Fri, 01 May 2026 16:32:01 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=984 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=984 Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:00:37 +0000 GBP-Keith
Also I want to organise a debate on heat pumps. I'm looking for two representatives (one from the for camp and one from the against camp) to tough it out in print. Anyone interested? OR suggestions of someone who I can contact that would be happy to get in the ring would be welcome please.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=997 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=997 Sun, 16 Dec 2007 17:19:46 +0000 Peter A That aside perhaps it's good to just heat what you need at a moment in time. Could be used in conjunction with air to air heat pumps?
Has anybody come across a good electric instant water heater that is suitable for the small home?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1001 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1001 Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:48:44 +0000 tony
Today I saw seven men watching one man working on the roundabout near my home ant it reminded me of this tendency amongst road crews.

I wish that was good enough to post a photograph!

I used to moan at my lads at work if one of them was watching another doing a job, two or more watching a sack-able offence.

Is this waste of human resources, time and presumably our money ungreen? or just a fact of life?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=799 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=799 Mon, 29 Oct 2007 16:01:15 +0000 Chris Wardle
I've just been pricing them up and one site I looked at said they weren't suitable for main lighting in a room. Aside from the energy saving angle, the flats have 11ft ceilings and the tenants will need steps to change the bulbs. As LEDs are supposed to last much longer I thought I might not bother providing steps and just change the bulbs myself between lets.

Would appreciate some advice if anyone has any experience of using LED lighting.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=998 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=998 Sun, 16 Dec 2007 20:08:49 +0000 stephendv The documentation available on the freely downloadable CD includes case studies of passivhauses built in Southern Europe and the UK. These demonstrate how the passivhaus concept can be adapted for a wider range of climates, and includes information on summer cooling techniques. It also includes a free demo of the Passive House Planning Package software (excel spreadsheet) - the fully working version is also much more affordable for self-builders (200 USD).
http://www.passive-on.org/en/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1002 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1002 Mon, 17 Dec 2007 12:21:11 +0000 amanda https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=999 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=999 Sun, 16 Dec 2007 20:53:00 +0000 Jeff
My first post so be gentle. We are about to buy a detached bungalow sitting half way up a hill in a village in North Yorkshire. The bungalow is circa 1970's and is a wreck. It is cavity wall construction with no cavity closers. The inner skin is cheap clinker type block and the outer skin is cement brick with a stone style riven finish giving an uneaven outer surface. South is 'up slope' & we will get a lot of wind hitting the house from the exposed North. Think of this as a shell. The oil fired boiler (a relic), the wet rad heating system, the old immersion heater, the rotten single glazed wooden windows, minimal loft insulation, etc are all going. This is a complete renovation job. While I have a history in new builds, renovations, conversions, etc this is the first time I have deliberately set out to 'go green'. I'll search & start other posts on heating, roof insulation, double glazing, etc but for the minute it is the wall insulation I'm scratching my head over.

First off I will be insulating & making air tight as much as I can. I do not want to dry line inside as this will cut room sizes too much. As I see things my options are:

1. Rebuild the outer skin in thermal block and wet render - not my preferred choice.

2. Batten, add a vapour barrier and clad with timber or other material (options?). If I do this how about additional insulation? Any material laid against the uneaven bricks will leave air gaps - what about condensation? The only thing I can think of that wouldn't is a mat material or applied foam. Due to the property shape I could end up with a really nice chalet style exterior as a by product of improving the insulation ( I am not a fan of the dated mock stone style finish).

3. I would also like to fill the existing cavity to improve insulation. Any reasons not to (especially if I clad externally and this then becomes a 'middle wall')? Blown rockwool, foam or any other suitable materials? What about sagging and or damp transferrance?

Any advice gratfully received - especially the technical point on condensation behind any solid external insulation.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=982 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=982 Thu, 13 Dec 2007 12:22:20 +0000 Chris Wardle
However, running a heat pump 24/7 controlled by a room thermostat will increase peak load electricity consumption on the grid. This is something to be avoided in the UK where increases in peak load demand are supplied by fossil fuels.

