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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

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    • CommentAuthordickyv
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2014
    Going up in a few weeks a timber frame "air tight" house.
    having gone down this route (air tight MVHR) how do i ensure any holes made in external walls are sealed correctly? Bit of a novice and really hope spray foam is NOT the answer :)
    tape and mastic are you main friends as foam is not bad at sealing holes but can be improved with tape and mastics. you also want to keep an eye out for when its being built and repair small holes that many people forget to do for you
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2014
    Neatly built in ducts, conduits and pipes, build in soil and waste pipes as you go, it is difficult to seal and repair services damage after the event, cooker hood duct too etc
    Dont make it up as you go along, have it all planned out before you start building.
    • CommentAuthordickyv
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2014
    Thanks, appreciated
    • CommentAuthorArchmoco
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2014
    There should be minimum holes in your exterior wall, I take it you have a service void between your plaster finish and studs, so you are not going through you airtight barrier
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2014
    Soudal 'FlexiFoam' - Ironmongery Direct,
    or AcoustiFoam , brilliant, slow expansion, stays flexible, air-tight skin, but v expensive.. so be judicious with it!:smile:
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