Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




  1.  
    Have been talking to NBT regarding Diffutherm overcladding timber frame and acting as substrate; expensive but cann rander straight onto woodfibre.

    However they are quite keen on their Thermoplan, hollow core clay block system with an outer skin of Diffutherm: claiming higher decrement delay, better airtightness (Psi and Y values...?)

    Apparently its also more precise than brick and block ( or block / block), every little corner, special, accessory, glue etc all comes with the order (a bit like Huff House meets trad masonry).

    Indicative material prices look high but interested if labour reduced (claiming 3-4 times faster than trad)

    Any body any experience of this stuff?

    J
  2.  
    No: I don't think their proposal is very good.

    Wood-based products are not good insulants. "Real" insulation materials are much better. I accept you can render over the wood-based stuff, but putting mesh over modern insulation boards is not (I believe) that difficult.

    Hollow clay tile is great if you just build single skin and then render directly to both sides. Unfortunately, to get a low enough u value for the UK (rather than for the Med), you will need to put more insulation on, ideally on the outside, as the company you mentioned suggests. However, if you're going to do that, why pay extra for a material that combines structural properties with insulation (and hence isn't very good at either)? Why not get a cheap structural material, such asthe cheapest 150mm blocks you can buy (these would also have more heat capacity), and then fit phenolic or PIR boards to the outside. This will be thinner, warmer, and (I predict, although I do not know the costs of your proposal) cheaper.
  3.  
    I've used the Ziegel system and, while it looks great in theory, it has its drawbacks. As the blocks are effectively glued together rather than laid on a bed, the levels have to be absolutely perfect from the foundations upwards, and you need well above-average competence in your block layers. Even then, it's a slower process than concrete block laying unless they're very familiar with it. The labour-reducing claim needs to be taken with a large pinch of salt.

    And make sure your architect is familiar with the block dimensions, as they are different to the standard concrete block - which means a lot of cutting if you have window heights and general specs based on the UK standard. That said, they're fairly easy to cut with an alligator saw, albeit the process is slower, noiser and messier than cutting a standard block.

    Until they're rendered the blocks are very fragile - you need to explain to sparks and plumbers that they can't just go chasing out for the first fix, and to plasterers and renderers that a wheelbarrow knocked against the wall will probably shatter the block! To satisfy building control I had to use the BR39 render and mesh system specified by Ziegel, and this is far more expensive than traditional lime or lime/hemp render, taking the overall cost to new levels of pain!

    My client chose the Ziegel blocks because their embodied energy was less than concrete blocks, but after they were shipped from German to Ireland and then to the UK I wonder if the energy used in transportation didn't cancel that out. They are also significantly more expensive than standard blocks. So, taking all that into account, I would not wish to use the system again, and neither would my client. I would agree with passivhausfan - go with blocks and use extra insulation for a cheaper and more efficient solution.
  4.  
    Thanks chaps,

    As expected some high quality feedback, unfortunately confirming my concerns.

    Looks like plaster on dense block, 150 full mineral fibre cavity, lightweighgt block, 50-70 EPS insulation with render on mesh for eg. would be much cheaper, better/ equal performing albeit at a higher impact, although at the mo' they're imported from Germany, so careful choice of local block supplier could mitigate the difference.

    Also have heard suggestion of solid masonary w/ external insulation on this site... (I suppose: plaster-215 light block-120-150 Rigid PU insulation-polymer render on mesh...?) ...thoughts gentlemen/ladies...?

    J
  5.  
    I would go for 150mm dense blocks with 150mm of Kingspan externally then meshed and rendered as suggested above. You can't get cheaper or simpler I shouldn't think.

    What I can't get a proper answer on is whether a single skin of 150mm dense blocks is compliant with building regs from a structural point of view? Anybody?

    If a cavity wall of two skins of 100mm blocks with a 300mm cavity passes, then I would think a solid wall would be better structurally than this. This suggests that something less than 200mm would be sufficient, but how thin can you go? Any structural enginners out there who could give us an answer?

