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General: Likely floor construction of 2000 estate house

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorollied
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2015
     
    Hiya,
    I've read some of the threads on solid floor insulation options, UFH etc, but most refer to older builds. I'm about to buy a house built in 2000, and currently living in a rental of approx same age which has a freezing cold kitchen/floor with Lino tiles. Would you assume solid floor, no insulation, or something else? Ideally I'd want UFH run off the existing gsh, but unsure of minimum build up that would be required. Nu Heat Lo Pro 10 seems to be the lowest, but not sure what else to budget for...??
    Thanks guys.

    Ollie
  2.  
    U value requirement for solid floors in 2000 was 0.25W/m2K So should have (for example) around 50mm PUR. Though at that time it was allowable to offset requirements into other areas - eg reduce floor insulation and increase loft insulation - so a bit of a guess really - Building Control or NHBC may have copies of drawings/specifications though like getting blood out of a stone :( Also the EPC may shed some light - seller should be providing you with this at point of sale. Alternatively you can search for an EPC by postcode here https://www.epcregister.com/reportSearchAddressTerms.html?redirect=reportSearchAddressByPostcode
    • CommentAuthorollied
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2015
     
    Thanks Mike, the epc helpfully says "solid floor, limited insulation, assumed" which seems to be standard.
    For what it's worth the current epc rating is 72, or 215kw/h per m2 per year.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2015 edited
     
    I don't think the Nu Heat Lo Pro 10 has much, if any, insulation value? Looks like it's made from gypsum board. If the existing floor is 100mm+ concrete it could take a long time to heat up?

    Would the UFH be the main source of heat or just to warm the floor for bare feet (eg you plan to retain the rad)?
    • CommentAuthorollied
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2015
     
    If I can do UFH I'd ideally lose the rads d/stairs. The Nu Heat would need something underneath as well I guess, but with minimal build up. Not sure if I'm better just to insulate as much as poss and keep the rads?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2015
     
    Yes
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2015
     
    UFH with lots of insulation below it still takes longer to warm up a room than rads. I have UFH and I reckon it's great for families that have one person at home most days. If you are both out to work I'd stick with rads - that way you can set the heating to go off in the daytime. With UFH you end up setting it to come on really early and by the time the house is warmed up it's time to go to work, then all the heat you put into the slab ends up keeping your cat warm while you're out at work. I exaggerate slightly to make the point.
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: CWattersUFH with lots of insulation below it still takes longer to warm up a room than rads.

    It certainly does!! The rads warm up the air creating hot spots, feels warm quickly. By comparison UFH warms up the mass of the floor, then gradually the air. It takes much longer to feel warm, but does stay warm longer. What CWatters says is my experience too.

    It can be great to free the wall space taken by rads. The lack of convective currents of UFH is also nice. It can make use of lower temp water than a rad CH system needs, all kinds of benefits. But I am finding the slow response quite a challenge to get used to. Also you need to be careful with floor coverings e.g. tiles, laminate or very low tog carpet at a pinch, paddy carpet and underlay is out.

    My vote would be spend money on more insulation first. Go UFH if it sounds like it will suit your lifestyle.
    • CommentAuthorollied
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2015 edited
     
    Yes,good point abt lifestyle. Mostly only the cats at home during the day...!
    Any thoughts on the best low stack insulation for flooring? It will be re floored with marmoleum. And also, assume membrane, then insulation, then screed, then flooring?
    Thanks

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