Sun, 26 Jul 2026 08:52:29 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18004 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18004 Sat, 21 Oct 2023 09:10:17 +0100 bogal2 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17996 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17996 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:14:16 +0100 bogal2 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17999 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17999 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 19:52:40 +0100 LouiseSJPP As it turns out, things are not that straightforward. The electricity in the state we live in, Navarra, is 100% renewable. The price is stupendously low: 4c per kw/hr. There is no home-generation buy-back: you can offset your own consumption to some extent, but no more. This means there is neither an economic case to be made for a solar installation nor an ecological one.
What we do have instead is a practical case. We have a 25amp mains supply, and to upgrade it would be very expensive. It's also unreliable, subject to failure in wind and rain, and sometimes for long periods, living in the wilds as we do. We remain interested in an almost offgrid installation.
However, we have many friends who all tell us how disappointed they are with their shiny new solar installations, falling far short of expectation. I don't want to make a big investment to be similarly disillusioned.
I'm wondering if there's a way to get a small installation up this winter in order to minitor performance before launching on a bigger project. The problems I see with this are the amount of kit which will either need to be bought 'full-size' in the full size in the first place, and maybe issues with measuring output in a meaningful way. Will the system have to have full load all the time in order to produce all it can, in order to measure it. How would this be done? Or can it all be modular so that putting in one panel this winter can be the start of a system which can have more panels added later? Maybe with micro-invertors, it's possible.
Have you any thoughts, advice or experience you can share?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18001 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18001 Thu, 19 Oct 2023 14:50:20 +0100 Jeff B
https://www.euronews.com/green/2023/10/14/flooded-and-forgotten-how-europe-s-disused-coal-mines-could-help-heat-our-homes?utm_source=pocket-newtab-en-gb

Great that it could be used to supply homes in areas which were once mining communities!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17998 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17998 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 19:05:47 +0100 LouiseSJPP Situated in a ground floor living space of 20m2, the prime function for the unit is to reduce humidity of the house built into a hillside, in a forest.
The second function is to provide background heat. As we spend some months away from home, having a heat source with a drying function to switch on automatically will protect the house when we're not there. When we are there, we have a boiler stove in that space, but at 5kW to room (plus 10 to water which looks after the rest of the house) a bit of heat at the other end of the space will be useful.
The third function is to provide some relief from summertime extreme temperatures and high humidity, as we've had some very unpleasant episodes recently.
The house is double glazed and the thick stone walls seem to provide a reasonable degree of insulation. I'm thinking 1 or 2kW of electrical input giving maybe 2.5 or 5kW of heating / cooling may be about the right size.
Can anyone offer advice, opinion or experience on how to size, where to buy, who might install it.
We're in Valcarlos, Navarra.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17995 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17995 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 13:22:06 +0100 Nick Parsons
Thanks Tony. Thoroughly enjoyed it]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17989 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17989 Sun, 08 Oct 2023 10:39:21 +0100 greenfinger
(Background first - the room has a vaulted ceiling (so no loft), is not currently heated, and is only used by one person. There's no kitchen.)

I've stripped some slates off my roof over the weekend to do a repair. Most of the slates are quite damp on the underside (a few are even wet, I'd say). They are also a bit flaky - still sound, but with a thin-ish layer flaking off the surface. This is both on the underside and on the top where the slate was covered by the slate above.

First and foremost, is this normal and to be expected? If it is, then great :) I'll replace the bad ones and get on with it. If it's a sign of a problem, what's the most likely cause and - dare I ask - remedy?

If it is a potential problem, there are a few factors which might be contributing and which might also solve the problem once put right. The trouble is, with the slates back on I'm not going to know in the future whether there's been an improvement. Here's those factors:

- There is currently no ventilation. The make up from inside is: plasterboard, rockwool/glassfibre, no air gap, sarking boards, felt (1f), battens, slates. I'll be putting in ventilated soffits and vented ridge, a 50mm airgap between the sarking and top of insulation, and replacing the insulation with PIR. But will adding ventilation beneath the sarking boards and felt do anything to help ventilate above the sarking boards and felt?

