Thu, 23 May 2013 23:59:19 +0100 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 Tue, 15 May 2007 18:00:44 +0100 GBP-Keith
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This is a moderated forum so please be aware that your postings may be edited at any time by the Green Building Press or authorised moderator/s if they are of an unacceptable standard or contain advertising. However, considering the real-time nature of this community, it is impossible for us to review messages or confirm the validity of information posted. We do not actively monitor the content for accuracy and are not responsible for any content posted. We do not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any message, and are not responsible for the content of any data posted by members. The messages express the views of the poster of the message, not necessarily the views of this community or any entity associated with this community. Any user who objects to any posting or part thereof is encouraged to contact us immediately by email. We have the ability to remove objectionable messages and we will make every effort to do so, within a reasonable time frame, if we determine that removal is necessary. This is a manual process, however, so please realize that we may not be able to remove or edit particular messages immediately.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10697 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10697 Wed, 22 May 2013 13:08:25 +0100 Nick Parsons
Typical 2-storey Victorian offshot with kitchen to GF and bathr to FF. Approx 2.4 wide x 3m long. Monopitch roof falling across the 2.4m dimension. Built with roof void and suspended ceiling.

I did a survey a few years ago, and the client, having done some work themselves, has asked me to price for IWI and vaulted ceiling underdrawing to the bathroom. In order to get the full vaulted effect they have cut out all the ceiling joists......

I think the first thing they need is a structural engineer. What do you think?

I have not visited yet, and don't know whether the roof is original weight or heavier, but I think the joists were almost certainly acting as collars preventing spread.

My gut feeling says if they *must* have 'the vaulted look', they should consider a spreader plate on each wall at the former susp ceiling height, and one or more 'decorative' (discuss!) stainless tie-bars, to make it look as if they meant it to look like that.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10701 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10701 Thu, 23 May 2013 10:04:52 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10694 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10694 Tue, 21 May 2013 12:31:14 +0100 ferdinand2000
In the kitchen for example, 5 out of 19 have popped in 12 weeks since we moved in.

I'm trying out an Ikea one called LEDARE, £4 and specced as 25k hours life, '35W', 150 Lumens, 2700k (warm white), 36 degree beam, same size as a halogen spot.

These are a reasonably direct replacement for the existing 35W spots, which the previous owner admitted were 'cheap and cheerful off the internet'..

To date they seem OK, but I'll lose my dimmer circuits - which is fine. Ceilings are about 2.5m, and the beam angle seems OK.

I wonder if anyone has experience of these or a recommended alternative? Are there any gotchas I should know ebfore I spend £300-£400?

I'd go to perhaps £6-7 per bulb if necessary. Is there mileage in using something more powerful and leaving half of the fittings unused?

Thanks

Ferdinand]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10705 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10705 Thu, 23 May 2013 22:18:25 +0100 tony
The reason for this is that they make the heads too small.

I think a door should have a small clearance each side 4mm so the head should hold the styles 8mm wider apart than the width of the door to be hung in it.

Why are we in the C21 talking about this, should have been sorted years ago.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10704 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10704 Thu, 23 May 2013 21:32:23 +0100 Swarm
Ideally we will be able to rip all this up and possibly insulate this floor but now I'm worried it may be asbestos tile as it's a 60s house and this may have been the original flooring.

As well as being on the floor it seems to go up 1-2 tiles on the wall too. I've included photos and sorry they're not all in focus.

I'm not averse to having an expert come in and test them etc. but would be interested if anyone knowledgeable on this has any opinion from the photos.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10689 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10689 Mon, 20 May 2013 14:05:43 +0100 Shevek
What thickness are they generally and how hard are they to bend on site as required? Is it something we should get the engineer involved with? Should we expect the window manufacturer to be able to supply these?

We're installing heavy triple-glazed timber units, one of which is a 3.7 m long folding sliding door. Attached is the window detail I'm working to for most of our windows (to existing brickwork)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10703 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10703 Thu, 23 May 2013 21:22:33 +0100 Charli
Haven't got a massive gap- 4m long and south facing, everything has to be diy-able, what kind of greenhouse would you build in a mildish middle of the UK climate- with the aim of it being frost-free without requiring any mains-leccy over the winter.

Brick north-facing wall, insulated on the outside, sunken path for cold air to accumulate in, triple-wall polycarbonate sheeting (I won't be allowed to spend that much), climate battery... any ideas?