What I want to know is, can you run an air to water heat pump at periods of low demand (i.e. at night) and store enough hot water to heat a home during the day through rads or underfloor heating and supply the hot water demands? Will the COP be badly affected by using the cooler night air as a heat source? I guess a GSHP would work better but I'm put off by the installation cost of these things. I'm thinking in the context of back up heating in a well insulated property by the way.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=996 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=996 Sun, 16 Dec 2007 00:03:03 +0000 stevemaxwellimp
OK that's the background...

We will re-lay the floor tiles and bricks, we will not have fitted carpets.
We think that underfloor heating in this property is a good idea (especially as we have dug up all the ground floor anyway).
We may heat with ground source heat exchange, wood burners, or wood pellet boiler -- not decided yet.

Questions...
1 Is a damp proof membrane under the floor necessary? The old building did not have one, but then it did smell damp, and is damp. I am inclined to think that a dpm will direct the damp outwards towards the walls, causing problems in the clay lump walls.

2 several options for the rest of the floor construction have been suggested: compacted agricultural chalk only (with a lime screed to lay the tiles and bricks onto); limecrete only (with a lime screed to lay the tiles and bricks onto); and both limecrete ad chalk together.

I am sure that there are many other options.

Any ideas?

Steve]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=988 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=988 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 09:45:38 +0000 mitchino
I would estimate we need around 10-12KW heating plus hot water.

Initially I'm looking at connecting a Clearview 650 with boiler (either the 27,000btu or 40,000btu unit). We have a free wood supply from our neighbours sawmill and our 6 acres of woodland. I would also at this stage be looking at connecting a conventional (condensing?) oil boiler to provide back-up. Eventually I intend to add solar, and ultimately an immersion run from a micro hydro system (producing around a constant 1KW).

What I'm finding most confusing is information regarding thermal store sizing. There seem to be two camps regarding this, one saying I need a smallish store of 250-350Litres, and another recommending a monster 1500Litre store.

What size of store do I really need?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=992 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=992 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:49:57 +0000 CarolDavis2 Builders have tried lots of things: plan A was to raise the capping stones and put sections of lead underneath, but of course the stones were too fragile and would have been ruined if they'd been moved. So instead these builders put lead sections above each slate, and sand-and-cemented them into position. They also repointed the gaps between the capping stones to make sure that they weren't letting water in that way.
The next builder said that those lead sections should have been under the slates - I've seen both methods in this area.
The next one suggested covering the sandstone cappings with lead to prevent water penetration, but when it came to it they used a waterproof stick-on stuff instead (not quite as unsightly as it sounds, but still noticeable in a conservation area.
Nothing works - it's getting worse. And yes, I can seal it from the inside, which works for a while, but in the meantime it won't be doing the brick and lime mortar any good, will it?
Builders have told me that it was coming through the porous sandstone capping stones; now they say that it can't possibly be, and must be coming through the wall itself - but all walls have been repointed and (in the case of the worst wall) sealed with a waterproofing paint.
So where is it coming from, and how can we stop it?
all ideas gratefully received
Carol]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=770 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=770 Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:00:21 +0100 joconnor I want to minimise space heating, yet provide apartments which have comfortable internal temperatures throughout the year (the Architect will be providing a thermal model in Ecotect). Quality of the build, budget, minimal maintenance, trying to meet code level 3 of the CSH. I am looking for suggestions for the structure. (note we are more than likely to opt for a steel frame).
We have almost ruled out complete timber frame due to the impossibility of making the exterior faces water-tight adjacent to the party wall buildings and also the problems of over-heating.
Other considerations are i. exterior face of masonary with internal face of timber frame and a faily deep screed on the floors and dense concrete interior block walls; ii. tradional cavity, beam and block floors and stud partitions; iii. some form of heavy mass modular system for the exterior walls, which is weather-tight.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10 Wed, 31 Jan 2007 22:08:50 +0000 tony
Should passive solar design be mandatory for all public buildings , offices and schools?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=991 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=991 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 19:20:30 +0000 tony
But will it work? Socially, environmentally? Realistically?

