Fri, 24 May 2013 01:22:14 +0100 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10605 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10605 Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:57:06 +0100 timinder
I'm seriously thinking of buying an old (foundations C15, upper parts variously added since, up until the 1940s, but all 1 brick thick solid walls) farmhouse which will need a complete new heating and DHW system installed.
The ground floor is arranged with all the rooms in a long line, running from a kitchen/diner of approx. 21m2 area through 3 other rooms of approx. 14m2 each. The whole house is about 3.5m 'thick' from front to back internally.
There's barn attached to the far end, and on one side some single-storey additions which serve as an outside store and a couple of side rooms. They are each of about 3m2 area.
There is secondary double glazing fitted to the windows and the roof has relatively recently been re-covered, with loft insulation and the inside of the felt sprayed with some kind of yellow foam.

The house is set in approx 2.5 acres of land, which has rather run wild, with plenty of trees and large bushes. There is also a small stream running across the property approx. 100m from the house.
The stream looks to have a speed of around walking pace, so 1.3m/s or around 3mph. It's about 5cm deep at the moment, and about 1m wide. There's about 60m or so running across the property.

Historically, the house has used a solid fuel boiler supplying a DHW cylinder and radiators in each room.
These have been supplemented by open fires in the two main living rooms.
The boiler is no longer working, and looks to be quite old anyway, so a complete new system will need to be installed.

I'm working to a fairly tight budget so I won't be able to take ALL of the measures available to save energy, but I'd like to do as much as I can.

My plan so far is as below, and I wold be very grateful if anyone could suggest anything better (probably!!) or less expensive, and also give some idea of the likely costs involved.

1) Find and seal as many gaps as possible! = £100
2) Insulate loft to current standards = £250
3) Excavate concrete floors and fit wet UFH, with tiles on top
Estimate cost for insulation, 4 zone system, cheap-ish floor tiles = £5000
4) Fit new heating and DHW system. Possibly utilise exisiting radiators on top floor, tied to UFH downstairs
Here's where I get a bit lost...
I'm not sure if the stream is up to supplying a Water source heat pump, or even how much it would cost to fit one?
I have ballpark figures for GSHP of between £8-12k. That's quite a variation, which end of that scale might I be at?
What sort of output am I likely to need? We're a family of 4, both adults working full time, 2 children under 5, also out weekdays.
Is it possible to have the heat recovery source so far from the house?
If I fit the above, will I need a booster for DHW?
Will there be times in winter when we can't keep warm or have a hot bath, and my wife will hit me over the head and wish we'd bought a “sensible” house?
5) I've also thought about ST, but the house runs slightly west of true E/W so might not be suitable for panels on the roof, and as it's so old, I'd rather not stress the roof too much if I can help it!
Don't really want to go for EWI, it's a character property.
IWI isn't really an option either, as if the rooms were much smaller, we wouldn't fit inside! (also, the internal walls are much thicker towards the bottom and there;s not a straight bit in the whole place...)
If you've got this far, thanks for bearing with me!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9951 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9951 Thu, 03 Jan 2013 17:32:02 +0000 ocean well i have been dropping in as a guest and reading lots of posts over the last few years whilst i have been renovating a very remote derelict cottage. forum information has been very helpful so thank you to posters.
I have used sheeps wool warm roof loads of tapes draftproofing tin roof with breathe menbrane wood stove with rads lime plaste and pointing 1 gable utilising hemplime plaster some recycled materials recently an aquatron and vfrb and hfrb all diyed. has been a learing curve and alot of work and still not finished life goes on.

I am justabout to start updating a 3 bed semicavity blokwork with brick north wall house with basement/crawlspace very drafty single glassed windows from the 70s and we have just had our first baby would like to seal and insulate this house asap and move in in the next 6 weeks with little money.
so from lime cottage too drafty blockwork new principlas problems and solutions.
so the mision is to try and update comfort levels heating costs with low vocs condensation and meterial costs fast without scuppering further work on house to make it better

mane jobes to be done include
insulate attic
insulate basement and crawl space
poss cavity fill or some iwi on priority walls
window install double glassing but probably not till end off summer.
build large deck raised about 2m with the hope of one day building a sun room ontop of it
change open fire with back boiler to stove ,pro not till end off summer
remove old carpets draft proof posible install vapor barrier and some sub floor as is all suspended floors with particle board if can leave the particle board would be cheeper but will see
ventilate all rooms there no vents
and other things im sure
:confused:

thanks in advance and if i can offer advice from my previous mistakes and success i will try
Happy new year

:bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10578 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10578 Wed, 24 Apr 2013 22:24:41 +0100 Griff
Just been looking at some structures with dome roofs. Anyone ever tried one of these, looking to use hemcrete.....

Some kind of former i suppose...but worried about structural integrity once thats been removed? What degree of curve is possible and what thickness does it need to be or even not be?

