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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2014 edited
    Can anyone recommend a way to finish off this eaves detail to maintain airtightness.
    200 full fill cavity with Isover CWS.
    Panelvent or Gutex 18mm sarking on top of trusses with membrane on sarking/ counter batten/ batten/ slates.
    Truss depth filled with rafter roll meeting up with wall insulation. OSB/ VCL/ 50mm Eps or similar under truss, battened service void and plasterboard. 18mm ply soffit on top of truss to leave exposed truss ends, no box ends at gables.

    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2014
    I would use a polythene vapour barrier under the trusses all joined up and plastered into the walls.

    Don't use dot and dab
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2014 edited
    Thanks Tony.

    Yes.. I intend to do as you suggested. I was thinking more about the outer blockwork round the truss ends and under the soffit etc and any need to seal/ close the cavity?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 24th 2014
    Stuff fiberglass quilt into the top of the cavity or use a double layer of batts. I think I would cut the bottom off the trusses where exposed to 10 or 15mm smaller than the fascia then flat for only 40mm if no soffit
    Nice roof build-up! :-)

    I think you're talking about windtightness, not airtightness.

    How about fitting full depth noggins between the rafter ends at the outer leaf position? These could be sealed to the outer leaf with expanding foam & to the underside of the 18mm ply soffit with bubble glue. As Tony says, fully fill all voids with insulation to avoid thermal bypass.

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