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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    The Energy Saving Trust advises:

    "Full draught-proofing will save you on average £55 per year. Draught-free homes are comfortable at lower temperatures – so you’ll be able to turn down your thermostat. This could save you another £65 per year."

    Might just be me, but that's not a great 'sell'. I think many might conclude 'if I spend a chunk of my time draught-proofing, I'll only get £5-£10 back per month". Even if the materials are cheap and you get your money back fairly quickly, I think the faff involved will turn many people off.

    Basically I suppose my question is, is the EST under-selling draught proofing here? Not that I want to 'spin' things, but I think they should at least make the point that many homes could save much more than this (i.e. "...will save you on average £55 per year, but up to £X for many leaky homes" or something). Anyone agree?
  1.  
    Yes, I take your point a bit, but there is a big difference between 'standard draught-proofing' and the sort of air-tightness works one might undertake to get near EnerPHit or similar standard, including parge-coats, membranes, and a lot more than a few lengths of draught-stripping.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    Gareth, unless you want to charge yourself for you time, draught-proofing is the most cost-effective method to save on heating bills, and improve occupants comfort levels.
    EST's 'averages' are to be taken with a large pinch of salt!
    £10 per month, for 20 years plus, that is a decent return from very little outlay I reckon.....

    Cheers:smile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    Cost me next to nothing to make my house almost draught free. Hard to gauge how much I have saved, but would estimate £80 to £120 in the first year (or somewhere around 1.5 to 2 MWh).

    One problem is that now I have to keep the windows open slightly. To cure this I would have to fit MVHR, and that gets expensive.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    How's your DIY MHRV?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2013
     
    Still working, really need to get back up there and fit the RPi with the temp sensors on it.
    I got all the bits, and an enclosure, but never seem to get around to doing it.

    I think it really needs to be bigger though. If I was building a place or a serious refurbishment, then I would build it into the ceiling/loft floor and use a thinner plastic.
    My biggest problem is the kitchen, hard to find a bit of free wall that is not structural as I have windows and a door across the full width.

    But more importantly my set back timers on the E7 are working very well. Think I am saving 1 to 2 kWh a day (shame it is the dirt cheap night rate I am saving on not the day rate).
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2013
     
    Draughtproofing was clearly the biggest single gain from upgrades we did to our draughty old farmhouse.
    It will never be anywhere near air tight and it's still not brilliant by modern standards but it made a huge difference to comfort and oil consumption.

    For us this involved sealing chimneys, refurbing sash windows, heavy curtains, attention to door threshholds etc etc.
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