Mon, 20 Apr 2026 13:22:10 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1152 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1152 Tue, 22 Jan 2008 15:05:06 +0000 tony
We used to be concerned about acid rain -- is this no longer a concern?

Will we need to add sulphur fertilisers to our woodlands in order to grow timber or doesnt the natural sulphur run out

Where does the acid rain fall? Is Canada sending us acid rain?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1200 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1200 Sun, 03 Feb 2008 21:30:44 +0000 guyc
Brief summary of Architect Edward Mazria's presentation, calling on buildings to be carbon neutral by the year 2030.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1196 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1196 Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:23:01 +0000 ina https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1202 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1202 Mon, 04 Feb 2008 08:26:34 +0000 Mark Brinkley
I am not looking for experimental houses, nor exemplars, merely something which meets or slightly exceeds current regs, in particular Part L which despite coming into effect in 2006 seems to have been widely ignored by building control until 2007. Has anyone on the list (or their friends) been involved in such a project? Would you like to have it written up as the benchmark house for my 8th edition? I would need plans and costings and permission to write about every (or at least most) aspects of the build process.

If you don't want to reply to this list, then email me at markbrinkley@mac.com

Mark]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1106 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1106 Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:02:04 +0000 chocolatepixie https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1057 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1057 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 10:13:19 +0000 Peter A Just started reading a book that a younger collegue has lent me "The Party's Over" by Richard Heinberg, which triggered the following question;

Which direction will the World's population migrate in the search of energy?

North or South, a quick look at a globe will give the answer, there aren't too many places to go South to! I know where I would go to maintain a civilised lifestyle the only problem is if you leave it too late there won't be the fuel to get there. Jeff what's the property market like at your end?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=907 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=907 Sun, 25 Nov 2007 09:17:42 +0000 robparry44
It is an old 2 up 2 down Cornish cottage with cob walls and a ‘new’ extension placed in the 1970s- giving a small kitchen, further upstairs bedroom –double height hall and a very cold flat roofed utility (which was the old coal store/store room) and an attached garage which sucks heat out..

We had an oil aga and poor oil central heating via radiators – all of which I have taken out.

In my rashness to get things done we have installed solar water with secondary immersion heating but now have realised that we would be unable to use an alternative water heating source in the winter without changing the new cylinder- which we are not going to do.

We are going to convert the garage and put a pitched roof on the flat utility and convert both to bedrooms and put a porch outside the hall and insulate, insulate insulate (as best we can).

For heating we currently have a wood stove in the lounge which works fine but does not get through the cob walls and the rest of the house remains cold (but not too bad- we are still in tropical Cornwall…).

I like the idea of a ceramic stove and thus my thoughts for improving the heating are

1.Ceramic stove in the hall- slow gentle heat to bedrooms and utility (which will become bedroom). But they are expensive and I have not seen any positive feedback on their use.
Would a clearburning stove be just as good?
I have to say I like the idea of the ceramic stove- but £4000 for the Toplolino seems a lot.

I would put electric underfloor in the ‘new’ downstairs bedrooms- which need new floors- so put good insulation underneath.- and as bedrooms will only have heating on for small parts of day. When wind/photovoltaic fall in price (which I believe they will) then look to use these to provide ‘clean’ elec.

Alternative might be

2. Go for GSHP with underfloor- ok for new bedrooms as likely to need new floors but not solve rest of house. Expensive installation and still needs elec to work.

3. Use wood pellets with underfloor- same arguments re underfloor – and space for pellet burner-but wood burnings good in my book. Could use radiators with this I suppose?

Any contacts for a heating engineer in Cornwall would also be very helpful.

I know some of this will have been covered before and links to any earlier threads would also be appreciated

Sorry the long missive which I think is mostly stream of consciousness- as the saying goes if I had more time I would have written a shorter letter.

