.

In my opinion the seal in the hinge side should not be done like the above section diagram but should be rebated into the frame at near but not touching the hinges.

also the gap of 5.1mm seems to big to my mind 3mm my preference as there is already another 2.9mm available to squish into.


I never understand why we only use a single level of draught sealing, my windows have four levels of separate draught seals!

Posted By: GotanewlifeAny thoughts on the threshold, as it would only be as good a the weakest part ...

Definitely agree with this; threshold is the weakest part on all of our external doors.

IMHO you need a continual seal lining up on the the three sides and threshold.

The other thing to consider is accessibility... Do you need to wheel stuff over it?

Posted By: gravelldDo you need to wheel stuff over it?

not really, but would like to keep the threshold <20mm at its highest point

Posted By: SteveZAnother way is to carefully wax or vaseline the closing surface on the door and apply a bead of silicone sealant to the receiving surfaces on the frame, close the door and leave it to go off. Custom fit seal!

Hey that's a good idea and might help me to seal some stupendously difficult windows/doors I have in my retrofit. One improvement though (as I have used this method to make seals before) is after waxing/vaseline put cling film on the waxed surface - this makes certain there are no accidents. Works with expanding foam too!

Posted By: Greenfishhacking a normal fire door to be 170mm thick with insulation

When you do that, how do you cope with the considerable angularity of the leading edge, about the hinge point? In other words the edge has to be heavily chamfered/splayed to clear the jamb, as the door opens, leaving an uninsulated gap when closed. Unless both leading edge and jamb are radiused - bit sophisticated?

Posted By: tonyI never understand why we only use a single level of draught sealing, my windows have four levels of separate draught seals!

Hi All,

Further to Tony's comment about multiple levels of seals, is there any reason not to use both compression and wiping seals as per figures A and B shown in the attached?

But if only one type was to be used, which would be better in your opinion(s) - compression or wiping?

Many thanks,

Oz

Compression is better, as Tom says, because wiping-type are subject to more wear and fail earlier.

Single seals are used on windows for (a) simplicity (when DIYing) and (b) low cost (when a downscale manufacturer) and on door thresholds sometimes for practicality.

BTW, door threshold heights should be up to 15 mm rather than the 20 mm mentioned earlier in the thread, in order to meet Part-M. Also it is possible to get automatic (a.k.a. lifting) door threshold seals to allow easier opening and to allow them to be compression type.

Hi Mike 1,
I've always been a fan of double rebated doors but they can present problems, I don't know if you are aware.

1. Presenting such drawings to a workshop may involve compromise, ( or extra expense ) as they may not have the correct tooling.
2. The flat part of the door edges will have to be wide enough to accommodate the both hinge leaf and the lock.
3. If you intend putting in multipoint locking, you may have suitable hardware problems.
4. Whatever locking system you use, the lock back-set will have to be increased to enable the handles to be fitted.
5. As a result of the above you may have to be satisfied with the handles not being centralised in the stiles.
6. Make sure the doors are plenty thick enough to accept the lock mortice, and the double rebate. Otherwise the
off centre lock placing may result in you cutting the mortice too close to outside edge.
7. If they are outward opening you'll need hinge side security bolts, or hinges that have them incorporated.
8. Because of the likelihood of thicker doors and hence frame, can the wall take them?
9. Personally I'd use laminated timber for such doors.
10. If you do go ahead with it don't let the joinery workshop spoil the job with inferior seals, it deserves better.
10. Be prepared for the increased cost, it does all involve extra work and material cost.


Apologies for all that if have already thought it all through.
Incidentally why have you opted for loose glazing beads on both faces?

Mike

Posted By: owlmanHi Mike 1,
I've always been a fan of double rebated doors but they can present problems...

That's a good checklist!

The door is 60mm thick, but 44 mm to the rebate, so standard depth for ironmongery. While it's at the edge of the thermal & acoustic envelope, there's a secure entrance lobby before it, so security isn't a concern - though I'll be going with a multi-point lock with a deeper backset to keep the door tight to the seals - which will be decent quality. Laminated timber is certainly a possibility.

Unfortunately I'm not expecting it to be cheap (nor the custom windows required by the planners), but cheaper than expanding the thermal envelope (another replacement window, door upgrade, walls, etc.).

I must say that the strength of the the wall is my biggest concern - it's actually a metal stud 'party partition'; I'll be reinforcing it with plywood. On the other hand the ceiling & floor aren't going anywhere.

Posted By: owlmanIncidentally why have you opted for loose glazing beads on both faces?

The theory is that it will be cheaper due to the thickness of the door - but if it isn't, then it will be beaded on the external face only...

Posted By: tonyFor me the seals on the hinge side are in the wrong place, I like them to be compressed as the door closes

Me too - that's why the two jambs are different - maybe I wasn't clear enough about which was which.