Griff]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10358 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10358 Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:19:54 +0000 Griff
We have a lovely 16th cent (not listed) house that we are saving bit by bit. Traditional or modern green materials throughout, biomass heating, lime wherever possible, super thinck insulation etc etc.

But I run a small company and I need a little office, just 3 or 4 by 4m (internal) on a tiny bit of sloping land we have. If I had £12k to spend and didn't care about the eco side I'd rush out and get some steel, glass and cedar thing and spend time just looking at the swankyness of it all. I'd love to use strawbale but the footprint is too big and my main worry is damp. Its wet here, did i mention that? Despite many people saying 'don't worry about damp, as long as you render properly it will be fine', I can't help thinking eventually I'll have a soggy, rotten heap. And they are hard to find round here.

I also have a lot of concrete rubble left from demolishing some terrible cr*p the local council poured into the house in the 90's as part of a grant.

So, use that as foundations? I also have a fair bit of 2-6" rock about, maybe use that to build up a load bearing wall around the base? Then shuttered hempcrete walls?

Lastly i have a lot of what I'd describe as cord wood. Tons of fruitwood saplings about toilet roll to forearm thick over 8ft long that I want to use. Roofing materials maybe?

I intend to get doors and windows from my local tip.

Apart from not building in more than the allowed height for planning regs, my canvas is blank.

Any advice, suggestions, inspiration etc etc gratefully appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.

Griff]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10039 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10039 Fri, 25 Jan 2013 14:54:48 +0000 noob
I'm just at the start of my project to renovate my detached 2 bed 50s house, looking for useful advice and I came across this place.

Ive £25k in the kitty right now, the house has loft and cavity wall insulation and faces due south, but the concrete floor is uninsulated, the crittall windows are single glazed, the fire burns coal, it needs a re-wire.
:cry:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10018 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10018 Mon, 21 Jan 2013 21:27:58 +0000 argy
My issue is whether to go for a normal gas boiler and some reasonable level of insulation to do the minimum to get through Building Regulations or to try and ramp things up a bit to achieve a higher energy efficiency

I've looked at MVHR (including linked in air source heat pumps), passive stack ventilation, passive flue gas heat recovery, heat pumps, CHP, pv, solar water, the NHBC report (Energy efficient fixed appliance and building control systems) etc (wind, biomass, water not relevant to us) - but it all seems so expensive for the payback that you get out of it. And that's not including electricity costs, breakdowns, maintenance, ancillaries (filters etc), reduced house value (arguable maybe)

Everything seems to be based on 10 year returns which when you take in product obsolescence and ancillary costs seems way too long. Are equipment prices being somehow based (managed) on this assumption? For example if income from the government went up and/or electricity prices increased would the capital cost of all the energy equipment also go up to maintain the ten year formula? Or maybe I'm being too cynical. Would there be so many self build magazines around without the advertising revenues of all the energy saving suppliers? (and what impact does this have on their editorial policies?)

And does the UK really warrant these costs in any event? (we are not Scandinavia or Germany with consistently lower temperatures through the winter)

I just wonder if, to some extent, the self build community just chasing the law of diminishing returns with all of this?

Are there proven technologies with fast pay backs (under 5 years) that a novice like myself should be looking at
- or is it just the case of closing the trickle vents in winter and remembering to switch the lights out!

Sorry for the element of frustration]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9896 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9896 Mon, 10 Dec 2012 15:24:59 +0000 shortjedi About to start a new build oak framed barn. So far we've got detailed planning permission and the oak frame detailed drawings are due this week. The frame to be exposed internaly and exterior is oak weatherboarding.

We've not finalised a build system yet and are struggeling to make a decission. So far looked at oakrights rightwall and roof system, border oak do something similar, also SIPS. Our favorite is hemcrete but our architect isn't keen on "tree hugging technology" he recomends a blockwork outer leaf with whatever insulation on the inside.

It would be great to talk to someone who's already done similar.

cheers Steve]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9865 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9865 Thu, 29 Nov 2012 12:33:34 +0000 Krispy
Been lurking and reading for a while, very helpful, thank you one and all.

My wife and I, plus two teenage kids away at school/uni term time live in a large house (2 floors, ground area 300m2); I work from home and another 4 or 5 people join me during the day.

House was built in early 60's. Concrete floor, block-and-beam first floor and flat roof, now with insulation above (too thin I suspect) and pitched roof added.

Only South facing window is the one at the end of the upstairs corridor - overlooking garage :sad:

Central heating is cast iron skirting rads. Whole house is a single zone (although: one "out" pipe and two returns, we've put motorised valve on one of the returns but that has, sadly, only isolated rads in 1.5 bedrooms)

A pair (one for pool) of oil boilers now replaced with batch log boiler and 5 tonnes of hot water spread over two accumulators, also heated by Solar Thermal (6 large panels, South facing) in summer. From that heat exchangers for central heating (in position of original boiler, original unpressurised plumbing remains on CH side), DHW via low pre-heat and high coils in accumulator (i.e. mains pressure, and improvement over previous gravity), and another heat exchanger where the pool's heater used to be.