Thanks
Rob]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1192 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1192 Thu, 31 Jan 2008 11:21:01 +0000 dnfh
How does one work out how large a thermal store is needed?
Also would I just set the ASHP to run full power? (it is inverter driven so can be moderated to match the load, but as the load is the next day it seems some inspired guesswork might be needed!)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1190 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1190 Thu, 31 Jan 2008 08:18:42 +0000 dropkins@phonecoop.c Thanks Malcolm]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=804 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=804 Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:07:01 +0000 stephendv
I'm planning a new build in northern Spain where the frame and floors of the house will be constructed using pre-cast concrete slabs. This means that the roof of the basement (which is planned to be used as a cool storage space) and the floor of the ground floor will be a 10cm concrete slab. I would also like to make use of the winter sunshine to heat the house passively using big windows on the south side and a thermal mass for the floor. But I'm not sure whether I can use the concrete slabs themselves as thermal mass, or whether I should lay down insulation over the concrete slab and pour some more concrete on top of that for the thermal mass.
The problems I can see with using the slab as thermal mass is that it will be thermally connected to the rest of the concrete frame (which won't be insulated) - and there could be significant heat loss into the basement. But two layers of concrete seems like an excess. Could I instead use the concrete slabs as thermal mass, but then insulate underneath them to prevent heat loss to the basement?
Any insights would be appreciated.

Stephen]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1195 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1195 Thu, 31 Jan 2008 20:40:25 +0000 nothingsimple I had loft conversion built in my 1962 bungalow some 16 years ago. Best building practice has moved on considerably since then. The room walls are created using plasterboard fixed on to 20mm batens, which are in turn fixed on to roof struts. Approx. 100mm insulation throughout, No vapour barrier is present! I want to increase thickness of insulation to recommended 270mm min. I do not have a problem with condensation/dampness at present, but should I consider using a vapour barrier paint on the plasterboard to reduce effect of condensation in loft area.
If so should the paint be applied where possible to the cold side of the plasterboard mimicking the effect of a normal plastic sheet vapour barrier]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=836 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=836 Tue, 06 Nov 2007 19:44:13 +0000 GBP-Keith Any comments, good or bad, on this project
The 'ringshell' project is aimed at producing inexpensive, minimum materials content, liveable space wholly covered with living soil capable of supporting organic growth. This is intended to be an open source project leading to a 'ready made' mass-produced solution (aka 'doughnut city'): Some of the reasoning within this text simultaneously solves prototype and mass-produced questions.

http://www.ringshell.org

The Project has now been running for many years and has proved to have many more issues than was originally envisaged. Govt & local consultations were started in 2003 following the initial development work and now winding into a prototype planning submission.

The site is a work in progress so apologies in advance as it is not as technical as it would be if I had the time: Technical backup exists as a large number of papers and sub-projects (most of which haven't been formally written up)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1193 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1193 Thu, 31 Jan 2008 19:32:24 +0000 bertie
bertie]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1178 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1178 Mon, 28 Jan 2008 08:48:59 +0000 notsogreen
Are there any calculators out there that I can use to work out where the sun will fall during the summer months?

Attached is a picture to explain the set up

Many thanks for any help]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1184 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1184 Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:48:16 +0000 harry_monkfish
So the plans state as follows:

timber joists
firring strips
low emissivity foil vapour control layer
110mm Kingspan TR31 Thermaroof with 6mm plywood upperfacing
Built up felt (change to EPDM).

As I have never installed insulation before I have a few questions which I hope someone can answer.

Is there a kingspan product suitable for a fully adhered EPDM system that incorporates the insulation and the vapour barrier?
Do I need to lay down a deck underneath the Kingspan first.
What fittings do I use to attach the insulation to the joists?
When I am fitting the fascia boards the screws, it would appear, will have to go through the Kingspan. Is Kingspan capable of holding a screw or pin well enough to hold the facias in place?

Thanks
Harry]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1185 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1185 Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:53:01 +0000 johnboy What we need to know is :
where to put membranes ?
what types?
whats the 'greenest' boarding we can use to finish the job?
thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1174 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1174 Sun, 27 Jan 2008 08:08:01 +0000 Mike George
I'm thinking of the existing house stock as a whole, many of which has retrofit insulation.

U-values measure fabric losses but take no account of how air circulation and ventilation affect them. For example, air circulation in and around dot and dab plasterboards, or in a ventilated cavity with rigid insulation boards; or in an eaves ventilated loft with mineral wool.

