Green Building Forum - All Discussions

Can gas flue bricks be used as a flue for a clean wood burner?

frostystart — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 14:43:18 +0100

HI I am moving to a semi detached house that has a gas fire on the party wall so i assume it uses flue bricks, does anyone know if the new generation of cleaner wood burning stoves can vent into gas flue bricks??

Thanks Colin

Yorkshire and Humber Local AECB Group

sallyh — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:03:25 +0100

Yorkshire and Humber Local AECB Group (non members welcome), join us for the 2nd regional event. An evening of presentations from leading researchers in the field of sustainable development. Wed 19th Sept 6-8pm, Room NT118, Civic Quarter, Leeds Metropolitan University Info from Claire Walker c.walker@leedsmet.ac.uk

Canadian Permanent Wood Foundations

fostertom — Fri, 24 Aug 2007 11:52:40 +0100

How about this? www.permanentwoodfoundation.com

Rubble trench wedded to Frost protected shallow foundation?

anerdoo — Sun, 26 Aug 2007 19:49:46 +0100

As the budget for our new home seems to be growing exponentially, I would like to consider rubble trench foundation as an option. Can this design be hybridized as a frost protected shallow foundation (I live in eastern Canada) if the rubble trench is insulated on the exterior and with horizontally slanted 'wings'? The house plan is 24x32.

Concrete actually seems to require less of that money stuff when compared to the cost of delivered 2-4" stone, enough to fill a 20" wide wall. To build straw bale. In either case the assistance of our friendly neighbourhood heavy equipment operator will be required.

Bay Window Insulation

IanC — Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:44:05 +0100

Hi.
I need to redo some of the tiling on the bay window of our 1930s semi, and while I was at thought I'd try and improve the thermal efficiency. The bay itself is brick rather than timber, so no possibility of fillig with insulation. I was thinking of once the tiles and battens were off, putting some thin insulation such as Tri Iso against the wall before battening and tiling. Do I need a gap between the insulation and the wall (I was hoping to minimise the amount by which the tiles pushed away from the wall)? Should I have membrane anywhere as on a roof? Any thoughts or alternatives much appreciated.

Thanks
Ian

Warm edge spacers - rip off prices?

Marc Palmer — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:05:30 +0100

Hi,

Our joiners have spoken to their glass supplier to get relative prices for SGG low-e glass vs SGG's warm edge spacer units and they have said there is approximately a four-fold increase in price.

How can this possibly be? Are they shafting the high-spec green market?

Also I read on a page about SuperSpacer that "once the outside temperature dips to -17.8C outdoors condensation will form on double-glazed glass even at only 15% humidity internally". If this is the "big sell" for warm edge, why am I even bothering? I don't see us having -17C in Gloucestershire for the next 10+yrs ... The Day After Tomorrow it isn't quite.

Can anyone explain this ludicrous pricing, explain whether I -really- would benefit from warm edge (timber frames with multiple small panes so a lot of edge). If they improve the efficiency significantly fine, but if they're only to stop theoretical condensation and silly low temperatures, surely there's no point especially given the apparently huge increase in cost.

Hot Air Curtains in shops

Neil K — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 22:15:21 +0100

I am looking for some evidence of a definitive study into the effect of these damn things.

After remonstrating with a number of shops along the lines of 'Why have you got your heating/air conditioning on AND your doors open?' I got fed up with the usual range of reasons (see below) and took it up through the political route. This produced some rather worrying replies.

Remarkably the (un)informed view was that these are more efficient at keeping buildings warm than a door. Apparently it is believed they 'pressurise the building with warm air and stop it leaking out'.... and several other pages of complete nonsense along these lines. :cry:

Even the Energy Saving Trust stated that 'warm air curtains .. are an effective way of reducing heat loss' and that they are 'very effective at preventing the warm air inside the building escaping.' I was therefore wondering if anybody had any proof one way or the other?

Whilst I can accept that an air curtain can reduce convection of hot air through a doorway and can have an effect on preventing stratification of air flow in the doorway (i.e hot air leaking out over a stream of cold air flowing in) I doubt that the air curtain is as effective as an insulated door which was the point I was making.

I do find it difficult to believe that at least part of the heat being thrown down by the curtain is not going directly out the door. Has anybody done an independent study into this by checking temperatures around the outside of these doors?

