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			<title>Green Building Forum - All Discussions</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Sat, 02 May 2026 16:26:22 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Creative Outdoor Eco-Architecture Weekend - Shropshire 7/8/9 Sept</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=466</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:31:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>nigel</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Based at Onny Meadows, Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre, Craven Arms.<br /><br />Cost Â£65 for the W/E or Â£35 per day incl camping.<br /><br />The weekend event will include:<br />Exploration of simple ecological building techniques using straw bale, clay and lime render.<br />Demonstration and hands on training event led by Amazon Nails, the UK's leading practitioners of Straw Bale construction.<br />Opportunities for talks and discussions on design and sustainability.<br /><br />This course is being put together as part of a wider aim to build Cloud Gallery by a group of Shropshire artists.<br />It will be a sustainable visual art gallery with striking eco design.<br /><br />For more information you can call Sheilagh Jevons on 01746 785026 or email info at huwpowellroberts.co.uk]]>
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		<title>Court case on Supplementary Planning Guidance? Documents</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=450</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:51 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>bobirving</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have a memory that there was a case recently where a developer won a judgment over a local authority  over an SPD on insulation standards (?) that they could not be forced to provide better than Part L, but I can't find any reference to it on the web, despite wading through archives on this and other sites. Is my memory playing me up or has anyone else had the same illusion?]]>
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		<title>offered: firewood</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=486</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Jul 2007 12:57:36 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>arthur</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Got some firewood in North West London from chopping down a couple of large-ish Lailandi. Don't know what sort of firewood it makes. I can trim it and chop it up ready for collection. Be glad to get it taken away. If anyone has any good ideas on how else to advertise it I'd be glad to know. I'll try freecycle too. I'd prefer it went to one of you chaps with your fancy clean burning wood boilers than just someone who wants to send the energy up their Victorian chimney. :bigsmile:]]>
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		<title>Petrochemical products</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=490</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:53:21 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I am starting this thread as the subject was beginning to hyjack the warmedge spacer thread.<br /><br />My question is this?  Which petrochemical products are acceptable for use in the building industry. In particular, is it okay to use insulation derived from oil while condemning the use of upvc windows? Are there other oil based products which are acceptable? Has anyone considered a ranking order of 'plastic' no-no's<br /><br />My opinion is that I would much prefer to use naturally derived products, not oil based ones. However the reality is that these are often unaffordable or impractical in use. Hence, I use them.]]>
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		<title>straight answer</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=485</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:25:11 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Alan2</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[First time i have discussed anything on the forum, but i must say what a fantastic site that i think this is and i only wish i had found a year ago, but to the point. i have read a lot of past and present discussions on this matter and i was wondering whether any body will give me a straight answer, i have purchased a 100 year old end terraced house and for all it is big and got bags of character it is absolutely freezing. my first floor consists of concrete base and wood floor with a gap of about 2 feet, and all i want to know is whether it is worth me pulling all the floorboards up and putting some form of netting and insulation down or just to get some warmseal blown in i would really appreciate a straight. answer warmseal less work and mess? or netting and insulation? can i just say again what a grate site]]>
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		<title>Combining a sealed sytem with an open vented system?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=484</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:03:55 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Hibernian Winters</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi! I've followed a few posts on here that discuss a variation on this theme, but I can't find anything that  offers a solution to my problem. We have a sealed central heating system running off a gas boiler. We want to add a solid fuel stove with a back boiler to the equation. The difficulty is our house in a bungalow with a converted attic. There's no way to get a feed/expansion tank higher than the upstairs radiators. The best I can do is to get a tank in high enough to let the solid fuel boiler run up through the hot water cyclinder and a heat leak radiator. After some research the only options I can find are;<br />- Using a heat exhanger (so the 2 systems remain isolated and the sealed system gets heated by the open system)<br />- Using a neutraliser (I've been told this would work, but I don't understand how!)<br />I can't use a thermal store because I have nowhere to put one!<br />Has anyone out there tried to link an open system with a sealed system where different pressures exist? I can't find anyone who's actually done this and I don't really want to spend heaps on something that might not work!<br />Has anyone got a system like working in the real world?<br /><br />Thanks!]]>
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		<title>Water Repellent Sealent</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=480</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:42:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>SteveF</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I currently have a problem with water ingress around my (old) double glazed window frames.<br />Within a couple hours of a rainstorm, I have damp appearing on the internal walls on the exposed side of my property. Pretty soon this causes plaster to drop off. <br />The walls have been cavity filled.<br />I've had two builders in. <br />One suggested hitting the wall with a lump hammer to help the cavity insulation settle. <br />The other suggested that the cavity trays were probably damaged and that the outer walls should be sealed with a water repellent sealent. <br />I'm a bit nervous about doing this as once done it cannot be undone !<br /><br />I'd welcome any advice/feedback on the pros or cons of using a water repellent sealent in this way.]]>