- Only horizontal battens were used. No vertical counterbattens beneath. So any water that makes it passed the slates has no path down to the gutters. That being said, the felt was pretty much all dry and and the battens look fine. But I didn't know if this was significant from a ventilation point of view (or whether there even needs to be ventilation between the sarking boards and slates?).

- There has been a section of plasterboard ceiling (10 foot wide 3 foot long) missing for the last year or two, along with 10" a hole in the sarking and felt. So from inside you can see the underside of the slates through that hole (the hole is from a removed flue). Given that the hole is only 10" and the removed plasterboard 10x3, could this contribute to the much larger area outside where the slates are damp/wet underneath?

Sorry for the length of the post. Any thoughts - as ever - would be most welcomed and appreciated.

Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17970 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17970 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 11:21:51 +0100 fostertom
The recently revision to BS5250:2021 was intended to fix its shortcomings, with an excellent whole-building approach to all forms of moisture, in place of the simplistic/prescriptive approach of old BS5250:2002 and :2011. It allows (prefers) use of WUFI via BS 15026, explaining the limitations of the Glaser method via BS13788:2002. Yet I see that Bldg Regs Part C (still 2013 version) still requires compliance with BS5250:2002 (two versions out of date) i.e. use of Glaser method; BS 15026 isn't mentioned anywhere in the current Bldg Regs.

So can WUFI be used at all in UK Bldg Regs? It obviously has been in useful use for years, so what's the route?

And following that, what do I have to do to gain Accreditation to use my WUFI study in a Bldg Regs application? I've done the TGR 2-day course (twice actually) but that included no such certificate. I'm asking this elsewhere, but any idea here?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17994 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17994 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 06:44:48 +0100 cjard
However, it's going in a seldom-heated 60sqm garden room gym/cinema that will be well insulated everywhere else though so I'm not sure whether upgrading the glazing is actually ever going to pay back the money, effort or emissions associated with the remanufacture. Probably easier all round to get a decent set of curtains

what do you good people think? Is upgrading DG by improving what you already have ever worth it?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17975 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17975 Thu, 28 Sep 2023 19:27:32 +0100 Victorianeco
The build is a 60s cavity construction right on the sea front.

I assume EWI would be best but at ~£110m2 it just seems it outweighs any energy savings in the long run...

£30k plus scaffold, roof extensions and so on.... we'd also like to renew the windows at a great expense.

What are people's thoughts? It's a bit of a 'slightly' different project compared to my previous mid terraced renovation....]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17434 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17434 Fri, 01 Apr 2022 09:33:50 +0100 TimSmall
The SAP database entry for it is here:

https://www.ncm-pcdb.org.uk/sap/pcdbdetails.jsp?pid=34&id=500044&type=323&mid=020014

The new model (same casing, different controls I think) is here:

https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/27741/itho-daalderop-mvhr-hru-350-eco-unit-lr-rft-low-rise-350m-h.html

It turned out I couldn't quite squeeze it in because of a combination of my house's boiler positioning, and the fact that it turned out to be a different duct position variant than I thought I'd bought (what was on the listing and what was written on the box).

I've checked it over fully and it's in new condition (with factory packaging), and works correctly.

I suspect that the housing developer had bought the wrong duct port position version for their installs, tried to fit it, failed, then ordered another set of the correct install versions, and bunged the first lot back in the boxes for the second lot.

New sensible trade cost was about £900 inc VAT I think.

I've since made my own custom through-the-wall MVHR unit myself to fit in the tight space I had.

Located in Brighton, but happy for you to arrange courier collection (I suspect about £50 - bulky but light).

Open to offers.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17971 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17971 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 20:45:57 +0100 Artiglio
I’ve a house not far from me that likes an evening firepit / bonfire, which when it’s either still or wind blows the wrong way ends up with smoke sucked in through my MVHR, this situation never occurred to me when the wiring was done and the only way to switch it off wothout going into the loft is from the consumer unit but this also isolates another room.
Plus I usually switch it off i house is going to be empty for more than a couple of days. It’d handy to have a more convenient way of turning it off. The simplest would be a wifi controllable switch/ sockett via an app. Plus i’d have the bonus of being able to turn it back on before i get home.

