10:19 +0000 Rex
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-68518332

Not too sure about the caption reading 'collapse.' Using a ladder at the top of a tower looks like incompetence to me, Recipe for gravity to show who is the boss.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18103 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18103 Sun, 10 Mar 2024 11:05:26 +0000 Rex
In the greater scheme of things, many of my recent inquiries seem rather 'trivial.' So here is the next 'trivial' inquiry!!!

White gloss tiles around the bath with white grout. We use softened water for the bath and shower. However, even with regular cleaning and frequently using a window cleaning squeegee after showering, the lower tiles are looking 'tired.'

The grout is tending towards 'grubby' and the lower tiles have lost their gloss/sheen, with a sorta , minor grayish tinge. I have tried cleaning with baking soda and vinegar, thinners, Isopropyl alcohol, Brasso and specific tile / limescale cleaner but to no avail.

They no longer have that new clean look but appear tired.

Dr Google only tells me what I have already tried; is there anything else I could be doing?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18102 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18102 Fri, 08 Mar 2024 12:49:59 +0000 owlman https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18099 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18099 Wed, 06 Mar 2024 08:32:36 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/society/2024/mar/05/fears-of-new-uk-cladding-crisis-after-blaze-destroys-timber-frame-homes]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18100 Wed, 06 Mar 2024 12:23:35 +0000 lineweight
By "insulated" I mean one that when it's closed, provides some level of insulation, rather than some flappy bits of plastic that have no insulation value of any consequence (and no airtightness either).

As per trickle vents, we have to install these to keep BC happy (in rooms where it's not possible to add trickle vents to existing windows).

This is a renovation/retrofit, not newbuild.

Yes - I know the ideal approach would be to have some form of ventilation with heat recovery but the occupant would have to be persuaded that the cost is justified, and at the moment they are quite happy ventilating their house in the traditional manner, by opening a window a bit when they feel like it.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18098 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18098 Mon, 04 Mar 2024 19:27:51 +0000 Rex
Received the latest Lidl e-mail DIY section update. Apparently, I need a their Parkside App to get the most from their Smart Batteries and which I can charge via Wi-Fi.

Don't know how I have managed to survive by just charging my batteries until the light went green then using them.

Had no idea my life needed to be so connected.

Toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16096 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16096 Sat, 13 Apr 2019 00:14:53 +0100 wookey
I can put it in the windows sheet (and this door is a UPVC, mostly-glazed door so modelling it as a window is generally just fine), except that it goes into an unheated, but internal, area so it's not in an exterior wall, which all the other windows are. Or at least it is an exterior wall for the purpose of PHPP, but the outside temp is 'X', not 'A'. So I've currently put the door into it's own area with tempzone 'X' (which there is a space for already in 'areas').

This worked fine on PHPP 2007 (v1.0), but things have got more complicated by PHPP2015(v9.3) and entering an area element which is only in a group, but does not also refer to a selected item from the U-values sheet seems to be broken.

This seems like a common-enough circumstance - how does one normally deal with a 2nd external door? In this case into a lobby-type area.

I have more PHPP questions after messing with it for way too many hours, but this will do for now :-)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18095 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18095 Thu, 22 Feb 2024 20:15:38 +0000 Rex
Further to my thread of a few days ago:

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18088&page=1#Item_0

I live at the end of a private road and as a result, when going anywhere, pass every house. Consequently, what with the road association, various road parties and Neighbourhood Watch, I have a good nodding.chatting acquaintance with virtually everyone in the road.

One of the houses is currently undergoing EWI installation, and of course, I see the progress with my coming and going. The one thing I have not seen is any evidence of a cavity wall insulation contractor. Of course, the house may have had CWI many years ago before the current owners. Or it may have been installed so quickly that I did not see it. Alternatively, they may have been advised that they don't need it.

So my dilemma is, should I swing by for a neighbourly chat about EWI, with the possible suggestion that CWI is recommended, or just leave them to get on with it?

Your thoughts will be taken on-board.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18033 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18033 Wed, 22 Nov 2023 13:48:17 +0000 Rex
The land for my house has a fall of around3-4 meters, front to back over about 50 m. Rainwater from the roundabout in front tends to drain onto my land a prior to building, sort of 'flooded' the front garden.