Retro fitting good insulation and UFH looks miserable - financial and upheaval.

We would like a large farmhouse-style kitchen, current footprint doesn't lend itself to achieving that.

So plan is to replace garage with 65m2-ish two-storey extension which will be due-South facing; kitchen / snug / living downstairs, master bedroom etc. above. Super insulate that and hibernate there in the winter. We can open, and heat, the State Apartments in the main house for highdays and holidays during the Winter, but as I hate entertaining in the Winter it won't be often :cool: I am hoping that rest of the Winter we can set the main house thermostat back to, say, 15C??

I am sure to have loads of questions in accomplishing that build.

Before the new build I'm still looking at improvements to main house. Originally built with Crittall metal windows, replaced (by previous owner) about 15 years ago with uPVC double glazed (probably around the time the pitched roof was added). We had cavity filled about 5 years ago.

Condensation on occupied bedrooms, and kitchen, windows on cold winter nights is significant (wiped each morning with sponge and wrung out to basin). Memory not good enough to be sure, but I suspect this is [worse] since cavity fill. We have some black mould that grows on the seals, don't remember seeing that before cavity fill. We have dehumidifer that we move around the rooms in late Autumn - makes the house feel a lot more comfortable - but by mid November it doesn't extract much water - so probably not doing anything useful?

Is there some sort of MHVR I can retro fit? I read about air tightness being crucial, and I doubt we have that (but is there a rule of thumb I can use to know if it is good, bad or indifferent?)

Would it be essential to duct to the ground floor as well? (Easy enough to use the loft space, harder to hide pipework to the ground floor; there are a couple of fitted wardrobes that would do, not enough for every downstairs room though)

Many thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9454 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9454 Thu, 16 Aug 2012 11:58:10 +0100 nikhoward
I have read this forum for years and finally joined a few months ago, said a few comments, but realised never said much about me or my current project.

Getting to be middle aged, married to a lovely wife with two wonderful (mostly) youngish children, live in mid Cornwall near to south coast, part time self employed builder/electrician/dad/husband/house husband. Doing most work myself, but some friends and subbies too.

Been wanting to build own house for years, but never quite managed it, bought an old dated bungalow in the (great) village where we live, planned to turn it into house, but long story short decided on plan B as was costing too much and my poor (variable, mental) health.

Plan B - do a normal loft conversion and convert half the (6x7m) garage/workshop. Current bungalow footprint 8x12m, will end up with large L shaped open plan lounge, kitchen, diner, porch, garage, utility, 4 double bedrooms (one small ensuite), small bathroom, d/s shower room, may do ST preheat in future, might do UFH d/s only.

As green as possible for a modest budget, but will minimise thermal bridges, get in as much insulation as possible, maximise air tightness, lots of reused/left over bits, pretty much fundamentals only, part EWI.

Currently: have planning (for both plan A and B), got BCO, penetrating and rising damp sorted out, structural - crack stiching ,etc mostly done, part rewired, chimney out, re-roofed, new ridge + vent system, old boiler out, new boiler part done (mains gas combi - Worcester Bosch), new wider hall (and smaller lounge) ready for stairs to go in soon. And this week (while little people are staying with my M&D) I am about 1/4 way through putting the new joists (C24 75x200, 400cs if your interested).

Be nice to me (please).

Thanks to everyone for all their posts over the years for the help, advice, inspiration, wisdom, opinion and piss taking, especially Fostertom, Steamy, DSHarris, Tony, Keith, Paul in Mont..., Joiner, Nick Parsons, Damon, CWaters, Biopin, Viking.

ps Amazing how much less time I have on here now I am actually doing more building]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9641 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9641 Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:05:41 +0100 atomicbisf
Last December we bought our first house in Bath and have set about renovating it, it is a British Iron and Steel Federation (BISF) house built in 1949 ( I know this as the seller's father lived here since it was built till his death).

I did not have any experience of renovation so it has been quite a learning curve, especially as the house if of unusual construction so it required quite a lot of research, though I've had a lot of help from the BISF House website (www.bisfhouse.com). I'm not connected with running the website, but it is a nice little community. Having said that about the construction, it does have its advantages as you're only dealing with dry walls and dry linings which is easier than masonry I think.

As I love mid-century design there is a lot about the house to like such as parquet floors, original solid wood doors with glazing above, built-in wardrobes (advanced for their time I think), picture rails etc. I'm trying to preserve the original features while upgrading the insulation, electrics, communications etc.

I'm doing it room-by-room to make it more manageable, so far I have done one bedroom and the living room with the other two bedrooms, dining room, kitchen, bathroom and hallway left to do.