    I've also thought about dry stacking hollow 150mm blocks and filling every fourth hole with concrete with a rebar through it, filling the rest of holes with sand or spoilt out of the footings. Any thoughts on that idea?
  6.  
    EDIT

    Thought I'd better amend "thoughts gentlemen" to "gentlemen / ladies".

    J
  7.  
    Chris,

    Good points, look forward to any input on the 'solid wall' front.

    RE: drystacking: Doesnt seem very H+S friendly, although the rest especially the filling of hollow core blocks with excavation material sounds a winner.

    J
  8.  
    As I understand it, one of the reasons NBT advocate this way of building is the vapour openness and hygroscopicity of the blocks and the wood fibre insulation, together with the recommended lime mortars and plasters.

    The idea is that these features will reduce the likelihood of interior humidity problems and also of any problems from interstitial condensation and protect the structural integrity of the wall.

    An important point is that all the elements of the build are similar in these respects, and so support each other.

    Some details in this document

    http://www.naturalinsulation.co.uk/cms_items/20060607164406.pdf

    eg

    “When a render goes onto a capillary open material such as soft brickwork, and water for some reason penetrates that render, the soft brickwork will diffuse the water and relieve the pressure on the render, ensuring that there is no frost damage, or separation of render from substrate. When a render goes onto dense concrete, or plywood, or polystyrene, this is not the case, and the render is more vulnerable if there are any cracks in the surface, as the amount of water it has to deal with is far greater. “

    “The hygroscopicity of a material may also help to relieve pressure on renders, as
    many are vapour open but capillary closed. Mineral renders are hygroscopic and this means that they will absorb moisture hygroscopically when relative humidity is high outside. This could increase the chance of moulds on the render surfaces. However if the substrate is also hygroscopic (as in the case of woodfibre boards as an external insulation system) this risk will be reduced.â€Â

    “The web site www.dimagb.de is full of case studies from Germany, Switzerland and Scandinavia illustrating the under-performance and health problems of External Wall Insulation systems utilising polystyrene. The performance of many of the buildings is usually at least 30% worse than the designed (theoretical) thermal performance. This is due to several factors including bad application (incomplete insulation, cold bridging etc). However the main cause is identified as being due to the fact that the polystyrene and render systems are relatively vapour impermeable and thus increase the amount of moisture in the original solid masonry. This is particularly critical in the ground floors of solid wall buildings without damp proof courses. This moisture is also trapped because the effect of the sun and wind in drying the outer face of the masonry is also eliminated. The consequence is that the thermal resistance of the masonry reduces, giving an overall reduction in the wall U value. Combined as EWI often is, with new windows and draught
    proofing, there is the consequence that moulds also grow on the inside of the now damp wall.â€Â

    I’m wondering if anyone has any opinions or counter experience?

    Peter
  9.  
    I haven't had time to read this through properly or really think about it, but I don't think that: "The consequence is that the thermal resistance of the masonry reduces, giving an overall reduction in the wall U value" can be right. The thermal resistance of the masonry is already low. Most of the resistance comes from the insulation material anyway.
  10.  
    Or rather, I do not see how a reduction in resistance from the masonry being damp could be very significant if the insulation is not damp.
  11.  
    The website with examples

    www.dimagb.de

    is all in German, I can't make head nor tail.

    I have no idea if wet masonry will explain a 30%, or more, reduction in thermal performance. I find the theory in the link I gave above (Breathability: The Key to Building Performance) very persuasive and interesting, but I have little practical experience to judge it by.

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorsteveleigh
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2008
     
    Breathability is a term which promotes moisture within the wall/roof fabric and reduces the thermal performance of a building envelope.


    Steve
  12.  
    Breathability is a term that promotes the understanding that, in practice, moisture will always find a way into a wall/roof fabric, from inside or outside. It suggests constructing walls in such a way that this inevitable moisture can get out again, thus improving the thermal performance of the building envelope.
    • CommentAuthorsteveleigh
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2008
     
    In a sealed building envelope the wall/roof fabric remains warm and dry similar to a moonbase specification. Moisture does not penetrate the wall/roof.

    This dramatically multiples the thermal performance of the envelope.