My starting guess is that the bottom end of the range of air/ventilation losses is least 30%. What is the top of the range?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1082 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1082 Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:39:34 +0000 Peter A https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1142 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1142 Sun, 20 Jan 2008 23:21:29 +0000 Ricochet
I am having a sg window replaced with a larger wooden dg unit.

this will entail removing the existing wooden structure below the window .
the outside leaf will be new bricks in a bit of a contrast to existing and inset maybe 5mm to be a bit of a feature. ( 6 or 7 courses).,

now to the question ... what are the realistic options( including insulation purposes) for the interior part under the window ? its a solid brick construction property so any modern materials are i suppose an improvement !.
(About 2m in lenghth and my nice new rad has to hang there .)


:beard:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1117 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1117 Wed, 16 Jan 2008 19:14:24 +0000 Martin Jenkins
The cottage has an Aarow Astra Large (that I believe has seen better days) rated at 4kW to the room and 12.5kW to the boiler, that used to drive the central heating and the hot water. Three years ago the occupiers had a 20kW Ideal Classic LPG boiler with a great big tank installed, and made that heat the central heating, but not the hot water. Rather unfortunately for us, the gas boiler broke a few days before Christmas, in the -4C cold snap, and it was just fixed yesterday, and it cost £500 (and on top of that, the day before the boiler blew, calor refilled the tank at a cost of £360). Few issues there, one of them being that apparently that boiler only costs £480 new.

Fortunately the wood stove still does the hot water, so it wasn't all a disaster.

I talked to the gas boiler fixer man about my (perhaps naive) idea that I could replace the Aarow Astra with a newer wood boiler with the latest clean burn triple play technology, such as the Charnwood Island III, hook that back up to the central heating as well as the hot water, and use a neutraliser (like the dunsley baker) or the heating innovations h2panel, both of which I found out about by reading the fora here.

Gas boiler man said "I've fitted two neutralisers and removed ten" ... "removed them because the owners wanted to fit pressurised [fossil fuel] boilers". He also said that it's hard to get the neutral point to be correct to make the systems effective.

Gas boiler man reckoned that because the pressurised fossil fuel burners are about 7% more efficient than the non pressurised ones, that's all that will be allowed to be sold in a couple of years time.

I'm looking for some advice - does anybody have any good stories to tell? Is what I'm thinking a good idea? ... should I just install a new stove and remove the LPG system? ...is there a better solution altogether?

I am trying to make sure I do the rest of stuff to make the house warm - had energy save round yesterday to estimate for cavity wall insulation and loft insulation (didn't have much confidence because he went into the loft, which has boards down, and on top of the boards, loads of boxes and stuff, and said "we'll roll down a load of 20cm insulation" and just did not even think about all the actual stuff IN the loft), and the cottage is double glazed.

Thank you for any advice!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=676 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=676 Thu, 20 Sep 2007 18:09:27 +0100 mitchino
Do I HAVE to have a ventilated loft? If so, does the ventilation have to be at the eaves, or can I just put a couple of vents in the gable end above the level of my insulation? It works with airbricks for floors, why not roofs?

If that's acceptable, can I then stuff insulation into the eaves? as I said in my earlier post, I have a roof pitch of roughly 20-25 degrees and if I leave an air gap of 50mm at the eaves, I will only be able to get about 50mm of insulation in. Or is the main thing that the insulation doesn't touch the underside of the roof? The roof was built in the 70s - it's felt covered, laid over sarking boards backed by those soft crumbly chipboard sheets that seem to provide some insulation on their own.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1182 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1182 Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:13:55 +0000 Tuna
We're replacing a farm house that is suffering severe subsidence. Though the plot is reasonably sized, we have a small (13 x 5m) listed barn on the site. As a result, conservation want to ensure that any new dwelling leaves the barn as the dominant feature which puts very tight constraints on the size of building.

The new design we're looking at is essentially a room-in-roof barn shape which we feel is excellent and works very well on the site. The tight constraints are pushing us towards SIPs panels to achieve good insulation whilst keeping the building envelope as small as possible (and most importantly, keeping the ridge height low).

