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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014 edited
    Time to replace the Silicon bead between the shower tray and the " multiPanel" walls of my shower.

    The unknown product used was not up to it and is breaking down .

    In particular does anyone have experience with "Sealux-N" which should probably have been used in the first place .

    Any advise , thoughts.recommendations or tips on the best method and/ or alternative products to use in this

    essential task. Will be much appreciated .


    Sorry to Bump but job is becoming urgent .
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
    has the tray got an upstand?
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2014
    Hi Tony
    No ,I am afraid it has not got one.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014 edited
    I used to manufacture and fit steamrooms (and spa baths, saunas).
    We tried dozens of different silicone sealants. They all broke down within months.
    Admittedly they were working at higher temperature (about 55°C in a steamroom) and were it a commercial environment.
    It just became a maintenance job to replace it.

    What we did notice is that the smoother the surfaces to be joined, the longer it lasted. Sticking to glass was the best, some tiles, especially non-slip floor tiles were awful. Never worked on timber for more than a few days.

    In the end we had a gasket made to our own profile that seemed to work.

    So I would not worry about the make, just use one that goes on easy.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014 edited
    Thanks ST

    So just keep an eye on it and be prepared to replace every 2 or 3 years then ?
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014
    I have to redo the silicone around my bath, a job I hate.
    Dow Corning 795 sealant seems to be the best and most recommend on plumbers etc forums Screwfix sell it.
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014
    What's special about Sealux-N? It just says it is a sanitary silicone.

    My understanding that the main issue is correct application. i.e. surfaces extremely clean and you must use a backer rod or something to ensure it is free to move at the back as well as the front. So the silicone is a thinnish membrane between two edges, not a filler in a triangular space.

    I don't know if an MS polymer or marine sealant might last longer, but I suspect a physical barrier is probably the best answer.
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2014
    The problem as djh points out is the sealant normally has to be mechanical bond as well as providing compliant seal. If it's a plastic bath and a new build, things will move about quite a lot, and there is no way that most sealants can provide both sufficient percentage compliance and adhesion at the same time.

    I used "Trimlux" about ten years ago on a plastic bath/shower and it's been 100% reliable and still going fine. http://www.trimlux.com/ I'd use it again.
    • CommentAuthorscrimper
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2014
    The Trimlux looks good ... makes sense ... going to be hard for us to retrofit it, but it may well come to that as within months of fitting we are having problems with regular sealant breaking down
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2014
    I also have used trimlux or similar and 20 years on still as good as new.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2014 edited
    What Justin said. Make sure there is no movement. If the shower tray joint moves when the tray is walked on then no sealer will last long. It doesn't have to move much to represent quite a high percentage. If you can't eliminate all movement then perhaps try a low modulus sealer. These stretch more then regular sealer.

    To stop mould I use Tesco value bleach diluted 50/50 with water. Very cheap at around 7p a litre after diluting. Just spray it around the sealant last thing at night once or twice a week. Use some before applying the sealer but make sure surfaces are dry.
    • CommentAuthorPaulJ
    • CommentTimeDec 3rd 2014
    I use CT1 for any problem areas. I have even used it to seal a plastic manhole with groundwater ingress. Not silicone, so will not shrink. Stays flexible. Sticks to most things, even in the wet.
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