Plenty of options out there, anyone have any experience/ recommendations.

Many thanks phil]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17992 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17992 Sat, 14 Oct 2023 17:11:00 +0100 Artiglio
A friend has moved into a new home ( to them) and is experiencing issues with mould. It would appear that there is a bit of an issue of cold bridging associated with an rsj used as part of an extension built about 20 years ago ( in as much as the mould pretty much follows the line of the steel )
Use of a dehumidifier has much reduced the problem and they are taking some temperature and humidity readings in the room. Previous owners had ( they say) no problems , however they were a couple that were out most of the day, whereas the new occupants work from home and have 3 dogs.
They are starting to lean towards installing a decentralised mvhr innthe affected room.
Has anyone on here any experience with such units and if so have any recommendations or advice?

Many thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17991 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17991 Fri, 13 Oct 2023 14:30:05 +0100 blubb
did anyone on the forum use the Great British Insulation Scheme?
(https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/environmental-and-social-schemes/great-british-insulation-scheme)
I am particularly keen to hear if anyone succeeded in getting an external wall insulation project (at least partially) funded under this scheme?

I heard about it from a colleague today; it almost sounds too good to be true. My feeling is that it should be straightforward to get funding for "simple" insulation jobs like rolling out mineral wool in the loft or cavity wall insulation (as was the case with my colleague), but probably very challenging to get more expensive projects like retrofitting external wall insulation funded under this scheme.

Looking forward to learn more about this scheme -- many thanks for sharing your experience!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17985 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17985 Thu, 05 Oct 2023 09:25:32 +0100 blubb
I am retrofitting an MVHR into a pitched roof building. The idea was to have the inlet through the tiles at the bottom of the roof in the west-facing corner, and to have the exhaust at the top of the roof with a terminal going 1 m above the roof level. See sketch attached (sorry for the bad scan quality!).

Are there any issues with this layout?

An MVHR installer is telling me that the inlet needs to go through the wall of the building and never through the roof, which I find hard to believe.

Many thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17990 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17990 Sun, 08 Oct 2023 20:41:06 +0100 Victorianeco
Just trying to see if there is anything available for my new purchase or any loopholes to get funding?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17988 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17988 Fri, 06 Oct 2023 14:49:06 +0100 djh
About 12:50 there was a loud pop and my computer went off. On investigation just one RCD and an associated MCB were tripped in one CU. The MCB is labelled correctly as "porch socket" and has a light and a Raspberry Pi powered from it. After a quick look around I turned the RCD back on. It stayed on and power came back where it was off. After another minute or so I turned the MCB back on. It too stayed on and the pi in the porch came back on. So I have no explanation for why the power went off!

Any thoughts?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17987 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17987 Fri, 06 Oct 2023 13:44:18 +0100 greenfinger
I was under the impression hot dipped galvanised is far superior, and best for any outdoor use...

I need to do some roof repairs and bought a pack of round wire nails made by Samac, for fixing sarking boards and battens to rafters. The Samac nails are sold in several roofing stores so I presumed they were exactly what I need. But it turns out they are zinc coated. And one reviewer on Amazon says he used them outdoors and they rusted quickly.

Hoping to get started on that part of the roof tomorrow. Do I need to go and buy some different nails (if I can find some locally)? Or go ahead with what I've got?

There doesn't seem to be a price difference between the two, so if hot dipped are better, I'm confused as to why so many roofing stores only sell zinc coated round wire nails? Is there a downside to hot dipped?

Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17963 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17963 Wed, 20 Sep 2023 10:04:07 +0100 GarethC
We live in a Victorian sandstone building split into three flats, of which we're the 'ground' floor flat, but have a property below us as the land slopes away from the road.