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		<title>Just a thought</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=458</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:02:15 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>dave123</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I sometimes listen to all the rhetoric given out by our wonderful politicians.  I hear cries of, â€œwe must reduce carbon emissions by X amount in the next 10 yearsâ€, we should all use energy saving light bulbs, thermal energy, renewable energy, solar energy, installation and the list goes on.  It would be extremely easy to legislate, that every new build incorporated these features (there is legislation on new buildings I know but not far enough in my opinion).  <br /><br />Thinking out-of-the-box, what in reality would actually happen if all this wonderful talk was put into action?<br />I for instance (apart from my ongoing discussion on solar water heating) have done everything I can to reduced my electric and gas bills by about three quarters of the norm (just a rough estimate).<br />Could you imagine how devastating that would be to the government coffers, if every household in Britain were to do the same?<br />Three quarters of their tax on energy (oil, electricity, and gas) would disappear.  And that is only the start.<br /> God forbid that we should get a really efficient bus and rail service that is cheap and affordable that would keep us out of our cars (I travelled on the Belgian rail service last year, and I couldn't believe how clean and efficient it was, even the air conditioner had air freshener incorporated) think of the tax they would lose on fuel, I'm not sure how much tax they charge on fuel nowadays, but I bet it's a massive amount.<br /><br />â€œLet Britain lead the wayâ€ I wonder why I don't believe them?<br /><br />Perhaps I'm being cynical. If all the above were to happen, we perhaps, wouldn't be able to afford to go to war quite so often.<br />Maybe they could go back to the daylight tax<br /><br />I will let others discuss the merits of alcohol and tobacco taxes (if we tax it high enough people will stop smoking and drinking, do we really live on the same planet?) To name just a few.<br /><br />That is it I have had my rant for today.  <br /><br />Dave]]>
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		<title>&quot;green&quot; foundations for buildings</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=472</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:39:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>piwi</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Am hoping to build a woodworking workshop  in the garden - have a space about 24 feet x 12 feet available.  Rough plan would be similar to a large commercial garden shed, but with more substantial framing and decent insulation. <br />What is the &quot;greenest&quot; form of foundations I can use?  All advice seems to be for a concrete slab over the area, but can anyone advise on a better way? e.g would concrete &quot;pad&quot; foundations use less concrete?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Pete Wilson (aka Piwi)]]>
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		<title>What to do about ever-increasing electricity requirements?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=65</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Feb 2007 14:18:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Rosemary</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Since my last visit to the opticians they have changed over from taking notes with pen and paper to entering everything they discover when testing your eyes via a computer. This computer is on all day, as is the printer which is used to print off the data. Since my last visit to the Council Offices they have installed an automated door system in order to meet the requirements of the disability access legislation. Because there is just the one entrance to the building, everyone using it has to push a button and wait for the (heavy old) doors to swing open electrically. In the last six months, the village where I live has imposed parking restrictions: not the cardboard disc stating the time of arrival, which many of us advocated, but a pay and display system with some 16 ticket machines consuming power presumably for 24 hours a day (one was going to be PV powered but I haven't found it). These are just three local examples and no doubt similar things are happening all over the country. As fast as we install the low energy lightbulbs in our homes, the world beyond the home is finding more and more ways of using electricity. Apart from a return to the quill pen, what is the answer? Huge price increases? Carbon rationing? Nuclear power? All three?]]>
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		<title>Skirting board heating system - energy saving measure??</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=460</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jul 2007 11:00:52 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>jongarrett</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Suppliers of skirting board heating systems are claiming some impressive savings in running costs over traditional radiators.  Does anybody know if such savings are likley?   Am I right in thinking that savings are achieved by getting away with setting a lower room temperature ie 19 degrees instead of 21oC?]]>
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		<title>External insulation of block wall</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=483</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jul 2007 21:25:57 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris Wardle</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm externally insulating a concrete block wall with 100mm EPS (50mm between 50x50mm timbers, then 50mm between timbers at right angles).  Is it worth taping all the joints between the timber and the EPS?  Was wondering if this would help with the performance of the insulation in any way, but was also concerned about trapping any moisture in the timber if I seal it with tape (it has been raining a lot recently...).<br /><br />Also, do I need to include any sort of membrane before I batten and fix my timber cladding?  Is so, what would be best?  I have a large roll of Visqueen but would I be better with something breathable?]]>
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		<title>What are minimum standards for extension to house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=477</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jul 2007 06:56:58 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Solar bore</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[was talking to builder working on extension.  near to me.<br />So far built its a single skin using 4&quot; blocks   I asked are you not building an inner skin and how can it meet current regulations - his reply we are Dry-lining it with insulated plaster. will that satisfy regulations.]]>