Ed]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9566 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9566 Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:28:24 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
My wife (historic building consultant) and I (architect) are both recently qualified and now have the time to start looking for properties in North London with the hope of fulfilling our dream to 'rescue' an old property and bring it in up to a decent standard of energy efficiency - I've deliberately left that bit vague as I'm aware our current budget is unlikely to cover my own aspirations to build to EnerPHit standards. To give some context, the current contenders are generally Ground Floor apartments in a typical Victorian terrace, so the likely approach will be based on IWI, continuing along the underside of First Floor joists and improving airtightness. If we can find a garden flat then there may be a little new-build extension too.

I'm hoping to post questions as they arise (and once we find something) but to help with the search, I'd appreciate a few pointers on

1) the general feasibility and pitfalls of what we are attempting (I'm thinking of the likely impact on upstairs neighbours' joist ends etc.)
2) what can realistically be achieved with existing single glazed sashes - is retrofitting 3G units a waste of money due to frame losses? Seems a shame to waste good wood.

Apologies if this overlaps with some existing threads - I've not found many posts on our specific situation and would appreciate any advice you can provide...

Thanks in advance,

Tom]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8404 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8404 Thu, 12 Jan 2012 20:20:11 +0000 bealers
I just registered and thought I'd introduce myself.

My Mrs bought us the GB Bible for christmas and after reading a chapter in there I headed here.

I'm hoping to self-build a roundwood house in north Shropshire if the planners let me. We've spent nearly all our money on a half acre plot within a small town with excellent train links to Crewe and Shrewsbury.

We're currently awaiting feedback from a pre-planning application, there's more info and the full 18MB PDF linked from here if anyone is interested: http://roundwoodhouse.org.uk

I'm feeling a tad overwhelmed at the moment, there's so much to consider with a self-build, but after investigating quite a few options including a spell in an intentional community and trying to set-up a housing co-op we feel that a self-build is our only shot at getting a decent sized, resilient low input house without taking on huge amounts of debt.

Anyway, that's me.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9524 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9524 Mon, 03 Sep 2012 13:33:15 +0100 RandomCamel
We're a housing co-operative of 8 adults, called Random Camel. We're in the final stages of buying 3 terraced houses in Ipswich, Suffolk, 2 of them conjoined, all adjacent - the last 3 of what was a whole terraced street.

These properties have been under the same ownership for up to 70 years, having been gradually bought up by a couple who produced 9 children, who all grew up there. Theyre beautiful, but need lots of work.
A partial concrete raft has been installed to remediate subsidence - the vendors insurance company paid almost 30,000 for that (but it took them 2 years to agree grrr!)
We've had them DPC'ed with silicone injection, and the timber treated for wet rot/ beetle.
Roofing works are scheduled to do with replacing lead flashing etc.
We're assessing the chimneys and fireplaces (multiple) for suitability for woodburners, preferably with backboiler to feed into CH system and for hot water, with future options for solar thermal feed-in.
The houses have no insulation and are solid wall, with original lime horsehair plaster throughout. We're researching hemcrete for internal and external application via cast and shuttering. We costed out a few other breathable methods and this came out cheapest, though we're finalising specifics of its application and have questions to post up in another category on this forum...
All but one of the windows is single glazed timber frame some sash. We are going to make wooden double glazed windows to replace them.

We're currently in the midst of rewiring and removing dead plaster, scraping walls and repointing/ replastering.

It's all a bit much!! My head is spinning from the oftimes conflicting information about best options, and our budget is steadily dwindling from the original 30,000 dedicated to day 1 works.
This forum seems like a great space to get support.

I will be posting lots of questions about the various elements of our project, and hope to get help from your fine people. Having browsed through the forums i'm already confounded by technical language, so will ask people if they can set things out in layman's terms. Im really excited about learning all these new skills!

Here's our blog with pics of the houses and our work:
randomcamelcoop.blogspot.com

Gemma x]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9442 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9442 Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:00:08 +0100 AshwellBiomass I have just registered on this forum so wanted to say hi.
Hopefully I won't infringe any of the forum rules on promotion etc by stating that this account is going to be used by a company (hence the choice of username) - we have one or two staff members who will aim to contribute to the discussions in the fields that we are associated and feel that we can offer informative and worthwhile opinions or advice.
look forward to contributing to a quality forum]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8613 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8613 Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:12:56 +0000 rvb99 regs
Richard]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9112 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9112 Wed, 23 May 2012 13:04:04 +0100 rc28
We purchased a bungalow last year and have since obtained planning to convert to a 2.5 storey dwelling.

The design of the building has snowballed from a standard building regs renovation to a (near as possible) uncertified passive house. This came about as the place suffers from severe damp, condensation and mould (to the extent that our furniture is now going mouldy in the house). So I considered EWI to prevent penetrating damp and a MVHR to control humidity, and since then after loads of research etc I have really got into the idea of constructing a passive house.