In reality I'll end up with whatever I can get off ebay/freecycle... but I can dream!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10702 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10702 Thu, 23 May 2013 20:51:47 +0100 an02ew
first sharpen the SIDE of a large flexible(thin) scraper then using a straight edge just slice the board 2/3 times, the scrappers edge has to be very sharp.

see PDFs below]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10518 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10518 Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:34:25 +0100 carolwat
I have MCS and need a new kitchen, but cannot afford very expensive kitchen units.

Does anyone know of companies who sell kitchen units which are from safe materials that are not megaexpensive?

Also what are the preferred materials to use that prefereably don't outgas nasties for long?

Chipboard outgases formaldehyde. I have been told, though, that ECOS sell a paint that can be used to neutralise the formaldehyde on chipboard/MDF etc, but that is probably a last resort.

Thanks,
Carol]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10692 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10692 Mon, 20 May 2013 21:25:36 +0100 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10700 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10700 Thu, 23 May 2013 08:58:17 +0100 bot de paille
Drove by the Pyrenees mountains the other day and I have never seen so much snow on them, even in the depths of winter. 2 meters of snow covering the roads which the snow plough has to carve a canyon through.

My partner who has lived in these parts all her life has never seen anything like it, her parents neither. The old timers say that it reminds them of the winters just before WW2 and as far as they are concerned this summer is going to be almost no existent.

Maunder minimum anyone?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9305 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9305 Sat, 07 Jul 2012 12:23:45 +0100 Mikeee5
I have recently had a discussion with the technical team of one of the governing bodies and they said that the stove should be run and fuelled as per the conditions listed in the Schedule of document 2106 Clean Air England. The Smoke Control Area (Exempted Fireplaces) (England) (No. 2) Order 2011, to comply with the requirements of BS PD 634:1969 which is the Test Protocol for the recommendations for the design and testing of smoke reducing solid fuel burning domestic appliances. I have looked through the schedule and neighbours stove is listed as exempted to burn “dry & split wood logs” no mention of pallets or rough wood!

2011 No. 2106
CLEAN AIR, ENGLAND
The Smoke Control Areas (Exempted Fireplaces) (England) (No. 2) Order 2011
Made
22nd August 2011
Laid before Parliament
31st August 2011
Coming into force
1st October 2011
The Secretary of State makes the following Order in exercise of the powers conferred by section 21 of the Clean Air Act 1993(1).
The Secretary of State is satisfied that the fireplaces exempted by this Order can be used for burning fuel other than authorised fuels(2) without producing any smoke or a substantial quantity of smoke.
Citation, application and commencement
1. This Order—
(a)may be cited as the Smoke Control Areas (Exempted Fireplaces) (England) (No. 2) Order 2011;
(b)applies in England; and
(c)comes into force on 1st October 2011.
Fireplaces exempted from the provisions of section 20 of the Clean Air Act 1993
2. The fireplaces listed in the Schedule are exempt from the provisions of section 20 of the Clean Air Act 1993 (prohibition on emission of smoke in smoke control area), subject to the conditions listed in the Schedule.
Revocation
3. The Smoke Control Areas (Exempted Fireplaces) (England) Order 2011(3) is revoked.



I have started a thread in Building Regulations and Standards regarding the close proximity of my neighbours chimney in respect to part J and have had some positive feed back but thought the smoke problem would be better continued under heating and cooling.

All thoughts welcomed.

Mikeee]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10699 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10699 Wed, 22 May 2013 19:40:57 +0100 Gotanewlife http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10680 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10680 Fri, 17 May 2013 09:27:55 +0100 scrimper
Our circumstances wouldn't let us qualify under any means tested or low-income basis I shouldn't think, but I'm a little confused because some of the material I read seems to suggest that this isn't always a barrier. We are in a period property (whatever that means!) and have no current insulation to speak of ...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10693 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10693 Mon, 20 May 2013 23:16:07 +0100 Gotanewlife
http://www.fenzigroup.com/portals/0/pdf/News3_11_WarmEdge_ENG.pdf

Now one has to question how independent this is, given Fenzi make warm edges of various types. I've read a few biased reports in my life and this one doesn't seem to me to have the 'bad smell', and they do say some negative things about several of the product types they sell; so, given I could find no other informative documentation on warm edges, I suggest it's a must read. However, I would love to read anything else along these line....anyone?