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		<title>Submarine batteries</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=394</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2007 19:58:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm looking for some more ex-submarine batteries, I've already got 12, 2 volt (920 amp-hour at 10 hr rate) ex-military batteries and I want to double up my storage capabilities. <br /><br />i bought them second hand (from someone who was going on to the grid) about ten years ago.<br /><br />If anyone knows where kit like this can still be found I'd be very grateful.<br /><br />thanks, Keith]]>
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		<title>shallow pitch roof insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=433</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jul 2007 23:02:14 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>mitchino</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Our house was originally built as a single storey cottage with a 45 degree traditional slate roof. In the 1970s it was extended out perpendicular to the ridge to form two storeys, one side just has a dormer running the full length of the roof with a flat felt roof, the other side extends out 15ft and has a pitched roof perpendicular to the original ridge covered in felt. The pitch of this roof is very shallow - approx 10-15 degrees. The area under this section of the roof is approx 30 sqm.<br /><br />I want to insulate the roof, but I'm unsure how to tackle the shallow area. The roof extends beyond the edges of the walls about a foot, but there's only about 200mm between the tops of the walls and the roof. I can't even crawl all the way to the eaves. I don't want to compromise ventilation, but I'd like to get as much effective insulation in there as I can. At the moment there's a mess of old bits of carpet, ancient bits of rockwool and vermiculite spread here and there.<br /><br />I was thinking about using 150mm of space blanket all over the area, then adding another 200mm in the centre area farther away from the eaves. Or would I be better looking at incorporating an isofoil or aerogel layer?<br /><br />To be honest the roof really needs rebuilt, but we can't afford that for the foreseeable future, and I want the coming winter to be cosy, and to save some money on our current annual heating oil bill of nearly Â£2000.]]>
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		<title>Solar Slates</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=396</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2007 23:26:28 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>JennyField</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Has anyone any experience of using solar slates or tiles as opposed to panels for hot water production?  I have found one manufacturer/distributor on the internet with useful information - Solex Energy Ltd. The National Trust use solar slates but their projects will be considerably larger than ours. Help appreciated.]]>
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		<title>Thinnest options for rebuilding conservatory walls</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=383</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2007 15:41:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>momo101</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi all,<br />We are in the process of rebuilding the outer shell of our conservatory / extension which is currently split (partition) as a bathroom and small storage area. At present, the structure of the building consists of thin wooden Victorian walls and a lean-to felt rood. It is in a very bad state and the room is always extremely cold. We would like to replace the walls with a more solid structure, that is well insulated and would allow heavy fixtures (wall units). We were thinking of using the brick - gap (for insulation) - concrete block approach for the bottom of the walls  with windows across the top 2/3 rds (not the bathroom section) but this would eat up on the very limited interior space . Are there any alternative cost effective approaches that would produce a well insulated space that is thin as possible, can handle fixtures and can cope with a lean-to tiled roof? <br /><br />Thanks in advance.]]>
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		<title>Roof renovations/upgrades</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=376</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Jun 2007 20:24:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[The next edition of Green Building magazine will feature heavily on roofs of all kinds and I would like to ensure that we include a few on renovating and upgrading of existing roofs of houses. <br /><br />I'm particularly interested in some real case studies from homeowners who have decided to green their home and what challenges they faced when trying to find info on how to do the upgrade (usually insulation), finding builders to carry out the work and how it all went and what was actually achieved.<br /><br />Either post questions/suggestions here that I can follow back on or send me an e-mail if you are interested in doing us a story of your project. You can write it yourself and we can edit or we can get a journalist to visit you. Click on my name above to find my e-mail address.<br /><br />Anyone else with roof related stories, studies, research or products of any type please also get in touch asap. I want this feature to be very comprehensive.]]>
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		<title>Vemiculite in lime floor slab?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=385</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2007 21:00:59 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>sye</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Anyone used micafil/vermiculite in a lime crete slab? <br /><br />Thinking of using it as an alternative to leca.]]>
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		<title>Sanding of floorboards</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=349</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Jun 2007 13:54:50 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>moogaloo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Not strictly a green building issue, but an issue arising whilst green building (I have had to have my floorboards refitted for a solar hot water underfloor heating system.)<br /><br />Anyway my floorboards have been belt sanded before refitting and look good, there is some un eveness between the boards, but I am not sure that I dislke this.<br /><br />So I was thinking of using an orbital sander to get rid of the more pronounced unevenness and any marks still left on the floor before sealing.  My carpanter does not think this is a good idea and recommends using a big floor sander,<br /><br />Is there anything wrong with what I am planning to do, or am I fool for thinking it?<br /><br />For extra info my boards are pine.<br /><br />BTW will be sealing with Kumos Natural Oil Sealer in case anyone has any experience here?]]>
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		<title>Insulating a solid wall</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=367</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jun 2007 10:46:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Bluemoon</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[The load-bearing wall between my hallway and my integral double garage is of 100mm dense concrete block. It should have been 150mm Celcon but the apparently the builder didn't have any to hand. To insulate it ready for the sale in a year or two's time, I thought of fixing timber studs to the wall, filling the voids with polystyrene foam then cladding with 11mm OSB with white paint finish. What thickness of foam would be enough, or should I use something else?  The other walls are insulated, inner leaf Celcon 130mm, the ceiling is of TACfire sheets nailed to timber joists.  The garage, like most, is used as a store room not a vehicle store.]]>