Remember shared oil tanks on estates with meters to each house? Didn't work in my town, too many rows. Tower blocks -- same story by and large

Is it carbon neutral? Belching out wood smoke untreated while it is working and when it breaks down then what?

Seems to me more like a marketing exercise and not enough like building for the future.

What green features will these big builder houses have? Rainwater recycling you cry -- OK great what else?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=993 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=993 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:50:08 +0000 jamesingram
Whats the general opinion on boilers in garages, loft , etc

Specifically Gas central heating boilers,

Are/can they be that well insulated ,that no heat will be lost until the flow/return, DHW
reaches the insulated space/house , point of use

or is it more sensible to keep them inside the insulated space


thanks for your thoughts


Jim]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=986 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=986 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:24:19 +0000 pbj Any feedback on operational issues, particularly at low ambient temperatures, running costs, corrosion problems in coastal areas, etc. would be most welcome.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=983 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=983 Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:14:49 +0000 dickster
Can this be right? It would mean no batteries, no two way meter, no fuss, no bother!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=989 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=989 Fri, 14 Dec 2007 11:42:28 +0000 Jomi https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=900 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=900 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:06:28 +0000 KewJumper
We have a reasonable-sized house with a decent area of pitched roof (pointing SE and NW, mostly, unfortunately) in a suburban part of the Great Wen. It's a 2-year-old house on a new-ish estate, already equipped with much CO2 reduction kit (UF heating, full insulation, latest condensing boiler, etc). I'd like to reduce the CO2 emissions from electricity use still further. I'm currently evaluating solar Domestic Water heating (and PV if the installation costs of combining the 2 are sufficiently advantageous), but I have neither the expertise nor the time to do a proper assessment of the specific requirements myself. I therefore have 2 questions for all the experts out there:

1. Is there a reliable (ie not commercially biased) organisation or consulting body (preferably based locally in SW London) who can assess a particular location and give a sensible outline of the work required for Solar DW and PV?
2. Does anybody have any experience and tips regarding the planning process for such applications?

Any suggestions welcome...]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=974 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=974 Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:22:44 +0000 CWatters
Apart from obvious things like inflation, am I missing something here?

Is it possible to justify Photo voltaics?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=980 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=980 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:50:13 +0000 GBP-Keith Royal Welsh Showground, Builth Wells


Professionals and self builders involved in planning, designing and constructing greener homes and buildings are being urged to book a date in the diary for an unmissable event.

The Greener Homes and Buildings Exhibition is being staged at the Royal Welsh Showground, Builth Wells. Packed with seminars and leading exhibits, it will be held over 3 days:

Friday 7th March 2008 - Trade and Professionals Day

Saturday 8th- Sunday 9th March 2008 - Public Days

The first day of the exhibition is designated a Trade and Professional Day and is aimed at updating developers, architects, specifiers, planners and policy makers on the latest developments in sustainable building as well as offering practical and professional advice. The second and third days are public days with the full range of exhibitors on display, practical workshops and advice helpdesks for individuals who have self buliding or renovation projects.

To book to attend please visit http://www.greenerhomeshow.co.uk or telephone Greener Homes and Buildings on 0845 6024087.


Ticket information

Advance tickets for the public days can also be purchased online, with adults charged £6, children under the age of 16 and senior citizens £2 and families - two adults and two children under the age of 16 - £13. Tickets purchased at the gate will cost £8, £3 and £19 respectively.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=979 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=979 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 13:34:09 +0000 Neil Adam Hall
OK, although a novice, I have been appointed to calculate the Steady State Heat Loss of an old University Building, which I have done. The dimensions are 117m x 17m x 18m. The fabric is 60% glazing (single, U-value 5.6), 40% low insulated brick/block wall (U-value 1.5) with a flat, insulated roof (1989m2, U-value 0.5) and the floor is the same area, U-value 0.3.