During the build, I installed a sump on the verge and took a underground drainage to the woodland at the rear of the garden. Unfortunately, I did not take photographs. Although buried on my land, the actual outlet was on the surface in the woods so that water could drain out. But 1,2, 3, or 4 meters from my boundary? Beats me?

Nowadays, the water does drain away, and then the flooding starts again. I think the outlet in the woodland has become blocked with leaves, twigs and perhaps 'someone' has made a home there. I would like to find the outlet but uncertain where it is, and it is certainly now covered with brambles, fallen branches, etc.

My question is, what would be the best way to find the outlet without actually clearing everything and digging where I 'think' it may be?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18097 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18097 Sat, 24 Feb 2024 12:47:08 +0000 marktime
Construction was concrete block inner facade exterior covered with rockwool, a cavity then a sandwich of two plates of aluminium with 50 mm of synthetic material in between. No details of this material yet.

9 confirmed dead, one other unaccounted for.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18093 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18093 Tue, 20 Feb 2024 17:52:03 +0000 djh
https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1748-9326/ad0924/pdf]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18078 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18078 Wed, 31 Jan 2024 01:00:06 +0000 just_breathe
Just having a head scratch about how I’d tackle the cavity wall considerations.

So we obtained planning to add 100mm EWI to whole of the uninsulated walls of our property.

We are terraced so no brainer for main part and front of property which is solid stone, but the rear we’ve some complications as we’ve 2 old brick extensions 2 stories, then a modern single story flat roof off those two. So it’s what has become internal or is still an external wall for those.

1. First old extension is solid brick - no cavity so that will need to be EWI only.
2. Second old extension - we have cavities for these and most is now internal except for above the new flat roof - only about 4sqm as there’s a small bedroom window, and just a bit above a stairwell. Then we’ve a downstairs loo but there’s no external access to 2.5m wall as 100mm gap (can that be filled?) between us and neighbour all
Other loo wall is internal now but that’s less than 1m and has an old window . Upstairs above the loo is the small bedroom and its wall would be accessible above neighbours extension from outside, but bedroom has sloping ceiling and so it’s only about 1.8m height of wall to access by 2.5m

In the loft there is some access to the top of the cavities.

So in the areas with difficult access it is possible to just knock a few bricks out here and there for internal access and sort it all that way given the small areas if need to fill and if so what is best material? I’m pretty sure I’m best to fill cavities that are now internal walls?

Or is it still best to get a professional company in?

I’m trying to make it all work in order in my head and if I know I can sort either myself or otherwise with remediation from inside, then I can proceed with EWI across whole of rear second storey.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18087 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18087 Tue, 13 Feb 2024 09:55:51 +0000 tony
If the burglar is already in the house I can’t see any point and if outside what difference is there between a locking handle and one that doesn’t lock?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18096 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18096 Fri, 23 Feb 2024 09:36:31 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/feb/23/botanical-gardens-most-effective-green-space-at-cooling-streets-in-heatwaves]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18092 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18092 Tue, 20 Feb 2024 09:45:33 +0000 fostertom
This is an issue that's been discussed with some heat, on GBF. One that's been in local news, for me here on Dartmoor. A dilemma that for instance Monbiot explored with great but divided sympathy in his book Feral. Seems to me insoluble without harm to someone.

But fact is, for instance Dartmoor, far from its National Park statutory mission "To conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the area" is in fact a monoculture ecological desert, like most of British uplands, due to centuries of ever-intensifying upland farming. Namely, far too many sheep, which eat every glimmer of 'natural' vegetation before it starts. A whole rich traditional way of life is built on this.

Defra's analysis merely exposed the obvious. Some experience shows that an alternative economy, with better incomes and employing more people, can be developed, which allows uplands to regenerate - but it won't be 'farming'.

Discuss.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18094 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18094 Wed, 21 Feb 2024 09:24:37 +0000 cjard
The foam produced by the latter is fantastic, far better in terms of structure and fill than regular expanding foam, but it's a bit intense to use; you typically do all your prep and then do the foaming in one go because the nozzle is essentially ruined 10 minutes after you stop using it.
i've an application that would be better done as a bit more of a stop-start affair - i really want 2 part performance for but I don't want to mess around with the liquid variant, nor do I really want to use a 2 part cylinder kit..

