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			<title>Green Building Forum - Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10761&amp;Focus=177560#Comment_177560</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 15:28:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[How would you insulate the slope of a pitched roof with 400mm deep rafters? I have a possible roof design for my attic room using trusses that in effect create an extra deep rafter (without the weight if it was solid timber). Now I am wondering f this makes the insulation job easier or harder!  Looking at an unventilated roof (permeable membrane, battens  and counter battens, natural slate on top) so no need for gaps, and over a habitable attic room so need a good VCL in there too.<br /><br />Plenty of between rafter space to stuff with something.... Could fill it with cheap (0.044 W/mK) loft roll and still get a space heading towards a u value of 0.11 (not quite that because of the truss timber contribution), but how to keep the fluff up there before fitting the VCL and plasterboard? Could stick 400mm of PIR board in there, but it would be nice to save some build costs at this stage by using a cheaper material. Mineral wool bats perhaps? Pumped cellulose or foam?<br /><br />How can I insulate well and economically given the depth of this between "rafter" space?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 16:19:53 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>PeterStarck</author>
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			<![CDATA[Icynene or Knauf Supafil Frame would work but not cheap, but then are there any cheap loft rolls any more?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 16:54:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[I was asking myself the same question about a similar construction: 250 mm OSB I-beams with mineral wool between and 100 mm or so of PIR inboard. How to hold up the mineral wool until the PIR is in place? What I thought was sticks (e.g., short bits of batten material) wedged across the I-beam flanges until sheets are added below. Pull out as many as practical as the PIR is added. Not ideal but not the end of the world if one or two get left behind. Maybe even tie bits of string to the ends of the the sticks to make them possible to pull out. Could that be adapted to your trusses?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:05:05 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris P Bacon</author>
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			<![CDATA[I've just insulated a fairly similar roof build up.<br /><br />Our sloping roof is 500mm deep with an air gap formed under the sarking board with battens and hardboard.<br /><br />The VCL was fixed to the inside face of the trusses and counter battened with 95x20mm battens to which the plasterboard will be fixed.<br /><br />The resulting void was pumped with loose rockwool, this gives a calculated u-value of 0.082 <br /><br />The flat ceiling was similarly insulated to a depth of 750mm.<br /><br />Not sure if the loose mineral wool is available in the UK (I'm in Sweden) but a similar job could be done with cellulose.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:05:39 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: PeterStarck</cite>Icynene or Knauf Supafil Frame would work but not cheap, but then are there any cheap loft rolls any more?</blockquote>Works out about Â£3600 for Icynene to be sprayed, compared to Â£1300 for "Supaloft" (the recycled plastic stuff) plus fitting costs, have yet to do the numbers for 27m^3 of other materials. But the Icynene will be nice and air tight in every nook and cranny, while the Supaloft will be lots of plastic dangling around my head!<br /><br />If I could get a cheap loft roll, how could I install it between the rafters?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:10:55 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[No question about it, quilt, either fibreglass (my choice) or rockwool]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:14:52 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Chris P Bacon</cite>The resulting void was pumped with loose rockwool, this gives a calculated u-value of 0.082</blockquote> Yummy u value! Did each gap between rafters have to be pumped separately to avoid air pockets?<br /><br />Out of interest what was your truss structure? Any pictures?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:17:05 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: tony</cite>No question about it, quilt, either fibreglass (my choice) or rockwool</blockquote>But how to keep it up there? Temp sticks and strings like Ed suggests?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:34:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[I always fix the ceiling first, insulate next, then wiring then fix the deck, have lunch and waterproof the deck in the afternoon usually permanently sometimes just felt and battens or poly.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:41:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris P Bacon</author>