We will be building most of the new structure off the existing 9” solid walls and footings, all that will be left of the existing building is the 4 external walls (slab and internal walls are being replaced) unfortunately our budget is extremely tight so a new build was out of the question.

Anyway, Our planning drawings are on the link below so you can see what were trying to acheive, I’m hoping to get some detailed drawings up soon for some criticism! It’s our first time building a house and the project is self designed so any advice is much appreciated!

https://pa.hinckley-bosworth.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=externalDocuments&keyVal=LXA7TOII7S000

Just a quick hello for now and I look forward to speaking to you soon

Ricky]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9010 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9010 Tue, 01 May 2012 18:31:09 +0100 Sodesu Have been involved in many building projects for at least 20yrs.looking to upgame my green mo. And innovate my approach.
So very pleased to join your forum-Would also like to add anything of relevance that I can.
Sodesu.

We have a 30KW stove with back boiler. A 120L dual core HWC is linked to the stove gravity feed and return pipe - 28mm copper, and an offset loop with 2 small leak rads.
The radiator loop is run straight from the WB and extends approx.12m from aside HWC upstairs.

Questions arise:

How large would the (metal)feed and expansion tank need be to cope with the thermal expansion created from the 25KW boiler output?
I'm thinking it would be necessary to have a Pressure relief valve over HWC, due to its relatively small 120L capacity? Would a larger leak rad help?


The intention is to run four double rads to 2 large bedrooms with their en/suite using heatleak rads.
However 12m run on the rad loop, as we would like to run pump free, seems open to airlock problems.
Could Large bore pipes on inclines cope?

Any help would be appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8982 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8982 Mon, 23 Apr 2012 16:30:21 +0100 BroT I am new to the forum but not to the industry. I have been working as an intaller in the south east for the last 5 and a half years doing predominantly PV and Thermal with a few GSHPs, Wind Turbines and biomass boilers thrown in for good measure. I am currrently doing an electricians NVQ and working in London. Just found this forum and thought it looked like it would be really useful. Hopefully I can learn from you lot as well as help those in need of any info.

Tim]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8766 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8766 Fri, 09 Mar 2012 08:24:06 +0000 barge17 I have been following this forum for a year or more and have gained a lot from it, thanks a lot to all subscribers.

I am now lucky enough to be involved with my daughter & husband's new build and want to help them get things right from the start.

Our house is separated 12m away across a concrete yard and we intend to install a gassifying wood boiler in an out buiding to heat both houses.

In both houses we are going to install short air ducts to tranfer heat ( only when required ) from a space above the wood burning stoves to the coldest point in each house using 6" ducting and am wondering if there are any recommendations for reasonably priced, quiet fans something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280696501298?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

David]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8387 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8387 Tue, 10 Jan 2012 17:44:37 +0000 HFP I am new here.
We came across this site by accident while hunting out green building alternatives.
We are a small farm in lower himalayan mountains of India.
We are completely off grid and are in the process of experimenting with various technologies as we try and create a model sustainable farm.
I have been peeking around the forum and hope to take your advice on a small 2kv solar panel that we are planning to install if we win a grant by popular vote.
So keeping our fingers crossed.
Cheers,
Himalayan Farmer

www.himalayanfarmproject.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/Himalayanfarm]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8678 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8678 Wed, 22 Feb 2012 15:31:43 +0000 converse
My background is conservation building rather than new build, so I have a lot to learn.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8478 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8478 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 10:10:38 +0000 stephendv
Is this normal behaviour for glass windows, and was I just being a numpty - or could I argue a manufacturing defect with the glass provider?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3978 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3978 Wed, 06 May 2009 13:35:57 +0100 zac123
does anyone know of any good software (ideally free) for designing an eco house? I’ve used software before for this type of thing but I was hoping that a program might exist with pre-loaded templates for standard straw bale sizes and things like that.