Conservation area. Micro bore pipes, high ceilings and cornicing so little scope for insulation. Secondary glazed throughout with my own product. Four bedrooms. No chance

I'm minded to install 6 unit multi split air conditioning system to the living room, kitchen, three bedrooms and the hall, and retain our combi gas boiler for hot water and to top up the rest of the areas. I hope to reduce gas usage by at least 75% this way. Outdoor unit would be in our back garden which starts at the side of the property.

This is the point where my head starts to hurt. I realise this topic has probably be done to death and I should really just research further, but any observations about whether this is a decent plan, of there's a better one, gratefully received. Desperate to upgrade the heating system vaguely affordably.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17982 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17982 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 21:50:48 +0100 georgiegirl
We have also installed a 6kW pv array with 5kW battery storage last winter. We are currently still on a fixed tariff that is about to end, but will then switch to either an ev or economy 7 tariff. We are also about to renovate our ground floor. The gas boiler will need to be moved, but I'm more inclined to ditch the gas and so am looking for an alternative to the combi boiler.

I came across the McDonalds Electrastore thermal store and thought it sounded really interesting. It has 2 immersions at the bottom to heat from E7 or time of use tariffs and another immersion higher up to boost the top of the store during the summer for hot water requirements.

I just wanted to run my thoughts past those who know better than me please. I'm thinking that during the summer a diverter could take excess from our PV array to heat the top of the store for evening showers. Central heating won't be required so the bottom immersions aren't needed. When its cold enough to switch the heating on the bottom immersions would be activated and heat the tank at the cheap rate. Does this sound like it could work? Alternatives that don't involve heat pumps? Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17980 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17980 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 18:41:20 +0100 DannySheffield
We need a new bathroom and the fitter has strongly recommended we replace the heating system first as a) it is likely to go wrong and need work which might well involve digging into walls etc, so it's better to do that before we have a new bathroom (and plastering in other parts of the house) done. b) switching to a combi boiler would free up much-needed space in a relatively small bathroom.

I'm aware that we won't be on a gas boiler forever. My question is - is there any benefit to maintaining space for the hot water cylinder in the bathroom on the basis that we might need to move back to tanks if we move to e.g. an air source heat pump? The heating engineer said that's probably 20 years away in our 1930s house. We have a second (120 litre) tank in the crawlspace, which we'd keep either way (just because it's too much hassle to get it out!).]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17984 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17984 Wed, 04 Oct 2023 10:30:36 +0100 maxsm
a) slightly chase the pipes into the exterior wall by removing some of the cladding

b) lay the pipes directly onto the clad exterior wall

c) do something cunning I haven't thought of

thanks for any help]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17838 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17838 Thu, 11 May 2023 22:56:49 +0100 blubb
I would be very curious to hear about any real-life user experiences with that.

Two specific questions:
- is grade 316 steel good enough, or should I go with grade 904?
- any advice how to join the 6" flue liner to the 160mm Lindab spiral duct?

Many thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17968 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17968 Fri, 22 Sep 2023 10:29:03 +0100 blubb
for EWI insulation, what are the pros and cons of
a) insulating over the externally running gas pipe after protecting it by a larger diameter steel pipe rather than
b) extending the gas pipe to run on top of the insulation?

My kneejerk reaction is that b) is a poor choice because the copper pipe will act as a cold bridge and because due to thermal expansion outside of the insulated envelope it is more likely to develop a leak.

Opinions?

Many thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17983 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17983 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 23:18:20 +0100 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17976 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17976 Mon, 02 Oct 2023 13:25:46 +0100 LouiseSJPP
I'm in northern Spain, living nearly off-grid. I'm installing a back-boilered wood burner and wish to connect it to a 6 bar max steel 100 litre cylinder fitted with one coil, situated two floors directly above the stove. This will be the primary buffering circuit, and from there will run the central heating system. I'm intending to use the coil for the heat input to minimise thermal inertia and the water jacket to run the sealed heating system.

The first question is vented or sealed for this primary circuit? Code, in Spain, it seems, calls for sealed. I'm prepared to ignore this if I cannot see a way to guarantee safety without a vented system.

