Sat, 15 Aug 2026 22:27:50 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=917 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=917 Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:28:19 +0000 arthur https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=915 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=915 Tue, 27 Nov 2007 22:18:31 +0000 workaholic
As it is not fixed to the ground will it avoid requiring planning permission?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=913 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=913 Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:56:08 +0000 howdytom With all the talk of zero carbon new homes, I think its about time we tackled the massive, existing, wasteful dwellings, starting with the most wasteful. A retro fit stove may not be the final answer, but it would be a simple, quick step in the right direction. We have a lot of fifty's council houses in this area and most have open fires with highly inefficient back boilers. The council is spending thousands, fitting cavity wall and roof insulation when all the heats going up the chimney. I don't consider central heating as essential, if the main room has a reasonable heat source and the house is well insulated. In fact having to get of your butt to light it or stoke it should be seen as a positive step toward fuel reduction.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=904 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=904 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 17:26:15 +0000 thumpin206 We do not want to use air dryer. We want to use a natural process. Someone has mentioned
waterfalls. The calcium in the water actually draws moisture to the waterfall. Does anyone have
any info or can enlighten me on this subject. Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=898 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=898 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 08:28:52 +0000 Ding https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=906 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=906 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 21:00:08 +0000 pete710
Plumbers & heating engineers are rare a rocking horse poo down here so I am going to do as much as I can myself & get it sighned off before going live & will get advice along the way.

My 2nd problem is my Dads house, they spent 5k having an oil burner fitted 5 years ago, it was always too hot & they used to have the windows open with the boiler on all the way tough the winter as even set on the lowest setting it was too hot, they have since given up on the oil as they are skint & have decided to jump on the free wood wagon from my brother.

We are removing the old oil burner & they have bought a wood burner with a back boiler, they used to run about 3 rads off it aswell as hot water, my question is how easy is it to change them over & how & also would they need to replace the current liner which was fitted with theoil burner? I heard that they would need to change the tank in the attic to a stainless one, is that right?

any help or advice on these would be very welcome.

thanks for reading
pete]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=905 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=905 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 20:06:58 +0000 tony
How easy is this?

VERY! or even easy peasy

Hows that you ask? Simple --- by not defining what they mean by "Zero Carbon" !!!!!!!!!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=902 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=902 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 15:05:30 +0000 Mike (Up North)
Anyone feelings on massiveness in radiator heating systems. Following on from the discussions on high or low mass in construction and the debate between UFH and radiators (assuming you need these of course).

I was thinking what are the differences between low water content Steel or Alu radiators and the more volumous cast iron or steel column radiators. The bigger the water content the longer to run upto temp, but when the room stat/TRV/timers switch off the water contained within the unit has more heat to dissipate to the room. Greater thermal inertia.

I was trying to see if one or the other was more or less suited to a relatively well insulated situation as compared to not well insulated Victorian pile, but couldn’t decide whether fast heat up was more or less desirable in either situation, or if the faster cool down was more of a problem in either.

In the colder situation fast warm up is good, but as heat losses are higher the cool down will be quick too. So I thought higher mass, but you’d be colder waiting for the warm up. It’s basically the UFH argument again I suppose.

Any thoughts – just interested.

Cheers Mike up North]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=901 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=901 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 14:53:22 +0000 Mike (Up North) I was looking at a product called Sempatap which is a flexible dense latex liner that is pasted onto internal walls in 5mm or 10mm thicknesses. I was looking at this to improve insulation/condensation proofing in difficult areas. Its flexible so can be pasted to curved areas. That was why I was looking at it. I have recently come across a number of curved areas that span across rooms in roofs, and are otherwise inaccessible. Also alongside some narrow stairs. However, the only retail price I could find seemed to be very high. The U value isn’t that good (although I believe the product is good for sound deadening) it looks like the stuff yoga mats are made of.

I discovered that the thin 2mm thick paste on polystyrene is still available, 2 layers of that has the same insulation as the 5mm sempatap (not much I grant you – but everything helps).

