Mon, 20 Apr 2026 13:22:06 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1040 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1040 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 20:13:54 +0000 dnfh Neither floor has any formal insulation, and we wish to improve the heat loss to allow heating with Air source heat pump and thus reduce our carbon footprint. While generally wishing to follow green principles, these have already been breached with no apparent problems. This poses two questions.

1. Ground floor: As it has already been impermeable for 10 years without apparent problem, is there any reason not to put eg urethane foam on top of the plaster?

2. First floor: If (again) standard plasterboard has been fine for 10 years, we can presumably put standard insulation on top of the plasterboard. But would putting urethane foam IN the cavity produce problems despite the apparent lack of current problems?

(Urethane seems to be much cheaper AND more effective than eg cellulose).]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1028 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1028 Sat, 29 Dec 2007 20:31:13 +0000 funcrusher
Anyone any experience of fault-finding on these or helpful advice?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1069 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1069 Tue, 08 Jan 2008 12:30:45 +0000 Bonty
- We have 2 feet thick external stone walls with rubble infill . These are facing seaward and are elevated, so they are fairly exposed on the south and west sides only.
- I've removed all the painted cement render from the outside and the intention is to rake out and re-point in (NHL 3 ?) lime as meticulously as possible to reduce air permeability but not vapour perm.

My confusion comes with what to do with the inside in order to keep my insulation level as high as possible and the draughts as low as possible (assuming we can properly draughtproof windows etc). After lots of reading and talking to various 'experts' (none of whom seem to agree) I have distilled my understanding to four possible methods but I'm not sure if my understanding of the actual risks of each one is correct or whether I may be missing another, better method.

Regardless of which method I ultimately use, I intend to repoint the exterior in lime. The four internal options are then :

1. Repoint the interior in lime mortar only. This will give the least insulation internally. This is the only option that will show off the stone walls (not important to us for these walls)
2. Use a hempcrete plaster. Not sure whether this will give decent insulation and not sure how electric fix will work with this.
3. Use tannalised batons fixed directly to the stone with carbon fixings. Insulation with Thermafleece and then Celonit/Building boards on top with lime plaster finish. Maintains breathability but the crooked nature of the walls will probably require cross- batons. Also the direct contact of stone walls with sheepswool insulation ??
4. Fix a timber frame (e.f 4x2) to the floor/ceiling internally but not touching the stone walls so we leave an air gap. Thermafleece insulation and then faced with Celonit / Building boards which are then lime skimmed. Not sure what effect the air gap will have - I'm assuming we seal all other draughts.
5. Other .....

Thanks !!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1060 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1060 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 22:17:31 +0000 tony
Thus we have the weird situation where one good government policy has had a knock on effect leading to a ghastly waste of energy trying to heat out door spaces.

Insane or what?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=422 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=422 Sat, 30 Jun 2007 12:11:30 +0100 adon30
Back in October I purchased a 1930's build semi detached. After spending the winter in a really cold bedroom I have decided to do something now that I have got around to redecorating.
Being a 1930's build all it has a solid wall construction so cavity wall insulation is out of the question. I added an additional 170mm to the existing loft insulation to save energy. However most of the cold air came from around the bay window so this is where I have decided to start.

The construction is as follows. Downstairs there is a solid brick wall on which sits the downstairs bay window. On top of this there is a wooden framework that extends into the bedroom with the bedroom window on top of this. I have removed all the plasterboard from the inside as this was in need of replastering anyway and I need to be able to fit the insulation. On the outside is a layer of felt on top of which roof tiles are hung (same construction as a roof, just vertically). Now that I have removed the plasterboard you can feel a lot of air movement in the void.
A picture of the construction is available at this link: http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/adon30/others/?action=view&current=BayWindow1.jpg
and the void going down to the downstairs bay : http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/adon30/others/?action=view&current=BayWindow_Void.jpg

So basically I have a layer of plasterboard with an air gap then a layer of felt covered with tiles. No wonder it was so cold!

The plan is to fill the void from the top of the downstairs window to the bottom of the upstairs window with celotex/ kingspan then re-cover the inside with plasterboard. However nothing is ever that simple and a I now need help with a few questions I have.