However, I see a few kits from brands like Penosil for what appears to be a foam spray like what a 2 part system would emit, but in a single 750ml can format like regular expanding foam. The shiny ad brochures and pictures make it look like a 2 part system result, in that the foam is depicted as leaving the nozzle at high speed and fanning out but close inspection of the gun and cans don't draw any signifcant and obvious difference to the typical gun expanding foam I'm used to that is used at lower velocity with the gun nozzle "laying" the foam like a cream piping bag, rather than spraying the foam. The more I look at it the more it seems that this is just like regular expanding foam with a plastc clip on the nozzle end to fan out the spray, though perhaps the formulation in a Penosil can differs to that of a typical Soudal Soudafoam fan

Has anyone used these 750ml can kits and alo the 2 part gas cylinder kit? How do the two of them compare? What is the structure and adhesion of the finished foam result of a spray can?

The application is to fit kingspan insulation with small gaps and then spray foam to the back of the gap so it bonds to the wall and expands into the void, notionally turning the wall to a single sheet of kingspan. I would butt them up but the board edges are a bit misshapen in areas and I've had good experience with the 2 part system used in a similar way with gaps to spray the foam down, as it adheres to the wall, and seals all in one go]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18091 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18091 Tue, 20 Feb 2024 09:20:00 +0000 fostertom
"It is estimated that more than 2,000 spacecraft are likely to be launched annually in coming years, and the aluminium that they are likely to deposit in the upper atmosphere as they burn up on re-entry could soon pose major environmental problems.

Recent research carried out by scientists at the University of British Columbia, Canada, revealed that aluminium from re-entering satellites could cause serious depletion of the ozone layer which protects the Earth from the sun’s ultraviolet radiation and could also affect the amount of sunlight that travels through the atmosphere and reaches the ground.

However, this should not be a problem with satellites built of wood, like LignoSat, which, when it burns up as it re-enters the atmosphere after completing its mission, will produce only a fine spray of ­biodegradable ash."

So - conspiracy conspiracy - are all these mini-sats the backdoor way to 'solve' global heating by geo-engineering the atmosphere with light-reflecting particles?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18069 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18069 Tue, 16 Jan 2024 14:28:52 +0000 Artiglio
My mother is currently in the process of selling her rural home that has a 3 phase ( late father had workshops in outbuildings) they’d paid for the supply in the 90’s.
They then had 3 individual meters and were billed as 3 accounts/supplies. A query from a potential buyers solicitors is why don’t we have a 3 phase meter and so only have a single rather than 3 standing charges.
This is not something i have any clue of , could anyone advise what the normal arrangement would be?

TIA]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18027 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18027 Fri, 17 Nov 2023 22:36:42 +0000 blubb - One company offers to do a thorough job at reducing thermal bridges: going up to the rafters with the EWI which means redoing the soffit, insulating the 50mm wall bit around the window perimeter with 15mm thick PIR, insulating below the DPC.
- Another company is reluctant to do any of the above (it does not fit their standard programme). Their offer is however 7k cheaper.
I would appreciate some help with understanding how much "doing a proper job" at eliminating thermal bridges would really benefit the house insulation overall...
Opinions?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18085 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18085 Thu, 08 Feb 2024 14:28:52 +0000 tony
Tony recently found himself frustrated with downlighters when asked to help change a lightbulb at a friend’s house while collecting some tools for the library of things. As he removed the old bulb he was shocked at the draft that was coming out from the ceiling. It was almost like having a window open and it was just one of 16 downlights in that room.

It’s not difficult to draftproof downlighters if you do it before they are installed because it is possible to provide a box or enclosure to house them in. Sadly there is little or no possibility of doing that once they have been installed. In the past, with incandescent bulbs, downlights required careful handling due to the heat they generated. However, the advent of LED luminaries has made it easier to fit boxing over them without risking overheating.

Link https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/tackling-downlighter-draughts-a-simple-solution/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18067 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18067 Mon, 15 Jan 2024 14:36:02 +0000 Rex
Just asking because I am interested.

