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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    Has anyone here installed PV-T panels? They would seem a perfect option for us as we are not allowed to put solar on our roof, but may be able to put them onto a smaller outbuilding that has an east-west facing roof.

    We've pondered whether to use solar thermal (we have an unused solar coil in our heatbank) as we'd get more energy from this smaller surface area, but then solar PV has more uses and will work in lower light conditions.

    I stumbled across an article about PV-T panels and thought that this would be the perfect solution for us. The same panel produces both hot water and electricity, maximising the amount of energy we could get from the roof. They are MCS approved and so we could receive the FITs payments, but they would also qualify for RHI (if that ever happens).

    Here is the article and a snippet of the content:

    http://www.mcsapprovedinstallers.co.uk/blog/what-is-solar-pvt/

    "Solar PVT is a solar system that combines both solar PV (for generating electricity) and solar thermal (for generating hot water). Typically these two types of energy are collected through separate panels, but with solar PVT only one panel is used.

    As Solar PV modules are semiconductors, they have one draw back, which is degradation in high temperatures. In hot summer days the heat between the solar array and the roof can reach up to 100ºc, which makes them much less efficient. Solar PV panels therefore work best in low temperatures. With solar PVT the thermal part of the system takes away some of the excess heat, meaning the solar PV part performs more efficiently and the excess heat is utilised."

    The article goes on to discuss the pros and cons. There are more technical articles available on the subject, but this ones gives a decent overview for those (like me) who haven't heard of these panels before.

    Note: PV-T aren't those Solar Thermal panels with a small square of PV to run the water pump on solar energy, but a full sized PV panel combined with a full sized solar thermal panel.
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeApr 24th 2013
     
    Posted By: Pile-o-StoneHas anyone here installed PV-T panels?

    Certainly discussed before.

    When I considered them (almost 3 years ago) part of the problem was that we'd need a massive heat demand (e.g. a nursing home level of DHW / heating need, which doesn't describe us at all) in order to soak up the heat from a good sized PV array. Plus there was a dichotomy - you want your panels cool, but your water hot. If we were pumping (& using up) the heat fast enough to keep the panel temp down signiicantly we'd have had a very large quantity of not terribly hot water. If we were pumping slow enough to get good hot water, we'd not have cool panels.

    Maybe things have changed since then (but if so it isn't likely to be the physics that has changed)?
  2.  
    Sorry, I did a quick search on 'PV-T' to see if it had been discussed but didn't find anything.

    As far as the temperature of the panels, I guess it really depends on what you are doing with the hot water. If you are feeding into into a standard (small) hot water cylinder then it could quickly heat up the store and then and then the return to the panel could be high temperature. If you have a large heatbank/thermal store then the return to the panels could be quite cool for a much longer period. If you are using it to recharge a GSHP loop, either the slinky type ot borehole then the return will constantly be cool (about 14C?)

    It would be interesting to know what sorts of temperatures PV panels reach in direct sunlight, full sunlight (noon) and overcast conditions. I read that in full sunlight PV can get well over 100C and I'd imagine that in overcast conditions it could still get up around 20C/40C? If that's the case, then the solar thermal part will eliminate the very high temperatures in full sunlight, reduce the high temperatures in direct sunlight and have little effect in overcast conditions because it won't get hot enough for the pump to come on.

    I can't really imagine a scenario where the PV panels get hotter because of the solar thermal element, especially if the system is designed correctly with a method dumping excess heat once the thermal store/HW cylinder is full?
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    Posted By: Pile-o-Stone...If you are using it to recharge a GSHP loop...if the system is designed correctly with a method dumping excess heat once the thermal store/HW cylinder is full?

    Indeed. If you have a GSHP loop to recharge, then maybe you have a dump capable of keeping a good sized array cool in bright sunlight? Most domestic properties probably don't.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    If it were a new build you could no doubt use the heat in a seasonal thermal energy store under the house. But, would the heat loss be sufficient?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    Posted By: Pile-o-StoneSorry, I did a quick search on 'PV-T' to see if it had been discussed but didn't find anything.
    Are they hidden in here

    http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/search.php?PostBackAction=Search&Keywords=pv-t&Type=Topics&btnSubmit=Search
  3.  
    Thanks ST. I'll get a brew, pop into that link and have a read.

