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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Has anyone used ASHP purely for heating DHW instead of solar panels or is it overkill? I also saw the thermodynamic panels recently at the build show and thought of running it in conjunction with the PV, however the panels are expensive. I've read the threads on the panels, had anyone got any first hand knowledge of running costs and whether they do what they say on the tin.

    Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.

    Cheers.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Where about in the world are you, that makes a difference to what you choose.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Hi Steamy,
    We are in the Scottish Borders......
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Not familiar with that area at all, but you should be able to get hourly temperature, solar radiation and hours of sunlight data easily enough and you can work from that to compare between them.
    I suspect that ASHP would be the most reliable/consistent but the most expensive.
  1.  
    From what I have read on the thermodynamic panels I personally will be steering clear.

    Here for example is one comment about them that raised a red flag for me.

    "Biggest problem with these systems is you can only control the superheat across the evaporator in a very close range. If its too cold theres no superheat and liquid returns to your compressor causing damage. If its too warm you get too much superheat and the overheated gas cooks the compressor. Neither a good situation.
    You cannot control this without a motive force speeding up or slowing down the energy collected. Its not like its a new technology. Was used in NZ years ago and was abandoned for the same reason, its also no different to the ice stick which has similar problems."

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=84299470&postcount=76

    All the manufacturers are in Spain and Portugal where they don't have the problems caused by our colder winters.

    Is this a new build Bob or do you have any existing equipment in place?

    In my own new build my space heat demand is roughly the same as my DHW demand and having crunched the numbers I will install a 5kW Ecodan ASHP to provide both year round.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Hi Chris,
    Many thanks for your help.

    Yes, it is a new build, 142mm sips panel with 90mm insulation on inside, two small wood burners but other than towel rails hopefully no further space heating necessary, just trying to get the most efficient and cost effective way for DHW. Was planning on 4kw PV and solar thermal for DHW with immersion top up when necessary.

    Steamy, I'll have a look at the data, the site is southish facing so we should pick up all available light. I was wondering if a small ASHP will provide enough of the DHW to make it worthwhile.

    Thanks again.
  2.  
    It depends on how much you pay for the ASHP, how much hot water you use, the water temperature the ASHP is capable of & the coefficient of performance (COP) it achieves at that water temperature.

    There are a number of dedicated ASHP based hot water systems from the big names in air conditioning which achieve COPs of 2 or more at 55 degrees C. These are likely to be the cheapest options & should be cheaper to install than solar thermal.

    Do you know how many litres of hot water you use per day & the temperature this is stored at?

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Hi David,
    Two adults and two Pre-teen kids, four showers a day max, though sometimes taken under duress, depends how muddy!!

    We would plan only to heat to 45-50 and then do a legionella boost cycle as necessary. Who are the BIg names in air conditioning? We had a quote for ASHP, however, that was for space heating as well, which we don't need; an 11kw unit which came in around £10k installed with ufh.

    Bob
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    If you go down the ASHP route you need to know the COP at different air temperatures. Then you can see how often you will not be able to reach the desired water temperature without supplementary heating being needed. You will also be able to see what sort of energy is needed to the ASHP (the kW(electricity) x time x COP).
    So if your COP is 3 at an ambient temperature of 10°C and you need 10 kWh of heating to get your water to 55°C and your electrical input is 2 kW, then you need to run it for 1 hour 40 minute, costing you (at 15p/kWh) 50p
    But if the COP is 1.5 at 3°C ambient, then you need to run it for 3 hours 20 minutes, that will cost £1

    So look at suitable ASHP and get the performance figures, get the weather data, a spread sheet and waste a few evenings, good luck :bigsmile:
  3.  
    You should be looking at around £5k supply only on the 5 kW Mitsubishi Ecodan with a 180 litre Kingspan tank. That should adequately cover your needs.

    I'm on the very south coast of Sweden so at a very similar latitude to yourself and a similar family size. As we are in a village it was a personal decision not to have any wood burners to pollute the neighbours with!

    It's always difficult to estimate DHW demand but ours is presently somewhere under 3,000kWhrs/a but could well rise to 5,000kWhrs when the kids become teenagers.

    You can do some calculations of what that will cost to heat by immersion with your current tariff, I'd guess that you will probably not get a payback on installing a heat pump for DHW alone particularly if if you can heat the tank overnight on E7.