The stove (Flamma 14CS, 15kW, of which 10kW to water) is designed for either. It has a cold water flush in case of overheat. I have no documentation on how this works and frankly, I don't hold much faith in it. Where does it flush to, and if the flush is internal, what drives the flush through the existing pressure in a sealed system??

If I vent it, I need to choose gravity or pumped. If gravity, protecting against power loss is a null issue. I have a 5m vertical run of flow and return, but the cylinder I already have (Kospel SWK 100) is top-feed to both sides of the coil, which acts a little against gravity flow. I'm guessing if I insulate the vertical flow pipe run and leave the return unlagged copper, it will help maintain the flow.

Either way I understand I need an anti-condensation valve in the primary circuit, and in a sealed system would fit a magnetic filter / charge point and an expansion vessel. Or I could buy a ready-made unit which has these components in it. Plus pressure relief valve, auto-bleed valve and drain point.

Could anyone advise / discuss / guide me please? I need to get this right, I don't want any accidents or a system which doesn't work well.

Background: I was a professional engineer and have a fair bit of plumbing experience, but it doesn't extend to uncontrolled heat sources, hence my wariness and questions.

Edited: there was a typo in the make of stove, here is a link to the relevant pdf::

https://piecepolska.pl/data/UserFiles/Image/Flamma_instrukcja.pdf]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17981 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17981 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 19:45:20 +0100 greenfinger
Apologies as this isn't really a "green" building question... But you've been a great help in my other queries, and I'm not having much luck finding an answer on this one.

I've got a repair to do to my roof. The roof has sarking boards, with 1f felt on top, battens, then slates. I'm repairing a hole in the sarking and felt from where a flue was removed. The whole area to be repaired amounts to approx. 1.2m x 1m.

I was kindly given some felt to use for the repair. I was told it was 1f but I've collected it and it's actually torch on. In fact, I was given two different rolls. One is this stuff:

https://www.jtatkinson.co.uk/iko-glass-torch-on-app-universal-underlay-16m-61020216

The other felt is thicker and I'm guessing is used for the top layer in a torch on system? Photo below of that one....

My question is whether either of these can be used instead of 1f for the repair? I'm only looking to nail it, as you would with 1f. Or do I need to make a trip to the BM and fork out for a roll of 1f?

Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17609 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17609 Mon, 17 Oct 2022 12:18:16 +0100 Davycrocket
I have a 1 storey extension built in 2005 using dense concrete blocks with a 50mm cavity insulation board installed.


There are zero exit points that are open to the elements.

Can somebody explain why when it's windy does it feel draughty as hell ?

I've sprayed foam where the plasterboard meets the ceiling in the hope it was just a case of the plasterboard not being sealed off, yet I'm still getting noticeable amounts of air coming through electric outlets and below kitchen cupboards etc ?


Do I need to take off roof tiles and check the cavity is closed or ?

Thanks in advance

Dave]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17978 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17978 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 17:56:30 +0100 fostertom https://fundacjabrda.org/en
Great idea! Already Veronica from Dalston, East London has contributed!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17948 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17948 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 16:48:09 +0100 Artiglio
The block consists of 6 flats, 4 have combi boilers, 2 have conventional heating/dhw boilers. The block has two cold water storage tanks in a rooftop tank room. When the council changed their 4 flats over to combis, they didn’t remove the dead legs created in the feed pipes from the tanks nor reduce the size of the storage tanks. ( they claim that the cold tanks also feed toilets and cold taps in the flats, certainly doesn’t in my flat but can’t say for others but very unlikely).

Annual checks on the tanks are perfectly reasonable to which i’m liable for my share, checks on hot water temp and cold supply under hse guidance is acceptable annually and is easily done at the same time as the gas cert. However the council is saying that the block also needs testing of “Sentinel” outlets on a monthyl basis if they can get access. Frommwhat i can see from a web search sentinel points are hot outlets associated with recirculating hot water systems not closed domestic systems.
My council is well known for cosy deals and handing out a contract to check temperatures monthly is just gold plating and will be very unlikely to happen, the charge for this on my block of 6 is £117.50 a month their are 3 such blocks in the building. Nice little job if you can get it.
Is my understanding of “sentinel “ correct ? As the water is heated within the flat, it surely falls into the domestic scope.