It looks like it will be impossible to avoid MHRV. I'm disappointed because it will involve a costly system that will have to be designed very well to ensure even and complete ventilation (a black art I have little faith in), will require maintenance to maintain efficiency and will introduce unwanted noise to the house (we live in a very rural location, so noise intrusion is an issue). However, I've heard of problems with summer overheating for room-in-roof designs, and passive stack ventilation wouldn't appear to work without a decent loft space above occupied rooms, so it seems there is little choice.

The heating is likely to be UFH on the ground floor, rads upstairs.

So here are my questions:

Are there any other construction techniques that would allow room in roof and high standards of insulation (U values of ~0.20), without becoming impossibly thick and complicated/expensive to install? Most of them seem to work out as being 400-450mm thick and the detailing of insulation and rafters seems to be a complex job that will make it difficult to achieve consistent insulation and low air infiltration rates.

Are there any other options for ventilation that would work with this sort of design? Are there particular MHVR layouts that are more effective at distributing fresh air without transmitting mechanical and air-flow noise?

Comments and ideas are welcome. We're pragmatic about achieving a design that ensures a healthy internal environment and low carbon footprint without costing a fortune.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1183 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1183 Tue, 29 Jan 2008 19:23:54 +0000 biffvernon http://www.sd-commission.org.uk/pages/housing.html]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1179 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1179 Mon, 28 Jan 2008 21:10:58 +0000 blacksmith
I had an ecology survey done as part of the planning process and will be re-roofing. I am interested in what others have done/been required to do to accommodate bats in their build. So far I had come to the conclusion that a Boron based treatment would be the way to go but as ever I am open to new thoughts.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1155 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1155 Tue, 22 Jan 2008 21:52:33 +0000 Paul & Emma thanks
paul & emma]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1157 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1157 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 15:06:31 +0000 Ian Ashton
Obviously the compost heap will shrink considerably, but what really happens to the gobbled waste?

Will it eventually end up as fertiliser along with the sewage?

For flats without composting facilities it must be better than landfill, but if you have the option of self composting, which is the way to go?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1135 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1135 Sat, 19 Jan 2008 12:31:48 +0000 szimbler https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=972 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=972 Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:38:20 +0000 dickster
Anyone any ideas?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1078 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1078 Thu, 10 Jan 2008 10:09:22 +0000 andybeedub The new clients have requested details of the systems longevity, which I am seeking from the manufacturer, but also desire feedback from people with experience of TF buildings over a long period of time, or who have knowledge of the testing process, or who can direct me towards evidence that the TF will last for X many years.
I have received many peoples humble opinions on the matter, I wish now for more hard evidence.
Many thanks
Andy]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1143 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1143 Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:02:09 +0000 dnfh
Could it work with the ASHP heating a thermal store overnight, then the heat being extracted (Heat exchanger) when wanted?
Problems I see:
1. ASHP is perfect for 35oC UFH, but if thermal store is for both CH and HW then presumably 55oC is the minimum and COP falls to c. 2.0
2. ASHP at night is using colder air than daytime so COP falls further. Not sure what COP is for ambient 3oC output 55oC?
3. As COP falls, some of the eco benefit of ASHP disappears (but any COP is still renewable).

Does this mean that ASHP on Economy 7 at night at 55oC is no better than standard rate daytime at 35oC?
(or am I looking at quite the wrong way?)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1171 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1171 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:39:31 +0000 Tiggy
We are looking at buying a Grade II listed cottage and I wasw wanting advice on converting the cellar into a useable room. It has good height and a solid starir case into it and is very dry. There are no windows and I know that it would be best not to use conventional modern methos for lining the walls, floor and ceiling because it is better if old buildings breath as water could build up inside. The planning people say they wouldn't mind us converting it as long as we use breathable material. Has anyone got any experience of this. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.Tiggy :wink:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1173 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1173 Sun, 27 Jan 2008 00:37:33 +0000 Paul & Emma Taking into account I wish to build a cob house do i really need to cover it with insulation and wood?
the wall would be 3 feet thick without insulation so with?
any ideas?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1158 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1158 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:19:44 +0000 Rachel Many thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1168 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1168 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:30:40 +0000 tony
It effectively seems that we will all be surcharged through our energy accounts to pay for all this new investment