Allowing for an air change of 1 per hour and the total volume being 35802m3. I allowed for a design temp of +22 degrees and -1degree.

So, on this analysis I have worked out that the SSHL is 723,637 W/K.

But... and here is my dilemma... Being a novice, I'm not really sure what this means in practice! I know this is the worst case scenario that the heating system is designed for, but is this over a time period? Per degree day? I think I'm getting in trouble with units... I'm really confused here, I hope someone can explain the meaning of the figure I have come up with!

Also, from examing the buildings energy consumption, typically 200,000kW/h a month in winter, my SSHL calculation seems pretty high!!

Please guys, any help or comments would be extremely appreciated. Thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=978 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=978 Wed, 12 Dec 2007 09:17:57 +0000 MrT
The only roof elevation I have available is orientated at ESE, the pitch is about 30 degrees, hardy optimal.
Would I get any benefit from a solar panel on such a roof.

Would it better to continue to use what we currently have, with cold rooms. or go for the back boiler/ solar combo and back it up with a immersion. I use solid fuel for space heating so already have the logs.

I want to avoid gas as we are unconnected at the moment but can see the a gas boiler maybe moree efficient.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=976 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=976 Tue, 11 Dec 2007 16:12:38 +0000 cereeve
I have the following thoughts:
- Is it worth cutting Celotex boards into rectangular strips and pushing into the dormer roof void, which I have access to from the loft?
- Could I hire the machine that is used for cavity wall insulation and use this to fill the dormer voids?


Any thoughts gratefully received.

Regards,

Chris]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=876 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=876 Fri, 16 Nov 2007 06:03:02 +0000 notsogreen
My question is, what is the most environmentally friendly solution to heating and cooling the place? The only service we receive is a 3kw electricity supply although I am led to believe that it can be upgraded to either a 4.5 or 6Kw supply. The internal area of the living accommodation will be 150sqm but there is about 10,000 sqm of land with it. There is no heating system nor plumbing of any sort at the moment.

I want to avoid installing radiators if I can because they do not look too attractive against the stone, so under floor heating may be the way. However, I have heard it can take 24 hours for UF heating to heat a place properly, so I am not sure. It would be nice to have some more instant heat. Also these type of properties get damp from Oct to Mar, so need something that provides a cheap background heat if I am not there.

Given the amount of sunshine in this part of Italy, a solar option may be the way to go with a back up boiler (but not powered by gas or oil). Ground heat pumps in theory sound good but I am not sure on cost grounds and also they still need electricity to run, which is a lot dearer in Italy.

Then there is the need for cooling, I do not need full on AC but it would be good to have something that reduces the temperature by say 10C.

As you can tell I have gathered lots of snippets of info but need someone with experience and common sense to point me in the right direction. Help!

Thanks in advance

Robin]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=971 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=971 Mon, 10 Dec 2007 14:07:27 +0000 StuartB
Cheers]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=949 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=949 Tue, 04 Dec 2007 19:08:04 +0000 Mark Siddall
The research is trying to figure out if the Garden City model of land tenure lead to overall increased housing affordability in Letchworth. So any research that evaluates this aspect would be of interest (along the lines of: What is the percentage of income people in Letchworth spend on housing? How many times the average annual income are average house prices etc.).

There is an awareness that Letchworth isn't exactly a CLT, but it is probably the longest running scheme of some form of communal land tenure, hence the interest.

Any help from those in the know would be appreciated

Mark]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=963 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=963 Thu, 06 Dec 2007 18:58:29 +0000 Mark_Owen
Kind Regards

Mark Owen]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=966 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=966 Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:43:50 +0000 IDW
I have been given an estimate for cavity wall insulation of approx £300.

Given that I already have thermal blocks is the cavity wall insulation likely to make a worthwhile difference?

I noticed while looking around the house that the gutter has become detached from the downpipe on one side of the house. It may have been like this for some time and the surrounding wall is very wet (no problem inside the house). Obviously I need to get it fixed but is it safe to go ahead with the cavity wall insulation or should I leave it a while to dry out?