If they are right we could stop putting up insulated houses and simply live under a canopy, put some fan heaters on poles and live in the balmy interior so created.... or maybe someone has the wrong end of the stick.

Glad of any pointers on work done so far.

Reasons for doors being open and heating/cooling systems attempting to heat/cool the rest of the planet:
> It is company policy to have the doors open
> It is so our customers know we are open. (Other than it being opening hours, the lights being on and there being people wandering about inside one assumes)
> Our customers like it
> So that disabled people can get in
> People find the doors hard to open
> The cold air from the shop helps with global warming (Give me strength!)

.... is it just me?

CORGI

Wojtex09 — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:11:28 +0100

Hello,

I am looking for Plumber with CORGI certificate.

Regards

Izabela
www.wojtex.co.uk

Suggest SIP, cassette, volumetric suppliers?

fostertom — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:25:22 +0100

Anyone suggest favourite suppliers of alternative ways to prefabricate the little one-room Office, pictured? The cols and beams supporting the unit form a garage space, to be board-clad on site. Upper wall finish is feather-edge cedar boarding; roof is slate - unfortunately can't use shingles as it's built right on the boundary.

a) SIPs
b) framed cassettes, i) stud framed, b) I-joist frames
c) volumetric i.e. completely pre-finished in a factory and craned in, in one piece

The last would allow us to do without scaffolding, but would have to be slated in the factory. Width incl. slate eave overhang is within the magic 4.2m max for volumetrics.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/sk002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/sk.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/sk001.jpg

vapour barriers and eps backed plasterboard

Aaron Priestman — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 18:18:46 +0100

Hi

I am planning on insulating my loft with eps backed plasterboard over the rafters. Does anyone know where the vapour barrier goes in this case as it clearly can't go on the warm side of the insulation?

Thanks in advance for advice!!

Refurbishing old windows - stuck with language & heat loss calculations

Novy Mlyn — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 12:39:52 +0100

Help please!

I have a lot of windows to restore. I am restoring them, rather than ripping them out and replacing them, as everyone seems to think I should, but I have a couple of questions.

Firstly - what is the style of window called? - typical central European, not double glazing or secondary glazing as each unit is an inner and an outer window with a gap of 30 cm between them. the bottom part opens inwards, hinges on the left & right sides, with a separate top section which only opens a slight amount. I think they might be called 'vienna' style but can't find enough info to be sure.

Secondly - I am stripping and painting the frames - but are different names for the wooden parts which are set into the wall and the wooden parts which encase the glass?

Thirdly - I am working on a heat loss calculation - I believe that air is a good thing to have trapped to stop heat escaping? How does this type of window compare with the modern new fangled double glazing we see everywhere these days?

Thanks in advance!

Flagship visit

tony — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 10:44:55 +0100

I recently visited the headquarters of one of our flagship building organisations.

I was horrified as it was summer and the heating was blasting away and all the doors were open! ----- wasteful or what?

The toilet facilities all had buckets under them to catch the drips.

There was a disconnected gas pipe with no cap on it in full view and a tap near by to turn it on.

No recycling bins just throw it all away.

No evidence at all of anything green, ecologically friendly or and not that much evidence of good building practice.

Is this place a Flagship or ship about to sink? If that is the flagship what hope for the rest of what gets built?

Suitable sealant materials.

Rimu Homes — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:33:29 +0100

Hi,

In another thread the issue of sealants came up but was not fully discussed. In our homes we use Sikaflex 552, http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sf552-us.pdf.

We try to use sustainable products where possible ,but I hadn't given much thougtht to the properties of the sealants. Is this stuff good/bad or are there other products I should be looking at in relation to green cred.
Hope the are some chemists ot there?

Painting new plaster

Chris Wardle — Mon, 20 Aug 2007 19:16:18 +0100

I have the plasterers in next week (sand & cement render then gypsum plaster skim) and I need to be decorating about a week after they finish. Can anyone recommend a suitable paint for the walls that will breath so that the walls can continue to dry out properly after application?