1) The gap between plasterboard and the outide is 70 to 72mm. My local supplier of Celotex/kingspan has thicknesses of 50, 60 and 70mm. Now do I just go for the thickest piece that will fit or do I need to leave any sort of air gap in the void?

2) Where the bay angle changes there are two pieces of timber that are very close together (see photo). At this point it would be impossible to fill with any solid form of insulation. My plan is to purchase some cans of expanding foam and fill the gap up that way. I have no idea if this is suitable as insulation or is the best method. Any ideas much appreciated.
Close up photo of wood detailing: http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/adon30/others/?action=view&current=BayWindow_Close.jpg

3) I have various options also when it comes to refitting the plasterboard. I was thinking of going for a thicker plasterboard (12.5mm) however I can also get plasterboard with an additional 20mm of polystyrene insulation attached (30mm total insulation). Has anyone used this plasterboard? and is it any good as far as insulating properties?
I have an additional 50mm underneath the internal window ledge so the thickness is not a problem.

4) I have read in another post about fitting pvc sheeting between the plasterboard and the insulation. Would I need to consider to consider this in my project?

This is just the start of my bay window insulation. Once finished I will be tackling the void between the roof and the ceiling of the bay. One step at a time though :)
Any help much appreciated, Aidan]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1029 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1029 Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:06:34 +0000 Jan https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1063 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1063 Sun, 06 Jan 2008 22:12:28 +0000 richy
I'm interested in finding some soloutions to providing renewable energy using scrap heap materials.

In 1975 there was a YTV program where this dude built a green dwelling, and everying was from common materials or scrap, there were solar panels made from old radiators painted black and put in glass/timber cases.

Anyone got any similar ideas? making wind turbines from old motors? can we bury old radiators and use central heating pumps to get heat from the ground?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1058 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1058 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 14:20:28 +0000 stephendv All the formula's were taken from a single book, so I'd like to confirm whether my calculations are correct or not. If anyone has access to PV sizing software, I'd really appreciate a second opinion.
The data is:
Location: Barbastro, Spain (Huesca, LLedia, Lerida or Zaragoza are nearby cities)
Daily elec consumption: 6.7kWh
System should be designed to supply 100% of the requirement up till October (the winter months will be augmented with a generator).
The battery bank should supply 3 days of autonomy (typical recommended depth of discharge is 50%).
According to my calculations, I'd need a PV array with 2221 peak watts. And a battery bank with 3617 Ah of charge at 12V.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1064 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1064 Mon, 07 Jan 2008 08:11:21 +0000 tony
pages 7&8

1) I dont agree with the notion that replacing floor boards with chipboard or laying hardboard will stop draughts both ideas are wasteful of materials and only address a small part of the draught problem.

2) No attempt has been made to include a vapour barrier on the warm side of the new insulation indeed they say one should not be used!

3) no air sealing barrier. No advice on sealing between floor and skirtings -- this is very important

4) It is prety good othersise with some nice pictures]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1031 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1031 Sun, 30 Dec 2007 19:33:01 +0000 Pontius Roof is a new green-oak framed structure with external insulation R value 4.7 then slates. Well, think that will do for now.... Thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1043 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1043 Wed, 02 Jan 2008 08:19:46 +0000 biffvernon https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1056 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1056 Sat, 05 Jan 2008 00:38:53 +0000 Nick Parsons
For the floor I propose to run tyvek over and between each joist so that there is a tyvek-lined joist/ply box to fill with insulation. Having taken up about 56mm with battens and ply, we have about 170 left for insulation/air gap. I think I should probably leave a gap of at least 25mm (I often say 50 but am pushed to get sufficient insulation in) below the floorboards. I hardly ever use a vapour barrier above u/fl ins, and have never had a prob. I could, however, use another layer of tyvek, so we end up with a tyvek/warmcel sandwich.

For the roof, it will be underdrawn with an insulation board (pl'bd and extr poly) of appr 50mm, plywood baffles at appr 1m centres between the rafters to prevent settlement to the eaves and help to maintain an air gap and, I reckon, a layer of tyvek over the top, appr 25mm below the top of the rafters to maintain an air gap. This should then be vented both sides at the eaves.