Isn’t this polystyrene stuff a fire hazard? I didnt think these types were still available.
Are there any other very thin flexible materials that can be used?

Please don’t suggest rip it all out and start again, I can’t make the oldsters live in the garden till next Easter, even if they could afford the job

Thanks in advance]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=803 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=803 Tue, 30 Oct 2007 11:25:15 +0000 Dawn.a
If you would like more information on this role or any similar roles please email me on dkenworthy@allen-york.com or call me on 0870 870 8986 (ext) 219

Dawn]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=911 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=911 Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:05:57 +0000 Oliver i'm finishing the drawings for a stainless frame for a large glass roof (heat store) on a new build scheme, all the complicated bits are done but i'm stuck at the last hurdle, the 50x50x6mm angleine frame needs to be well fixed into the 6 x 225mm timbers around the edges of the opening........ however i can't use normal coach bolts as the inside of the angle needs to be flush(ish) to not disturb the glass..... Does anyone know of a type of countersunk (i imagine hex headed) coach screw or anything else that may surfice?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=894 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=894 Thu, 22 Nov 2007 15:03:53 +0000 martinlta
I have installed and tested a low cost woodstove adapted to make it clean burn and added a carefully positioned back boiler. The back boiler feeds by gravity into a thermal store from which mains pressure hot water is generated via a plate heat exchanger whenever the store is above 50C. If below this hot water is heated by my gas combi boiler as per usual by switching solenoid valves. I have now added a second plate heat exchanger to feed heat into the gas central heating circuit which is enough for three rads. My gas use is now down by 80% as the wood is free! and I do not require heating in kitchen were the stove is and in the room next door. I reckon the cost of the whole install was about £600 using as much eBay parts as possible and pluming it in my self. I have an option of solar input as the tank has a standard coil in the lower half. Just waiting for the price of evacuated solar heating tubes to fall before completing the system]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=908 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=908 Mon, 26 Nov 2007 06:59:04 +0000 MR.AdamRAdam Adam.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=903 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=903 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 11:33:04 +0000 Peter A
http://www.building.co.uk/story.asp?sectioncode=331&storycode=3100360&featurecode=12103&c=1

Where do those figures come from would like to see the full story.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=887 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=887 Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:45:36 +0000 GBP-Keith
24-25TH NOVEMBER 2007

· Are you planning to renovate your house and want to do it in
the most environmental way possible?
· Do you want to slash energy bills and make your house warmer,
brighter and healthier?
· Are you selling your house and want to improve its poor
energy rating?
· Do you want to prepare for life in the climate change century?

18 eco-houses in Oxfordshire (14 of them in Oxford city) are opening their houses to the public to share the techniques, products and possibilities of eco-renovation. This is a superb opportunity to see a wide range of approaches and talk to the house owners directly about their experiences.

The houses cover a wide range of challenging types -including a garden office, a flat, a former council house, a terraced Victorian house, a 17th century cottage in a conservation area, a listed Regency villa and a 1980's developer house.

All of them have dramatically reduced their energy and water use. Some have used standard materials that could be bought at any builders merchant. Others have used new technologies including straw bale and sheep wool insulation, solar panels, wood burners and a heat pump that draws water from the Thames.

For full details on the open houses, and their locations and open times visit

http://ecovation.org.uk/htmldesigns/ecovationopenday.html]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=893 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=893 Thu, 22 Nov 2007 13:29:34 +0000 workaholic https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=664 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=664 Sun, 16 Sep 2007 15:20:20 +0100 jons
Thanks

Jon]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=899 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=899 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 10:45:04 +0000 The IET Is this something the members of this site would be interested in attending?
The seminar will include presentations from leading figures in the building and power industries and will end in an animated and engaging networking session as both sectors come together to discuss the issues faced.
If you would like more information on the seminar, please visit the website: www.theiet.org/carbonfootprint.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=842 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=842 Wed, 07 Nov 2007 23:39:55 +0000 richardh
Thanks
Richard]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=897 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=897 Thu, 22 Nov 2007 17:11:15 +0000 tony https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=886 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=886 Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:40:35 +0000 EdK There didn't seem to be a section for ridiculous ideas so I am guessing that this is an ok place to mention this.