DPS

Nigel Silkstone — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:52:08 +0100

My neighbourâ€™s extension is being built with a damp course two brick level above our existing buildings level. Is this correct or should it be he same level?
Would any one know of references to any regulations covering D.P.C.â€™s or web sites I could use to find answers to this question?
Thank you for any help and advice you can give in this matter.

How do you make a municipal waste incinerator look good?

Joinerbird — Tue, 14 Aug 2007 08:45:12 +0100

How do you make a municipal waste incinerator look good?
Morning folks. I was wondering about this all night....Our incinerator in Nottingham is tho most polluting and uggliest incinerator in the country and its going to get bigger if its opperators WRG can win their appeal against Nottm City Councils decision to turn down a planning application to expand it.
They have resubmitted the application and have made an attempt to tart the thing up so it fits in with our city's up and coming image.

So how do you polish a turd??:shocked::surfing:

sheep fleeces

howdytom — Sun, 19 Aug 2007 22:48:42 +0100

Hi, I'm new to this site, has anyone disscussed the use of untreated sheep fleeces as insulation, as i have been offered a small truck load and thought that they might work as insulation under the ramed earth floor i was planning in a barn convertion. Their use as wall or ceiling insulation may cause a bit of a smell problem ?

Welsh slate vs artificial slate

Bluemoon — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 23:57:29 +0100

Still working on a spec for loghouse project. Which is greener of the two?
A picture of my present 20year-old roof, do the latest cement-fibre slates discolour and get mossy like these?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/Pontrhydfendigaid/slateroof.jpg

Damp... can anyone help

Daniel B — Mon, 06 Aug 2007 21:37:48 +0100

I recently took on a renovation project and there are some damp patches on the internal walls. Discolouring is visible in several places and I think it may be rising damp? I'm nervous about getting quotes to repar the problem as I'm told they tend to dramatically over do it! Can anyone suggest a cheap, reliable DIY option?

Replacement windows - warm edge spacers or not?

Marc Palmer — Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:04:08 +0100

We're getting a local joiner to make replacement oak framed windows for our entire house.

The house itself is old and is never going to be super energy-efficient.

So I'm trying to work out how far it is worth going with the double glazed units in terms of cost to benefit.

The joiners are quoting for SGG Planitherm low-e glazing. Does that sound like it will be adequate, or would we benefit - even if the rest of our house has uninsulated walls - from another product like SGG Planitherm Futur N or SGG Swissspacer for warm-edge spacers? Its a minefield of poor manufacturer websites and potential over-specification.

Not to mention tints... I don't want any tints affecting the views from our house!

Any input welcome.

Argon filled window units

CarolAnne — Sat, 14 Jul 2007 21:03:55 +0100

I requested that my conservatory be built with argon filled Pilkington K glass. I can see that the window panes are Pilkington K but cannot see that they are argon filled. Is there any way I can tell that they are filled with argon gas? My neighbour says that I should be able to see a plug in each window pane where the gas has been inserted. Is this correct?

electric underfloor heating versus storage radiators + wind turbines

peppercat — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 09:20:20 +0100

Hi, I am about to undertake a minor extension and rather more major internal reorganisation of my house to enable me to work from home more effectively. The existing kitchen (in an 1990/91 extension and renovation of 1800s granite cottage) has a solid concrete floor which is none too flat or even and I am having this stripped out and converted to my practice room (I am a medical herbalist) and am considering how to heat it. The house is out in the country in Aberdeenshire, quite exposed and all electric as there is no mains gas available. I am with Scottish Hydro electric on their green tarriff "Power2", which I'm fairly stuck with as our heating is storage heaters on their Total Control system - like offpeak/white meter but we get a boost during the afternoon so evenings are not too cold in winter and none of the other green electric companies wanted to know when they heard that!
My first question is whether electric underfloor heating would be more or less efficient than the current storage heater for this room (about 9 sq m floor area). For me UFH would have two main advantages in this room (a) no loss of wall area to storage heater and (b) safety aspect of no very hot surface for patients to burn themselves on.