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		<title>Sun room extension</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=238</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2007 11:40:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris Wardle</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have a little project for the summer that I could use some advice on.  My Mum has a conservatory on the back of her bungalow.  It is south facing so like oven in summer and freezing in winter, bar the odd sunny day.  She wants it replacing with a proper sun room extension that can be used all year round.<br /><br />The plan is to take the conservatory down to floor slab level and re-use the existing slab, extending it to one side so that the new extension runs across the whole of the rear gable end of the bungalow (stepped in about 500mm at each side).  The overall width will be 5.4m and it will extend 2.4m from the house, so fairly small and cost is an issue as the client is now a pensioner!<br /><br />I would like to build it out of a single skin of concrete blocks, externally insulated and finished with a timber rain screen to give some thermal mass to the room and take advantage of passive solar gains.  A number of things are currently vexing me:-<br /><br />1 Will the building inspector accept the reuse of the conservatory slab?  How do I handle this i.e. should I just ask or dig a hole next to the footings before he comes on site?<br />2 Am I  more likely to be able to re-use the slab if I propose a light weight construction, i.e. timber frame, rather than  blockwork walls?  <br />3 The extension will be next to the two bedrooms of the house which have no windows except those that will be covered by the extension (the exisiting conservatory is currently accessed through the main bedroom).  The plan is to put an internal floor to ceiling window between the extension and the main bedroom with an opening casement for ventilation and a combination frame with door and opening casement from the spare bedroom through which the sun room will be accessed.  Will this infringe the building regulations as the ventilation for the bedroom with be through the sun room?<br />4 Existing rain water off the conservatory roof flows into a water butt with over-flow into a flower bed.  We would like to retain a similar arrangement linking the overflow of the water butt to a perforated irrigation pipe wich I will lay in the flower bed under the mulch.  Will building control accept this as a reasonable solution or will I be digging a soak away?<br />5 The roof will essentially be a lean-to type affair to keep the overall high under 4m to avoid the need for planning permission, but there will have to be a hip at each side because of the level of the roof line of the bungalow.  I had planned to use timber shingles to finish the roof.  Can these be fitted around a hip and remain water-tight?  <br />6 Can I build a single storey extension in 100mm block work or will it have to be 140mm?<br />7 There will be no insulation in the existing slab so little point in putting any in the extra bit to the side.  I don't want to isolate the thermal mass in the slab so can't insulate over the top of it.  Can I get over this and comply with the building regs by beefing up the roof and wall insulation?<br />8 Wall space for a radiator in the extension will be a premium (bungalow is gas centrally heated with new condensing combi).  I had thought about a small amount of electric undertile heating (floor will be tiled) on a separate thermostat to the rest of the house so the heating would be more responsive to passive solar gains.  Would this be a mistake given that there will be no insulation in the slab?<br /><br />Any advice would be appreciated.<br /><br />Thanks, Chris.]]>
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		<title>Flooring decisions and UFH</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=371</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jun 2007 22:26:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Diotima</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[My first post, so - hello! My OH and I have a 1960s bungalow with a suspended wooden floor, the boards are straight planks nailed to the joists, apparently the joists are supported on sleeper walls. This info comes from the people who installed our shower cabinet, we haven't yet taken up the floor to see for ourselves. There's no underfloor insulation.<br /><br />We want to install electric underfloor heating plus a good quality wood floor finish. The decision on electric heating is final. We'd appreciate some advice on insulating the floor, please - this is going to be a d.i.y. job apart from connecting the electrics. Is the kind of thin pad or roll insulation that comes with electric UFH systems good enough to insulate to recommended modern standards, or should we just bite the bullet, take the floorboards up and insulate underneath? There's about a foot of air space beneath the boards and I can guess what the answer's going to be, but we'd really appreciate your opinions. Thank you!]]>
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		<title>First zero-emission home unveiled</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=365</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jun 2007 13:04:19 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>moogaloo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[A news article on the BCC about kingspans zero carbon home.  Please discuss<br /><br />http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/6735715.stm#graphic]]>
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		<title>Green Building on the Radio</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=369</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jun 2007 19:33:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>biffvernon</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Nice piece on Radio 4 Front Row tonight Tuesday.<br />Listen again: http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/arts/frontrow/]]>
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		<title>Heating my cottage</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=327</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2007 07:50:17 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>SteveE</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We've just moved into a three bedroomed cottage, (in a non gas supplied area), which was re-furbished about 18 years ago.  The insulation isn't very good, so that has to be looked at but my main priority at the moment is getting away from the overnight electric storage heaters which heat the house, (not very well though).  We have a largish lounge, which incorporates an open staircase to the first floor, the lounge has an ingle nook fireplace with a Dovre multi fuel fire.  I'd like to utilise the fireplace to fit a new fire with wrap around boiler to heat water and if possible power a central heating system for the house.  The summer months obviously need to be covered, and the cottage is in a conservation area, so solar panels or wind power probably aren't an option, so I supplose I'll have to retain some form of electric water heating system.   Anyone had similar experiences please who could give me a bit of advice?  I'm open to any suggestions, including heat pumps etc.<br /><br />Cheers]]>