The walls are of 300mm spaced studs between 150 posts and these will be fully filled with warmcel.

Comments and suggestions gratefully received.

I am awful at photos, but hope to post some on the syec web-site soon.

Nick]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1052 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1052 Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:13:26 +0000 manoka
How and with which materials is it recommended to build a ground floor slab free of thermal bridging on a cool basement?

Cheerio
manoka]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1053 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1053 Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:36:57 +0000 Jeff B
The annoying thing will be that having spent a fortune on insulation, heat pump, solar panels etc. within a short time the government will be giving away massive subsidies to encourage us all to install them and manufacturers will be turning out such kit at bargain prices. I guess I can console myself with the fact that I have done my bit to save the planet and, the way oil prices are likely to be going, probably enjoyed a more rapid pay-back time than I could ever have dreamed of.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1036 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1036 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 13:58:25 +0000 Peter A http://www.hawkin.com/?PAGEID=20670&CTL_CAT_CODE=1167&STK_PROD_CODE=00570&aid=WEBG01
If this can generate hot water that quickly with minimal fuel how about a bigger version to supply the home, some sort of furnace at the base with air intakes and the "big kettle" immediately above?
Is there anything like this on the market?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1026 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1026 Fri, 28 Dec 2007 10:13:29 +0000 StuartB
http://www.primedesign.us/self_heating_houses/pahs_article_1.html

This seems a very simple and cheap way to provide ventilation probably with the help of a solar powered fan. Any known problems with this approach?

Cheers]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1051 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1051 Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:05:02 +0000 GBP-Keith https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1050 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1050 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:26:32 +0000 jamesingram to use for a washing machine and downstairs toilet below
I'm not sure what level I need to insulate it to, to protect it from freezing
I was thinking of.

25mm closed cell pipe lagging on all pipes
150mm mineral wall surrounding tank

does this sound enough

thanks for your thoughts

JIm]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=882 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=882 Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:13:51 +0000 pdurkan@yahoo.co.uk
We're considering laying so-called solid wood flooring on our ground floor - placed on top of that green cellulose board stuff which would be on top of the existing mix of concrete and suspended timber.

We spotted some nice pine floorboards at B&Q, but the chap there said we'd get condensation if we did as I've described. He then said it would be ok if we bought those small multi-sized tongue & groove solid wood floor bits they sell. Now I'm confused; wood is wood surely, and in terms of condensation behaves similarly whether in 6 foot or 1 foot lengths?

Is it also the case that we need to lay the wood at 90 degrees to the original floor boards? This is inconvenient, as obviously we'd like to follow the joists for nailing in such flooring.

Any help/opinions much appreciated.

Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1038 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1038 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:06:04 +0000 nigel
http://www.dovre.co.uk/html/canopy-2700-gas.html]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1048 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1048 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 07:52:42 +0000 tony
I would like to see no VAT on LED and CFL bulbs with immediate effect.

AND an additional levy of £1.00 on incandescent light bulbs -- yes each.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1021 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1021 Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:34:35 +0000 bobn Is this lack of frost normal or have the builders installed the converted loftspace insulation incorrectly?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1049 Thu, 03 Jan 2008 08:59:29 +0000 TheDoctor
Happy New Year!

I have been lurking here for a good while now, but have now joined up, as building works are a lot more imminent!

I am extending / part re-furbishing a Scottish Steading.

All the new, and part of the old will be built well beyond current building regs in terms of air tightness, insulation, triple glazing, etc etc.

However, due to financial constraints and other issues, i am not able to fully upgrade all of the older part of the building to my preferred level.
The new area is all underfloor heating, but the old (just bedrooms, so never more than 16 - 17 degrees) is served by conventional radiators.
I am insulating and draft proofing beneath the existing floors in all but one room, and will be replacing all the existing central heating pipe runs and solving all the fit sized holes in the floor.

so, question,
do i lay the new central heating pipes above the insulation quilt and breather membrane in notches in the joists, through the insulation in holes through the joists, or well lagged and underneath the whole lot?