I also have planning permission for a roof mounted wind turbine (I did make enquiries about a larger free standing device but was told this would be turned down as we are in sight line of Aberdeen airport radar - which made me very cross!) and had been planning to install a Swift system as it seemed much more robust and versatile than the one available through B&Q. The DTi wind stats for here are pretty good and I can vouch for how windy it is as we are on an exposed site with no other buildings nearer than 400m and they are all down hill from us. However since Scottish and Southern energy took over marketing of the Swift system it seems to have stalled and my communications to them result in "holding" replies about doing more testing and monitoring of current installations before rolling out - this has been going on for nearly a year now so my second question is does anyone knew of any other roof mounted systems that might be suitable or any insider knowledge of what is actually happening with the Swift and whether it is likely to become available anytime soon?

Other options would obviously be to move to a different style of heating entirely e.g. multifuel stove and "wet" heating system but with mainly sold concrete floors I cannot face the disruption of this right now, never mind the expense.

My third and last question regards floor coverings - I am planning to use ceramic tiles in the utility room extension and probably in the new practice room too although I have also been considering marmoleum although I am having trouble finding out whether it can be laid direct on concrete or what sort of underlay it requires. The old study/practice room which is becoming my new kitchen/dining room actually has a raised floor - made of some kind of chipboard type stuff and I definitely don't want wool carpet in the kitchen but would like something warmer to the touch than ceramic tiles not sure what the green options are. Floor covering seem to be little covered either in green building forums or in eco decorating forums which seem to concentrate on paint and wall covering.

Review of current roof insulation is underway and we have already switched to low energy light bulbs throughout.

Looking for an eco friendly clear woodstain thats uv resistant

simonzz — Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:03:29 +0100

I've just put my money where my mouth is and splashed out considerable moolah on a solid cedar garage door. I was intent on treating it from the outset on an eco friendly natural woodstain. Unfortunately I have only come across natural woodstains with UV protection when they have some pigmentation added. It appear that clear woodstains do not offer this protection. I don't really want to add colour to the door since the cedar looks suprb as it is.
Does anyone know of a natural treatment that does offer UV protection? Otherwise I'll have to go down the Sadolin route.

Does Code Level 3 require us to employ MMCs?

Neil Adam Hall — Fri, 17 Aug 2007 11:40:34 +0100

I work for a Housing Association; as such we are trying to prepare for any problems that meeting the Code for Sustainable Homes may incur for us.
I have been informed recently that to meet Code Level 3 we will required to employ Modern Methods of Construction. Could anyone substantiate this claim for me?

Ecological house extensions

Daniel — Fri, 18 May 2007 13:30:47 +0100

Dear people,

I'm an architectural student currently doing a research project on ecological building extensions. There is not too much information around on this topic but only basic principles. What I'm trying to do is really understand the issues and detailing for how to go about doing this. I'm looking at conservatries, rear and garage extensions, porches etc. The kind of work one would normally do but using ecological materials and construction techniques. For example:
How would I join a rammed earth wall to an exisitng masonary wall?
How would I join a timber frame structure to the rear of my house?

Are there any people out there who have done projects themselves? If so I'd really like to hear from you.

kind regards

Daniel

terminal flue position

jeanette — Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:58:05 +0100

Can anybody tell me how far the terminal flue position of a condenser boiler should be from the boundary of the property. The plan is to put the boiller high up on the kitchen wall which is on the side of the house. This will mean the flue will point directly into the neighbouring property.

Thanks

insulating a corrugated iron roof

patrick — Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:33:14 +0100

Hi
I need to insulate a corrugated iron roof to make a habitable space.
My first thought was to rip it down and start again but that seams a waste as it is in good condition.

It is built on a strong steel frame, sloping at about 12 deg. and the stone walls are 500mm+ thick.

The current plan is build a ceiling of 80mm Celotex (or similar) inside with a small ventilated space. Later I want to put a 50mm layer of a mixture of gravel and soil on top for a green/brown roof.

I have never done this before and would welcome any suggestions or better ideas.

The site is in Spain where there is NO economic construction timber.

Public Consultation on Domestic Microgeneration

Nanuls — Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:05:23 +0100

Lifting the Planning Barriers to Domestic Energy Micro-generation: Proposed Changes to Permitted Development Rights

Thought you'd all might like to know that the Welsh Assembly Government are holding a consultation on the the future of domestic microgereneration with an aim to get the publics views on proposals to help residents take up individual sources of renewable energy in Wales by lifting any planning barriers to domestic energy micro-generation. Seems like a good thing to get involved in even if you don't live in Wales.

