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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorYanntoe
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    Hi,
    We will soon apply for planning for our project in the north.
    There will be a large conservatory (8x4metre footprint) with the wide aspect facing west.
    The conservatory is intended to extend our living space for a significant part of the year, not only as shelter from the elements, but from the midge population too! It should also contribute to the insulation (and waterproofness) of the lower 2/3rds of the West facing main wall of the house, and as such will have highly insulated glazing as is possible/we can afford.

    We will probably add a woodburning stove to the space but are concerned about running under floor heating out there.
    We'd like to go down the high thermal mass route (over insulation) for the floor.
    We'd be very interested to hear of members experiences with Conservatories and particularly what represents a really good design for a thermal mass floor (it's on soil so could go down quite deep)?
    and the wisdom of underfloor heating.

    Even now, (admittedly before we have improved the insulation etc) the house is cold except for the upstairs g the day, and for the first time in my life the central heating comes on in the mornings and the fires are lit in the evenings - and it's June! hopefully the Conservatory should help this.

    Cheers

    y
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    I've just built a conservatory and I've opted for fairly large glazed panels into a solid slated roof. For me this had advantages over an all glass construction and an overall better U value. I'm installing a small wood stove for winter/evening use, but I haven't extended the house CH, although I did insulate the concrete floor. I'm also toying with a single unit air/air HP.
    • CommentAuthorYanntoe
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    Yes - we considered a more solid roof - but unless we use lead we can't get the pitch right - it's too low for slate.
    The single unit air/air HP offers promise though - hadn't thought of that. It would mean we could try without CH and add it later if the place was too cold/too hot.

    Cheers
    Y
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    What, lower than 15 degrees.
    • CommentAuthorYanntoe
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    Actually 15 degrees is what we're looking at - i thought slate was really limited to around 30 degrees ...... but I'd prefer to use it rather than lead so i'll check out the specs.

    Cheers

    Y
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    Try these, they're interlocking, 60% recycled Welsh slate. If used with a 75mm headlap you can lay them to 15 degrees. Each slate has 3 fixing points two nail/screws at the top and a batten fixing clip at one bottom corner.


    http://www.monier.co.uk/products/product-catalogue/product-range/product/cambrian-slate.html
    • CommentAuthorYanntoe
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2014
     
    Interesting - I wonder whether the Lake District Planning Authority will allow them - I'll add them to my list of possibilities.
    Thanks for the link
    Cheers
    Y
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2014
     
    Do your heat loss calculations. UFH can only deliver so much power per square meter. There is a limit as to how high you can crank up the flow temperature.

    Perhaps don't make it all glass? Most people end up putting chairs against at least one wall so why not make that wall an insulated brick stub wall?
    • CommentAuthorRob_14
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2014 edited
     
    Are you going to have the facility of closing the conservatory off from the adjoining room to conserve energy in the heating season?

    Generally it's better to avoid a glass/clear conservatory roof because of summer overheating. An AAHP would be a good solution provided you have walls in the right places to attach both the indoor and outdoor units.

    It's important to be really clear about what you want from your conservatory and how you are going to use. If you read up online about solar porches, you'll see that single glazing (even simple poly sheeting structures) are very effective in harvesting solar gain – albeit at the expense of comfort!

    If solar gain is important, a black stone floor and painting the outside wall of the house inside the conservatory a dark colour would help most.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJun 6th 2014
     
    On the one I've just built I've kept the "N" wall solid, timber frame highly insulated, as is the floor. The roof is only about 50% glazed. I've gone for a light interior, floor and walls, to reflect light into the house. For me that was more important than solar gain. I've put in a wood stove for the in between seasons. The whole is insulated from the house with exterior grade slide and fold doors.
  1.  
    I think a 'purist' green builder wouldn't be heating a glass conservatory.
    Owlman solution seems a good compromise .
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeJun 6th 2014
     
    ... try looking at the recycled 'plastic mudflap' slates. Down to 15degrees, cheaper than slate, but from the ground you cannot tell. EcoDecking is one brand IIRC.

    But do not try to heat a conservatory in the winter, unless you have deep pockets.
    B.C. might not be too keen either...!

    Good luck:smile:
    • CommentAuthorYanntoe
    • CommentTimeJun 7th 2014
     
    Thanks everyone.
    So, I think i'll aim for a high thermal mass floor with above building regs insulation beneath, no UFH and a slate floor above.
    Wood burner and partially non-glass roof.
    We were always going to have double glazed doors into this space from the main house so looks like we might have a plan.
    i'll let you know.
    cheers
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeJun 8th 2014
     
    Actually 15 degrees is what we're looking at - i thought slate was really limited to around 30 degrees ...... but I'd prefer to use it rather than lead so i'll check out the specs.

    Had you thought of
    http://www.metrotile.co.uk/

    I believe they work down to 15 degrees satisfactorily .

    and look surprisingly good worth a look IMO.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 8th 2014
     
    Posted By: CWattersPerhaps don't make it all glass? Most people end up putting chairs against at least one wall so why not make that wall an insulated brick stub wall?

    If the main wall is west facing, that means one end is north facing. I strongly recommend making that solid and thermally massive on the inside.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 8th 2014
     
    Posted By: Rob_14If solar gain is important, a black stone floor and painting the outside wall of the house inside the conservatory a dark colour would help most.

    I don't think it matters that much. It's the absorptance that matters and that's not terribly dependent on the colour. Anything that isn't obviously reflective or very light works pretty much the same. Of course for solar panels efficiency is everything so the situation is different.
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