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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    The most hygienic, convenient and indestructible kind of sink is a one-piece stainless steel worktop with integral sink(s). I cannot describe the feeling of serene relief when we lived with one of these for 6 months in a rented house.

    It's perfect for those who are upset by draining boards, since there is no draining board as such. But there are places where you can put a draining rack for all the things which come out of the dishwasher still wet :bigsmile:.

    You can stow the draining rack in a cupboard when there are guests, film crews or estate-agent photographers in the kitchen.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    the other good integrated sink/drainers are solid surface materials; Corian and the like where worktop, sink, and wall upstand are all seamless. Expensive though, probably on a par with a bespoke stainless fabrication.

    In a similar vein, I'd thought of having a worktop width stainless fabrication made, integrated upstand, the lot, with provision for standard hob inserts, induction and the like. It may be cheaper than the ready made hob units
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    Blimey you lot are fussy about your sinks and draining boards :shocked:

    Quite happy for guests to see my plates drying. I thought a house was for the function for living not fashion.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    Posted By: BeauI thought a house was for the function for living not fashion.
    Me to, but then I am odd :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    Pristine easy wipe clean surfaces are "function" for some. Vive la différence is what I say, it's kept me in work for many years.:wink:
    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2014
     
    Anyone else dislike heated towel rails? They always seem to be too small, so towels are folded or scrunched on them, inhibiting drying, and they always seem to be on at the wrong time, either when there aren't any towels on them, or just before showers are used rather than after, so the towels stay damp for ages. I hang my towel length wise on an unheated rail with just one fold. It dries fine.

    Now I've written all that, come to think of it, I reckon I'm just weird about towel rails!
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    Dim light in the bathroom - inadequate central ceiling based lighting rather than adjustable task based lighting.

    From other threads I have to conclude I am weird about bathroom light! Focused on air tightness and minimum penetratipns etc. I have only a central light and it is simply too dim.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    I would like to speculate that we are all weird on this forum!!! most of the populus dont give a toss about all this stuff (that will help save the planet) unless they get some brownie points for bolting on some green bling to their underinsulated, over heated, badly built box :devil:
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: GreenfishDim light in the bathroom - inadequate central ceiling based lighting rather than adjustable task based lighting.

    From other threads I have to conclude I am weird about bathroom light! Focused on air tightness and minimum penetratipns etc. I have only a central light and it is simply too dim.


    Mirror lights for task, LED shelf edge lights etc. for ambient lighting? but you do need to position cable runs beforehand.
  1.  
    Posted By: owlmanbut you do need to position cable runs beforehand.
    and don't forget to add a supply to your drawers/cupboard (mine is under sink drawers) to plug in your electric toothbrush(s)
  2.  
    Posted By: GarethCAnyone else dislike heated towel rails? ......

    Now I've written all that, come to think of it, I reckon I'm just weird about towel rails!


    No, we've been having the same discussion recently and same conclusions. I'm looking for some long towel bars to let the towels dry naturally.



    Posted By: rhamduThe most hygienic, convenient and indestructible kind of sink is a one-piece stainless steel worktop with integral sink(s). I cannot describe the feeling of serene relief when we lived with one of these for 6 months in a rented house.

    It's perfect for those who are upset by draining boards, since there is no draining board as such. But there are places where you can put a draining rack for all the things which come out of the dishwasher still wethttp:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" >.


    We had one for 10 years but our one regret was not having a draining board/edge built into it - we ended up using an older version of this http://www.simplehuman.com/steel-frame-dishrack-with-wine-glass-holder-fingerprint-proof-stainless-steel-grey which itself was a right faff to clean and ended up out all the time (a large and awkward thing to store).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    A radiator always works better than a towel rad even without one of those towel hangers on it.

    With ventilation systems neither are needed, towels no matter how wet dry
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014 edited
     
    I can't believe how few mentions there are of recessed downlighters here!! My pet hate!
  3.  
    Windows in living rooms that are too small and too high up. You sit down on a chair and can't comfortably see out. Then again, I sit on the floor...
    • CommentAuthoratomicbisf
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: WeeBeastieWindows in living rooms that are too small and too high up. You sit down on a chair and can't comfortably see out. Then again, I sit on the floor...


    I've noticed this too on houses built relatively recently. Maybe it's a lazy way of getting them to pass energy saving regulations?

    Here's an example from nearby:
    https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.3989738,-2.3905634,3a,75y,340.75h,92.84t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1s_LXCLP19lP95g4WizHqCzw!2e0" >Holcombe Green, Bath

    Note how small and mean looking the windows on the south facing side of the new house on the right are compared with the 1940s BISF house on the left. Also how conservative, safe and bland the design is compared with something getting on for 70 years old. At least they made good use of the roof for solar PV!

    Ed
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: Simon StillI'm looking for some long towel bars to let the towels dry naturally.