I live in Guernsey and it is pretty damp here the whole time. Alot of the houses are old granite ones and the traditional approach was to have an Aga running to keep the perceived moisture levels down. I grew up with them and love them...

However, I guess that they are the car equivalent of a 4x4, guzzling oil like nobodies business.

My gran has an electric one (Economy 10 or something) which is a more indirect way of using fossil fuels (no direct personal combustion), but still pretty bad for the environment. I think that the local electric company is looking at a tidal solution but that will be a while away.

Anyway, it got me thinking. My gran's Aga is much like a very large night storage heater - a bunch of bricks that heat up and store energy and then release it for cooking.

Surely there must be a way to heat up that amount of bricks (or whatever the material inside is) to the correct temperature by solar energy? Would PV panels work or would you need to use some kind of evacuated tube/water solution?

As you can see I am blissfully unaware of all the details but hoping to find out alot more about solar power in general (will post another thread on that). So if you are more practical in this area please let me know if this exists or is possible or even is desirable.

Cheers
Ed]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=191 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=191 Fri, 13 Apr 2007 18:59:12 +0100 coolcampervans We have just bought a cottage with black wooden beams.
We want to paint them Oak brown in colour.
We do NOT want to sandblast so painting is our only option.
Your advise PLEASE?
Many thanks
Simon and Suzanne
Derbyshire]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=314 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=314 Thu, 24 May 2007 09:17:52 +0100 Alec Ryrie
We're buying a house in the north of England, 1000 feet up in the Pennines - a mix of solid stone and cavity insulated walls, about 190 square metres. Currently it's heated by a coal-fired stove powering radiators, and that's going. Question is, how do we heat water and space.

GSHP impossible due to configuration of land. No mains gas, obviously. Planning permission unlikely for solar panels (we're in an AONB). We looked at wood-burning systems, but we don't have anywhere to season wood, and the level of hard labour required makes it impractical. Wood pellet systems are prohibitively expensive to run. So we were thinking that, like everyone else around there, we were going to have to fit an oil tank and have done with.

Then we came across this business of _air_ source heat pumps. What we're thinking of now is the following:

- Panasonic make air-to-air heat pumps, which they claim blow warm air around your house enough to heat it adequately. I've used air-duct heating systems in the US and have no problem as such with them. What makes me nervous is (a) their claim that one or two such units can effectively heat a whole house; (b) are they going to make so much background noise that I go postal; (c) can they really extract enough heat from the northern English air? They claim that they can function without backup as long as it is more than -5 degrees outside, which (if true) covers enough of the year to be able to manage with a wood-burning stove and electric radiators for the rest of the time.

- And the 'Altherma' system which is being marketed in the UK by Daikin claims to be able to use an air-to-water heat pump to be able to provide domestic hot water, with an immersion heater backup for heavy usage / very cold weather. That seems more straightforward, but again I don't really know if it can do what it claims. Nor what it costs (they are very cagey about that).

All this seems very appealing, both in carbon-footprint terms and in reducing running costs. And since I have to shell out to fit a new system of _some_ kind this year, it seems an obvious opportunity. But I am nervous about being an early adopter of something which is obviously very new in Britain.

Can anyone reassure me, or warn me off?

Thank you!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=874 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=874 Thu, 15 Nov 2007 11:45:37 +0000 geegee
Has anyone any advice on the most cost effective generator and fuel type and would such an alternative be viable and reliable for constant use? Would I need a back-up generator for the generator?! Anyone any experience of using one in a rural house/hotel or could point me in the right direction with suitable web links?

