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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorNovice1
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2014 edited
     
    The challenge
    1. Heating system for a large home - 7 beds + large open plan spaces. Very large extended family who come to stay throughout the year and plans for a lifestyle/career change to run B&B. Cannot downsize as Caribbean families get offended if you ask them to stay in hotel.
    2. Novice with 1st eco project

    Previous Bungalow
    - 2 condensing boilers from previous owners attempt to have granny annex
    - Very poor water pressures which I envision will get worse with moving
    upstairs and multiple users at the same time. I have asked the water company and little can be done to improve.

    Current Eco renovation / roof conversion
    – 380mm rigid insulation in hybrid roof. 150mm EWI over 75mm cavity wall
    – Sunspace and lots of triple glazed south facing windows with plans to have temp sensitive fans drive heated air to colder north facing rooms.
    – Air-tightness will be addressed to the best of our ability with all the advice from GBF
    - Took the opportunity to put in UFH pipe in the slab and beneath as a coild for potential interseasonal store, usining Vikings reasoning.

    Current Need/problem – The heating system now and future proofed
    Now – Condensing boiler but no ability to cope with ~6 months of high demand time throughout all seasons when family comes to stay. Heating may not be an issue as hopefully the insulation and air tightness will make meeting that demand easier via rads. Hot water demand will be a challenge are they are warm blooded types from the Caribbean.

    Medium term – Solar thermal – Can’t afford now but envision a potential for a 40m2 solar thermal array and possible 80m2 Solar PV on flat roof. Like the solar/active house ideas.

    Long term - Future woodburner with most heat to back boiler. I know, I know… but SWMBO and some caveman need for FIRE, means that I cannot rule out installing one in the future. Been trying to find out which one the AI PassiveHaus went for ( http://www.aipassivhaus.com/press.html ) Not sure which one they went for.

    Have also been long at a 400 litre multi fuel stainless steel thermal store that can connect multiple heat sources simultaneously - such as gas/oil boiler, solar thermal, solid fuel appliances with condensing boiler providing top-up heat.

    Controls
    Would love a system that could be switched on by individual room when family / guests arrive, switch off at a set time at night, switch on again in the morning

    Need recommendations on specs
    1. Which multi-input tank/thermal store is most cost effective in terms of initial capital outlay?
    2. Which woodburner? - Does anyone know which one the AI PassiveHaus went for ( http://www.aipassivhaus.com/press.html ), ?buffer tank, ?programmer etc)? I won't insatll now but need to install pipework and a system to accomodate in the furture
    3. Would I need a buffer tank?
    4. Which controller programmer
    5. Should I use two seperate systems on 2 seprate condensing boilers at present? This would give the advantage of shutting off half the house when family are not about. Or should I go for one system?
    6.When Interseasonal stores were fashionable I had envisioned linking the slab to the wood burner as I felt that this would prolong the heat output of the wood burner when space heating for large gatherings was the need and not DHW. Is that feasible? Is it a good idea?
    7. What system would you design to cope with my inability to reduce the size and origins of my extended family? :)
    If allowed specific brands and costs would be appreciated.

    Be gentle... Thanks
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    I have a 750l Akvaterm store for a smaller setup that yours (possibly oversize).

    For what you want I suggest you look at an Andrews Fastflo instant water heater. High flow rates and will take preheated water. You can even fit more than one if you have sufficient demand. However, water pressure may be an issue and you might consider a new supply pipe with a bigger bore to improve it especially if the current one is quite old.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    If you have low (or uneven) water pressure/flow and you cannot predict your demand then you have a challenge on your hands.
    How large a header tank can you put in your loft, this will buffer lack of flow and give you a consistent head (all be a low one).
    Then you could have two thermal stores with some sort of heat exchanger in each one. Design each system to cope with 4/5 people each. Run just one when there is a few of you in the house, both when full.
    If you want really speedy recharge times then a gas boiler or two, some electric immersion heating on top.
    Design in a connection for a wood burner on your main thermal store, solar on the other one (assuming most of your guests will be staying between March and October).

    But before all work out your water usage. You can't size anything without knowing what you need to heat.

    Alternatively, move to the West Indies, I liked living there, was a large refinery on our island, now they are fitting a OTEC plant.
    • CommentAuthorbeelbeebub
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    The stove was a Woodfire 12 (http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-Classic-Series-Freestanding-Stoves.html)

    I have one (going right now as it happens)

    It is pretty good for the price (about 1500), has a very good room/boiler ratio (about 3:7). Be aware that if you have an internal freestanding flue, this will also contribute a few kw to the room.

    It does need to be run flat out to avoid tarring. it's not as good at keeping the glass clear as (say) a clearview.

    The only bit that gets hot is the front door and glass (and flue). The top and sides get warm but you won't burn yourself on them (water jacket)

    I have a 500l akvaterm tank (which may be too small for me!).

    The stove will fill it from standby (top third up to temp, lower part cold) in few hours and one filling of wood.