When a neighbour built their SIP house, they installed a treated timer patio decking at the back. Of course, all the decking is screwed to the under structure and looked good. But over the years, as with most externally used UK construction 'rubbish' timber, the unseen structure has rotted and as I write, they are having it all replaced.

My rhetorical question is, if installing timber decking, what is the best way to ensure that it lasts longer than 10-15 years? Or is it something that one has to bit the bullet and replace every X years?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18009 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18009 Tue, 31 Oct 2023 09:34:08 +0000 revor
https://www.pv-magazine.com/2023/10/30/cause-of-30-kwh-battery-explosion-in-germany-remains-unclear/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18080 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18080 Sat, 03 Feb 2024 10:39:45 +0000 djh https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 Fri, 06 Jul 2007 10:12:05 +0100 biffvernon
http://www.nsg-spacia.co.jp/spacia/summary.html]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18079 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18079 Thu, 01 Feb 2024 21:07:35 +0000 djh
I hadn't heard anything about this ban as far as I remember, and I'm surprised there hasn't been more publicity. I'll have to either buy some spare T5 tubes or think about how to replace the fittings.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18077 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18077 Mon, 29 Jan 2024 19:12:25 +0000 mattjcates This is my first post!
Re planned loft conversion. We live near a main road and I'm keen to incorporate some soundproofing in my plans for converting the loft. Current build is concrete tiles, non breathable felt and 100mm rafters with trusses.

I can't afford to replace the whole roof so will have to make do with a 50mm ventilation gap.

My architect has suggested extending the rafters to 150mm, then 100mm PIR between rafters 60mm PIR below rafters then airtight membrane (plan to install MVHR) then 25mm battens for service void.

Now I know that PIR is a poor sound insulator and mineral wool is better so I wondered about:

a) using some "rubber joist strips" between the existing rafters and the new rafter and
b) extending the rafters to 170mm (70mm happens to be the depth of the trusses which perhaps could be re-used if they can be screwed directly underneath the existing rafter) allowing 120mm PIR between then counter battens with 50mm (or more) mineral wool between. Then airtight membrane then acoustic plasterboard.

I thought the rubber strips might help decouple the outer timber from the inner structure (except for the screws). I can't afford a full noise isolation clip/furring channel system which would also take up more space.

I thought the counter battens could also serve as the service void given the mineral wool can be compressed.

I don't really know how much difference the above changes will make compared to the original plan but we have a lot of lorries going past and I'm keen to do everything I can to reduce the noise and am willing to lose a bit of thermal performance for this (cold spots at counter battens I know).

Regarding building regs I don't know how to do a proper u value calculation but adding the R values of the PIR and mineral wool seems to meet requirements (in England)

I would be grateful for anyone's thoughts or experience with anything similar.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18076 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18076 Sat, 27 Jan 2024 12:38:03 +0000 Pete23 Does anyone have any better ideas and/or recommends for loose fill insulation and best performing thin rigid insulation to go under the laminate floor?
Thanks!!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18061 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18061 Sat, 06 Jan 2024 16:37:36 +0000 Rex
My wife this afternoon, decided she would like to have a hot bath. Unfortunately the water was not terribly hot and I got some flak for not knowing how to boost the temp on a one-off basis.

I have searched the instruction book but cannot find anything as useful as 'Hot Water Boost.' Most of the instructions assume that I want to boost the pressure, not the temperature. I occasionally use, the 'Party' mode, which will heat the DHW first, before heating the house to the desired increased room temp. but this time, I do not want to heat the house.

Is there a simple way to just boost the hot water temperature and if so, how?

Many thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18074 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18074 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 11:05:33 +0000 bogal2
The plan I have is to:
Lift boards
fix 35mm woodfibre boards to underside of joists.
Fix and seal breathable windtightnesss membrane below.
Fill 180mm space between joists with steico zell loose fill wood fibre.
Airtightness membrane on top sealed to perimeter of room with tape.
Replace boards.

Grateful for any feedback.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18073 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18073 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:35:22 +0000 lineweight
Obviously they've decided it's not worth renewing but why? Is this Grenfell related or something else? I've yet to make detailed enquiries with other manufacturers but I wonder if I'm going to find that they are all making this decision.