The document is 1.46mb and can be downloaded here:
http://new.wales.gov.uk/consultations/currentconsultation/plancurrcons/1616782/?lang=en

Part L and external doors

Johan — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 14:21:01 +0100

I'm a bit confused about the thermal performance for external doors.

If I've read the part L regulation correctly you need to use doors with better a u-value then 2.2W/m2K IF they have more then 50% glazing. Other doors it stats u-value <3.0W/m2K. Is this correct?? :shocked:

Sounds a bit mad to me! A door without a window should easily achieve less the 1.0W/m2K with a PUR core...

You also don't need building regs/FENSA cert. to fit a <50% glazed door as I understand it. Is this correct?

Anyone who can help clear up my confusion? Many thanks.

Stonehenge technological breakthrough?

tony — Sat, 14 Jul 2007 17:47:36 +0100

On a recent visit to Stonehenge we noticed that of the two types of stone from which it is built one felt cold and the other less cold.

The reason for this is that one of the rocks contains transparent grains allowing sun light inside the rock. This heats it up a bit.

What if I built my walls from this stone? In winter my heat losses would be less as my walls would be slightly warmer. If I could control the ability of light and heat to enter then I would be on a freebie winner. In summer I could pull curtains or whatever across to stop the heat entering the walls during the day and at night open them to let heat escape and help keep the house cool during the day. A kind of passive solar wall.

This effect could no doubt be magnified and refined considerably with our modern technologies. Stonehenge was around a very long time ago.

Will it work? Is it economic? Should I patent it fast?

is wood-burning eco-friendly or eco-vandalism?

funcrusher — Sun, 29 Apr 2007 22:40:37 +0100

We own over 50 acres of woodland, so firewood is continuously available- and yes, we manage the woodland to make best use of the timber and replant continuously. HOWEVER, I am not really convinced that wood-burning is a sensible eco-option when all factors are considered.
On the old forum there was debate about the CO2 cycle. Summarising, the argument 'for' was that woodburning simply returned to the atmosphere the carbon previously absorbed by the growing tree, and which would anyway be liberated by decay. The argument 'against' was that burning fossil fuels was doing exactly the same thing, but with a time lag of a few million years, and anyway an unfelled tree would carry on absorbing more carbon and there was no guarantee that burned wood would be replanted.
However there are I think two further arguments against. Firstly, burning timber produces far more gases than just CO2. There is a whole range of nasty toxic compounds emitted, depending on the temperature. Overall, wood smoke is a very dangerous carcinogen. Secondly, wood left to rot returns humus to the soil and also supports both directly and indirectly an immense array of fauna and flora in the rotting process. Sanitised woodland denies bats, bird, fungi, insects, bugs and ferns etc homes and /or food which abound in dying or rotten trees.
Perehaps at best there is only a case for burning timber which is being discarded after a useful life in buildings, furniture etc?

Supadeck or under-tile?

Roberts — Sun, 05 Aug 2007 23:15:05 +0100

Hello, I hope someone can advise which is the better solution for insulating a utility/ storage loft:

1. 123mm Supadeck over ceiling joists, with breathable fabric stapled to joists to reduce dirt.

2. 50mm Celotex between/ under rafters

The loft hatch is small, so the Celotex would have to be cut on the ground floor.

Any advice very welcome

Damp party wall caused by extremely poorly installed shower next door

Alan Baker — Fri, 03 Aug 2007 07:55:58 +0100

How do I get my mother's neighbour to do something about a very poorly shower he has installed the other side of the party wall? My mother's sitting room side of the party wall is very damp, the wallpaper has peeled off and the plaster has blown. The neighbour has done nothing about this even though I first approached him about the problem in November 2006. I have seen the shower installation and it is pretty useless, there is no tiling on the walls and the plaster has black plastic bin liners attached as water protection and the plastic trim around the edge of the shower tray is coming adrift. What can I do to get this guy to do something?

Diffusive Insulation - a substitute for ventilation?

fostertom — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 13:00:59 +0100

www.forevergreen.org.uk/articles/articlesthebreat.html - the bit about Diffusive Insulatiion - a hope of diffusing-out pollutant molecules, leaving oxygen inside, as an alternative to air-movement ventilation, or reduced need for.