My brain suggests they should be above all the insulation to ensure any heat loss makes it into the house rather than the floor void.

I have read numerous threads about insulating and draft proofing floors, but cant find reference to pipe-zones.

thanks!

The Doctor]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=990 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=990 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:42:13 +0000 Tuna
1. Live in a building that was designed from the outset to be 'green'. Let's blur the green definition to mean that the house has some design element or feature that is unusual or uncommon in standard domestic builds for the area in order to reduce energy consumption or environmental impact. for example, significantly exceeding building regs for insulation, or using solar heating for hot water.

2. Are in the process of building 'green' homes for themselves or clients.

3. Are attempting to specify a 'green' design with the realistic intention of building at some time in the future.

4. Supply 'green' technology or consultation to clients who are actively using them to produce homes?

5. Have retro-fitted green technology to their current home in order to make it more energy efficient?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=824 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=824 Mon, 05 Nov 2007 11:40:44 +0000 lusstor
I had wanted in a prefect world to fit a geothermal heat pump and under floor heating.... However... This is sounding more and more unlikely.... :cry:



the things troubling me, and I don't know if you can advise;



Can I even fit a heat pump, regardless of how much insulation I have, is my house just not efficient enough, how do I tell?



Can I fit under floor heating on top of the existing concrete and just have the floor an inch or or more higher? (the existing floors are disgusting and the skirting is knackered so its no loss)



I assume hot water can be heated as well?



What sort of costs am I looking at?



Any advice?
:confused:

HELP!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1037 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1037 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 15:21:36 +0000 21grantbridge
First post so please be gentle. I am halfway through a barn conversion. I have basically built a timber framed house inside the existing walls. I have an external breathable vapor barrier between the frame and the stone, which has been repointed on both sides. I have a minimum of 250mm between the inside of the frame and the vapor barrier. Until reading this forum I was going to use a 85/105mm kingspan from seconds and co at a cost of £4.50m2 for the floor, walls and loft. Is this the most cost effective sollution? I am Ok using it for the floor, but having taken in what everybody has said about drafts, and as the product is rigid - how do you make it draft-proof on the walls and ceiling if its going between trusses and frames? I had originally intended to build a floating roof and cross batten it for slating, but as I am reusing all the old slates, which are several different sizes and split if put into dressed battens I had to go for sarking.

put in a few words ... With 250mm to play with and a limited budget what is the most cost effective and if possible green insulation to use?

Any advice greatfully appreciated.

James]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1007 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1007 Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:42:08 +0000 johnwoods I have just purchased a house and its freezing!!
The heating seems to warm the place- only to go cold again within minutes of turning it off.
I checked the problem out and its the windows!
I came across this site www.window-insulation.co.uk
I have ordered four packs- has anyone used this item?
How effective is it??
Would appreciate any help at all!!
Cheers
John.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1030 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1030 Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:45:45 +0000 john13
Why can’t every city use these? This will help cut greenhouse gases and cut back on our dependency on foreign oil.

Youtube clip on these turbines
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmBNtoXFX5o

website
http://www.capstoneturbine.com/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1025 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1025 Fri, 28 Dec 2007 09:01:43 +0000 Mike George
After all of the pastic packaging I have seen recently, I had a good look at some of the environmental information on the stuff we are recycling. I was surprised to see the following on a bag of potatoes:

"This bag will fully degrade to carbon dioxide, water, organic material and a small amount of inorganic residue after 4 yeatrs in the domestic waste system. This compares to conventional plastics taking over 100 years to degrade"

I wonder how much plastic associated with building degrades in this way? I've heard that some insulations for example 'offgas'