One weakness is that they don't compare the various warm edge types with a std ali edge in their table...Anyway, having read this I am left with a concern that warm edges don't have the longevity that ali edges have (except the stainless steel construction type warm edge). Can anyone set my mind at ease?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10656 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10656 Fri, 10 May 2013 10:28:35 +0100 scrimper
First question: is any RHPP payment effectively an 'up front' RHI payment? I've heard that (if) RHI payments come in, your metered amounts of energy generation will be used first to pay back the RHPP amount, before it then starts to pay out at their regular unit rates.

Second question: I gather from reading about RHPP payments that you can have dual grants ... e.g you could have two systems, air source and biomass, and both would qualify for vouchers. But someone at the show was insisting that only one source (the main one) could be then metered for RHI payments ..

I know it is a little crazy trying to second guess the government's moves on this front - but I just wanted to get a clearer understanding of how people see the lie of the land at the moment. Basically I would like to use air source as an automated source of heat ... but would also love to use the wood we are lucky enough to have around us ... and it would be great if both systems qualified for the grants!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10684 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10684 Sat, 18 May 2013 15:31:30 +0100 Simon Still
Looking to spec 3G for all of the glazing but I'm assuming not all 3G is created equal. What do people recommend/relative advantages and what cost uplift (per m^2) should I expect for -
- wider spacings (4-18-4-18-4) vs (4-16-4-16-4)
- laminated glass (think we might be required to have this for all the "accessible" windows/doors)
- low e coatings
- self cleaning coatings

I suspect these 'extras' are fairly high margin and can be negotiated a bit but don't have a clue as to the 'right' price at the moment.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10698 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10698 Wed, 22 May 2013 13:16:03 +0100 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10695 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10695 Tue, 21 May 2013 22:25:48 +0100 Shevek
I'm not sure what we're doing after the stopcock. 22 mm copper? A manifold? What's the best way to t-off from the stopcock? I need to put a meter in somewhere too... before the stopcock I assume?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10696 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10696 Wed, 22 May 2013 08:07:05 +0100 Brunei Bob
Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Cheers.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8876 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8876 Fri, 30 Mar 2012 11:13:23 +0100 GHC I was wondering who has had experiences with CFSH courses / software and their verdicts. After a few queries i thought i would take a look into the training courses to see if it would be time well spent, but they all seem to vary in price and software usability.

Thanks for the input!
Pete]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9406 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9406 Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:00:28 +0100 Triassic
The latest offer had a list of points and this set me to wondering. What is it all about and do I need to know more, ideally without wasteing my time?

So anyone here got any answers ---

How does the Green Deal work?
How is the Green Deal funded?
What kinds of customers will the Green Deal benefit the most?
How are Green Deal loans repaid and how long is the payback period?
What is the "Golden Rule?"
What are the roles of the Green Deal Assessors, Providers and Installers?
What do you need to do to prepare your business for the Green Deal?
How will participants in the scheme earn their revenue?
What are the rules about relationships between Assessors and Providers?


By the way I started the tread here because I keep being told energy assessment is key to the deal?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10100 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10100 Fri, 08 Feb 2013 17:00:00 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10681 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10681 Fri, 17 May 2013 20:32:35 +0100 an02ew
The budget is around 3 to 4 hundred thousand and the plot is about an acre.
I have advice that PH may not be the easiest route to take due to its strict rules and limited choice of products.
I have warned that the build will reflect the developer’s personality, his honesty and he should think hard and plan before he rushes in with a quick fix.

What would you build?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10025 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10025 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:44:04 +0000 neilgorswift http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10645 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10645 Wed, 08 May 2013 18:42:16 +0100 Gotanewlife
The idea is to rout out all the windows inner frames (and top part of French Doors) back to the glass slot. I am then left with the second photo where there is 28mm thickness. What format do you recommend? I thought I would use 4-10-4 or 4-12-4 leaving a piece of 10 or 8 mm quadrant to hold the DG in place. Now I am afraid that the bigger French Windows will be very heavy made like this (they are not well installed) and was hoping to use 3mm glass on the top panes of the French doors. I know that it is safer to use 4mm glass but the 3mm stuff currently installed hasn't caused any problems, also the glass should be tempered below 1m or so but I'm not doing that. No regs to worry about as in Italy. So how does 3mm glass (with an extra 2mm gap to make width the same) compare?

As to the installation itself can anyone advice on how it is done: should I use spacers, if so, which ones; what gap I should aim for between the edge of the DG units and frame; should I ventilate this gap and if so how; any issues arising out of triangular shaped DG units; and any other general pointers/advice. Local glassier will make the DG units.

