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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorsimonf
    • CommentTimeNov 13th 2013 edited
     
    Help... my plasterers say they cannot apply lime plaster to our Porotherm blocks without the plaster cracking. This was selected a) to be our airtight layer and b) to be breathable. They say if they damp the wall down all the plaster falls off.

    Should I change the plaster, change the plasterer or daub the walls with PVA? Other suggestions I have had today include applying Roman plaster or a ultra high polymer specially developed parge coat both sides (which may not hold the plaster either).

    Suggestions gratefully accepted...
  1.  
    What does the purveyor of your clay blocks say?

    Edit: I think I can answer that. No reference to lime in the brochure. Just refers to 'plaster'. I can't see why lime would not adhere. I patch (gypsum) -plastered a 1930's clay block wall last week and it sucked incredibly. Is that the issue?
  2.  
    By the way, the wall sucked, not my plastering. Well, a bit of both....
  3.  
    is the plasterer familiar with clay blocks and lime plaster ? , what do Porotherm say re lime plaster ?
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeNov 13th 2013 edited
     
    looking in my baumit catalogue for fired clay blocks ( like yours)
    undercoat it suggests lime-cement KP37, K 36 W or pure lime renders RK 38, no substrate prep. required
    top coat similar or finer finish mixes
    these are pre-bagged to mix on site like gypsum plaster.
    Are you using traditional lime render/putty or NHL mixed on site with sand etc. or something else ?
  4.  
    Paint on a thin coat gypsum plaster first, then apply the lime plaster.
    • CommentAuthorsimonf
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2013
     
    Thanks for the replies.

    The product is Lime Green Duro (http://www.lime-green.co.uk/products/lime%20plaster/duro). The main problem is the suck. We have tried to contact Porotherm but are awaiting a call back. The plasterers are not familiar with lime on clay.

    We are pretty much going with the lime plaster supplier's advice.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2013
     
    Silly question, but what's the difference between 'fired clay block' and 'brick'? Unfired clay blocks are different, but apart from a smoother surface is there any difference when it comes to plastering Porotherm rather than normal bricks?
  5.  
    ''We are pretty much going with the lime plaster supplier's advice.''

    Which is.....?
    • CommentAuthorsimonf
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2013
     
    The supplier is Lime Green
  6.  
    But you said you were going with their advice, and I don't think you have told us what that is. (Sorry if I have missed it)
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