Is this approach specifically targeted at food packaging? and is it a good thing or not, given that CO2 is a by-product of the chemical reaction?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1034 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1034 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 00:45:18 +0000 bertram https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=964 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=964 Thu, 06 Dec 2007 20:37:04 +0000 david We tend to have our lights on more when the daylight time is shorter and this period coincides with lower temperatures and having the heating on.
As most heating systems are thermostatically controlled and the heat output from incandescent bulbs contributes to space heating the boiler will consume less fuel.
When low energy bulbs are fitted the boiler will run for longer.
We have the disposal problems of fluorescent tubes and only succeed in moving part of the heating load to the boiler.
Is there a better way of looking at this?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1003 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1003 Mon, 17 Dec 2007 18:11:54 +0000 Kparry I have a 12 year old 3 bed room detached house with a large conservatory extension and converted garage.It already has UPVC glazing,fitted about 3/4 years ago.The insulation is as fitted when built-about 100mm in loft.No cellar etc.
It is costing huge amounts to heat and some parts of the house are always cold.
The boiler is due for renewal and we would like to do a loft conversion and open up living room into the converted garage space.Given the extent of the changes we plan i was hoping we could improve it's Green credentials at the same time.
I know little about it,but like the thought of wood burning stoves/heating,renewable solar energy,insulation and making the place airtight(how).I have concerns over cavity wall insulation as i thought the cavity had a purpose.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1027 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1027 Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:34:53 +0000 turbocabbage
As I'm sure you're aware, cement production results in a huge amount of CO2 emissions: about one tonne of CO2 per tonne of cement produced, according the the papers I've read, linked below. A possible alternative are geopolymers, which are formed by reacting alumina-silicate products with an alkaline solution. They can be formed from any source of alumina-silicates, which are extremely common, both in the earth's crust, and in some industrial waste. The huge environmental advantage they have over cement is that their synthesis emits no CO2 of itself. Additionally, it requires much lower temperatures and consequently much less energy. They also have numerous structural advantages: concrete from geopolymeric cement is subject to 80% less shrinkage than concrete from Portland Cement, is faster setting and stronger than, and has very high heat resistanc (1000 to 1200 degrees without losing function) and low thermal conductivity. In addition to this it is ultra-durable, and can withstand thousands of years of weathering. All of this information I obtained from the papers below, and I haven't found anything disputing them. Geopolymers have been around since the late 70s and have been commercially applied in some areas, but they are far from replacing cement. If they are so preferable, economically and environmentally to ordinary cement, why haven't they replaced ordinary cement? I have emailed the geopolmyer institute regarding this, and got a very brief response, asking me refer to their FAQ section (I already had, and hadn't found an answer). Thanks a lot, peace

sources:
http://www.cptechcenter.org/publications/sustainable/lisustainable.pdf
http://www.geopolymer.org
http://espace.lis.curtin.edu.au/arch..._GC2__2006.pdf
http://www.buildingforafuture.co.uk/autumn05/ordinary_portland_cement.pdf]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1014 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1014 Thu, 20 Dec 2007 09:54:40 +0000 jon
Option A, when annualised over its lifespan, has a projected real lifespan of 60 years, a total embodied CO2 of 58 tonnes CO2 output from construction (together with renewals over its lifetime) and thus an annualised CO2 output of 12.9 kg/sqm/annum

Option B, when annualised over its lifespan, has a projected real lifespan of 100 years, a total embodied CO2 of 97.5 tonnes CO2 output from construction (together with renewals over its lifetime) and thus an annualised CO2 output of 13 kg/sqm/annum

Option C, when annualised over its lifespan, has a projected real lifespan of 150 years, a total embodied CO2 of 114 tonnes CO2 output from construction (together with renewals over its lifetime) and thus an annualised CO2 output of 13.1 kg/sqm/annum

All these options require heating & other energy at an annual cost of 25-40 kg CO2/sqm/annum (so pretty good perhaps 88kWh/sqm/annum). There is a good chance that this can be reduced with time as most of the CO2 supply is in appliances and relatively little in heat. (About 50-60% is heat & water)

Option A is 5% cheaper than B to build. Option C is 10% more expensive than B. We know that all of these options will become more expensive over the coming decades but that Option C will become more significantly expensive to construct than either of the other two.

Option A is least carbon now. Options B and C have the same annualised cost as A over their lifespans. However, there is an argument that B and C are more sustainable because they will provide homes for future generations at a lower financial cost (and, of course, they will still be standing in 70 years time whereas option A will not)

Edit: (thanks to Bowman) To the developer, all options are equal: If more money is spent on option C, the buyers are known not to fully appreciate whole life cost and will therefore only pay for a building roughly in proportion to the cost of the build.