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		<title>Calculating &amp; dealing with solar gain</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=362</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jun 2007 18:26:18 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Neil K</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Glad of some advice on this one:<br /><br />We are planning to put in a conservatory on the south side of the new house. I am worried about excessive solar gain and want to do some calculations on the energy we are likely to have to deal with.<br /><br />Clearly there is scope to use the space for heat in the spring and autumn. In the winter it will be capable of being isolated if too cold, and in the summer I am expecting to need to provide some ventilation in there to keep it from cooking, but trying to get a handle on that is proving a bit hard!<br /><br />The house to which this will be attached will be well insulated with a heat recovery/ventilation system. Air will be taken from the conservatory by the ventilation system, but I don't want to overwhelm it! The slab for the conservatory will be insulated underneath &amp; I plan to zone it onto the underfloor heating from the heat pump. (We may well not use this zone if it will mean a nett energy loss)<br /><br />The conservatory will be all glass with argon fill.<br /><br />Anyway, the main thing at the moment is for me to get some sort of calculator that can help me get a grip on the energy I will be receiving.<br /><br />Glad of a steer.]]>
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		<title>Support our application for Wind Turbines?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=198</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2007 23:12:53 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Dominic Cooney</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Please note the wind turbines in question are not for space heating, but to actually run our glass melting equipment. Our living accommodation is already insulated, converted 6 years ago from a derelict chapel (we live in the back and our workshop is in the front), with the help of a mortgage from the Ecology Building Society. <br />It features a condensing combi boiler, Lindab guttering, woooden double glazed windows, eco paints and varnishes, low-flush WC, energy saving bulbs, etc. etc.<br />This is what we propose for our business:<br /><br />Elaine Sheldon and Dominic Cooney have submitted plans to Staffordshire Moorlands District Council to install2 x 15kW Proven wind turbines in the field next to our live/work space, in Cellarhead. The idea is to convert our glass-melting furnace to electricity, it currently runs on natural gas and although it is highly efficient, this project will save approximately 40 tonnes of CO2 emissions annually.<br />The proposed turbines will be grid connected and on average, over the year, provide enough energy for us to run the studio.<br />This is an opportunity for us to make a genuine difference to our small business' sustainability.<br />We have been approved 50% funding of the project costs from the Dti (total costs Â£90,000) but obviously we cannot proceed unless we get planning permission.<br /><br />If you would like to know more about our business click on this link:<br />http://www.sheldoncooney.com<br /><br />Before I ask you to support our application, please be aware of the issues surrounding the application:<br /><br />Just inside the Green Belt &amp; Special Landscape area - although right next to main trunk A-road (A520)<br />The 15kW proven wind turbine is the largest of the domestic/light industrial size at 15metres mast and 9m diameter rotor<br />http://www.provenenergy.com/<br /><br />Our average wind speed is 6.2m/s (14mph)<br />at this speed 2 x 15kW turbines will generate 86,000kWh annually which should be enough for our business.<br />The turbines are quiet as they do not have a gearbox like the massive wind farm turbines.<br />We are suggesting white turbine head &amp; blades to blend in with the sky.<br />There is a history of wind-harvesting in the area, with windmill bases at nearby Werrington and at Meir Heath<br />This project also makes financial sense as the payback time is less than 10 years.<br /><br />If you would like to support our planning application, please click on the link below:<br />http://publicaccess.staffsmoorlands.gov.uk/publicaccess/tdc/DcApplication/application_detailview.aspx?keyval=JDX8LCPG96000&amp;searchtype=PROPERTY&amp;module=<br /><br />We need to get all letters of support to the council by the end of April. There is no obligation for you to support this application.<br />If you need any more information, or would like us to e-mail you plans or documents, just e-mail us on info@sheldoncooney.com<br /><br />Thank you for your time<br />Kind Regards<br />Elaine Sheldon &amp; Dominic Cooney.:peace:]]>
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		<title>Eco-renovation Glasgow</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=360</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2007 22:35:07 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>biffvernon</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[A couple of things for folk in northern parts, with more info at http://www.eco-renovation.org/<br /><br />1. BIG TENT FESTIVAL<br />Two talks to go to at the Big Tent festival of Stewardship in Falkland, Fife next weekend.  One organised by us and one by SEDA (Scottish Ecological Design Association).  For the full programme see http://www.bigtentfestival.co.uk.  Also lots of ideas and information at the SEDA stall in their specially made timber-framed pavilion.<br /><br /> Eco-Renovation Network Event<br />"Raising the Roof and lifestyle choices"<br />Sat 16th, 12.30pm to 1.30pm<br />Vivarium Co housing group - represented by Hugh Hoffman <br />Craigmillar Self Build - represented by Garreth Roberts <br />Andy Ross - Glasgow Carbon Rationing Action Group<br />Ian Grout - 'Don't wait for the legislation'. Ian is from Dept. of Industrial Design, Glasgow School of Art <br />Chaired by Patrick Boase, Eco Renovation Network Steering Group<br /><br />SEDA Event<br />"Greening your home - what you should know before you start "<br />Sun 17th, 12.30pm to 1.30pm<br />Richard Atkins is a Chartered Architect and the Chair of the Scottish Ecological Design Association. His talk will focus on the differences between dwellings, whether flats or houses, new or old, the physical constraints and opportunities for improving their environmental performance.<br /><br />2. Home-greening<br />Also advance warning of our first cooperative home-greening consultation.  It will be the weekend of 20-21st July and will probably be on the Sunday afternoon at my house where you can see how un-eco my home really is and what I need to do over the next few months/(years?) to gain an eco-halo.  The idea is that there are thousands of homes like mine in Glasgow (mid-terrace Edwardian sandstone villa) so the advice that Chris Morgan of SEDA and a colleague will be giving will apply to many people.  We can then share the expense of a consultant (in fact I think that eco-renovation network are kindly funding this oneâ€¦).  Since I am hosting I suppose I had better do some catering so expect chocolate cake.  â€¦â€¦  If this is a success Chris is promising us lots more in different types of housing.]]>