Any help appreciated.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17956 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17956 Sun, 17 Sep 2023 11:55:06 +0100 Beau
When we converted our barn 15+ years ago I built some French doors. I have had problems with air tightness and weathering of the finish. I used larch which has been rot-resistant but still moves seasonally leaving poor sealing around the edges and especially where the doors meet each other. We were pressed for money so never considered expensive/high-spec doors nor had the time to build engineered wood doors. Now I really would like to have better doors. We are on an exposed site with the doors facing east. They get cooked in the summer and soaked for months on end in our Dartmoor winters. What would you recommend? I can build to a high standard but obviously, aly cladding of woodwork is beyond me. Thanks, Beau]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17973 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17973 Wed, 27 Sep 2023 09:31:28 +0100 Pete23 I’m just in the process of insulating some large areas of our roof which currently have no / minimal insulation. I’ve attached a pic of my plan. Any tips / advice gratefully received!

Plan is to deepen current 75mm rafters to 150mm and then install 100mm PIR in between, leaving the 50mm air gap behind.
I’ll then overboard with 25mm PIR, a vapour barrier (hopefully just taping the joints between the 25mm boards) and then a finish layer (plasterboard or cladding of some kind).

My plan is to fit 100mm PIR in between the floor joists over the top of the cavity wall so it joins nicely to the 100mm PIR in between the rafters.
We have condensation issues in the room below and in this loft room. I’m hoping that insulating over the top of the cavity wall as far as the rafters will help with this.

I’ve managed to come by a good amount of 100mm PIR - that’s why I’ve chosen that.

Does this look like a good plan?!

How far should I extend the 100mm in between the floor joists into the room? I’m thinking maybe 300mm from the inside of the cavity wall to ensure it’s cosy under there but not waste material?

Will I gain enough to justify overboarding with 50mm rather than 25mm?

Thanks!
Pete]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17919 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17919 Sun, 06 Aug 2023 17:15:22 +0100 Osprey
I am goint to have the cavity walls filled, and the roof replaced, and am thinking the latter would be a good time to fill the flues, as I should be able to access them from scaffolding outside.

So, would this be a good idea? Using EPS beads from eBay? Has anybody done this and have a ballpark figure for the amount of beads needed (I will do my own calc. but would like a sanity check! First guess is about 550liters for one full height flue)? Other comments welcomed.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17974 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17974 Wed, 27 Sep 2023 11:59:31 +0100 fostertom
I particularly like this summary incl in the article:

"Richard Benwell, the CEO of the environmental coalition Wildlife and Countryside Link, said: “Net gain [“biodiversity net gain” reqd for new housing developments] joins the chemicals strategy, deposit return scheme, extended producer responsibility, farming regulation and more in the Bermuda triangle of missing Defra environmental commitments. These delays are costly to local authorities, business and nature. That’s not to mention those that have been explicitly delayed – electric cars, home heating and harmonised waste collection.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17958 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17958 Mon, 18 Sep 2023 18:52:57 +0100 greenfinger
We had the roughcast render hacked off the stone wall of our house, and the pointing replaced with lime mortar. There are no foundations. At the time, I pulled back the gravel at the footings of the wall, creating a bit of a trench. There's hard compacted soil beneath the bottom stones. But in some places, there's quite a deep void until you get to the soil (a horizontal void). In the "worse" places, I can get my hand and wrist in there to around halfway along my forearm.

Should I look to fill these horizontal voids before all the gravel gets pushed back into place? Or is it enough to just let the gravel fill them? If I do fill them, what would be best to use? I was thinking NHL lime (3.5?) but also using stones under there to help bind the mortar and to prevent having to use too much of it. But that's a total guess and I'm all ears on what I should use, if indeed anything.