Air Flow windows vs Mechanical Heat Recovery Ventilation

fostertom — Tue, 07 Aug 2007 12:59:24 +0100

Time I took the trouble to understand Air Flow windows - www.dwell-vent.co.uk with www.howarth-timber.co.uk. Can anyone explain?

Barn Conversion - Heating thoughts?

AndrewJwaters — Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:36:20 +0100

We have started a barn conversion in Sussex and are considering the following :-
1. Rayburn 355mf [already purchased]
2. Solar panel[s]
3. Wet underfloor heating
4. wood burning fire [with back boiler]
5. 12Kw electric boiler as backup & when the house is unoccupied.

I have seen for sale a Triple input coiled indirect cylinder for sale - how does this differ to a thermal store?
Where can I get a schematic design done on the appliances we intend to use?
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Thanks
Andrew
:bigsmile:

Sealing a cob wall

Armchair — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:58:50 +0100

My terraced house has party walls made of chalk rubble - a sort of cob-type construction. I have recently had the place plastered in lime to allow the walls to breathe. A small portion of wall has been left exposed in the living room as a feature. I would like to seal this with a clear sealant to prevent dust coming off the wall but I'm struggling to find a suitable product to use. PVA would be ideal if it was breathable - are there any breathable alternatives out there?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Foundations

mhsayers — Tue, 14 Aug 2007 12:03:38 +0100

Hello,

First post here so be gentle.

I live on a spit of land called shoreham beach this is essentially about 1000 houses built on a shingle bed with about 1.2 metres of soil on top. W ea re planning an extension because we can't afford to move to a larger property in the same location, and do not consider the plot to be over developed even by the time we have finished. However the shingle bed is proving to be a problem. the original builer used pile and raft but the council are saying that for our purposes we need only do the raft bit as we are only having a single storey extension on the rear. can anyone explain the difference between th 2 and what is likely to happen if we mix foundation types......

m

Timber treatment of windows

Chris Wardle — Mon, 02 Jul 2007 15:25:57 +0100

I'm having a window and some French doors made for an extension. They are being made in Redwood and I'm thinking of using linseed oil paint to finish them which I'm hoping will prolong the life by avoiding getting any moisture trapped in the timber.

The joiner who is making them usually treats softwood for use in external applications with Cuprinol clear wood preserver prior to painting. I'm wondering whether this will interfere in any way with the linseed oil based paint? I will be treating with linseed oil prior to application of the paint in any case. Should I let him treat the frames with the preserver or not?

do you want to make oil burning esse burn wood. i have done it

ciderman — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 22:12:41 +0100

info for members.

Professional help with green issues

janel — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 13:49:49 +0100

We have just purchased barn to renovate on Dartmoor and are researching green heating and hot water issues. The barn has to be used as a holiday let and therefore we will have less control over the amount of energy used by guests. We are finding it hard to get a joined up green approach for the whole property for heating and water, is there anyone out there who provides a green holistic advisory service? We have various brochures but these produce as many questions as they do answers. Work has not yet started on the barn because the renewal energy sources need costing and we will then trim others areas of the renovation to get everyting on board.

Energy Performance Standards Early Adopters Workshop 11 September

sallyh — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:24:01 +0100

Would you like to learn more about the AECB energy performance standards and how to achieve them? Are you willing to share problems and solutions? Do you want to network with the growing number of developers, architects and builders who have committed to the standards?

The AECB has organised a one-day workshop for early adopters of the AECB draft energy performance standards' targets. The workshop will be held on the 11 th September 2007 at The New Technology Institute, 15 Bartholomew Road, Birmingham B5 5JU.

Some early adopter projects are at concept stage, some at sketch scheme stage and others at detailed design stage or under construction - several are now complete. Early adopters are designing and building projects in several categories, domestic, office/retail, educational and community. Currently AECB members are involved in at least 35,350 square metres of construction aiming for Silver (70% reductions in CO2 - compared to the average stock equivalent) and at least 10,000 square metres of construction aiming for Gold (95% reduction). Other non-member developers are committed to a further significant number of large developments aiming for Silver.

The workshop is open to members and non members and the cost is just Â£99 including VAT.