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		<title>Heating Requirements, Barn Conversion</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=357</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2007 09:50:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Roger</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi all. Bit of a rough double check to request. I have a three storey (Inc top floor in roof pitch) barn type building (ex brewery). Stone built. Two feet walls. External walls drylined with 150mm rockwool. Roofpitch Superquilt (yikes!) with 50mm gyproc thermaline.<br /><br />It has a small wood burner at present on the first floor. The ground floor will have UFH at some point. I am getting gas connected. Question: My plumber reckons the 13 salvaged radiators I have sourced total 41,000 BTUs. He reckons the upper two floors require 70,000 BTUs. The building is approx 10mx10m. About 4 rooms per floor, 3 floors.<br /><br />This sounds a lot of extra BTUs/radiators. Does it sound about right? Or way off? Any advice very much appreciated. <br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Roger]]>
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		<title>Repairing/Replacing External Fascia</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=358</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2007 11:16:30 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Noodles</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[What's the best environmental approach to repairing/replacing external roof fascias?  House was built around 1985, 2 bed semi type.]]>
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		<title>Planners' skips?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=353</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jun 2007 17:08:51 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>juliahm</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[This may be a rather wacky idea, but we were gazing longingly into the skip outside our local planning office, which is being refurbished. It was full of odd bricks, tiles, and window frames, all heading for landfill. If all the planners' offices in Britain were compelled to deliver their samples to a central depot, then community projects and self-builders could reclaim all these materials. Would this result in 'junk architecture' or in a creative and free build? <br /><br />Just a thought to share!]]>
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		<title>Funny Money</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=352</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jun 2007 11:15:43 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Is government funding into the private sector for R&amp;D a form of social manipulation? it strikes me that it is getting out of hand. As it is public funds are there some form of third party scrutiny measure in-place? <br /><br />Our own (green building) sector is not free of this. In fact we will see it explode even more in the coming year or two. Perhaps Government R&amp;D bodies should have stayed property of the public then chasers of such funding would not have become so prolific.<br /><br />I'm sure that some good work will have come out of some of the funding but I've often seen better work steamrollered out of the way by other organisations that secured what I have come to call  'funny money'. <br /><br />My biggest concern is that it will be the  'who you know teams' rather than 'what you know teams' that deliver the R&amp;D for our future. Not the perfect solution in my mind.<br /><br />Therefore would we be better off without government manipulation of business and society with this funding so that the best solutions can 'naturally' float to the top?]]>
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		<title>Ecohome + 10</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=354</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jun 2007 17:26:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[The CREATE Ecohome is ten years old this year. Weâ€™re marking this anniversary with an exciting summer line-up of activities. For more information see www.bristol.gov.uk/create or call CREATE on 0117 925 0505. Admission to all events is FREE.<br /><br />20 June - 8 September: Exhibition: Ecohome + 10: Designing the green homes of the future. What will the homes of the future look like? Building for the Future editor Keith Hall is among the leading environmental and building figures who have contributed their thoughts and nominated inspirational projects - from real-life homes to blue-sky thinking. (Other contributors include Kevin McCloud, Richard Rogers, Jonathan Porritt, Wayne Hemingway, Dick Strawbridge and Sue Roaf.) Thereâ€™s also a chance for visitors to have a say. Open Mon - Fri  9 - 5 pm plus certain weekends - see website for details.<br /><br />Weds 20 June: Debate: Ecohomes - Where Next? The CREATE Ecohome is 10 years old this year - how would it look if we built it today? How can we build zero carbon homes and improve the environmental performance of existing housing? Architecture Week debate chaired by George Ferguson with presentations by panel members Craig White (White Design), Lucy Pedler (Green Register), Richard Silverman (Under the Sky), David Michael (Co-Housing Company) and Ecohome architect Richard Swann. 5.30 pm (exhibition viewing and Ecohome open), debate 6.30 - 8.30 pm. Free but booking advised; tickets must be collected by 6 pm. To reserve a ticket please call CREATE Reception on 0117 925 0505.<br /><br />Sun 1 July: Ecohome all-day birthday party. Help us celebrate the Ecohome's 10th birthday with hands-on eco activities for young and old, plus bar, music and cafe. 11 am - 5 pm.<br /><br />4 July, 1 August, 5 September: Late Night Ecohome open evenings continue on the first Wednesday of the month throughout the summer until September, with experts on hand to answer questions on different eco themes. See website for more information. 4 - 8 pm.<br /><br />CREATE Centre and Ecohome, Smeaton Road, Bristol BS1 6XN<br />Tel. 0117 925 0505; www.bristol.gov.uk/create]]>
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		<title>thermal stores plate heat exchangers and central heating</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=346</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:49:30 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>martinlta</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi <br />Can I use a plate heat exchanger (type as used in gas boilers e.g. vaillant heat exchanger 00193640/06) to pass excess heat from a thermal store at 70-80C to the central heating (pressurised) return at 40C.    The thermal store would be unpressurised and fed from wood stove and solar sources.<br /><br />thanks]]>