thanks
zac]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8000 Sun, 23 Oct 2011 15:09:30 +0100 palebluedot BCO - Building control officer.
CDD - Cooling degree days. Measurement that reflects the demand for energy to cool a building. (See HDD)
COP - Coefficient of Performance.
CPC - Compound parabolic concentrator. Increases heat absorption in a solar thermal array.
CRI - Colour rendering index. A quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colours of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source.
CSH / CfSH - Code for Sustainable Homes (slightly duff government sustainability measure...)
DEA - Domestic Energy Assessment - SAP or EPC etc.
DECC - Department for Energy and Climate Change.
DHW - Domestic hot water.
DPC - Damp proof course
DPM - Damp proof membrane
DPS - Dedicated Pressure Systems - very good thermal store company. Died, then taken over.
EPC - Energy performance certificate, very duff energy calc.
EPS - Expanded polystyrene.
ET - Evacuated tube. Type of solar thermal panel technology. (See also FP).
EWI - External wall insulation.
FIT / FiT - Feed in Tariff. Incentive scheme for renewable and low carbon local power generation.
FiWiHRV - Fine wire heat recovery ventilation. Very efficient HRV system.
FP - Flate plate. Type of solar thermal panel technology. (See also ET).
GSHP - Ground source heat pump.
GBP - Green Building Press.
HA - Housing association.
HDD - Heating Degree Days. Measurement that reflects the demand for energy to heat a building. (See CDD)
HP - Heat pump. (See GSHP, WSHP, ASHP). All use compressor technology (as in refrigerators) to move heat from one place to another.
HRV - Heat recovery ventilation. Used in very airtight buildings. (See FiWiHRV)
IBC - Intermediate bulk container (oft' used for DIY rainwater harvesting, or RH).
kW - kiloWatt = 1000 Joules per second.
kWh - kiloWatt hour = self evidently silly unit (see above).
LA - Local Authority.
LED - Light emitting diode.
LPA - Local Planning Authority.
MVHR - Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery. (As used in Passiv House). Also abbreviated as MHRV.
NHBC - National House Building Council.
OSB - Oriented strand board / sterling board.
PHPP - Passiv haus planning package (ultra low energy energy calc).
PIR - Polyisocyanurate. A rigid foam insulation material. e.g. 'Celotex'.
PV - Photovoltaic.
PVGIS - Photovoltaic Geographical Information System. (http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvgis/about_pvgis/about_pvgis.htm)
RH - Rainwater harvesting.
RHI - Renewable Heat Incentive, like it says, pot of gold at the end of the rainbow for biomass etc.
ROC - Renewables obligation certificate.
SAP - UK Building regs energy calc.
ST Solar Thermal.
TF - Timber frame (I saw it used as an acronym once...)
UFH - Underfloor heating.
U value - Measurement of thermal conductance of a material. (More strictly thermal transmittance - see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_transmittance).
W - Watts; Joules per second; rate of energy.
VCL - Vapour control layer.
WBS - Woodburning stove.
WSHP - Water source heat pump.
WWHRS - Waste water heat recovery system.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7975 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7975 Wed, 19 Oct 2011 12:42:24 +0100 Pugliese
As we are new, a little about us. A couple of years ago with the kids grown up we decided to TRY and get off the job/mortgage treadmill and figured we could sell up, clear the mortgage and follow 'La Dolce Vita' by buying a small house abroad and a small house in the UK, splitting our time between the two.

Spent the last two years project managing a restoration of a Trulli in Southern Italy, which certainly was a massive learning curve. With that experience behind us we set about buying a small house on the south coast in Hastings and certainly had no aspirations to build. However with a predominantly Victorian housing stock, trying to find a house with low running costs and within our small budget was proving impossible. Then I stumbled across a small plot, in a lovely location, so the old brain started to clunk into action and thought we could actually build the thermally efficient and sustainably built property we were after.

Project management in Italy compared to the UK may require similar skill sets but having researched self build in the UK over the last two months the rules and methods are far apart. Also in Italy it was a renovation project.

So we are at the beginning of our self build journey and will no doubt be asking lots of questions at the outset but we also have a wealth of experience regarding restoration of stone buildings, resolving damp etc which we are happy to share.

If you are interested in our first new build question, it is regarding the best type of timber-frame to go for]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7958 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7958 Mon, 17 Oct 2011 14:10:16 +0100 palebluedot
Though I'm not sure if a searchable/updatable document is even possible on the forum.

* Green Building Technology Talk
**Some Kind Of Glossary
***Useful]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7906 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7906 Fri, 07 Oct 2011 12:23:59 +0100 palebluedot
I just joined the forum here, and thought I should introduce myself.

I've been looking for an intelligent and knowledgeable forum on green self-build for a while, and looks like I've found it. Just randomly clicking on a few threads it looks like there's a lot of people here who know about the nitty-gritty of this huge subject. I'll probably be mostly lurking for a while, just reading around, but as I come from the know-nothing yet end of the spectrum, I may be asking some stupid questions from time-to-time. (I hope not too many).

My ambition is to build myself a zero carbon home in the next few years. But more than that, I want to be part of a small community promoting and living a low impact lifestyle. I've been reading about the Hockerton Housing Project (http://www.hockertonhousingproject.org.uk/), and that seems to be very close to the kind of thing I'd like to do.

Anyway... hello!

pbd]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7471 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7471 Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:58:22 +0100 Triassic
Anyway we've now decided that the best route for us is to either buy another major renovation project or to go down the new build route, either way we want to do it right. So we had this idea of a bit of a 'works trip' to gather ideas, we've see that there are a few places that may be worth a visit, such as the Potton show houses, the Centre for Alterative Technology, the Alternative Technology Centre, the Build Store site and the Homebuilding & Renovating show etc.