Bit of a big job this so v grateful for your advice. What a difference this is going to make!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10613 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10613 Wed, 01 May 2013 00:34:11 +0100 tony
1) Reduce my usage of all resources
2) Draught proof my home
3) Drive more slowly
4) Throw away my thermostat and fit myself a programmable room thermostat.
5) ?

I only need five could we help me do better without making the list any longer]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10687 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10687 Sun, 19 May 2013 10:16:55 +0100 stones
Dumping excess PV into an immersion is number one option but may prove difficult as my immersion is integrated with my heat pump. I am currently waiting to hear back from the manufacturer as to whether it is possible to do this.

Two more ideas to use excess pv to help reduce running costs, first use an intelligent switch/socket to switch on a dehumidifier in a laundry room to dry clothes. This is something low cost that will benefit us and provide some additional heat to be recycled through the heat pump. A small electric heater in spring/autumn and winter, again controlled by an intelligent switch/socket is another option.

The third option is whether to fit either a pre heater or supply air heater (again switched on and off using an intelligent switch/socket) to the supply air duct before it enters the heat pump ventilation system to pre heat the air and thus save the heat pump from having to do so. If I can raise the incoming air temp to 8C or above, the heat pump does not need to use any immersion back up. My question therefore is which option do you think would be best, a pre heater (frost prevention type heater) or supply air heater (1 or 1.5 kw) with some kind of thermostat inside to ensure internal temp does not soar to unbearable levels? I think has the greatest potential at relatively low cost.

My other thought, previously discussed on the forum, would be an underground pipe buried at 2m through which supply air would be drawn. This gets more complicated as it would be a retrofit. Plenty of space outside to bury the pipe, and could run it vertically in an insulated enclosure outside the house before bringing it inside. This would be quite expensive to do, probably £3K - £4K if using pipe with silver in it. I was put off this thought when building my house 2009 / 2010 due to the negative vibe at the time. Wondering if anyone has installed such a pipe and if there is any fresh thinking on the pros and cons of such a pipe?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10691 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10691 Mon, 20 May 2013 19:15:57 +0100 CWatters
"VentusAR uses technology such as gravity sensors and GPS, which are now standard in smartphones and other mobile devices, to create an instant 3D image of what a site would look like after a wind farm is built."

The developers won't like that. They like to control where photomontages are taken from so that trees obsure the turbines.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10417 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10417 Fri, 29 Mar 2013 19:47:11 +0000 eniacs
So far I've completed one room of my house which I installed a triple glazed UPVC 28mm (4--8--4--8--4) Which as i understand it is maybe on a par or slightly better than double glazing. This was a reasonable £300 (up from £200 ish for the double) delivered to my house within a week.

The size is a fairly standard 1.8m wide by 1.2m height. We opted for three identical panels of glass with one of them opening outwards.

Internorm have quoted an extremely high quote of £1200 for the same window albeit in UPVC/aluminium, this is apparantly including their discount offer of free upgrade to triple glazing, god knows what it was befor this. Im shocked and am starting to think I may as well follow the rest of the country and go double all round as the upgrade clearly isnt worth it.

I am happy to pay extra for the better glass, but I am at a loss to find a supplier.

Any ideas? I would like a UPVC frame with the 44mm 4-16-4-16-4 glass. No need for fancy wooden frames as these will be needlessly expensive and out of place for this renovation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10690 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10690 Mon, 20 May 2013 14:40:32 +0100 Shevek
The window manufacturer buggered up the height and made it too short.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10676 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10676 Tue, 14 May 2013 17:24:20 +0100 Paul_B
I came across Abundance Generation when I was looking at making small investments via Crowdsourcing. I wanted to invest in small manufacturing entities that were likely been overlooked by banks or if not imposed with high borrowing rates. Anyway Abundance Generation (https://www.abundancegeneration.com/) is a slight twist on the theme in that it offers debentures in a renewables scheme, once an offer has been completed (most don't make it out of the early bird discount period as take-up is very quick) you can follow the weekly production of energy at the projects you have invested in.

To date I've made a single investment in a Solar farm based fairly locally in Kent, it is as the background summary explains "...The project is a commercial scale, ground mounted solar array, consisting of 999 solar panels giving a total capacity of 249.75kWp"

Ever week I can see how much energy has been produced and a small summary of weather conditions:

Week 06/05/13 - 12/05/13 = 9,053 kWh
Week 29/04/13 - 05/05/13 = 11,082 kWh
Week 22/04/13 - 28/04/13 = 10,094 kWh

Is this a way to get people involved in renewables and provide renewable companies access to relatively cheap money?

