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General: Hall floor draft proofed apart from external doorway. How to do that?
This is probably one for Tony more than anyone but please feel free to chip in. :o)
Basically I'm onto the last part of draft proofing my ground floor (Polypipe Overlay UFH on suspended timber, insulated beneath with DPM warm side of insulation) and I've got to the front doorway. Should I just tape the membrane to the bottom edge of the doorway. I'm hesitant to do it without asking as when it came to doing our french doors there was a lot of condesation on the tape and membrane that was taped to the door frame which sits on the external wall. (Hope that makes sense!). In the end I bottled it (no internet connection at the time) and just overlapped the membrane over the top of the new floor and basically left a small air gap between the edge of the floor and the external wall/doorway. There's quite a draft there now and I intend to revisit it once I know the best way to do this on the front door. ;o)
My main concern is that condesation will build up behind the piece of wood that will cover up the brickwork and bottom of the doorwayt once it's been sealed and the water soak into the T&G boarding below the overlay UFH. I did wonder about sealing the edges with mastick or caulk but thought i'd ask before I did anything.
Is the front door a wooden frame? How old is the house?
Often no one insulates under the floor across the cavity and so both cold and gales enter the house near doors.
You have done well so far.
At the french doors I would now try to push the polythene down a way next the doors, more one side than the other and drill a drain hole down at 45^o at that side and then plug it with glass wool and finally seal the membrane to the door sill. Would have been ideal to tuck it in over the wall dpc.
Mostly beyond my understanding! Our house has solid ironstone walls with a front door but no lobby. Currently screed on top of concrete slab, planned to be replaced by water UFH. Two problems: 1. It is slightly warped. Foam draught-proof has helped, but not perfect. Do I get a carpenter to shave the door? Get a new one (which will doubtless warp in time)? ?? 2. re this thread. What do I do at the doorway? Bring the insulation up above the floor / level with the floor at the door frame? Seal it to the frame somehow?
Hi Tony, the house is 14 years old and the front door and frame are hardwood. We relaid a new hall floor after insulating it and like you say there was no insulation between the cavity originally so I left that as was. We insulated right up to the last joist before the cavity itself so like you say there's quite a draft there.
Not sure I understand what you mean regds the french doors but i'll read it again tonight as I've got to nip out now. The french doors and frame are also hardwood.
Already got a door stop cut to shape and size so I guess I can just cram in some insulation and Bob's my uncle. :o)
One thing I forgot to ask is that due to the number of doorways (six!) and the staircase in the hall it was impossible to fully seal every nuck and cranny without having to cut the membrane in certain places so the flooring would fit. I'm guessng I can just fill these places with a bit of insulation behind the skirting/architrave etc to cut out these small drafts?
As for the french doors I think I get your drift now. The membrane was cut ages ago however just so it reached the bottom of the frame for taping up. I don't think there's enough membrane flapping about to do what you suggest. Any reason why I can't just do the same as i'm going to do with the front door instead?
Thanks ever so much for all the help and advice Tony. I think you've replied to practically every post I've had on these forums (including the old one!!!!)
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