The insulation salesman/surveyor reckoned it was no problem because the bricks are quite dense and the fill material will be teflon coated.

I would be grateful for any advice.

Thanks,

Ian]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=881 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=881 Sun, 18 Nov 2007 09:43:39 +0000 richy http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd6/timber-works/november2007114.jpg]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=956 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=956 Wed, 05 Dec 2007 10:48:06 +0000 PatW
Does anyone know of a good supplier, preferably a local one using local timber?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=969 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=969 Sun, 09 Dec 2007 15:47:48 +0000 bot de paille
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-6783454727978317271

Below is a copy of the text that goes with the video:

With 3.8 billion years of research and development on its side, nature has already solved problems that human designers and engineers still all struggle with. In this inspiring talk, Janine Benyus provides fascinating examples of biomimicry -- the way humans mimic nature in the products we build and the systems we implement. And because the champion adapters in the natural world are, by definition, those that can survive without destroying the environment that sustains them, biomimicry can contribute to the long-term health of our planet.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=950 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=950 Tue, 04 Dec 2007 19:44:03 +0000 larneylee
I Have just recently joined this forum and I would like to say hello to everyone. Straw Bale building has consumed me the past few months and now I am in search of a course or centre that hopefully someone can recommend? There are numerous ones on the net but a recommendation would be more benefical. I live in the Tyne & Wear area and was also wanting to know if there are any training centres up this neck of the woods at all? or any projects anyone is working on that I could give them a free hand? I am also a plumber and I would like to offer my skills for free to any interesting green projects, preferably over the weekends.

Look forward to any information or advice.

Lee
'Greenday Plumbing']]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=965 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=965 Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:14:35 +0000 tony
So once we have a roof on it -- wood and thatch -- we light a fire and the whole thing warms up the stones heat up then it will be warm at night without a fire?

Anyone else for a roof on Stonehenge? Please dont start saying " what if the roof caught fire" -- they all lived in things with thatched roofs back then.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=961 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=961 Thu, 06 Dec 2007 10:21:42 +0000 ckemp982@btinternet. Chris]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=929 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=929 Fri, 30 Nov 2007 17:45:55 +0000 Rod@BHF
At Bushey Heath farm on Tideswell Moor we have been showing groups around the site to explore the issues we have faced and how that may affect others who are starting out with installing renewable technologies (Wind Turbine and Ground Source Heat Pump) and other sustainable developments like Rainwater harvesting. We are running a couple of guided tours of the farm with refreshments and a home made lunch.

The tour includes meeting our turbine installer, discussing grants (and possibly meeting a grant manger from the Peak Park) with a plenery session to discuss specific details visitors may have. The demand for these visits has been quite high, the last one was for 31 people! We are now limiting this to 20 to make it more managable. if you are interested mail or call us - all contact details on our website. Next day is planned for late January 2008.

Thanks Rod - www.busheyheathfarm.co.uk]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=955 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=955 Wed, 05 Dec 2007 00:25:20 +0000 Nebuchadnezzar
New to this so bare with me. I have moved into an old house which has been neglected in the art of protection from heat loss. I am keen to reduce my carbon footprint and have done all the usual - insulate the loft, insulate the extension roof, draught proofing doors, double glazing and cavity wall isulation. I still have an unresolved issue and could do with some advice - or ideas to implement next.

I have insulated the lot which accounts for the flat part of the ceiling in the upstairs rooms, but part of the ceiling is sloped and makes up of some of the external roof. It's still loosing a considerable amount of heat from here. A diagram will explain this best - please see attachment.

The red bit represents the insulation I have already put down in the loft. There is a cavity that I would like to fill to prevent the heat loss demonstrated but it is very difficult to get access to - narrow - about 20cm by 50 - 60 cm - the gap between the joists of the roofing structure, and seemingly about 2 metres in length (about as far down as I can see). I have tried pushing down 10 cm thick polystyrene boards but it's very difficult, they keep getting caught and there are things down there that prevent pushing - it's not been very effective.