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		<title>Insulated faÃ§ade systems - Suppliers?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=344</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:28:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>alexc</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi, <br /><br />  I am interested in finding off-site constructed insulated faÃ§ade systems for multi-storey buildings, such as Kingspanâ€™s offsite system (http://www.kingspanoffsite.com/afs/index.html).  Does anybody know any other suppliers?<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />alex]]>
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		<title>External Insulation Eves Detailing</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=348</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Jun 2007 08:36:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Bowman</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We are considering external insulation on our next renovation of a thoroughly conventional bungalow, probably soft board, does anyone have any experience or ideas with how to deal with cold bridging across the wall plate and eves? I was considering converting the roof from cold to warm with either soft board or foil, and extending the insulation down to plate to meet up with the external insulation as much as possible. Access to eves/plate is going to be a problem from the inside due to shallow pitch and I'd like to avoid stripping the lower rows of tiles off.<br /><br />Any thoughts much appreciated.]]>
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		<title>Are we sleepwalking into the arms of Big Brother?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=345</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:44:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Keith Hall</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I was listening to Radio 4 again last night and they briefly discussed personal Carbon Credits. It seems likely that something along the lines of a credit card type system (where people who do not use up an allocation can sell their unused credits to people who want to do more than they are allocated) may get introduced before too long. With it almost certain that Carbon trading between business has turned out to be little more than a money earner with barely measurable use to the environment, what makes us think that a personal trading system will be anything other than a new way of taking money from the many to hand on to the few? OR am I being too skeptical again?<br /><br />Maybe the Carbon Credit card can be doubled up with an identity card. Now there's a thought!]]>
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		<title>Hot tank - more than one heat sources</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=343</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:13:46 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>patrick</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We are told that solar hot water (storage), systems need a second coil in the hot water tank.<br />I have a project that needs a large tank for 8 people and 3 showers.  (I have persuaded then not to have a bath).<br /><br />For most of the year the climate is hot/sunny enough to run on solar thermal (with a big tank).  But for 2 or 3 months it gets a bit chilly and I plan to install 2 small wood stoves with water heaters.  The 2 wood burners and the Solar will all be feeding a single indirect heating coil in the tank.<br /><br />I have worked how to do this in theory but has anyone experience of feeding one coil from more than one heat sources?]]>
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		<title>External insulation of solid stone walls</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=316</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 25 May 2007 15:06:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Astro</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi, this is Astro's first post. I am renovating a very small ground floor flat in an old house in Bulgaria and have exposed 2 outer stone walls in the bedroom (approx. 18m2 total). Since winter temperatures can reach -20C I am wondering whether it would be a good idea to insulate the external surface of the walls (eg 5cm AAC), or is 50cm thickness of stone (no cavity) sufficient insulation in itself. Or maybe 10cm ACC or polyurethane squares would be advisable? Maybe exposing walls will make the room too difficult to heat in winter and I am mad to consider it at all, and should insulate the walls on the inside! The lower third of the longer wall is underground, too. The builders have dug an external drainage trench and laid a plastic membrane against the external surface. I am wondering if it might be worth laying insulation (eg polyurethane squares) against the membrane, but am assuming that earth plus waterproof membrane is sufficient? <br /><br />Any ideas much appreciated...]]>
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		<title>internal stone wall</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=340</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jun 2007 00:51:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>steph</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Just a question really. I have an internal stone wall, by the side of a brick fire place, and over time, a white furry substance appears on the stone, does anybody know what it is and how I can stop this??]]>
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		<title>Ventilation options for pre-heating</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=332</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jun 2007 09:04:29 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>max</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have scanned all the topics on this forum and can't find anything that<br />covers my query so here goes. I am trying to get my head round ventilation<br />and what would be best to install in a highly insulated  masonry eco home - ventilation that doesn't just evacuate the warm air. . There's passive whole house, mechanical with heat recovery (MVHR) and even a type that extra heat can be added to the incoming air. There's also a new gizmo on the market now called dwell-vent windows, where air enters the house via the gap between the inner and outer pane of a window and is said to warm up in the process.  But how does that<br />impact on the whole ventilation. Will bathroom air still evacuate.?   As if it wasn't complicated enough I have this past week come across bespoke systems whereby air is drawn through an underground pipe into the house, claiming to warm it up in winter and cool it down in summer. REHAU also do a ground to air system called Awardukt. This sounds a clever idea but I've not read anything from users about  how this impacts on the whole house ventilation.<br /><br />Has anyone any useful tips to pass on about ventilation and these different perhaps complementary products?]]>
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		<title>Solar panels - going for overkill</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=331</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2007 21:58:35 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Jeff B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Excluding cost considerations, would there be any objections to installing say 3.6 sq. meters of panels rather than the calculated 2.4 sq. meters? The extra cost would not be that much and hopefully I would benefit from extra free heat transfer during the spring and autumn months. Comments welcome.]]>