Central composting unit - low flush. Sealand & Sun-mar

Novy Mlyn — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:29:32 +0100

Has anyone here direct experience (!) of this system. We are about to purchase and install at some cost.

Please declare if you are a sunmar/sealand sales person!

wondering about wood prices

rae — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 08:23:26 +0100

I'm wondering how much people pay for wood.
I've seen posts where people use around 9 tonnes per year and seem to write it without a flinch.
Here, a 'load' which is around a tonne of seasoned oak, ash etc costs around Â£80 a load. (we live in Gloucestershire, in a place where a lot of people burn wood to heat their homes)
if you pay less than that, you get rubbish which doeesn't keep you warm.
We've tried to buy in core lengths, but no one offers us much reduction for that, despite the fact it is heaps less work. Basically, they know that around here they can charge as they wish because the demand it high.

Is it a geographical thing?

I would also like to know from those who heat their homes (radiators) solely with wood whether you feel it is as economical as using gas or electric. Do you just do it becuase there is nothing like an open fire, or do you do it to save money?

many thanks
Rae x

Calculating how much wood I will burn

Novy Mlyn — Mon, 06 Aug 2007 10:19:51 +0100

Hello,

Does anyone know where I can find a formula to work out how much wood I will need for the winter?

I have calculated how much heat I will need in KWH, and have a supply of dry wood, but I don't know how much I am likely to burn. I'm a metric girl, by the way. There are american pages which use pounds and british heat units.

I think: 1 kw is 3.413 BTU, a stere is a cubic metre of wood equal to .276 chords of wood.

I've found this formula:
http://www.aboutbioenergy.info/Calculator1NN.html
but it gives the result in gigajules.

If we needed 31kw to heat the house, 10 cubic metres of wood would last for 30 days?

(background: we have a large house with thick walls which is currently wood heated (individual stoves not central). We are looking to invest in a heat pump, but I need to check that this is not going to be massively more costly than staying with wood.)

Thanks if you can help!

Costs per metre squared of green extension?

jimbeam — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 23:37:47 +0100

Hello all

first time question.
We don't have access to H&R build cost guide. So how much per metre squared would an extension of 70m2 be?
Two storeys, ground source heat pump, two panel solar, heat recovery, timber frame, timber clad, underfloor heating (already quoted 9k for windows).
Need figures for Average, good and excellent quality.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Jim Beam

Integral garages

tony — Fri, 03 Aug 2007 08:35:08 +0100

These must be ungreen as they put into an envelope a gaping thermal hole which is difficult to insulate properly, and even if insulated perfectly, which is unlikely, still looses far more heat than it ought to and radically more than if it was not there. It is also exceedingly difficult to air seal too allowing air leakages into the heart of the building. Worse still they are almost never used to keep a cars in. Often they are converted to become a part of the house at huge expense and waste any effort that went in to insulating them in the first place.

No more integral garages?

Breathing Walls is Proven Not Workable in the Real World

Pingy — Fri, 03 Aug 2007 16:44:54 +0100

I picked up this comment on a different thread (http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=320&page=2#Item_6) and would like to know where the evidence is that proves breathing walls do not work. If it's true then should I be better off using the highly efficient petro-chemical derived insulants and not worry about having 'natural' breathable insulants?

multi fuel stove boiler

ailsa — Tue, 07 Aug 2007 15:12:34 +0100

I would like to heat one or two radiators from a Charnwood Country 6 stove with a back boiler. The idea is that the first radiator would feed directly off the stove (but be physically higher) and then go up to a copper cylinder in the loft. As the radiator would be a heat leak radiator does it need to be made of copper? I have not been able to find them to buy. Can you help? Thanks

Electric Underfloor Heating

Caroline — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 21:37:23 +0100

Hello
We are currently extending our kitchen to be about 7mx5m of floor space. We are planning to have a wood burning Rayburn (cooking only) at one end, and are thinking that that won't give enough heat for the whole space (and for the days that we can't be bothered to light it). So......does anyone know much about electric underfloor heating pads, how efficient they are etc. The floor is new concrete and we are putting slate tiles to absorb sun's warmth (there are about 6m of floor to ceiling windows) during sunnry days. We have PV (about 5kW), and our other space heating is wood burners adn storage heaters.
Any thoughts or recommendations much appreciated.
Thanks