Can anyone else suggest places to visit where we can look at the various designs of building, the latest technology and good eco design ideas are on display?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7272 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7272 Thu, 14 Apr 2011 23:27:02 +0100 Gotanewlife
Is there anyway back? He will try to swap with the supplier but the GSHP has been sat around for many months so it is a long shot.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6747 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6747 Mon, 27 Dec 2010 12:37:13 +0000 Coul
The oil-fired systems have used copper for the hot-water cylinder and the large accumulator tanks for a gasification boiler are generally steel with a greater risk of corrosion.

It seems as if continental European systems are closed circuit with a pressurised expansion tank, presumably this means that the water is not in contact with the atmosphere with less potential for oxygen becoming dissolved and corroding the system. Is my interpretaion correct and what size of pressurised expansion tank do I need, 10% of system volume? Also, where should the pressurised expansion tank be located, near the boiler/accumulator or as high as possible?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6126 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6126 Sat, 07 Aug 2010 15:58:18 +0100 stephendv Are there any other options?

The soil is more sand than clay.

EDIT: I should also mention that there's a 1m difference in height between the shortest pilar and the tallest.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6363 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6363 Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:25:08 +0100 Gotanewlife http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6140 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6140 Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:17:56 +0100 cascade82 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6136 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6136 Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:01:29 +0100 pollyc
I'm renovating my 100 year old cottage in Ireland from scratch and one of the things I need is a water source.
I'd be really grateful if anyone could advice on the water dilemma. I'd like to combine an overall affordable option with a renewable energy source, without a massive outlay of funds at the beginning. Am on a very tight budget!

So, I'm trying to work out whether to connect to the mains water, drill a well, or combine one or the other with a rainwater collecting facility. I like the thought of being independent from county council water charges, but drilling a well and potential related costs of maintenance and pump.

Option 1: Connecting to the water mains costs €3145, but then water rates will are being brought in later this year, thus there would be ongoing charges.

Option 2: Combining water mains with rainwater harvesting - cost €3145 plus unknown outlay and presumably pump charges (electricity) and I'm not sure what else.

Option 3: Well drilling - cost €3500 plus VAT, and on top of that, I'd need to pay to lay pipes and bring the water to my house, plus the cost of running an electric pump.

Can anyone advise on potential pitfalls/common experience/sensible advice?

Gratefully received!

Thank you, Polly C




:bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5355 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5355 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 09:35:31 +0000 adwindrum http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2194 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2194 Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:30:50 +0100 Will Barn school house which was converted some 28 years ago. Has a tower on the roof
which I really like - problem is that is has open louvers on all four sides
which provides ventilation - but not enough for the area of the loft space
really - but also when the wind and rain combine in strength from a south
westerly direction which is the prevailing direction we get the rain coming
in and down the insider of the tower. The building walls are solid Dorset
concrete from 1871 so no air vents. I want to close the louvers but make
sure I have adequate ventilation but make sure I can also get maximum heat
retention re loft insulation etc - trying to find out any applicable building
regs or any views/options etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3936 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3936 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 17:17:45 +0100 RobinB
I found this definition which sounds quite different to the one in the Newbies glossary on this forum ( very useful glossary, by the way)

"U-value (coefficient of heat transmission) - The rate of heat transmission through 1 square foot of building envelope for 1 degree Fahrenheit difference in temperature between indoors and outdoors."

Or do square feet and degrees fahrenheit magically just happen to tally with square metres and degrees c. ?
thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2615 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2615 Sat, 27 Sep 2008 23:12:12 +0100 louisamorant http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3020 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3020 Wed, 26 Nov 2008 22:54:44 +0000 a11041989

Oh, and it's a terrace house, and we're out of the house most of the day, and nights (when we're asleep) don't bother us either, so it's really just mornings for a couple of hours, and evenings from about 5-11pm.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1059 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1059 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 19:40:04 +0000 GBP-Keith
ACH: Air changes (usually per hour is quoted at some pressure, e.g. 6.4ACH@50Pa)

AD: Approved Document [Building Regulations]

AECB: Association For Environment Conscious Building

AGW: Anthropogenic Global Warming

ALLI: Area of Local Landscape Importance

AOD: Above Ordnance Datum

A: ampere

ASHP: Air source heat pump

BBA British Board of Agrement

BERR: Department for Business, Enterprise & Regulatory Reform (formerly part of the DTI)

BFF: Building for a future magazine (Now Green building Magazine)

BI: Building inspector

BIAT:British Institute of Architectural Technologists (now superseded by CIAT: Chartered Institute of Architectural Technologists)

BSRIA - Building Services Research and Information Association

BR: Building Regulations

BRE: Building Research Establishment

BREEAM: Building Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Model

BS British Standard

CAMS: Catchment Abstraction Management Strategies

CAT: Centre for Alternative Technology

CCA: Copper Chromate Arsenic (wood preserver)