    Steve
    • CommentAuthorPeter Clark
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2008 edited
     
    Hi Steve,

    How long will it remain dry?

    Water, as vapour or liquid, has a habit of getting everywhere, you can never get to the point of saying confidently "this structure will never allow any water in". Much better to acknowledge the high likelihood that at some point some moisture will get in, and plan accordingly.
    The more waterproof you make your envelope, the worse it is when the inevitable happens.

    I do not want to live in a house constructed like a moonbase!

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorsteveleigh
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2008
     
    Peter

    We will have to move to sealed envelopes because this is the only way to preserve building fabric. We already do sealed thermal cladding on buildings and it is no problem to keep watertight. The principle of moonbase is living in a controlled atmosphere with superior air quality and zero moisture penetration into the envelope fabric. A good example of sealed building would be an underground house or earth covered house were the walls and roof have to be sealed against moisture. Some people like living in a sealed atmosphere it is certainly more energy efficient and that is what we are all about are we not.

    Steve
    • CommentAuthorPeter Clark
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2008 edited
     
    Posted By: steveleigh 'because this is the only way to preserve building fabric'

    Sealed envelopes may be one way to preserve building fabric, but it depends on a seeming unlikelihood - sealing up a building in such a way that it NEVER admits any water?

    Another way may be to permit the fabric to 'breathe' (misleading term) and therefore permit water to escape.

    Peter
  13.  
    So.... how does this relate to Ziegel / thermoplan or other monolithic / solid mehtods of construction...?

    Steve's external selaing of buildings is a bit of a hot topic so I think it deserves definitive thread:
    http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1104

    ...see you all there...

    ... back to the subject then....

    J
    :wink:
  14.  
    Hygroscopic ain't the word - the suction on Ziegel blocks is like nothing else I've come across, which makes them an absolute nightmare to render. Sorry if I sound like a dreadful naysayer, but rendering a place in the August heat was interesting. It took unbelievable amounts of spraying to kill the suction to the point where the render could even be trowelled properly.
  15.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: James Norton</cite>So.... how does this relate to Ziegel / thermoplan or other monolithic / solid mehtods of construction...?

    As far as I understand, one of the main points about the Ziegel blocks is that they are completely vapour open. Also the lime/earth plasters and the compressed wood insulation.
    So if you use the system as it is recommended, then internal humidity in the house will be soaked up by the walls and transported to the outside.
    Likewise, if the walls get an external soaking, the water will not be concentrated in one element by other waterproof elements, the whole wall will be wetted, but will then dry out. This is the way in which traditional buildings made from timber and lime plaster work is it not? That is why a timber frame building with lime plaster infill panels can last for centuries in the damp UK climate.
    There are also positive effects on internal air quality claimed.
    The whole thing depend upon the various elements of the wall being similar in Hygroscopicity and vapour openness ,U values etc. If you put in a synthetic element like plastic insulation, this will cause problems, as explained in the text I quoted.
    It is all explained in the link I gave above. The paper is a bit intimidating at first glance, but I found it very interesting and persuasive upon reading thoroughly.

    However this is all theory, it is interesting to read Gervase's practical experience. For example, one reason I am interested is that it is claimed these blocks are easier to build with than ordinary bricks. I had considered, as an amateur builder, having a bash myself, but the experience of actual users is not sounding encouraging.

    The document I linked to above is also interesting to me because it seems to be a fundamentally different way of building (tho traditional?), a different 'philosophy' of building from normal in the UK. It seems to address a knot of issues that is arising as a result of our response to the energy crisis and buildings - modern materials/airtightness/insulation/air quality. These are all bound together and I think we need to consider them as a whole.

    Peter
  16.  
    Peter,

    Didn't mean to ignore the vapour issue at all, that is of real interest particularly the control of internal humidity.

    To be honest I was just trying to avoid the thread being hijacked by the debate about steveleigh's roof product that he sells/promotes on the basis of vapour not being transfered if you seal the building completely (no offense intended but to be honest the same debate is running on at least three live threads!).

    Really wanted to focus on this specific material on this one. Its an interesting product for a lot of reasons, but problems with cost and installation...?

    (Document looks well referenced and detailed will review ASAP.)