I think that that is is good idea but it will hit us all in the pocket

I would like us to far more renewables than that, but to reduce out total energy requirements too!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1170 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1170 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:26:27 +0000 Pingy
I know there are companies out there that sell wide cavity ties but I'm not so sure whether there is anything that has been designed to be fixed to an existing wall. I'm assuming that if there is such a thing then it would have to be secured to the existing wall by drilling, plugging and screwing. If screwing is the way to secure them then what type of screws would I have to use as I can imagine ordinary zinc coated screws will have a shorter life than the building.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1166 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1166 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:59:45 +0000 ina https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1156 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1156 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 12:00:25 +0000 albacore
We are building on the South coast of England. Our planning permission (won on appeal) has a condition removing the permitted development rights for extensions and outbuildings (T.& C.P.Act Part1, schedule 2, Class E). There is already a shed on the site but in the wrong place, and which we had planned to replace with a sturdier structure. The planners say that the permitted development rights (now removed) are attached to the new build, so don't exist until we have built (our local planning authority could compete with politicians for the ability not to commit themselves to a definitive reply to any question). Our architect seems to think that even with the removal of the PD rights, we would not need to ask permission to replace the shed.

I would like to solicit informed opinions on
(a) whether the shed replacement would need permission,
(b) whether it would be best to build the shed first and then the house, or whether that would make no difference.

Many thanks for your help and sorry again for being so far from the main subject of the forum.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1113 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1113 Tue, 15 Jan 2008 21:34:56 +0000 Paul & Emma We are considering a self build hopefully cob and other than a few things learnt on the internet I don’t know much about what is involved but I have plenty of time to find out as I would need to sell our house in Turkey first (another story).
I am after as much information as possible.
I know there is a lot of cob houses down in the south west and a fair few in Norfolk but where I am from there isn’t any as far as I am aware (though there are stud and mud).
I wonder why there are pockets of houses in some areas and why not in others.
Where I was brought up we had blue clay ( we used to make models and put them in the AGA)
The other thing that worries me is planning permission how hard will it be to get drawings through?
Anyway that’s probably enough for now but be warned there will be loads more questions from us in the future and any help will be gratefully received
Paul & Emma]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1141 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1141 Sun, 20 Jan 2008 22:51:59 +0000 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1148 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1148 Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:00:12 +0000 GBP-Keith
What do others think?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1110 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1110 Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:34:27 +0000 Lloydy B
Its a timber studded built shed with ply sheeting to the outside and then waterproof membrane then e.m.l and two coats of render.Each time i go into the place i get a strange tingling sensation in my ears and then leads to a swollen feeling in my inner ears.
Ive been told that its a mould spore of some sort but i cant find any sign of the stuff and the place was built around sixteen or so months ago so its quite new.
Then some have suggested the timber treatment but i looked into that and most stuff that they use now is quite harmless but i still have my doubts.The walls were plasterboarded but i took them all off and cut vents through the walls to let the place air...but still i get the sensation.
I once polythened sheeted the walls and ceiling and floor and noticed some condensation drops underneath the sheeting on the concrete and was wondering if maybe thats whats doing it but it feels dry to the touch .

Have had ears checked out by gp and they past all tests but i only get these symptoms due to spending time in the shed.has anyone got a remote clue...?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1162 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1162 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:25:09 +0000 Gav
My dilemma is this - I have a stone-built cottage around 150 years old which has been 'renovated' by various previous owners...

One issue I'm not sure of is how to insulate my gable end wall (my house is an end terrace workers cottage) which is made of an outer skin of stone, with a timber/stone stud wall inner skin with an approximate 6-9" air gap.

This makes this inner wall exceptionally cold, and I'm looking for a good insulation material which will not cause condensation problems...

Any ideas???