My last idea would be to tumble down polystyrene balls until full (I remember years ago my dad had his cavity wall insulation done with these). A concern is if this space needs ventilation but more importantly I have no idea where in the UK to get hold of a substantial quantity of these balls cheaply - the only avenue I have at the moment is bean bag fillers ata cost of £20 per 6 cu ft.

Does anyone have any suggestions?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=927 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=927 Fri, 30 Nov 2007 17:00:33 +0000 Daniel Any examples, suggestions would be brilliant. Thankyou]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=958 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=958 Wed, 05 Dec 2007 20:21:09 +0000 fostertom The 4 projects are:

Sustrans' Connect2
Sherwood: the Living Legend
Black Country Urban Park
and last but not least

Eden Project: The Edge

My money's on Eden: The Edge http://www.theedge.org/subPages/thinking.htm for its massive world-wide eco-educational potential.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=962 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=962 Thu, 06 Dec 2007 13:58:24 +0000 howdytom How about it Biff ????
tom]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=960 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=960 Thu, 06 Dec 2007 04:53:46 +0000 rickaand53
A few questions answered would help.

I live in Oregon, USA. Does this group mostly relate to issues, products, and developments
in the UK, or UK/USA, or is it more worldwide ?

If it's mostly UK, not so much USA, can anyone recommend a forum more related to the USA ?

Does anyone know about using " RICE HULLS " ( waste products of processed rice ) FOR INSULATION
in residential building ?

Any input on WOOD BURNING FURNACES as a primary heat source?


Any feedback appreciated. Thanks.

rickaand53]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=957 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=957 Wed, 05 Dec 2007 12:14:45 +0000 Paul_B
Can we compost more, obvioulsy eductaing the populous is an up-hill battle (judging by the two weekly collection of rubbish) but what about all the manure from stables, cut-crass, hedgerow cuttings etc?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=940 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=940 Mon, 03 Dec 2007 13:34:38 +0000 Pingy
1. Accept a long pipe run and waste a lot of water.
2. Install a small electric water heater for the basin and fit an electric shower.
3. Wash/shower in cold water.
4. Do away with the ensuite and join the queue for the bathroom.

None of the above are particularly attractive so I thought you'd be able to help with an alternative or convince me one of the above is better than the others.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=948 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=948 Tue, 04 Dec 2007 17:01:31 +0000 Nanuls
Today I've been having a discussion with a colleague of mine regarding the cost in terms of CO2 emissions, and energy used to produce large scale (250ft+) wind turbines.

Does anyone know how long it would take for a single wind turbine to 'pay back' the CO2 emitted during its manufacturing, construction (plus infrastructure e.g. roads etc), transportation, maintenance and decommissioning?

Have any 'independent' studies been carried out on the subject?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=935 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=935 Sat, 01 Dec 2007 23:01:37 +0000 workaholic https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=945 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=945 Mon, 03 Dec 2007 23:05:06 +0000 tony
Even without holes to the outside the full combined air leakages of the walls are directed into the floor void.

Boots only stop air infiltration when perfectly fitted and not crashed off by plasterers or carpenters but do not stop air leaking through the block work itself.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=947 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=947 Tue, 04 Dec 2007 14:03:42 +0000 isobel - I have heard keywords such as 'boron based, non biocide and water soluble' mentioned, but am still very much in the dark on this subject.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=953 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=953 Tue, 04 Dec 2007 20:24:46 +0000 Mike George
Any ideas?

Thanks in advance, Mike]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=944 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=944 Mon, 03 Dec 2007 21:17:46 +0000 workaholic https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=942 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=942 Mon, 03 Dec 2007 15:04:32 +0000 CionMac a) brick/mortar
b) logs
c)weber haus
d)yurt
e)sips
f)icf.
In the end I am almost going with ICF build. Is there anyone out there who can definitely say No to this plan with good reason of course.]]>