Paul]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10688 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10688 Mon, 20 May 2013 07:03:00 +0100 SteamyTea
http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/business/money/Consumer/article1260843.ece?CMP=OTH-gnws-standard-2013_05_18]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10675 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10675 Tue, 14 May 2013 12:28:28 +0100 Greenfish
The idea is to construct the room using attic trusses with the joists hanging on side struts down from the rafters with the rafters resting on a wall plate. Thus the attic is within the building walls, but sides of the truss narrow the room width. See diagram below. I am not completely sure how the truss will be constructed, but pretty sure that there will be some gap between the side struts and the masonry walls. I could really do with advice about how to make the construction air tight especially the area of the wall plate.

The best way to insulate is another question. The typical attic room approach of part rafter level and the dwarf side walls leaves open areas behind the sides for thermal looping losses. Could fill these too, but there will already be adequate insulation at the sides wall inside the masonry cavity. Do I insulate the full rafter length instead? Not keen on Insulating the roof externally because of the roofing over the veranda. Internally requires fitting around the truss timbers side timbers as been as between rafters. Any suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10677 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10677 Wed, 15 May 2013 11:33:57 +0100 gustyturbine A friend has been approached by a company wanting to install a 50kW turbine on his farm. Planning should be fine as the farm next to him has fitted one already. Thjey have told him that all costs (£350,000) would be paid for by the company. The grid connection would go over his land for around .5 miles. Does the installation cost seem high at all? If the cost was lower he may try and fund it himself.
I am used to the larger scale turbine operation and the MW price installed is much cheaper then than £350,000 for 50kw quoted although I can understand why to a degree.
What is the opinion of the wind turbine operators we have on the forum? Does £350,000 seem high to them. The turbine is Endurance.
Many thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9761 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9761 Thu, 01 Nov 2012 10:35:23 +0000 peterpanel22
Is it making solar thermal look like yesterday's technology? as this works all year round therefore you do not rely on secondary source.

Their website looks professional but not sure to go ahead with them http://www.sks-thermo.co.uk" >. Does anyone have any experience with this company?? I found a few positive reviews of them.

Also they said this system qualifies for the RHI but it does not come into action until summer 2012, but I do not know how much I would get.

The price they quoted was just above £6000 for this for my needs, how long will it take to get an ROI?

Sorry for multiple questions, me and my partner are in this dilema and I could not find any information to this as this is a new thing, and having free hot water heating really would help us out.

:neutral:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10619 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10619 Thu, 02 May 2013 10:43:20 +0100 rhamdu
Newly built estate in Coventry, with exhaust-air-source heat pumps installed in the houses. For three years, residents have been getting enormous electricity bills.

One theory is that the heat pumps are under-specified and as a result, the electric back-up heater is on for much of the time.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b01s6sxd/The_One_Show_01_05_2013/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10683 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10683 Sat, 18 May 2013 15:05:14 +0100 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10682 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10682 Sat, 18 May 2013 13:18:15 +0100 Greenfish http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10686 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10686 Sat, 18 May 2013 18:05:29 +0100 Gotanewlife http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10661 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10661 Sat, 11 May 2013 14:15:46 +0100 ferkan
As far as I can see, this has not been asked before. I'm interested in adding external wall insulation to the back of a victorian terraced house. An option I'm vaguely considering is to try and replicate the original look of the wall by using brick slips. However, there is a fair amount of brick detailing (over windows etc), which may make things more difficult.

I suspect that I might have to go for a render, but just in case, has anyone ever tried this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10685 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10685 Sat, 18 May 2013 17:27:05 +0100 PaulJ http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10674 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10674 Tue, 14 May 2013 09:32:33 +0100 owlman First; anyone got any bright ideas for a solution short of a shotgun.
Second; Is the increasing useage of huge glazed areas in out homes very bad, not only from an insulation point of view, but also from a wildlife perspective?
Third; Bit of a daft question, but are there any non reflective sealed units?