Edit: (thanks to CWatters): The lifespans shown are based on average historical figures for the building types. However, an individual building could last significantly longer than shown.

Which should be built?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1024 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1024 Thu, 27 Dec 2007 17:12:28 +0000 roughbert https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1022 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1022 Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:36:50 +0000 mikejd
The system was installed and commissioned in November, worked for about 10 days albeit at a very low temperature which was the subject of the previous post. It hasn't worked since except for short periods as various 'solutions' were tried to get it working. When it stopped after about 10 days working the heat pump showed an 'Error level 2' fault. There were two suggestions to sort this - one to turn off and back on, the second was to clean the strainer. Both allowed the pump to start working again but in both cases only for less than 24 hours.

The next suggestion was to provide a larger ground loop pump. This was installed, the system started and shut down 'Error level 2' after about 9 hours. Next the ground loop was repressurised as the pressure has dropped - same result. The latest suggestion is that there is insufficient antifreeze allowing formation of ice crystals and slowing the flow. They have calculated that 79 litres of antifreeze is required; they supplied 75 litres with the system which has already been put in. The MD of the company, who I am now dealing with, has now gone on Xmas holiday until 14 Jan so I assume there will be nothing happening until then.

There has been a suggestion that the problem lies with the ground loop borehole which may not be fully grouted. If so the solution would have to be sorted with the borehole contractor, letting the 'installer' off the hook. At the moment I can't think of any way to check the grouting of the borehole, short of excavating and redrilling.

The 'installer' appears reluctant to actually come to site to try and investigate although I have now written to them to say that this is what I think they should do. I am also considering trying to find an independent engineer who could check the system, although this would obviously cost me more money. So far I have not named the 'installer' but I may do this soon if I get no satisfactory solution and I will certainly not be recommending them to anyone else.

I would be interested in any comments/advice anyone can offer.

Mike Davies]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1019 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1019 Sun, 23 Dec 2007 09:42:23 +0000 biffvernon http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/climatechange/research/carboncost/pdf/background.pdf The Social Cost Of Carbon And The Shadow Price Of Carbon: What They Are, And How To Use Them In Economic Appraisal In The UK
Economics Group, Defra December 2007

It was the front page story in yesterday's http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2007/dec/22/climatechange.carbonemissionsGrauniad
and there are summaries from http://www.defra.gov.uk/news/2007/071219e.htm] DEFRA

http://www.defra.gov.uk/corporate/consult/cc-instruments/index.htm Consultation open till 19th March '08.

I wonder what the implications for the building industry will be.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=813 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=813 Thu, 01 Nov 2007 09:23:13 +0000 stephendv https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1011 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1011 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 22:28:29 +0000 tony
But what about schools? Often flat roofed without any insulation! From a virtual satellite they would appear as white hot square patchworks in every town.

Heating is paid for directly bu all of us -- akin to putting radiators in our gardens and told that they must be turned on!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1016 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1016 Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:54:43 +0000 tom.harrigan
This arrangement is unsatisfactory for several reasons, the most annoying of which is the way the 4x2s are hung off the oak beam - it really is a mess! It's also going to be quite difficult to run services as the joists are so shallow, the sound insulation is non existent, and the floor is a tad bouncy. I had resigned myself to ripping the whole lot out and putting in a new floor. I don't want to box in the beam as it's one of the few period features I have, and there's not much headroom as it is.

Then it occurred to me that I could just put another floor on top of the existing one. I could mirror all the joists and glue and screw both floors together. This would allow me to improve the aesthetics of the beam/joist join. Then I would get a less bouncy floor, have room to run services and save lots of money and time, and there would be much less waste. If the wife objects to the floorboard look of the ceiling (which I think would look quite nice painted white), I could stick something onto it even if it's only paper or do the usual plasterboard thing (eventually).

Does this seem a sensible idea, or is there something I've not thought of?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1020 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1020 Mon, 24 Dec 2007 12:03:52 +0000 GBP-Keith
Special thanks needs extending to the very regular forum contributors, a few of who can be seen in the top posters list in the left column of the forum homepage but the regular contributors list is far too long to include everyone.