CFC: Chlorofluorocarbon (ozone destroying gas which used to be used in insulation)

CFL: Compact Fluorescent Light

CH: Central heating

CHP: Combined Heat and Power

CIBSE: Chartered Institute of Building Services Engineers

CIRIA - Construction Industry Research and Information Association

CLP: Carbonlite Programme (run by the AECB)

CMM Confederation of Multifoil Manufacturers

CO2: Carbon Dioxide

CoP: Coefficient of performance (term used to explain the performance of heat pumps)

CSH: Code for Sustainable Homes

ctrs: centers (as in joist spacings)

CUAP Common Understanding of Assessment Procedure

DCLG: Department for Communities and Local Government, formerly:

DDA: Disability Discrimination Act

DG or DGW: double glazed unit

DHW: Domestic hot water

DPC: Damp proof Course

DPM: Damp proof Membrane

DER - Dwelling Emissions rate

EER: Energy Efficiency Ratio (used to rate air conditioners)

EPS: Expanded Polystyrene [Insulation]

ERV: Energy Recovery Ventilator

ESCO: Energy Services Company

ESH: Earth Sheltered Home

EST - Energy Savings Trust

FFL: Finished Floor Level

FSC: Forest Stewardship Council

GBB: Green Building Bible

GBM: Green Building Magazine

GSHP: Ground source heat pump

GPA: Groundwater Protection Area

GWP: Global warming potential

HCFC: Hydrochlorofluorocarbon (ozone destroying gas which is still used in some insulation)

HFC:- Hydroflurocarbon - replacement refrigerant with zero ODP

HIP: Home Information Pack

HLP - Heat Loss Parameter

HMG: Her Majesty's Government

HRV: Heat Recovery Ventilator

HSE: Health & Safety Executive

HSPF: Heating Season Performance Factor (used to rate ASHPs)

ICE: Institution of Civil Engineers

ICF: Insulated Concrete Form

IStructE: Institution of Structural Engineers

K: Kelvin (but we usually use degrees Celcius)

kg: kilogram

kW: Kilowatts

kWh: Kilowatthours

L1A and L1B: Approved Documents of BR relating to thermal performance, conservation of fuel and power, in new-build and refurb respectively

LA: Local authority

LCA: Lifecycle analysis

LCBP: Low Carbon Building Programme

LED: Light Emitting Diode

LEED: Leadership in Energy Efficient Design - US efficient building program for mainly commercial buildings

LNR: Local Nature Reserve

LZC - Low or Zero Carbon

m: metre (metric measurement)

M&E: Mechanical & Electrical

MDF: Medium density fibreboard

MERV: Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (used to rate the effectiveness of filters in forced air equipment)

MHRV: Mechanical Heat and Recovery Ventilation

MOL: Metropolitan Open Land

Natura 2000: European special sites (includes all SAC's & SPA's)

NNR: National Nature Reserve (Wildlife and/or geology)

NOx - Nitrogen Oxides or Oxides of Nitrogen (E.g. NO, NO2)

ODP: Ozone depleating potential

ODPM: Office of Deputy Prime Minister

OSB: Oriented strand board (large flaked building board like chipboard)

PAHS: Passive Annual Heat Storage

PEFC: Programme for the endorsement of forest certification schemes

PIR - Passive Infrared

PIR: Polyisocyanurate [Insulation]

PUR: Polyurethane [Insulation]

PV: Photovoltaic solar panels

PVC: Polyvinylchloride

PVCu Unplasticised Polyvinylchloride (rigid as used in waste pipes etc)

RAMSAR: Internationally Important Wetland

REGOs: Renewable Energy Guarantee of Origin certificate

RIAS: Royal Institute of Architects in Scotland

RIBA:Royal Institute of British Architects

RICS: Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors

RIGS:Regionally Important Geological and Geomorphological Sites.

ROCs: Renewable Obligation certificates

s: second

SAC: Special Area of Conservation (Mainly for habitats)

SAP: Standard Assessment Procedure

SEDA: Scottish Ecological Design Association

SEER: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (the above corrected for an idealized cooling season)

SI: System International

SIPs: Structural insulated panels

SO2: Sulpher dioxide

SPA; Special Protected Area (Mainly for birds)

SSSI: Site of Special Scientific Interest (Wildlife and/or geology)

SUDS - Sustainable Drainage Systems or Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems

TAS Thermal Analysis Simulation

TER - Target Emisissons rate

UFH: Underfloor heating

uPVC: Unplasticised Polyvinylchloride (rigid as used in waste pipes etc)

XPS: Extruded polystyrene [Insulation]

Thanks to the following forum members for help with this list so far:
Tony
Nick Parsons
LizM
Paul in Montreal
TheDoctor
Pingy
Olly
Mike George
StuartB
Ted
Jon
Skywalker]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1051 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1051 Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:05:02 +0000 GBP-Keith