    James
  17.  
    Gervase,
    Would it be reasonable to say that the problems you describe are down to this being a new way of doing things. So you are comparing an unfamiliar way with a familiar way, and inevitably finding problems. If builders and architects were familiar with this way of making walls, it may be that the claims about speed, and therefore lower cost, might be born out?

    Everyone,
    My own worry is the idea that the walls will get wet, but we need to design it in such a way that they do not get wet all the way through. How do we do that for sure? I know that NBT recommend over-hanging roofs, and I think that somewhere I saw pictures of some kind of membrane installed outside the blocks.

    Almost everyone here seems to agree that we will need to make large changes to the manner of building if we are to respond appropriately to the energy crisis and global warming. So whatever we do is going to be different, and untested at the start. So people like me, private householders wanting to build green, are going to be left with this dilemma - "how can I be sure that this will not be a disaster?"

    This method of building appears to have a successful record of use in other wet and cold climates, and appears to be based on the time honoured way of doing things

    Peter
  18.  
    I think most people would agree that the objective in a new build is to achieve something like a PassivHaus standard of insulation and airtightness so that a dedicated heating system (and the associated emissions and running costs) isn't required. My problem with the Thermoplan block (and the 300mm wide aircrete blocks as well) is that they can't achieve this level of insulation without applying further insulation either inside or out.

    Using the block on its own, with a render/plaster finish inside and out, is appealing because of its simplicity. Once you have to start applying additional insulation to get it up the required U-value, I think it would be better to use a standard concrete (or compressed earth) block and then apply a slightly thicker layer of insulation to the outside. This would be cheaper and provide exposed thermal mass on the inside.
  19.  
    Chris,
    That is interesting, of course you would not be getting the breathability.

    Do you have any figures for U value and cost for these two ways of doing it?

    Peter
  20.  
    Peter, I don't see why you need breathability in a concrete block wall. I can see the point in timber frame or a straw bale wall because trapped moisture could cause the structure to deteriorate. If the wall is made of concrete blocks with a layer of Kingspan on the outside, then there is nothing to rot. So long as you have a system for ventilating the interior then there is no problem that I can see. I think 150mm of Kingspan on a 150mm solid block wall gives a U-value of about 0.16. As for costs, I don't really know but usually standard components that you can get from the local builders merchants are cheaper than specialist "green" products.

    In my dreams, I think about importing a compressed earth block machine from the US and building the structure of out CEBs, made from the sub-soil on the site, with a skin of straw bales on the outside for insulation...
  21.  
    Chris,

    That's a lovely dream mate, (God we're sad...! :wink: )

    Has anyone come across the Ibstock earth block?

    J
    • CommentAuthorNeil
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2008
     
    Another interesting product 'Durisol' interlocking wood fibre blocks, made in Kent.
    Visited their stand at Interbuild recently & now considering them for a current project.
    0.23 U from a 365mm standard block.
    ANy contributors used or researched them? can anyone cut to the chase explaining pros / cons?
    I'm told a company in Crumlin is starting producing them as well, awaiting contact from their rep...
  22.  
    Neil,

    Not sure I get the Durisol thing, is it a sort of eco becoform, ie permanent concrete formwork...?

    J
    • CommentAuthorNeil
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2008
     
    Hi James,

    Like ICF systems yes; blocks made from recycled wood fibre [herkalith-esque] and voids factory [half] filled with rockwool insulation, remaining void concrete filled & reinforced as with other systems. I see advantages for sound, fire & thermal insulation, simple quick construction, thermal mass inside, inert, recyclable, insect, fungal & bacteria 'proof', ready to accept wet finishes for airtightness...

    I posted previously asking if anyone had experienced them, but no replies, Durisol claim the product's been around for 50 years all over the world, but I hadn't come across it until Interbuild! Never been promoted in the uk before as far as I know?

    Still yet to quiz the rep in detail, other than exchange a few e-mails to confirm it not suitable on a very severely exposed site.
  23.  
    Neil,

    Came across Durisol at Ecobulid interested for myself but a client has also expressed an interest, any look with it yet...?

    J
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press