We all know who they are as they consistently over the past year have offered us all (and each other) useful and practical answers and tips to our questions.

Tony has managed to get himself to the top visitor and top poster position so congrats to him. Still work to do though Tony to kick me off the top discussion starter position.

Other forum users please feel free to add your praise or ideas for further improvement on this festive thread.

Thanks again - Keith

:flowers: :grouphug::cheer::rolling::swingin::thumbup::crazy::jumping::clap::boogie::heartsabove::kissing:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1009 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1009 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 11:11:29 +0000 ally.gill 1. How often would the pump need power and to what quantity?
2. Can rooftop supply (pv array/turbines) provide the electrical energy required at reasonable cost/payback? (based on avge uk wind and solar figures)
3. Could a 100 dwelling development provide localised renewable heat and energy within achievable cost parameters to omit reliance on gas and centralsied power, provide an oversupply of electric feeding the grid to fund maintenance costs, and provide affordable homes with the required level of profit margin to satisfy shareholders.

And as an aside if we are in an energy crisis can the government introduce a power ban (similar to a hosepipe ban) to prevent this ridiculous waste of electricity on christmas lights outside peoples houses?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1018 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1018 Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:30:18 +0000 tony
Will have MHVR but I worry about design with two much air flow/wasted ventilation heat.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1004 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1004 Tue, 18 Dec 2007 12:45:25 +0000 Paul @ Carbon Free
I've been asked to provide a quote for a heat pump for a very modern and energy efficient home, but due to the design being far from normal my usual software and a meers calculator are not accurate enough. I've been given U values for the floor, walls and ceiling but don't have the system to turn this info into a heat loss figure.

If any of you guys have any idea how I could do this your help would be greatly appreciated

Kind regards

Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1015 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1015 Thu, 20 Dec 2007 13:24:08 +0000 Neil Adam Hall
Could anyone propose a standard m2 rate for replacing single glazing with double glazing in a large office block?

Im estimating a potential £150,000 15 year energy saving if this was done, and just wanna see if its feasible.

Cheers!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1000 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1000 Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:33:13 +0000 Jeff
If I am air tight and heavily insulated, could a stove (assuming a suitable supply of wood) be sufficient? If so how do you 'move' heat around the house to where it is needed?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1010 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1010 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:20:12 +0000 skywalker
Actuallly I'm fairly sure that by the time I've finshed the hidden stuff incoming air will be confined to a dodgy back door (which will be replaced with a nice home made oak job and fitted to a new frame rather than thrown at an old one), a monstrous UPVC creation where a front door with sidelights should be (again to be replaced ASAP), the three air bricks in our nominal bedrooms (2 upstairs & one downstairs used as an office) and a new airway I put in behind our woodburner as once I have done the front room floor there will be no other free air flow into the room.

Our horrible UPVC double glazing has no trickle vents but the new velux type windows I am fitting (in each each bedroom) have. I will be changing the existing windows but not until I have saved up some money - probably at least a couple of years if not longer and will either make my own/buy oak ones (We like Mr Vernons Yorshire Sashes) or get super duper scandinavians - haven't decided.

The 'bedroom' airbricks are are 9"X9" and I'm inclined to keep them but put manually closeable vents on the inside. With single unit heat recovery ventilation units in the kitchen and bathroom to mitigate for smells/moisture. The house is a small dormer bungalow with a floor area just over 80m2 and a volume of around 260m3.

Does this make sense or should I go for whole house (or in our case all but one room due to ducting issues) MVHR or stick with passive/manual ventilation.

Thanks in advance .

S.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1008 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1008 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 09:14:00 +0000 ally.gill https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1005 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1005 Tue, 18 Dec 2007 16:53:05 +0000 Bowman
A book I found inspirational: No Nettles Required by Ken Thompson]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=984 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=984 Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:00:37 +0000 GBP-Keith
Also I want to organise a debate on heat pumps. I'm looking for two representatives (one from the for camp and one from the against camp) to tough it out in print. Anyone interested? OR suggestions of someone who I can contact that would be happy to get in the ring would be welcome please.]]>