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			<![CDATA[This photo taken at an early stage of the build should give you a good idea of what our trusses look like.<br /><br />Are Rockwool Flexibatts available in the UK? Here you get them in thickness's of 45, 70, 95, 145, 170, 195 & 220mm and I find that the thicker ones are stiff enough to stay in place by themselves if cut very slightly oversize, if they are too big they will bow and fall out. At the very most a bit of string or some light netting would hold them in place until you come along with the PIR or VCL.<br /><br />If Rockwool don't have the flexibatts in the UK Paroc should have a similar product available.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 17:59:36 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: tony</cite>I always fix the ceiling first, insulate next, then wiring then fix the deck, have lunchâ€¦</blockquote><img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" /> And there was me hoping to get the whole house built before elevenses. <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/tongue.gif" alt=":tongue:" title=":tongue:" />]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 18:05:15 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>barney</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[1" chicken mesh on the inside  - easy to PB over in the living bits and no real problem in the non living bits<br /><br />Failing that, weed membrane is OK - youwant a narrow roll width though if it's trusses<br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Barney]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 18:29:49 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: barney</cite>Failing that, weed membrane is OK</blockquote>What I used in my loft.  Just stapled it in place.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 18:41:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris P Bacon</author>
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			<![CDATA[Just had a quick look at the rockwool.co.uk website and they have both the loose blown material and the flexi batts listed so both should be available.<br /><br />I wouldn't use the chicken wire if you are going over the top with VCL as they would be a danger of punctures.<br /><br />See if you can get a price from a contractor to blow in the loose rockwool, it will be the easiest solution IMO.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 21:43:50 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[But might settle <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" />]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 23:21:36 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rex</author>
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			<![CDATA[I have 300mm of blown Warmcell.  Not the cheapest but certainly keeps the house warm in the winter and cool in the summer.<br /><br />Rex]]>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 23:27:17 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[But might settle <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" /><br /><br />That's what put me off Warmcel. Also the lack of DIY install (in the UK).]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 06:30:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Chris P Bacon</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: tony</cite>But might settle <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" /></blockquote><br /><br />Mineral wool settles a lot less than cellulose (the figures I have seen are 2-4% vs. 10 -15%), I had a bad experience with cellulose in wall panels previously so was very cautious about using loose fill insulation again.<br /><br />I have over-filled the flat ceiling to a depth of 800mm so I would hope that this will compensate for any settlement that does occur.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 09:28:09 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>wavy</author>
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			<![CDATA[Netlon do a specific product to support batts / quilt:<br /><a href="http://www.tdpltd.com/netlon-products/insulation-support-net.html" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.tdpltd.com/netlon-products/insulation-support-net.html</a><br />Or you could use the green stuff from the garden centre.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:18:25 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>pmusgrove</author>
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			<![CDATA[When I had this problem I simply used strips of VCL not used and held the wool insulation up with that by stapling the strips to the rafters at about 300mm intervals; then boarded to hold it in place permanently.  Only 150mm of wool though (with 60mm Pavatherm on top of the rafters.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:56:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Fred56</author>
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			<![CDATA[I assume you are at 400 or 600mm rafter spacings.  Rockwool flexi just stays where you put it.  The inner rafter flange helps keep it in.  It's fairly resilient stuff.  Decent lambda value too, 140mm is 0.035.<br />I've done this job and it works.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:18:01 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tychwarel</author>
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			<![CDATA[I did mine at 600 spacing 300mm deep I beams using 3 100mm layers of Rockwool flexi with the joints staggered worked a treat with not the slightest tendency for the bats to fall out<br />[URL=http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/nantcoly/media/Ty%20chwarel%20build%20blog/roof%20insulation/100_1305.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc492/nantcoly/Ty%20chwarel%20build%20blog/roof%20insulation/100_1305.jpg[/IMG][/URL]<br /><br />[URL=http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/nantcoly/media/Ty%20chwarel%20build%20blog/roof%20insulation/100_1283.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc492/nantcoly/Ty%20chwarel%20build%20blog/roof%20insulation/100_1283.jpg[/IMG][/URL]]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:28:58 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tychwarel</author>
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			<![CDATA[this time with the photos]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:31:10 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tychwarel</author>
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			<![CDATA[and with foil VCL]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:43:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[Thanks tychwarel - that's more or less what I have in mind. I'd hoped the rockwool would mostly wedge in OK; my sticks suggestion above was really as a fallback for if it didn't. Useful to know.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 11:31:02 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