Aside from doing what's right for the building, it does seem that mice are quite keen to scurry their way into the wall (and house) through these deep voids. I've got them blocked with plastic at the moment to stop that. I'd want to make sure whatever I do stops mice getting in.

Pics below, showing the deepest and shallowest sections. And just to be clear, when the gravel is put back to how it was, these voids would be below ground level.

Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17972 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17972 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 22:22:39 +0100 Pete23 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17969 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17969 Sat, 23 Sep 2023 14:08:37 +0100 bhommels
:cry:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17966 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17966 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 17:06:22 +0100 blubb
I am looking to retrofit EWI to a 1927 solid wall brick house. I am a little bit puzzled:

- One company is suggesting to use Kingspan K5 boards [1], which are rated for outside he claims. The downside here is that K5 only comes in thicknesses up to 70 mm.

- Another company is planning to use Kingspan K103 boards [2], which are rated "water-repellent" but classed as floor boards. The upside here is that these boards come in larger thickness.

The first company with a better overall package is refusing to install K103 and insist on K5.

I should add that the insulation will go under Weber silicone-based render.

Opinions?

Many thanks!

[1] https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/k5-kingspan-external-wall-insulation-board-0-72m%C2%B2/?attribute_pa_size=60mm&mh_matchtype=&mh_keyword=&mh_adgroupid=&mh_network=x

[2] https://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/k103-100mm]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17961 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17961 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 13:50:13 +0100 Rex
The area I live in leafy Surrey(!) is undergoing quite a substantial new housing building program.

One local 'field' listed on the government web site as flood plain with once in 100 year chance of flooding, will have around 100 new houses built.

The Trust Pilot highly rated builder, Taylor Wimpey is about to open the show home.
Reading the other thread regarding EPC rating, I would guess this house will be B+ or even A. But having watched it being built, i cannot understand how that could ba achieved?

But of more interest to me, is the 'design' waste.' The show house does not have a fire place or stove but for whatever 'design' reasons, it does have a fibreglass chimney. My house does not have a fireplace or stove, and I did not fit a chimney.

Obviously just a sales gimmick. Seems very strange and unnecessary cost, but what do I know?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17965 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17965 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 12:42:50 +0100 greenfinger
I bought some 24x14 slates for a repair. They mostly already have four holes. Are they still ok to re-use? I know I have to make new holes when fitting them.

Just to add, the new holes will be lower as they're going on a roof with 20x12s. I'm just using these at the abutment, where I'll cut them down to 20" in length, but needed the 2 extra inches to reach the wall. They are a bit thicker mind, but being at the end I'm hoping they'll be ok (unless anyone thinks otherwise?).

There's also one slate with a diagonal crack/line visible on both sides. It rings ok when tapped and seems sound. Is it ok to use?

Speaking of ringing, one clearly rattles when tapped, so won't use that. The rest do ring and reverberate in the hand, but it's quite a low ring. I've got other slates from another yard that ring higher and longer. Is that normal?

A link to some photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dKah_oULvamtboKW9kKQ4Bcr-sDWaoMF?usp=sharing

Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17967 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17967 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 20:49:35 +0100 tony
I said insulate the floor 150mm 100mm batts with 50mm EPS, and IWI 80mm PIR, draughtproofing, secondary glazing, insulate bay roof

What is the difference gas heated 7 days and 7 evenings 21C, night time 14C

Any guesstimates or do we need more info]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17964 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17964 Wed, 20 Sep 2023 14:04:03 +0100 DannySheffield
Will the limewash stay on alright if it doesn't dry out fully, or is it worth pursuing drying it fully once, before it inevitably gets damp again through the winter?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17925 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17925 Thu, 17 Aug 2023 13:07:44 +0100 lineweight
Therefore there is a potential cold bridge where the steel column passes through the insulation layer in the floor. In the case of a beam&block suspended floor, this insulation layer is inevitably some height above the foor of the column.

Looks to me like there are two obvious strategies - one is to add a thermal break at the foot of the column and then wrap the column in insulation up to the floor insulation level, and the other is to try and place a thermal break in the column in line with the floor insulation. Have tried to indicate these in the scribbly drawing attached.