The PIR/phenolic options are useful where you want to minimise the buildup thickness, of course.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18075 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18075 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 16:31:43 +0000 Artiglio This meant the supply from atmosphere was read as the exhaust from dwelling, in the cold spell this meant the unit saw the room as being below 5c and so shut unit down.
Before stripping unit down tech support diagnosed a faulty sensor , so i bought a sensor and patch kit. Once stripped down error became apparent. They also sent me a copy of the exploded parts diagram and circuit board connections that for some reason don’t appear in the supplied documentation.
Well over a day wasted , but they did say sorry.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18070 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18070 Fri, 19 Jan 2024 10:52:44 +0000 fostertom is a revelation in thinking, to me, alerted as so often by Guardian in
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/jan/13/human-behavioural-crisis-at-root-of-climate-breakdown-say-scientists

The climate crisis is shown as a mere symptom, amonst many, of a more fundamental "Human ‘behavioural crisis’"; and simply tacking symptoms e.g. technically decarbonising world energy is slow, expensive and futile, when the 'behaviour crisis' simply results in expansion which eats up any gains, and more - which despite CoP after CoP remains the case and shows no sign of reversing.

The 'behaviour crisis' is described as the deliberate, scientific and effective skills of the world Marketing industry in creating multiple appetites for unlimited consumption (and lots more babies) in world populations (alongside legitimate and necessary consumption increases for the world's poor majority). This science matured and kicked in post-WW2, exploiting latent human survival instincts to an extreme extent which now endangers survival, bigtime. This feels like a true and revelatory crystalisation of something I'm sure many of us have felt for a long time.

The papers authors include large representation from the Marketing industry, and therefore knows what it's talking about; so the proposed solution is that the poachers should turn gamekeepers - to divert their undoubted skills into persuading populations to consume no more than they need. Ha!

Another article responding to the paper
https://www.populationmedia.org/the-latest/why-does-the-earth-overshoot
invokes Femininism vs Patriarchy.

Behind even this crisis is of course the crisis that is Capitalism - but the paper doesn't mention that, presumably for fear of instant, ideological dismissal.

So where does this go from here?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18038 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18038 Sun, 26 Nov 2023 13:02:49 +0000 Victorianeco
Also any brands preferred? I'm looking to put a few of my team on a flat roofing course but as with most things they are 'product specific' to ensure warranties are met.

Would you also try to eliminate flat roofs where possible or do they serve a purpose?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18058 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18058 Mon, 01 Jan 2024 21:12:36 +0000 tony
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dmmf0medoxucygrgortvf/IMG_5262.heic?rlkey=yiykwoi02z6bra46cvat2xfgx&dl=0]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18065 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18065 Mon, 15 Jan 2024 11:57:23 +0000 dazdread
I am hoping to build an extension next year on the rear of my 1900 3 bed end of terrace. I will involve the demolition of a small kitchen extension and rebuilding on a slightly larger footprint, going up one level to extend my daughters "Box room" bedroom and hopefully another floor to provide an extra bedroom.

I had hoped that SIPs might be a suitable construction method, as a) relatively cheap b) speedy construction for a DIYer. I was then going to wrap the whole house in EMI. There is a party wall on the Kitchen extension to consider as well.

Any thoughts, signposting would be appreciated.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18054 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18054 Thu, 28 Dec 2023 21:58:03 +0000 Victorianeco
The house we have 'purchased' or in the process of is completely different being a 5 bedroom detached property of cavity wall construction overlooking the Bristol Channel.

We have a few things that will need doing (ie the whole house) and I'd like to pick all your brains before GBF is no more.

Link to some photos of the property:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11RqhhMeBvsiUnyTCB9q9tw3FefxZ9YaP?usp=drive_link

Our queries are as follows in no particular order:

Heating System
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11RqhhMeBvsiUnyTCB9q9tw3FefxZ9YaP
Standard gas boiler present - we would like an ASHP again and UFH is a must. The existing Ground floor make up is slab (assumed insulated) with a parquet top floor covering. I don't want to dig up the whole floor and insulate then 3" of screed etc. Does anyone have experience with the 25mm pre made trays that just get self levelled?. We understand the parquet would have to go if we want UFH
- Would you even use UFH or look at air-to-air systems? We're not really fans of air to air from our experience in my wifes 2 shops we much prefer the UFH
- Would electric UFH be a better system again and make use of solar and battery storage?

