Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: Ed DaviesJust 'cause something's waterproof doesn't mean it isn't “breathable†(vapour permeable). That's what so-called breathable membranes do for a living. Don't know about silicone render, mind you.
Posted By: mr_magicfingersI'm aiming for 100-120 maxThat's where I would be in a renovation too, unless I was made of money that is, and, indeed, it is what I put on top of my roof - (no loft and is beam and block so really is EWI for a roof).
Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary(I insist on 1 horizontal edge and 1 side continuous bead of adhesive on each board with the rest of the board dot and dab)
Posted By: mr_magicfingersThe windows are yet to be replaced. Once that's done, we'll make good the bits of stonework that require repair and put a scratch coat of lime plaster over to even it upThat suggests the windows will be fixed within the stone zone, insulation to follow. Really important to mount the new windows within the insulation zone, not touching the stone (except for cantilevering mounting brackets or timber/board similar), or you create a big thermal bridge around the window perimeter, which will be the house's concentrated magnet for condensation, seeing you'll have eliminated the all-over magnet that the walls presently are. That's another good reason for minimum 150 EWI thickness - to accomodate the window's thickness plus a bit of external reveal.
Posted By: mr_magicfingersI really doubt, in a house like this, that the extra insulation would make that much differenceIt would!
Posted By: mr_magicfingersyou'll never make this house sufficiently airtight to make it worthwhileYou're doing everthing right to make it airtight.
Posted By: mr_magicfingersRussell Timbertech ... they seem to either do sash windows, which we don't have or very modern tilt windows which don't suit the cottageNo, I suggest their basic (non-PH) sidehung sash windows £325/m2 glazed and factory finished, Uw1.1 - no longer on their revamped website but I'll be upset if they've stopped doing em - if so there are others. Pic attached, full size panes, stick-on glazing bars inside and out).
Posted By: mr_magicfingersyou say up stands aren't needed on the cillsTreat render joint to the cill-tops same as you will to the window face - http://www.wemico.com/assets/04307-wemico-brochure.pdf p22 Window frame seal beads - plus a substantial bead of top grade silicone into the controlled-width gap bethween it and frame/cill-top face.
Posted By: Peter_in_Hungarythere should be a contiguous solid line of adhesive at least on one horizontal edge of the insulation boards to prevent air circulation between the EWI and the wall which would negate the effect of the EWI (I insist on 1 horizontal edge and 1 side continuous bead of adhesive on each board with the rest of the board dot and dab)Agree - this in effect makes a grid of adhesive.