Many thanks.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=892 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=892 Wed, 21 Nov 2007 14:17:34 +0000 albacore Any ideas/suggestions as to the best way to construct this would be very welcome.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=883 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=883 Mon, 19 Nov 2007 10:30:03 +0000 Bowman
http://www.ochsner.com/

Our next refurb, due to start in a couple of weeks is definitely having exhaust air heat recovery, and with gas unavailable, any thoughts?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=890 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=890 Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:05:34 +0000 Aguillar
Option 1; Underfloor heating running off a wood burning stove with back boiler.
Think we need an accumulator and pumps - concerned that pumps may require too much electricity given we are not on the mains and don't yet know how good a wind site we have here.

Option 2; Pumped radiators running off a wood burning stove with back boiler.
Don't need an accumulator but still need a pump, same concern with electrical requirement.

Option 3; Thermosyphoning radiators running off a wood burning stove with back boiler.
No pumps required but due to restrictions on all pipes [min 28mm copper] needing to rise along their entire length from boiler to radiators it is not possible to have radiators in some rooms without pipes crossing in front of windows a few feet up and having a couple of radiators half way up the walls..

Option 4; Two wood burning stoves without radiators [well one would have a back boiler for heating domestic hot water and would have a radiator for pressure relief]
Nice and simple to install but will the heat percolate through the rooms enough? Building regs require us to put sound insulation in the internal walls and we are worried that this could prevent heat moving from heated rooms to unheated rooms.

Any comments/ suggestions very gratefully received!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=859 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=859 Mon, 12 Nov 2007 19:26:41 +0000 davidnettleton My company builds swimming ponds and our structural walls are often made of the usual reinforced hollow blockwork. Where the pools become very big and the shape is very freeform and 'pond-like' it seems a little overboard working like this, especially if the soil is quite hard and cohesive. Gabion walls must be a good option if their is a lot of hardcore onsite, or crushed rock available locally if there are aesthetic concerns. I have considered many of the modular precast systems. One of the best ideas seems to be precast concrete L- blocks, which are very quick to assemble and good for walls with curvature, but use a lot of heavy machinery and are still made of concrete.There must be some clever systems using the soil itself, such as filling recycled tyres, however the surface of such a wall is very irregular. Can anyone help build a clear picture of the current tried and tested options?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=829 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=829 Mon, 05 Nov 2007 22:15:53 +0000 Pingy https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=888 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=888 Mon, 19 Nov 2007 21:09:07 +0000 biffvernon
http://www.politics.co.uk/news/opinion-former-index/environment-and-rural-affairs/100m-boost-green-homes-$481722.htm

"Announcing the Green Homes Service this morning, environment secretary Hilary Benn said: "When it comes to cutting your carbon footprint, the old adage 'there's no place like home' really is true.
"We need to make this as easy as possible for people to do. There's a lot of help out there in the form of grants, advice, and other assistance, but it’s hard to know where to start."
He said the new-look Energy Saving Trust would act as a one-stop shop to extend the use of renewable energy at home and improve efficiency.
The government wants 150,000 homes to be generating their own renewable energy by 2011, but recognises householders will need government help to meet this goal.
Mr Benn continued: "The Green Homes Service will cut through the confusion by providing a one stop shop, including a green MOT for your home and a green home makeover."
Housing minister Yvette Cooper is also backing the initiative, which launches on April 1st 2008. "]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=879 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=879 Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:05:53 +0000 biffvernon
Looks like they're spelling things out a bit more clearly this time.

But Oh Dear! Look what the Grauniad has found:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2007/nov/17/climatechange.carbonemissions1]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=884 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=884 Mon, 19 Nov 2007 12:51:09 +0000 Paul_B
What is the best way to feel these holes and stop the loss of heat and draughts from below into the loft space?

Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=869 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=869 Wed, 14 Nov 2007 15:22:32 +0000 Edwin I am hoping someone can advise me as to the dos and don'ts of this combination.
I am installing an Ice Energy heat pump running underfloor heating and hot water and want to integrate
a wood burner with back boiler to run 5-8 rads and provide hot water back-up.
Two initial questions:
1) Does anyone have technical plumbing information for this kind of set-up?
2) Does anyone know if the HWAM Classic 4 stove is capable of taking a back boiler?
I'm trying to find a boiler which is utility/contemporary in style but with the boiler option....
I'm trying to avoid the traditional looking boiler such as the Charnworth......
Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=866 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=866 Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:45:33 +0000 June
How best to deal with this attractively?!

June]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=880 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=880 Sat, 17 Nov 2007 19:17:43 +0000 spence I have recently had a 'first fix' extension with a ground floor area of approx 55 square metres. No screeding has been put down and I was wondering if anyone could add their comments to an alternative idea I have to screeding my floor.
I want to lay 50mm celotex/kingspan floor insulation between batons spread at 450mm wide intervals. Onto this I wish to nail 18mm solid oak floorboards. The new concrete floor already has an insulation slab and DPM as to current building regs. I'm hoping this idea will eliminate the higher cost of screeding and also improve even further the insulation properties of the rooms. Would appreciate any comments you may have.
Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=840 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=840 Wed, 07 Nov 2007 21:01:48 +0000 jonathan https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=861 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=861 Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:04:56 +0000 Neil
240m2, reasonably well insulated, retaining 16 radiators.Considering an Aarrow Stratford TF90 wood stove (24kw water / 4.5kw room) and a 350l Gledhill 'Torrent RE' thermal store and 2x Navitron 20 tube collectors (in the spring time), with an ageing Worcester oil boiler as back up.

Going to speak with manufaturer's and my green plumber friend who'll be helping, and who's open to experimentation, but would appreciate any other comments / ideas to put on the table...

My first question's going to eb whether the 24kw stove rating (intended for a primary pumped heating circuit?) is suited to the store size / strategy, next will be controls / thermostats / designs to set an alarm clock off when store temp is falling towards an oil boiler firing, giving time to stoke a fire up.

Saw a 1500l accumulator tank for sale on a thread here & got me thinking about strategies to store enough hot water to only power up the wood burner sparodically (say alternate /3 days in deep winter?)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=875 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=875 Fri, 16 Nov 2007 03:02:53 +0000 Terry As a popular cladding presumably durability is ok, but what about movement or any other issues with cedar in this application?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=688 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=688 Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:46:30 +0100 pdurkan@yahoo.co.uk 1 - Use "wood"-coloured silicone sealant
2 - Use a mixture of wallpaper paste & sawdust
3 - Use a product called Rubio mono-coat(?)
Has anyone tried any of these? Good or bad? Or can you recommend something else?

Cheers
Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=850 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=850 Fri, 09 Nov 2007 17:22:29 +0000 edwinvanek https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=846 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=846 Fri, 09 Nov 2007 08:46:01 +0000 albacore
Can anyone clarify this for me?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=105 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=105 Wed, 14 Mar 2007 21:34:54 +0000 William Thing is, a few on-line calculators say I only need 14Kw. What am I missing , should I spend the extra £300 on capacity I don't need and waste energy too?

PS: Ive got 280m of UFH pipe]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=448 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=448 Fri, 06 Jul 2007 15:00:14 +0100 sturharv
Can anyone let me know the usual method of linking an evacuated tube solar system to heat my small pool? Will I need a big HW store or will a heat exchanger suffice? Also, presumably there will be controls available for a system like this.

Kind regards,

Stuart:bigsmile:]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=852 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=852 Fri, 09 Nov 2007 22:27:05 +0000 tomsusweb
I have just received some estimates for a job in Ireland and the prices seem very comparable. The Warmcel installer wants €16 (£11.22) per m2 (including VAT and installation) to do the walls (145mm thickness).