Edit: We OWLS generally don't have a problem, being mainly nocturnal.:bigsmile::wink:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10678 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10678 Thu, 16 May 2013 13:37:52 +0100 stuey
I purchased a 3 story Mid terrace in November last year. It's your typical mid terrace with the stairs all to cock (the ground floor stairs running parallel to the front and rear elevation, right in the middle of the ground floor and the stairs from the 1st to 2nd floor running 90degrees to the first along the wall of the right hand side of the building running from the rear to the front upwards). The rear bedroom which allows access to the 2nd staircase is actually the bathroom. There is a single skinned kitchen 3m x 2.5 at the rear and a small garden. The width of the property is ONLY 3.3 meters.

The plan is to build a dormer in the roof to allow the existing staircase to remain in its current position but run in the opposite direction (I.e from front to rear) coming down to the 2nd floor will be a small landing and the stairs will continue along the right hand side of the building to the front door at the bottom so the stairs will all run together. This will allow me to separate the middle floor into; a front bedroom, a small 1700mm x 1700mm bathroom in the middle and a small single bedroom at the rear.

Then a new kitchen/diner will be built across the rear of the property, 4m out to the garden. A port light window will be placed on the flat roof of this extension to allow light into both the new extension and the new central part of the ground floor. The whole of the ground floor will be open plan (one long living space / kitchen).

The estimated cost of the dormer/extension and staircase move etc is roughly £40K.

My part of all this is to maximise space by knocking out the front chimney breast, ground and second floor) ripping up the floor boards and adding insulation and insulating the front and rear external walls of the house. I am also installing a wood burning stove in the rear chimney breast.

Now for the facts about the external walls - they DO have a roughly 80mm cavity. However inside the property, no insulation is present, just plaster making them extremely cold in the winter. The party walls are also letting an awful lot of noise through from next door on either side and I will be soundproofing the bedrooms at least.

So my dilemma lies in what to use to a) internally insulate the front and rear external walls, b) how best to insulate the floor and c) what to use to soundproof/insulate the party walls ???

The one limiting factor is SPACE! The property is only 3.2m wide so efficient sound proofing of party walls with bars and soundboard will be reserved for the master bedroom in the loft and only on one side. The opposite side will have a built in wardrobe against the wall.

I have narrowed my choice on insulation for the front and rear walls to either 50mm celotex with plasterboard on top or a layer of 10mm Sempertap. The advantage of Sempertap is that it's thin and I can do the job quick without taking the plaster off the walls. If this is a recommended option then I would be partial to using this for most of the house, party walls as well. I am interested in people's opinions on this as I've heard conflicting reports about Sempertap. Is 50mm Celotex board the preferred option? Baring in mind the width of the house, this would be fine for the front and rear walls but not the party, I would just lose too much space and its a LOT of work to do ALL the walls in this way.

As for the floor it seems that EPF is the cheapest option? Between the joists, sealed with expandable foam and services laid over top before putting the boards back??? I have about a foot of space under the joists for airflow so I'm hoping that there will not be too much condensation build up under the insulation.

Cost wise it seems that the Sempertap is more expensive but it's less mess and work to install. Will it still be as good an insulator as 50mm Kingspan or Celotex? Also - I AM NOT PLANNING ON FILLING THE CAVITY WALL. The reason for this was so that there is a large enough air space behind the insulation in case of condensation.

I'd like to finish by saying that all the plastering in the building is very good despite the age. It would be a shame to rip it all off to accommodate battening and insulation not to mention a lot of extra work. I am also not planning on living in this house long term so my only goal here is to improve insulation and drop heating bills which, incidentally are below the national average, even in winter but that may be because I wear a jumper rather than put the heating on. :-)

Hope this helps guys. Am I on the right track? Your opinions please?

Regards

Stuart :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1427 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1427 Sun, 16 Mar 2008 21:48:03 +0000 James Norton
1. Free / cheap (for me)

2. Paid for (for work)

J]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10663 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10663 Sun, 12 May 2013 07:13:52 +0100 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10664 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10664 Sun, 12 May 2013 10:00:01 +0100 Shevek
For example is it okay to lay mortar/concrete when the temperature is forecast for below 5º overnight, even though it's well above that during the day when you're laying it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10672 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10672 Sun, 12 May 2013 22:29:05 +0100 Shevek http://www.waterrightinc.com]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10679 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10679 Thu, 16 May 2013 17:33:53 +0100 SteamyTea It also says we are better of saving habitat and ecosystems than species.

http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21829173.000-rebuilding-not-rewinding-is-the-future-of-conservation.html?cmpid=RSS|NSNS|2012-GLOBAL|online-news

I tend to agree with it (mentioned it on the one of the wood burning threads once), but it does have consequences for housing developments.]]>