    I've just been looking at research on the internet and found:

    "The Effect of High Temperatures
    The energy production efficiency of solar panels drops when the panel reaches hot temperatures. A field experiment in the United Kingdom revealed a drop of 1.1% of peak output for every increase in degrees Celsius of a home photovoltaic solar panel once the panel reached 42 degrees Celsius, or about 107 degrees Fahrenheit See Reference 1, conclusion). Laboratory experiments at the Rivers State University of Science and Technology at Port Harcourt, Nigeria in 2008 found similar results; solar panel energy production dropped off steadily once the panel temperature reached 44 degrees Celsius, or 111 degrees Fahrenheit (See Reference 2, Table 1). "

    http://greenliving.nationalgeographic.com/effects-temperature-solar-panel-power-production-20500.html

    If the efficiency only starts to drop off at 42 to 44C, then this is a much more reasonable temperature to be able to reduce the return feed from a heatbank, heating system or dump radiators. Even if the best you could do is to get a return temperature of 60C, it'd make a PV panel more efficient than having it heat up to +80C in direct sunlight?

    Everything I have read points to this technology returning far more solar energy from a given roof space than PV or solar heating alone. In our circumstances with a small roof space and a eatbank with solar coil, it would seem to be ideal.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    What solar power did they check the panels at, was it 800 or 1000 W/m^2, if it was at 800 then the effect may not be so great at 1000, but just guessing there.
  4.  
    Thanks for the links ST. I've continued the discussion on the original thread so this thread can now be closed.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    Posted By: Pile-o-StoneIf the efficiency only starts to drop off at 42 to 44C,
    Nope, I think it's across the range. My understanding is that the peak-power current is determined by the sunlight (roughly proportional) whereas the voltage is determined by the temperature, reducing as the temperature increases and increasing as the temperature decreases.

    Cold panels can produce higher peak-power and open-circuit voltages. You have to make sure, for example, that the open circuit voltage of the panel strings will be less than the maximum input voltage of your controller at all plausible temperatures - the usual thing is to calculate this for the coldest temperature recorded in your area. With a safety margin, of course.
  5.  
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: Pile-o-StoneIf the efficiency only starts to drop off at 42 to 44C,
    Nope, I think it's across the range.


    The national geographic report that I cited mentioned the 42C to 44C drop off point.

    "A field experiment in the United Kingdom revealed a drop of 1.1% of peak output for every increase in degrees Celsius of a home photovoltaic solar panel *once* the panel reached 42 degrees Celsius"
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeApr 25th 2013
     
    Try the Morningstar calculator at:

    http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/strings/calc.php

    Using Yingli YL220 (HSP) panels (whatever those are) into a Morningstar TriStar MPPT-60 with a single panel and trying different record low temperatures I get:

    Temperature: 0 °C; max Voc: 39.375 V.
    Temperature: -10 °C; max Voc: 40.725 V.
    Temperature: -20 °C; max Voc: 42.075 V.
  6.  
    Basic laws of physics with semiconductors Im afraid - increase in temperature = increase in resistance = drop in performance. Havent we all had a hot laptop which just goes slower and slower? As the processor heats up, the PC management sheds operations thus making things slower to prevent frying.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeApr 28th 2013
     
    Actually, semiconductors tend to have negative temperature coefficients:

    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_do_the_semiconductors_have_negative_temperature_coefficient_whereas_the_metals_have_positive_values

    AIUI, the main effect of increased temperature on PV cells is to reduce the forward voltage drop across the main semiconductor junction

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode#Temperature_measurements

    thereby more severely limiting the output voltage. There's a small increase in the output current with increased temperature but this is about 1/10th of the voltage decrease so the nett power available is less at higher temperatures.
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