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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    Ok ... first off, a confession ... in winter, I burn a small amount of wood in an open fire from time to time. I apologize! I know this forum can get quite antsy on this subject. But I have loads of the stuff lying about the place, and I love the atmosphere ... especially the particulates etc.!

    So we have a pumice flue liner all in place. The old 30's art deco house had no cowl at all ... just the flue open to the elements, with a rendered (& weathered) concrete surround. Seemed to work ok, but I want a cowl (to protect from the rain now the flue is completely vertical & from birds etc.) and I want to maintain the boxy, rendered look of the original chimney. Eg. I don't want a terracotta pot and traditional cowl etc.

    So can anyone pick holes in the attached design I've come up with? In the picture I've half hidden the concrete capstone on top so as to show some of the internal detail ...

    MUCH APPRECIATE any words of wisdom ....
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    I think the SS mesh is likely to clog with soot so some way to clean it needs cosideration. A locally renovated farmhouse has a similar design but with much larger openings on all four sides and no mesh. It looks good but they have only just done it so not sure on long term issues.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    On my travels through europe going ski-ing (mostly mountains so lots of rural houses that burn wood) nearly all the chimneys I have seen are similar to the one above but just a pillar in each corner so nothing to clog but flue covered to stop rain/snow and lots of air to breath. Its also what I would like for my new build (planners allowing).
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    Great! Am encouraged. And yes .. openings probably look better, and no doubt work better!, higher up (and thinner/longer) .. so have tweaked it a bit.

    How do you find data on how heavy/big something has to be before you need to mortar it in place!? Ideally like to leave the stone on top 'unfixed' (for cleaning etc.) ... can't believe any wind would shift it, but how does one calculate that?
  1.  
    Don't bother trying to calculate how much wind will be needed to lift the stone - just provide some mechanical attachment e.g. stainless steel bolts epoxied into the chimney and through the cap stone which can then be held by nuts.
    I agree that the SS mesh is likely to clog, but I would also make the internal surfaces steeply sloping to stop birds nesting in the nice flat protected surface. The slope, if steep enough, will also be a bit self cleaning - especially when agitated with a chimney brush from below
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    Also if the surface of the opening is steep any rain driven in will run back out.
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2014
     
    Good point about the slope from the flue top down to the apertures ... will make an adjustment for that. Might mean four weep holes or similar, just so I can keep thin apertures for the actual smoke vents.

    But re: the SS mesh - was thinking 25mm x 25mm apertures minimum - can't see that this is going to clog massively quickly, but then I've no experience yet of this. It's a flat roof though, and we'll be up there lots, so absolutely no sweat to check it now and again.
    • CommentAuthordaserra
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2014
     
    Where I am you have an overhang/ledge under the openings to make sure rain drips laden with soot don't run down the rendered part. Also your concrete capping could overhang with a groove cut into it underneath to stop driving rain tracking underneath. Maybe a SS basket above the flue pipe to maximise grill surface area. Otherwise your design looks like it would work fine to me.
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2014
     
    The reason I think the mesh could cause a problem is just the fact it will be a cold surface in the path of the exiting gases. Condensing of the creosote is quite likely IMO but it sounds like access is easy so cleaning would be no big deal.
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2014
     
    Good point about soot laden rain spoiling the render ... shall work on that! Thanks guys ... am pushing the 'go' button!
  2.  
    Posted By: scrimperGood point about soot laden rain spoiling the render ... shall work on that! Thanks guys ... am pushing the 'go' button!

    Put the apertures at the top and the slopes facing inwards so that anything blowing under the overhanging cap stone goes down the chimney, which is where any precipitate from combustion within the chimney will be going any way.
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2014
     
    Like this Peter? (have hidden the cap stone in this diagram) But ... if I do this ... surely the weepholes are going to stain the render, albeit a bit lower down the stack?

    Or would you maybe do away with weepholes and have that internal flue surrounding sloping into flue ...
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2014
     
    Won't the weep holes eventually clog up? When you clean the flue the action of pushing the brush upward will take with it some debris (soot and muck) this will overspill into the chamber. What about soot build up on the underside of the capstone?
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 19th 2014
     
    Yes ... owlman you're right. Plus I'm sure it'll only lead to sooty black lines on all four sides.

    So final design below. Losing the grills too - but if anything flies in and nests there it is very easy to clear and then retrofit some grills if necessary. And everything now slopes down to the flue. Capstone removable so that can be cleaned too if needs be.

    Thanks all!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeApr 20th 2014
     
    How about, as a capping inserting/resin anchoring 4 x stainless 12mm pieces of studding on the support pillars, with pieces of spacer tube over and then have fabricated a stainless cap with small downstand all round. Drilled secured from above with stainless dome nuts with spring washers and a spot of locktite.
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeApr 20th 2014
     
    Sorry owlman ... don't follow you ... what's wrong with a concrete weathered capstone? Got concrete coping stones all around the flat roof perimeter ... prefer to tie in with those. Sure it will be slightly heavier to remove if necessary for cleaning, but that'll only be the odd occassion.
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