I can buy sheep's wool from here:

http://www.sheepwoolinsulation.ie/products.asp?cat=11

for €17.50 (£12.28) per square metre at the same thickness. This price is even better than it seems as the warmcel price is total m2 and includes the area covered by the timber studs. The sheep's wool excludes the timber area. As I can install the insulation myself the sheep's wool works out about the same price in the end.

Am I missing something here? Is cellulose much cheaper in the UK? Has the sheep's wool got much cheaper?

Which would you use? I know that cellulose can potentially fill even the tiniest voids - but I worry about slumping and mould.

Comments appreciated

Tom]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=817 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=817 Fri, 02 Nov 2007 15:36:06 +0000 howdytom
Adobe/clay/rammed earth and straw bales are good for walls.

Whats your solution and why.

tom]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=864 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=864 Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:21:35 +0000 Rustychain
If I have understood what I have read on this forum, under worked high power boilers are less efficient than fully worked less powerful boilers. Have I got that correct?

The reason I ask is that I was going to spec a Vaillant ecoTec plus 837, due to the reasonable flow rate on the HW (needed for a shower) and the stainless steel heat exchange. But I wonder if this is overkill for my house and whether I could get away with a smaller model. The central heating outputs are as follows:
ecoTEC plus 824 - 6.7 - 19.0kW
ecoTEC plus 831 - 8.7 - 24.0kW
ecoTEC plus 837 - 12.0 - 28.0kW

Thanks

Sean]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=844 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=844 Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:43:28 +0000 lafamillemackay Working in Northern Portugal, we have decided to buy an old farmhouse, 2 storey. It dates from the mid-19th century, with thick granite walls. There is insulation on the attic but it has "original" rather ornate tall single glass windows which can't be changed for double glazed ones. The ceilings throughout the house are at 4m height or just over.. there is no heating...
We NEED to get some sort of heating in here. My father who lives in Sweden swears by heat pumps, going to fan units which blow hot air, the argument being 1) the efficiency (electrical) of the HPs and 2) that the fans will distribute the hot air in a room faster. Houses in Sweden are of course hermetically sealed against the elements, so I'm not convinced about how useful it would be here. A few thoughts/comments/questions for the discussion:
1. Although it gets cold in N Portugal, it rarely goes below freezing. The main problem is the damp, we are 1km from the Atlantic. The heating is almost more essential from the point of keeping the house dry.
2. HPs are really only in their infancy over here, a handful of distributors, but they have not got much experience under their belts, and then mainly for apartment/office blocks - it is predicted to increase... like in the UK.
3. One thing our builder is suggesting is night storage heaters.. my experience of these in the UK in the past has been terrible, they have "run out" of heat by midday following day and 5pm is icy, no matter what combination of input/output we tried... Has the technology for these come on in recent years?
4. I'd like to try to steer clear of fossil-fuel CH.. we have not got piped gas and I just don't like the idea of oil..
5. Am I crazy thinking about using fan-units rather than radiators? How does the energy needed to run the fan trade off against the extra time (=electricity) needed for radiators to heat a room?
6. What efficiencies of HP vs standard electricity use have other members experienced? 3:1? 5:1? less?
7. A long shot perhaps, does anyone have any contacts in Portugal for HP providers/contractors?
8. I'm an amateur, have done quite a bit of research on HP on the net, and have bought into the concept, but not sure if it is the appropriate solution for this particular house...?
9. If HP's are not, what is...?

If anyone has any advice, comments, help, I'd be v chuffed! (Please don't tell us to sell up though, it's a FAB house and will be so nice once brought somewhat into the modern age!)

Thanks in advance! Anna]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=854 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=854 Sun, 11 Nov 2007 17:36:22 +0000 albacore
Many thanks in advance for your help]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=862 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=862 Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:25:10 +0000 biffvernon https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=834 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=834 Tue, 06 Nov 2007 19:35:01 +0000 Peter A Before you say it yes I do know this is the green "building" site, but I do need to collect building materials from time to time and it would be nice to keep the carbon foot print down.]]>