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  1.  
    Lime (hydrated) is used as a cement replacement, and results in the mix being more user friendly, softer and more vapour open.

    It is also recommended by British Standard
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2014
     
    Dan, where are you?

    I may be able to help. Taking tiles off is the best way to access the problems.

    What is the floor?
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Cheers Tony. I'm in East Leicestershire, near Melton Mowbray. Solid ground floor (00's extensions). Bit worried about damaging the sarking (I was on the roof yesterday fixing ripped and holey sarking in another part of the house) but if that's the only way...

    No coving internally and I don't want to add it.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014 edited
     
    Bit far away but it is possible and worth it for you to do it.

    Sarking is relatively unimportant, should be no water on it, it helps keep out snow, it is easy to repair, even cut and slide new under.

    http://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMAG0290.jpg
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Thanks. In that photo, it looks like two leaves of masonry. The plasterboard would be on the internal face of the internal leaf. How would you get to that given the whacking great piece of... something (I initially thought it was timber but is it XPS?)... on top?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Looking down over the top of it, clear view down the back of the plasterboard :smile:
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Sorry - what orientation is that photo? Did you fill in the beads there, shouldn't they be between the timber and the board?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Right hand side is the ceiling, edge of wall board, monster gap and just visible blob near the top, then upper face of the skylon wall plate (see previous pic) then polystyrene beads CWI is visible and the top of bricks of the outside skin.

    All looking down from above, you will see something similar on yours when you get there
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Thanks! That explains it.
  2.  
    Just to clarify, would you put the parge coat on to seal the block work, then sand & cement followed by a top skim of plaster??
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2014
     
    No need to parge with any wet plastering, so s&c and skim is OK join this to air barrier in floor, windows and ceiling
  3.  
    When you say air barrier, do you mean an special tape??
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2014
     
    No, I trap a membrane and plaster it in with eml holding it in place, don't like tepees as they will come unstuck before the end of the life of the building. On my windows I double sealed to them.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 14th 2014
     
    An idea that came to me yesterday...

    For plasterboard walls which are on internal walls, would it be possible and/or desirable to fill any cavity with an alternative material (not an insulant) to provide thermal mass?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 14th 2014
     
    What would you be thinking of? Need to be careful that it does not push the linings off either during the install or later
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 15th 2014
     
    I have no idea what material I would use... just a thought, probably very little benefit anyway given the size of the gap.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 29th 2017
     
    Here we go —. https://youtu.be/5QVVnHI8xYk

    How not to do it, very surprised to see this in C21
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 29th 2017
     
    I notice the electrical sockets don't meet building regs either.
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