Single Storey Rear Extension (probably 4m x 10m)
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11RqhhMeBvsiUnyTCB9q9tw3FefxZ9YaP
- Would like bifold doors or slide and hide etc - recommended suppliers?
- What build would you go for? Block on flat with EWI and a pitched roof with veluxes?
- Flat roof with a lantern?
- Cavity wall?
- What slab would you go for? Or ground screws?
- Timber frame?

Thermal Envelope
- EPC suggests cavity wall insulation present (but no idea what type or how well installed)
- Assume EWI a good shout after the extension and windows are done? Or Before?

Solar Panels - South facing front elevation with both East and West facing pitches
- What is available as a grant these days if any?
- Worth getting integrated panels and renewing the roof at same time? Roof does appear in good order overall mind

Front Porch - Removal
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B-VpHGUqUlascnhMbsdKpxQxifg7WSUV/view?usp=sharing
- We're not really a fan of the front porch it just appears to be dead space
- How easy would it be to turn into a flat roof structure and extend to the existing balcony? Assume EPDM
- Or just remove and install one grand front door

Really excited to take this on as these houses don't come up often on the road they are on and is everything we feel we need in a house]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18062 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18062 Mon, 08 Jan 2024 13:06:17 +0000 Artiglio
https://www.bpiauctions.com/auctions/?utm_campaign=Solar%20Panels%202526&utm_source=email&utm_medium=EmailRegistrants&utm_term=EmailKatherine&utm_content=Solar%20Panels%202526#/auctions/4ba10ca1-4e48-4928-ac2e-15012b184e9a?lot_status=all]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18060 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18060 Sat, 06 Jan 2024 14:08:39 +0000 minisaurus
We have a Swedish wood-frame & panel house, from 1985, with half the ground floor under ground level and with concrete walls. 115m2 over 2 stories, a 6 year-old Bosch exhaust air heat pump 2kW, 20cm insulation in the loft, maybe 10-12cm in the wall.

I've calculated we use approx 3885 kWh/year for heating, for which we currently pay approx. 11p/kWh flat-rate, so circa £427/year for heating. Our electricity is (almost) 100% fossil free.

I've considered externally insulating the wooden walls, topping up loft insulation, even removing some of the windows, building porches round the three doors. I considered MVHR, but then I'd have to buy both MVHR and a different heat pump, so probably over £25k investment in this part of the world. But my conclusion is that none of these are economically viable, or CO2 helpfull.

Our electricity deal expires in a couple of years, and we almost certainly won't get 11p/kWh flat-rate, but even so I don't see any point in doing any upgrades.

I'm interested to know if others agree with my thinking, or maybe I've completely missed something?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17808 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17808 Sat, 08 Apr 2023 11:53:01 +0100 Rex
I have a Flexit (Helios?) L4X HVMR unit which I installed when I built my house, around 12 years ago. I change the filters regularly; it runs around 8 hours per day over three different time periods. The last period is the late evening and I press the central button on the control panel for a 30 min high speed boost to remove moist air from the bathroom.

It is connected to the UFH pipework so when the UFH is on, there is a bit of pre-heating of the incoming air.

Recently, too frequently, I seen the panel (image below) with the red warning LED (top) illuminated. According to the instructions, this is an overheating thermostat warning light when the unit starts. The solution is in the loft, (very inconvenient following a both!) press the 'Reset' button. Usually, I also unplug before resetting.

Back at the control panel, sometimes pressing the two temp buttons (left and right buttons) simultaneously is necessary, but the unit then starts and works fine.

There are only two thermostats that I am aware of; one on the supply side, after the unit to measure the air temp and one within the heat exchanger. I have cleaned both.

My problem is that I have no idea what overheating thermostat actually means, where to find it and how to cure the issue.

Grateful for some advice.

Many thanks and toodle pip

The photo show the panel in warning' mode. The left/right -/+ set the temp, which with both red lights on, is 20C as need to reset via this panel. The C light is sometime on and sometime not; don't really know what it is telling me!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18057 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18057 Mon, 01 Jan 2024 16:34:45 +0000 revor https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18056 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18056 Mon, 01 Jan 2024 15:26:38 +0000 Rex
I received regular updates from a web site called Quora; many of the questions and answers are very interesting.