    If you have low flow and pressure you may have to get a storage tank (water tower?) or a storage tank and a whole house pumped set up.
  1.  
    All sounds very expensive and complicated to me! If your hot water needs are much higher than your heating needs then you need to separate them.
    We had the same ideas as you for our own passiv'ish new build, big thermal store, wood stove/boiler, back up gas boiler, thermal hot water all linked in etc, at what cost? prob heading for £10k plus!
    All this kit needs maintenance over its life.
    Keep it simple if you can. We went for a Rinnai tankless instant gas water heater which will supply up to 35l min. The cold water supply to the gas heater is pre heated through a Gledhill 180l PulsaCoil direct thermal store, this in turn is heated by the 2 immersion heaters run off spare capacity from our 4kw PV through a immersun device. Hopefully this will provide at least 50% of our hot water from the PV.
    Apart from the cost of the PV, which we where having anyway and the outlay is covered by FIT payments, the rest of the kit cost less than £2k! and is virtually maintenance free, and runs its self, no time switches, logs to chop, how hot is my store, should I fire my boiler this morning, is the sun coming out later, will it get to hot, need to dump heat etc...
    If your well insulated, heating is easy, little wood burner or small boiler and under floor at 21c, we are going for an air to air heat pump in our open plan main living kitchen space which also has the open stairs to the first floor bedrooms. Mitsubishi unit, COP 5.5, cost £650!
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014 edited
     
    If the pressure and flow rate from the mains is poor then it will have to be a stored water system. I would use a pump rather than gravity to give a better choice of taps and shower fittings.

    If the pressure is good but the flow rate is poor (perhaps due to a long thin pipe from the main to the house) then there are bladder tanks available that will boost the flow rate. However I'm not sure if there are big ones available.

    If the flow rate from the mains is really poor even a stored hot water system can't cope with a large number of people - the main has to deliver in 24 hours what those people use in 24 hours. The only answer is to upgrade the main.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    If you are intending to use the property for a commercial purpose you could investigate the non-dom RHI and if eligible use a pellet boiler and instantaneous hot water system,this would cover the install cost many times over during the 20 year scheme,but you need the plant area and the pellet storage area.

    Simple is best especially in a commercial where you don't want down time, so I would definitely forget the thermal store back boiler idea and the multiple inputs, they are too complex and the condensing boiler that does the bulk of the work don't function well with them.

    There are plenty of gas options in terms of water heaters, big storage combis from Viessmann etc.

    We do a lot of boosted water supplies, upgrading the main may not be the solution, there is no guarantee that the UC won't downgrade the supply to statute minimum at any time in the future, or it may already be undersized in the road.

    We have tried the accumulator tanks that CWatters refers to,but have reverted to holding tanks, feeding variable speed pumps where you can pre-select flow rate and pressure, much more reliable and bomb proof.
    • CommentAuthormarkocosic
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    Storage tank and booster pump/accumulator set on the incoming cold main.

    How many showers/baths per day, max?
    How many bathrooms that you can use simultaneously?

    Say a shower is 9L/minute and 10 minutes. That's not more than 60L of hot water in 10 minutes. 6 of them simultaneously is 36L/minute hot flow and 360L in 10 minutes. Worst case 24 people take 10 minute showers back to back? 1440 litres in 40 minutes. Unlikely. If they spend 5 minutes faffing drying/undressing between showers that's then 1440 litres in 55 minutes. Drops the absolute peak hot water load to 26L/minute in aggregate rather than 36L/minute. You need a buffer tank but not for the full 1440 litres as you can afford to be topping it up as it is being emptied for absolute peak rate. Supply 10L/minute @60C with a small single boiler and you're down to needing to store 900 litres.

    An 800 litre unvented cylinder isn't scary size or money. Do it as a thermal store with solar backed up with a direct fired gas boiler and separate from the space heating so that you can claim the RHI. 500 litres might well be plenty if you use a larger boiler/don't forsee 24 back to back showers. You can also store at 80C or 90C for "boost" periods in order to downsize the cylinder, provided that you stick a blend valve on it. Scaling will be more of an issue mind. The cost/space difference isn't massive by that point though.

    Note: I'm assuming 60C flowrates here, not 40C as most combi boilers are rated at. It's very unlikely that you'll need that many showers back to back and you'll be surprised what a large boiler with a relatively modest buffer can accomplish as a "first hour" output.

    Work out what your load is first. How many bathrooms? What bath capacity/shower flowrate? How many uses and what recovery time inbetween?

    Can't see two separate systems ever being worthwhile. Keep the woodburner for what it is: a fashion item to satisfy decorative/caveman needs with a little bonus space heat. They're obsolete as heating appliances and will make the rest of the system more costly.