    It could well be that your best solution is to install a cheap direct electric water heater and install PV to offset some of it's consumption.

    [Edit] Regarding the COP as mentioned by ST, I have based my calculations of a SPF (seasonal performance factor) of around 2.5 this takes into account the varying COP during the year depending on the ambient weather and heat demand. If you are using the heat pump only for DHW your SPF should be better than 3 as you are not losing out to a higher space heat demand in the winter when your COP is worst.

    Just to hang some numbers on that:

    If your DHW demand is 3,000kWhrs and your electricity is costing you 15p a unit this is going to cost you £450 a year.

    With an ASHP with a SPF of 3 it will cost you £150 a year so a saving of £300 a year.

    If the ASHP costs you £6,000 more to install than a simple immersion + tank then you are looking at a simple payback period of 20 years. (no inflation accounted for)

    As I say if you numbers are similar to mine you won't have a reasonable payback on an ASHP which will probably only have a useful life of 15 years and will probably need servicing7repairs in that time also.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    I know the perfect person for that.....my wife:bigsmile:!!

    As ever, many thanks indeed!

    I have just spoken to Mitsubishi about the ecodan, they do a 8.5kw with 300l solar tank for £4650+V

    I'll try and find the cop data, do you know where you can find the cop for different temps, all I can see on the brochure and website is a cop of 3.13 at an outside temp of between 2 & 7 degrees

    Cheers.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Chris,

    Many thanks for that, a mine of information. We'll have a chat about it and go from there.

    Thank you for all your help.

    Cheers.

    Bob
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Go with a large deliberately oversized ST array with excess summer heat stored underground in AGS/solar dump or other large thermal mass area. With Emerson backup I suspect all above would be far cheaper than any ASHP system. We have this system and it works great. Quick to recharge and we have usable hot water even on hot days. Only have to use EH 4/5 this year.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Hi an02ew,

    Could you specify exactly what you have for me? Sorry, don't know the acronym AGS :shamed:

    Cheers
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Check GBF for AGS annualised geothermal store or google. Also solar heat dump. My system was detailed in post see my comments on thread "ample funds good sized plot but what to build"
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Ok, will do....thanks. I'd never heard of it but will have a gander.

    Cheers
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    an02ew 3 days ago edited edit quote
    My gut feeling is that experimenting with theoretical solution to” without heating design” is going to a bridge too far (shame) however if he walks down the low energy path he will eventually come up against the problem of how much space heating is required how to deliver it and the insatiable demand for DHW and how to deliver that. Creating the dilemma of how much money /effort to put into the low energy side.

    Having completed our home in December which I have to admit we are very happy with the super insulated airtight as a submarine design and i would always champion this method of building, to solve our heating dilemma we have 80 ET to PAW drainblock to 200l cylinder, this provide a super quick recharge and a little heat to 2 DIY copper towel rails, and emersion back up that I am glad to say has only been used 4/5 times, we also have a “Pertinger” wood burning oven with back boiler for the winter months, this hasn’t been lit since mid-April. In many ways our build was easier as we had to incorporate/ upgrade the existing 300 year old cottage this gave us a theme that was easy to carry through our build, however to start from scratch with nothing to follow is a real test in many ways every single element that is decided says something about you and has to be justified. It’s a real standing naked with it all blowing in the wind moment.

    As a separate point I would like to thank all you on the GBF for your help in 2012 with all those tricky decision and technical problem our home would not work so well without your input.

    Many many thanks

    Andrew
    • CommentAuthorMikel
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    I went to a talk a couple of years ago about Sanyo ASHP using CO2 as refrigerant. Supposedly developed for the Japanese market where they use a lot of hot water. Might be worth seeing if there is any experience of these in the past two years.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    I just had a look at the sales/data sheet for the Vaillant Air to Water HP and the small chart on page 8 does not make much sense to me. Seems at 55°C flow temp the 4 kW model is using a supplementary heater when it is below 7°C Ambient, or have I misunderstood something.

    www.vaillant.co.uk/stepone2/data/downloads/dc/43/00/air+water+heat+pump+pocket+guide.pdf?time%3D0
  4.  
    I don't follow you which figures look suspect to you?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Why I think I have missed something.
    Should the COP not be lowest at the coldest temperature and highest at the highest temperature. Seems that is is starting high, then dipping and then increasing again.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Posted By: MikelI went to a talk a couple of years ago about Sanyo ASHP using CO2 as refrigerant. Supposedly developed for the Japanese market where they use a lot of hot water. Might be worth seeing if there is any experience of these in the past two years.