Just come across this one; don't know how true is is but ...

Having read it, I did Google George Franklin and came up with many links and various interesting files.
https://www.newspapers.com/article/el-paso-times-george-c-franklin-nasa-en/132562132/

As more & more counties get more solar farms...here's some truth about solar farms. Note: the largest solar farms in Canada are in Alberta...

From a STEPHENVILLE resident, George Franklin:

I should start by telling you what bonafides I have for writing this. I am a retired aerospace engineer. A literal rocket scientist if you will. I worked on MX (Peacekeeper) Space Shuttle, Hubble, Brilliant Pebbles, PACOSS, Space Station, MMU, B2, the Sultan of Brunei's half billion dollar private 747 with crystal showers, gold sinks and 100 dollar a yard coiffed silk carpets. I designed a satphone installation on prince Jeffry's 757. I did all of the design work for the structure of Mark 1V propulsion module currently flying on at least 3 spacecraft that I know of. Some of the more exciting projects I have worked on are not shareable.
My personal projects include a spin fishing reel with a 4.5 inch spool which is entirely my own designed, machined and assembled. It has 2 features that are patentable. A unique true flat level wind and a unique line pickup mechanism. I am also am FAA certified glider pilot and FAI certified gold glider pilot. I fly both full scale and model sailplanes. I am Microsoft certified and ComTIA A+ certified.
Solar panels are at best about 20% efficient. They convert almost 0% of the UV light that hits them. None of the visible spectrum and only some of the IR spectrum. At the same time as they are absorbing light they are absorbing heat from the sun. This absorbed heat is radiated into the adjacent atmosphere. It should be obvious what happens next.
When air is warmed it rises. Even small differences in ordinary land surfaces are capable of creating powerful forces of weather like thunderstorms and tornadoes. These weather phenomena are initiated and reinforced by land features as they are blown downwind. It is all too obvious to me what will happen with the heat generated by an entire solar farm. Solar farms will become thunderstorm and tornado incubators and magnets.
Solar panels are dark and and they emit energy to the space above them when they are not being radiated. This is known as black-body radiation. Satellites flying in space use this phenomenon to cool internal components. If they didn't do this they would fry themselves.
So solar farms not only produce more heat in summer than the original land that they were installed on, but they also produce more cooling in winter, thus exacerbating weather extremes.
So I conclude with this. There is nothing green about green energy except the dirty money flowing into corrupt pockets.
There is no such thing as green energy. The science doesn't exist. The technology doesn't exist. The engineering doesn't exist. We are being pushed to save the planet with solutions that are worse than the problems.

Waddya think?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18052 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18052 Fri, 15 Dec 2023 10:37:24 +0000 Artiglio
As a result of some over enthusiastic estimating by the suppliers , my failure to check their properly and a few changes when it came to actual installation. I have 3 x 50m rolls of

Profi - air classic grey NW 75 radial ductin that is surplus to requirements along with 3 x 2 lengths of 125 mm round duct along with a few bits and pieces. If its of any interest to anyone drop me a line. £100 a roll or £250 for the 3.

Location is east kent, but i can strap it to a pallet for collection.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18017 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18017 Thu, 09 Nov 2023 22:02:15 +0000 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18048 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18048 Wed, 13 Dec 2023 21:37:06 +0000 huwrugby
Could I simply fill the interior end of the duct with insulation or better, seal over with cement mix?

On the exterior I would be able to access the vent but only able to seal the external block & not the inner without major excavation within the room. Am I better leaving the duct & vent externally open or somehow insulating the ducting without ending up with the ducting being open to the cavity.

I hope this forum may be able to offer some advice & suggestions.

Huw]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18035 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18035 Thu, 23 Nov 2023 07:17:25 +0000 Victorianeco
I have a few people interested and recent quotes from local MCS installers are quoting ~£13000 for supply and fit... leaving £5500 for the individuals to pay themselves....

I have my own VAT registered building maintenance company but just wondering if this is worth it?

What steps one would need to take? And I assume one would need to go on a supplier course or similar?

I could install heat pumps to my wife's 2 retail premises and my own commercial unit, and I have my own house to renovate once the purchase goes through]]>