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			<![CDATA[Good to know (and see) that the friction held wool products work, thanks. However I am left wondering if the ease of use is worth the extra expense over using basic loft roll and netting or strapping (thanks for those ideas too). Something I would only find out half way through if it turned into a nightmare job.<br /><br />Had a look on the internet at pricing of possible materials, comparing thermal conductivity and cost per cubic meter:<br />Loft roll - basic 0.044 at Â£15 /m^3 or  0.04 for  Â£20 /m^3, convenient 200mm depth.<br />Flexible, semi-rigid slabs or roll - 0.032 to 0.038 for ~Â£55 /m^3 most 90 or 140mm(not filling 400mm) some 100mm.<br />"Rafter roll 32" - 0.032 for Â£100 /m^3 but 200mm depth available.<br />Wood fibre batts  - 0.038 for Â£100 /m^3<br /><br />Have to wonder what is the difference between Earthwool Rafter Roll and FrameTherm material  that makes it twice the price by volume! You can also see why floppy loft roll is attractive to my budget.<br /><br />Knauf, Isover, Rockwool and Superglass all make comparable categories of product so I should be spoiled for choice. I need to get some more prices, anything other than common loft roll is going to be a special order.<br /><br />Do I need a sarking board, or will the permeable membrane held taught by counter battens and battens be sufficient?]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:14:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Ed Davies</author>
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			<![CDATA[If you've decided on 400 mm depth for structural reasons it seems awfully unlikely that spending much more to get the U value down below 0.11 W/mÂ²Â·K will make much sense.<br /><br />It's a bit harder to decide when you've more freedom on the depth. The direct cost of insulation value for the more expensive materials is worse but the saving in structure around them needs to be balanced against that. Not easy when it's difficult to work out what the cost of the materials will be - one of many downsides to the lack of transparency in building pricing.]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:17:12 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[You don't need a sarking board, but it will make it a lot easier to make it windtight. Especially if you're using a low density/variable quality mineral wool product, its important that the insulation space is windtight.<br /><br />The high density Rafter Roll 32 mineral wool is a completely different product to the low density Loft Roll 44. You'll find lots of voids in the latter, non-uniform density & non-uniform thickness. That said, its not worth paying the extra unless you're targeting lower U values. <br /><br />The price doesn't just reflect the increased density & lower lambda, it also reflects the fact that the lower lambda allows you to use standard 200mm trussed rafters & still meet building regulations with a reasonable thickness of insulated plasterboard. I guess this is why the timber frame variant is more competitively priced.<br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10761&amp;Focus=177684#Comment_177684</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 15:14:22 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Greenfish</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Wind tightness - I am assuming that the fully tape sealed vapour permeable roof membrane will block the wind, but will have to take care at the eaves. A piece of insulation board glued in there for that perhaps?<br /><br />I have poked about with some loft roll, it really is a "low density/variable quality mineral wool product" as David says. I now have concerns that it is so soft that stacking 2 x 200mm layers, the weight of top one will compress the bottom, or the whole lot shift down the slope over time leaving a gap at the top hidden behind the plasterboard.  Going to take a closer look at product density and compression figures if I can find them.<br /><br />The "rafter" and "timber frame" variants do seem to offer comparable thermal conductivity for wildly different prices. I get why they are more than loft roll, but do they differ from each other other than the target market?<br /><br />The 400mm is for structural reasons Ed, but also offers an opportunity to hit better u values. Putting 500mm of (0.04) wool in the ceiling of the non-habitable loft parts, so it gives the space to match it in the attic. The remaining weak design is the flat roof (bit of everything in this build) that I have discussed that in another thread.<br /><br />I do wish the cost of materials was more available, I will post what I find out in case it is of use to others]]>
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		<title>Best insulation for between very deep rafters</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10761&amp;Focus=177691#Comment_177691</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:26:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>joe90</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I agree with Tony about working from the inside out. In my (theoretical) build I plan osb I beams, plasterboard with VCL, Cellulose then OSB and breathable felt etc. As you can buy loose warmcell for DIY loft insulation I planned to put the first fow of OSB sheets on at eaves level then pour warmcell down into the void, when full put the next row of OSB sheets on then fill again till you reach the ridge. I have read that dense warmcell has a better U value than "fluffy" so it could be pushed in to reach the density you require. If you make it quite dense then sagging should not be an issue.  Note:- this is all pure theory and yet to be tried but I recon it will work.]]>
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