:sad::sad::sad::sad:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1160 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1160 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:54:41 +0000 smallcog
I've seen mention in another post about this book "http://www.trada.co.uk/bookshop/view/D182D0BD-FE38-4BBE-8F2D-DF34FA5EDF14/External_timber_cladding" that the member said it gave good detail about putting up cladding and mentioned that it gave details about how to fit windows. I'm just about to fit oak windows and larch cladding to a timber-frame house, http://awoodenhouse.thisbetterworld.org , and am dying to find a book that gives useful details on the window side of things. Does anyone have an opinion on the book in question or a suggestion for another ? If it is recommendable, does anyone have a copy they'd be willing to sell/rent ? £40 is a bit on the steep side but if I get confirmation that this tells all then I'll gladly cough up.

Best regards / Colm]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=939 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=939 Mon, 03 Dec 2007 00:29:02 +0000 sweevo
we've just had some building work completed on our property. Part of the work included the draft proofing of all but one of our ground floor rooms (suspended timber floor) and installing UFH (Polypipe Overlay) which should be up and running tomorrow. Every room has windows fitted with at least one trickle vent (main lounge has three) and I just wondered whether these would provide sufficient ventilation for the ground floor? We are having more condensation (windows and glass panes on doors) than I remember us having prior to the work but i'm inclined at the minute to put that down all the plaster, paint, screed etc that's been slapped about the place over the past 5 weeks and my own paranoia! The new bathroom has an extractor fan but we're still using the upstairs bathroom for the time being.

Thanks in advance :o)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1154 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1154 Tue, 22 Jan 2008 16:52:03 +0000 Mr.Terry
I am very grateful if some of you guys out there can help me to find out solution for my research..Thank you..]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1145 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1145 Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:49:53 +0000 kebabman Sorry to be so thick but it is a long time since I did O level physics at school!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=860 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=860 Mon, 12 Nov 2007 20:23:30 +0000 sainttrinians@dsl.pi The building divided into five separate heating zones and I wish to be able to control the heating in each of five zones all with there own separate time schedules.
It would be helpful if the programme is able to record bookings for each zone (as a diary / calendar for morning, afternoon and evening use with 12 months advanced schedule of dates) and use the information to control the heating. At present I am using the Microsoft Outlook Calendar for the booking which is very user fiendly but is unable to control heating (unless you know better).
I would also be grateful if member has tried to obtain grants for using renewable energy for a church property if so could they advise the best approach to make and who to? Grants seem to be available for community halls and homes etc but not churches!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1059 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1059 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 19:40:04 +0000 GBP-Keith
ACH: Air changes (usually per hour is quoted at some pressure, e.g. 6.4ACH@50Pa)

AD: Approved Document [Building Regulations]

AECB: Association For Environment Conscious Building

AGW: Anthropogenic Global Warming

ALLI: Area of Local Landscape Importance

AOD: Above Ordnance Datum

A: ampere

ASHP: Air source heat pump

BBA British Board of Agrement

BERR: Department for Business, Enterprise & Regulatory Reform (formerly part of the DTI)

BFF: Building for a future magazine (Now Green building Magazine)

BI: Building inspector

BIAT:British Institute of Architectural Technologists (now superseded by CIAT: Chartered Institute of Architectural Technologists)

BSRIA - Building Services Research and Information Association

BR: Building Regulations

BRE: Building Research Establishment

BREEAM: Building Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Model

BS British Standard

CAMS: Catchment Abstraction Management Strategies

CAT: Centre for Alternative Technology

CCA: Copper Chromate Arsenic (wood preserver)

CFC: Chlorofluorocarbon (ozone destroying gas which used to be used in insulation)

CFL: Compact Fluorescent Light

CH: Central heating

CHP: Combined Heat and Power

CIBSE: Chartered Institute of Building Services Engineers

CIRIA - Construction Industry Research and Information Association

CLP: Carbonlite Programme (run by the AECB)

CMM Confederation of Multifoil Manufacturers

CO2: Carbon Dioxide

CoP: Coefficient of performance (term used to explain the performance of heat pumps)

CSH: Code for Sustainable Homes

ctrs: centers (as in joist spacings)

CUAP Common Understanding of Assessment Procedure

DCLG: Department for Communities and Local Government, formerly:

DDA: Disability Discrimination Act

DG or DGW: double glazed unit

DHW: Domestic hot water

DPC: Damp proof Course

DPM: Damp proof Membrane

DER - Dwelling Emissions rate

EER: Energy Efficiency Ratio (used to rate air conditioners)