    Zoning: Honeywell evohome or EQ-3 Max! if rads.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2014
     
    Posted By: montyfellrunnerRinnai tankless instant gas water heater
    That was exactly what I was looking for but did not find! Oh well, I have what I have. When the boiler needs replacing that is what I may well replace it with.
    • CommentAuthorNovice1
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2014 edited
     
    Thanks for all the input. Sorry about delay. No internet at home.
    Ok this is my current thinking based on trying to pool together all the advice
    1. Take care of basic needs - Run all the heating and the taps off 1 combi. Insulation should make this possible -
    2. Take care of high DHW times - Tankless gas heater for showers and baths. With PV immersion heater as per monty.
    3. Take care of decorative/caveman needs - Woodfire F12 output funneled (somehow.. sugestions please) to solar slab. Large gatherings when doors open frequently would coincide with oohh-look-at-my-FIRE times.
    4. When large array of solar thermal becomes affordable and interseasonal storage is proven the fool proof technology that it is, then funnel (somehow.. sugeestions please) to beneath slab interseasonal store and UFH pipes on walls
    Criticisms please
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2014
     
    Forget inter-seasonal storage.
    If you must go the wood-burner route, then pumping as much as you can into an UFH system seems sensible to me.
  2.  
    Posted By: SteamyTeaForget inter-seasonal storage.
    If you must go the wood-burner route, then pumping as much as you can into an UFH system seems sensible to me.

    Except that you can't send water that hot direct to the slab, therefore Novice1 is looking for suggestions as to how they can do so....
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2014
     
    Ah
    Yes, then a large store.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P Bacon
    Posted By: SteamyTeaForget inter-seasonal storage.
    If you must go the wood-burner route, then pumping as much as you can into an UFH system seems sensible to me.

    Except that you can't send water that hot direct to the slab, therefore Novice1 is looking for suggestions as to how they can do so....


    Yes but cant you blend the water to a lower temp to put into the slab?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: joe90Yes but cant you blend the water to a lower temp to put into the slab?
    Yes you can. Or have a slab so large that you can only put in enough energy to get it up to a set temp.

    Not very efficient or effect though. You only have to look at the thermal inertia figures to work it out.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2014
     
    I read on another thread dealing with control systems for UFH that the simplest way was to put water 1 or 2 degrees above the required temp into the slab and it will self regulate itself, I like the Kiss principle in most things.
    • CommentAuthorNovice1
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2014 edited
     
    @joe
    blend the water to a lower temp to put into the slab ==> any ideas on how?

    @steamy
    How large is a large store? I can accomodate most things.

    @markocosic
    Thanks for the detail will try to see if I can cost that set up. Is there anyway to simplify it? Any idea on capital and maintainence costs?

    @Monty
    We are in exactly the same situation 'open plan main living kitchen space which also has the open stairs to the first floor bedrooms'
    We have looked at Vikings no duct system (http://www.viking-house.co.uk/fine-wire-hrv.html) but not sure of the price £1000 or £2000. Your Mitsubishi unit, COP 5.5, £650! seems attractive.
    What ducts do you need?
    We had a chap come around specifically to get a price on a cost effective simple ductless system... I panicked when drilling through I beams started being mentioned.
    Anyone with suggestions for air to air to heat solution for the open plan space (~444m3)?

    Thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 20th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: Novice1How large is a large store? I can accomodate most things.
    All depends what the store is made from. What you need to know is a minimum and maximum temperature, the Specific Heat Capacity of that material, the input power and frequency and the desired output energy, temperature and frequency.
    Then you have to work out any 'non productive' losses, the most likely energy and temperatures (transfer efficiency is a function of temperature). There is not a 'one size fits all', there is not even a 'one size fits most' answer to this.

    If you have lots of space, insulate and airtight as much as you can, reducing any demand as much as possible, then install MVHR predominately for winter usage.
    Then look at the cheapest (either in cash terms or environmental terms) method of delivering the power needed. You will almost certainly end up with a PV system. If you work on £1/W you won't be far out. Look at any government incentive schemes as a bonus and not as the most cost effective manner to install.

    You really do need to start putting some real numbers on things, without them you are (and I am) just speculating like a double glazing salesman. Energy production, usage and wastage is not a linear problem.
  3.  
    Posted By: Novice1We are in exactly the same situation 'air to air heat pump in our open plan main living kitchen space which also has the open stairs to the first floor bedrooms' We have looked at Vikings no duct system but not sure of the price £1000 or £2000. Your Mitsubishi unit, COP 5.5, cost £650! seems attractive.
    What ducts do you need?
    We had a chap come around specifically to get a price on a cost effective simple ductless system... I panicked when drilling through I beams started being mentioned.
    Anyone with suggestions for air to air to heat the open plan space (~444m3)?


    You appear to be confusing ventilation and heating Novice1, the air to air heatpump is for heating and not ventilation.

    You really need to do heat loss calculations to decide what capacity of unit you require for your open plan area. It is then good to oversize it so that the fan speed on the internal unit can be kept to a minimum so that you keep the noise level to a minimum.
    • CommentAuthorSteveZ
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2014
     
    Monday 20th October 2014 only

    I've just noticed that Screwfix have a one day offer of a 9.5kW instant water heater for £85, which seems pretty reasonable if you after such a thing.
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