    They don't seem difficult to find. My apparently illogical search for 'chrome stainless tube' found several good links. ironmongery direct have 2.5 m lengths, for example. 'shopfitting' seems like it might be a good search key
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: WeeBeastieWindows in living rooms that are too small and too high up. You sit down on a chair and can't comfortably see out.

    Building regs - any glass that is at least partly lower than 800 mm off the floor has to be toughened or laminated. Extra dollars. Unless they're trying to meet Lifetime Homes, where lower windows in the living room are a requirement.

    You'll be able to see out of our living room if you're sitting on the floor. The windows are one bale off the floor (about 350 mm). There's a tradition of making window seats in straw bale houses :bigsmile:
  4.  
    Why don't washing machines and dishwashers accept hot water these days? Surely it would be more beneficial to run them off my ASHP as opposed to the element?
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2014 edited
     
    Firstly biological washer powers have some enzymes that break down if the water is too hot, therefore they work better if the water is slowly heated so these enzymes have time to work.

    Then washing machines these days use little water, given how much water has to be run out of most “hot” taps before you get any hot water, would the benefit be that great?

    The washing machine cannot just add hot water without putting in some cold first, as it does not know how “hot” the hot water will be, just think of 90c water hitting your cloths!

    You can always feed 30c water from the “pre heat” coil in a heatstore (var a mixer value) into the “cold” inlet of the washing machine.
    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2014
     
    Posted By: tonyA radiator always works better than a towel rad even without one of those towel hangers on it.


    ...and of course towel rads only emit a fraction of their rated wattage if you should be so careless as to hang any towels on them:smile:
    • CommentAuthorBruno
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Posted by Andrew Doran back in September ....

    "Walls made of aerated or hollow blocks".

    I am planning a new build with single skin blockwork and external insulation, so am interested in your (or anyone else's please) reason/s for listing aerated blocks, and what you would suggest as an alternative if it has to be (a) masonry with (b) rendered external facades.

    As an aside, has anyone on here tried (or know of someone who has) calcium silicate blocks?

    Thank you.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Aerated blocks crack too easily, shift around especially near doors, too brittle,

    I only use medium density (breeze blocks/recycled aggregate) or heavy, no cracks, no call backs, no air leakage, less sound transmission, I add extra insulation (300mm),
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Posted By: Simon StillI'm looking for some long towel bars to let the towels dry naturally.
    I used an inexpensive 2m curtain pole over a long low old school radiator in our last house. It worked really well.
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: BrunoPosted by Andrew Doran back in September ....

    "Walls made of aerated or hollow blocks".

    I am planning a new build with single skin blockwork and external insulation, so am interested in your (or anyone else's please) reason/s for listing aerated blocks, and what you would suggest as an alternative if it has to be (a) masonry with (b) rendered external facades.

    As an aside, has anyone on here tried (or know of someone who has) calcium silicate blocks?

    Thank you.


    Fixed back skirting board to a friends undulating aerated block wall. Tried to use screws to pull the boards in but could not make any kind of screw plug type hold on the aerated block.
  5.  
    Aerated blocks also have little thermal mass, unlike a standard block. Good for the bricklayer (easy to carry and cut) and the specifier (U values) but not much fun for anyone who comes along after.
  6.  
    Posted By: Andrew_DoranAerated blocks also have little thermal mass, unlike a standard block. Good for the bricklayer (easy to carry and cut) and the specifier (U values) but not much fun for anyone who comes along after.


    I don't mind having little thermal mass - when I get home at the end of the day in winter the house only takes a few minutes to warm up when i put the heating on!
  7.  
    Here in the very south of Sweden the tradition is to build in stone rather than timber frame and these days a lot of houses are built with panels of autoclaved aerated concrete up to 2.5m high and 365mm thick. I think some manufacturers go even thicker than that to meet passive spec. Solid walls with no cavity.

    In Australia and Malaysia I have seen non autoclaved aerated concrete which is produced on site by adding a chemical foam to the concrete prior to pour. Used for a wide variety of things including houses either cast in-situ or in tilt up panels. Never seen it in Europe, not sure if there is a technical reason for that or just commercial?
  8.  
    Gravel Drives: Do it properly. use something like "stabledrive" or "nidagravel". Its a plastic honeycomb that you lay down on a firm base; textile membrane over. Then fill with graavel

    Works incredibly well. You can cycle on it, ride your motobike over it. Drains really well. Doens't shift.
  9.  
    One of the big (if not the only) advantage of gravel is that it is cheap!!!! - at circa £18m2 for stabledrive it is cheaper to buy Jewsons economy block paving incl the sand you need. If you are DIYing it would be a no-brainer!!!

    I was a little one-sided earlier about gravel: it is rubbish in many situations but it does a great job on my land in one situation and I should in all fairness post some pics to illustrate.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2014
     
    Atomic, and cools down to too cold during the night ans you minimise possibilities to store free solar gain
   
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