    Ecocute is the keyword to use if you want to search on this technology.
  5.  
    Posted By: Chris P BaconI don't follow you which figures look suspect to you?
    The one that looks wrong to me is the CoP of 2.56 in the 4kW column of the lower table. It doesn't seem to fit with the figures in the same column for higher outdoor temperatures. In other words, you seem to get a better CoP at -5 degrees C than at 7 degrees C!

    David
  6.  
    Indeed that figure seems out of place a typo I"d imagine. Time for an email to their technical dept. ST!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 22nd 2013
     
    Time for someone to tell them, I could do with some work :wink:
    CoP figures are not that good for that particular model and if the kW figures for the 6 kW model are extrapolated then you need an ambient temperature of 10°C to get 6 kW out and the CoP at that temp will be about 2.8 and about 1.4 at -20°C.

    There does seem to be a lack of easily available data about Air to Water Heat Pumps.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2013 edited
     
    Brunei Bob

    If you just want to heat DHW with an ASHP, why not use an Ecocent or similar ASHP cylinder at circa £2,000 + VAT? Duct it from outside or the loft and switch over to an immersion when it gets down to 0 deg C to reduce wear on the compressor.

    Alternatively, go for a Hitachi Yutempo direct refrigerant split model with external condenser. SCOP of 3.1 approx. Cost circa £2,000 + VAT + installation (say £500).

    Both these are optimised for DHW temperatures and will perform better than a larger monobloc ASHP unit with primary wet circuit.
    •  
      CommentAuthorBrunei Bob
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2013
     
    Hi All,
    Many thanks for your thoughts. We have decided to stick with the two log burners, one in the living Kitchen area and make the one in the living room a back boiler with heat dump to towel rails. With the stoves being the only form of heating in the house they will be lit all winter anyway so we may as well make use of them to heat water. Hopefully the solar and PV will provide most of the DHW in the summer. The pV installer suggested an Immersun to make best use of the PV in the summer.
    We have got the SAP 2009 calcs back, but to be honest, I really don't know which are the important numbers to be looking at!!
    From other posts it seems box 37 total fabric loss is one to look at? We have 103.26.......good/bad? Who knows?
    The summary is fairly straightforward - Rating - 98, band A
    Whether the build actually meets this is down to us sealing round windows etc and detailing.

    Any other numbers / boxes we should look at?
    Foundations started, SIPS arrive end of the month!
    Cheers
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2013
     
    Bob, a couple of thoughts on your house performance, rather than the ASHP discussion. If you've got 142mm plus 90mm (assuming PU) then you've got excellent Uvalues (guessing 0.1 or less) You really need to focus on the air tightness, otherwise you'll have wasted the effort on insulation (assuming MVHR).

    You mention about running the log burners all winter - I suspect you'll have them on only a few hours each day. Get a reasonably sized log boiler stove, and a thermal store, light the log boiler stove at dinner time, and by bed time you'll have a full TS of hot water, and a warm house, until dinner time next day.

    Solar thermal will get you DHW for most of the summer, but from now till May, it will only make occassional contributions. I believe it's worth doing on a new build, if you don't have solar PV. My advice to you would be log boiler stove, thermal store, elecric immersions, solar PV - and years of no equipment to service or maintain.

    (I'm in Perthshire, passive style house, do this stuff for a living, so have a good unerstanding of your circumstances - geographical latitude makes a big difference).
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2013
     
    By the way, your heat loss of 103W/K is extremely good. When it's minus 15oC outside, you'll have a power demand of 3.5kW to maintain your house internal temps at 20oC. That's a very small log burner, as you won't want all of the 3.5kW output in one room (try "Barbie" for a suitably sized unit). Hence my suggestion of a log boiler stove, that will give out say 1 to 2kW as space heating, rest to water, and then distribute that via a wet system.

    Also, I'm surprised you only got a 98% for your house (which comparatively is superb), when you've got PV and burning logs, but it depends on the fine detail of the info input by the SAP assessor - they don't always get it right.
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