EPS: Expanded Polystyrene [Insulation]

ERV: Energy Recovery Ventilator

ESCO: Energy Services Company

ESH: Earth Sheltered Home

EST - Energy Savings Trust

FFL: Finished Floor Level

FSC: Forest Stewardship Council

GBB: Green Building Bible

GBM: Green Building Magazine

GSHP: Ground source heat pump

GPA: Groundwater Protection Area

GWP: Global warming potential

HCFC: Hydrochlorofluorocarbon (ozone destroying gas which is still used in some insulation)

HFC:- Hydroflurocarbon - replacement refrigerant with zero ODP

HIP: Home Information Pack

HLP - Heat Loss Parameter

HMG: Her Majesty's Government

HRV: Heat Recovery Ventilator

HSE: Health & Safety Executive

HSPF: Heating Season Performance Factor (used to rate ASHPs)

ICE: Institution of Civil Engineers

ICF: Insulated Concrete Form

IStructE: Institution of Structural Engineers

K: Kelvin (but we usually use degrees Celcius)

kg: kilogram

kW: Kilowatts

kWh: Kilowatthours

L1A and L1B: Approved Documents of BR relating to thermal performance, conservation of fuel and power, in new-build and refurb respectively

LA: Local authority

LCA: Lifecycle analysis

LCBP: Low Carbon Building Programme

LED: Light Emitting Diode

LEED: Leadership in Energy Efficient Design - US efficient building program for mainly commercial buildings

LNR: Local Nature Reserve

LZC - Low or Zero Carbon

m: metre (metric measurement)

M&E: Mechanical & Electrical

MDF: Medium density fibreboard

MERV: Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (used to rate the effectiveness of filters in forced air equipment)

MHRV: Mechanical Heat and Recovery Ventilation

MOL: Metropolitan Open Land

Natura 2000: European special sites (includes all SAC's & SPA's)

NNR: National Nature Reserve (Wildlife and/or geology)

NOx - Nitrogen Oxides or Oxides of Nitrogen (E.g. NO, NO2)

ODP: Ozone depleating potential

ODPM: Office of Deputy Prime Minister

OSB: Oriented strand board (large flaked building board like chipboard)

PAHS: Passive Annual Heat Storage

PEFC: Programme for the endorsement of forest certification schemes

PIR - Passive Infrared

PIR: Polyisocyanurate [Insulation]

PUR: Polyurethane [Insulation]

PV: Photovoltaic solar panels

PVC: Polyvinylchloride

PVCu Unplasticised Polyvinylchloride (rigid as used in waste pipes etc)

RAMSAR: Internationally Important Wetland

REGOs: Renewable Energy Guarantee of Origin certificate

RIAS: Royal Institute of Architects in Scotland

RIBA:Royal Institute of British Architects

RICS: Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors

RIGS:Regionally Important Geological and Geomorphological Sites.

ROCs: Renewable Obligation certificates

s: second

SAC: Special Area of Conservation (Mainly for habitats)

SAP: Standard Assessment Procedure

SEDA: Scottish Ecological Design Association

SEER: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (the above corrected for an idealized cooling season)

SI: System International

SIPs: Structural insulated panels

SO2: Sulpher dioxide

SPA; Special Protected Area (Mainly for birds)

SSSI: Site of Special Scientific Interest (Wildlife and/or geology)

SUDS - Sustainable Drainage Systems or Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems

TAS Thermal Analysis Simulation

TER - Target Emisissons rate

UFH: Underfloor heating

uPVC: Unplasticised Polyvinylchloride (rigid as used in waste pipes etc)

XPS: Extruded polystyrene [Insulation]

Thanks to the following forum members for help with this list so far:
Tony
Nick Parsons
LizM
Paul in Montreal
TheDoctor
Pingy
Olly
Mike George
StuartB
Ted
Jon
Skywalker]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1104 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1104 Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:21:50 +0000 James Norton Is it desirable...?
If so why...?
How is it possible...?

See also:
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1102&page=1#Item_3
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1044
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=846]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1149 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1149 Tue, 22 Jan 2008 05:37:08 +0000 Mr.Terry
Thanks everyone.]]>