This is not the first thread on here, asking essentially this question. Previous threads from 5 or 10 years back indicate that even trying to do this is regarded as unnecessary or overkill by, eg. structural engineers and builders.

My main question, really, is does anyone have recent experience of this view changing at all? When in the title I say "sensible" approach what I mean is one that has a reasonable chance of being accepted in real life on a job without a massive budget, and not being built to passivhaus standards or suchlike.

If so - even if it's a bit of a compromise - what kind of details have you managed to use in this scenario?

Basically I don't want to waste lots of time overthinking something that is just going to get value-engineered out, when we get to site.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17952 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17952 Fri, 15 Sep 2023 13:16:34 +0100 GarethC
We're trying to develop a more easily-installed form of secondary glazing specifically for outsize single glazed windows common in high street shops, cafes etc..

This kind of property should lose a greater proportion of heat through their windows, and therefore upgrading the windows should reduce heating costs and emissions by a relatively large amount.

I've engaged an energy assessor to produce an EPC for a helpful cafe that has agreed to be a guinea pig. He will produce a pre and post secondary glazing EPC rating.

He's not able to help me estimate the financial savings the cafe would realistically expect to enjoy. This particular cafe uses oil filled electric radiators exclusively, and has massive windows, so we're hoping that the figures are quite substantial.

Can anyone advise how I can go about coming up with a realistic estimate of financial savings? Can't find a calculator online....

Greatly appreciate any help. Thank you!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17918 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17918 Sun, 06 Aug 2023 12:03:35 +0100 gustyturbine https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17944 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17944 Fri, 08 Sep 2023 11:11:34 +0100 tychwarel https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17959 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17959 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 10:20:37 +0100 TimSmall
Pro Clima DB+ - Intelligent airtight membrane made from paper.

Each roll: 50 metres * 1.35 metres.

non-plastic alternative to Pro Clima Intello etc.

£95 each (under half price).

Location: Brighton. Can be put on a courier at cost.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17955 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17955 Sat, 16 Sep 2023 13:28:13 +0100 Dur I am finally getting close to fitting my mvhr unit.
It has this cryptic diagram on top
I presume it shows flow direction but apart from not knowing which is external and which internal, it does not seem to agree with the picture in the install guide.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Thanks very much!!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17949 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17949 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 21:01:00 +0100 greenfinger
I've finished installed soakers to my slate roof at a wall abutment, and I've cut the chase above ready for the flashing. The chase isn't mega straight, especially the bottom line This is mostly due to bits of stone and mortar falling away. And partly lack of skill ;) On top of that, the vertical bit of wall that will be behind the flashing undulates and is anything but flat.

I've dressed the soaker upstands tight to the wall. Should I do the same with the flashing or does it not need to be dressed so tightly?

Also, I was planning to keep the bottom of the flashing about 10mm above the slates. The upstand would then be around 115mm, with 35mm tucked into the chase. Where the chase is lower than 115mm, does it matter? IE - with the lead at 115mm upstand, but the bottom line of the chase only 100mm, there will be a small void behind the lead. Is that ok as is? Or should I look to pack it somehow?

I hope this all makes sense! It's been a long day. I'll try and add some photos shortly.

Any advice much appreciated.



Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17947 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17947 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 11:31:39 +0100 adamsmith
Now I am not sure how to insulate/ detail this. Above the door there is a flitch plate beam door, thus no stud void for PIR like the rest of the timber frame. For this reason, I am particularly concerned with condensation risk in this area. Even though we don’t have the heating on yet there was already condensation on the back of the multi-foil (lucky the VCL seemed to be doing its job and the timber was dry.)

There is only about 25mm depth in the reveals, so I am considering 12mm PIR, then 12mm plasterboard. I am also considering removing the multi-foil from the wall above the door and replacing this with 50mm insulation-backed plaster board, and a new VCL?

Does anyone have any advice on how to insulate door reveals/ heads when there is little space?

Many Thanks]]>