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		<title>Fuel Cells - When?!?!?!</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=328</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2007 11:15:51 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>TomN</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[When are these fuel cells going to start appearing?<br /><br />I know that there are a few token ones dotted around the place and a search on the internet seems to show that there are dozens of companies that have units in development but they are taking too long!<br /><br />Does anyone know of any units that are available for private homes (~3kWe)?]]>
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		<title>Heat Loss Calcs and Air Changes</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=297</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 09:12:21 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Leo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm in the process of measuring my house to do heat loss calculations throughout. I haven't done this before and a couple of things have struck me:<br /><br />All the sources I've seen on this give air change figures that appear to be taken 'as standard' from I don't know where. This may be fine dealing with new build where there is design intention for specific rooms to have specific ventillation rates, but is there some way I can make a more informed estimate for the rooms in my 1880s house?<br /><br />Further to this, a number of rooms on the ground floor have been knocked through at some point. This includes open plan access into a glass-roofed kitchen extension, that I'm guessing wouldn't pass regs today. Airflow is therefore hugely important in working out where all the heat is going. Rather than treat this interconnected area all as one room (which it isn't) It seems sensible to treat the regions as separate rooms. This would also allow me to model what happens if I re-partition them in various ways, as well as telling me if the existing rads are sized correctly for the current layout. But how do I work out air changes based on the size of the openings between them?]]>
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		<title>Green Building magazine - autumn 2007 theme - Roofs</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=329</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=329</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 May 2007 12:52:54 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Roofs will be the theme of the autumn edition so I'd appreciate suggestions, ideas for research and offers of stories on this theme.<br /><br />A few thoughts to kick off with.<br /><br />* Practical upgrading of roofs on old buildings from an insulation viewpoint.<br /><br />* Green roofs of course (could this subject get boring?) - no not if we were to carry practical experiences of how easy to achieve, problems, we probably know most of the advantages already.<br /><br />* Renewables on roofs. lets talk about the practical aspects, costs and dare I say payback. <br /><br />* sustainable roof coverings (what are they). Are they they best option or should we keep to the high tech solutions. Remembering that most green roofs use hightech solutions hidden below them.<br /><br />I've missed loads of sub-subjects so please please jump in here.]]>
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		<title>Green Roofs 2007 - London</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=307</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=307</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 May 2007 19:39:31 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[This Event will run on: 19/06/2007<br /><br />Green Roofs 2007 is the only UK conference specifically aimed at architects and focuses solely on living roof technology. Delegates will hear a detailed cost-benefit analysis, get insights into the green roof process from the contractor's perspective and discover how to avoid the common pitfalls to ensure their green roof projects are a success.<br /><br />Industry experts who will deliver presentations at the event include:<br />Dusty Gedge, Founder, Living Roofs<br />Dr Alun Rhysâ€“Tarr, Director, Blackdown Horticultural Consultants<br />Jonathan Hines, Director, Architype<br />Jim Hooker, Secretary, Single Ply Roofing Association<br />Peter Wilder, Partner, Macfarlane Wilder<br />Dr Nigel Dunnett, Senior Lecturer, The University of Sheffield<br />Liam Foster, Consultant, Hyder Consulting<br />Paul Collins, Head of Designed Environment, Nottingham Trent University<br /><br />For details of the full programme and to register please visit www.ajgreenroofs.co.uk or call 0845 056 8069. <br /><br />Organised by The Architectsâ€™ Journal]]>
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		<title>recycling warm air</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=322</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=322</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 May 2007 18:06:05 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>geoffnet</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We virtually live in a kitchen with a high (11ft6&quot;) ceiling. I'm fed up with forking out to heat the light bulbs. Any suggestions for a warm air recycling system that won't look a disaster, make a lot of noise? I'm sorry if this is a well trodden path, but I can't find a reference to it in past discussions.]]>
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		<title>Eco-pads! - How big is big enough?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=283</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=283</guid>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 May 2007 16:33:30 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>GBP-Keith</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We are featuring this revolving eco-pad to be built using reclaimed tyres in the walls in the next edition of the magazine. It is big! <br /><br />large - perhaps over-large houses being called green buildings sticks in the throat a little. What do others think?  Should a home have a maximum floor area to rightly call itself eco. Should the Code for Sustainable Homes (and other standards) address this issue?<br /><br />http://www.mistral-pr.co.uk/library/ashtonclose.htm]]>
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		<title>central heating, whats best?</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=323</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=323</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 May 2007 19:31:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>no1smiles2000</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi all, i'm new here :)<br />I am looking to buy a house which is off the mains gas network and currently has no heating! all it has is a coal fire with back boiler for hot water.<br />Its a semi detached 3 bed house not sure about insulation etc but i will also have to get double glazing installed!<br />just dont know what sort of heating would be best and most ecconomical so all ideas will be greatly appreciated!<br />Thanks Katie]]>
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