Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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Posted By: Philbobagginsiii
I was leaning towards cladding as with 3 children all under 5, the walls on the back of the house are in for some years of abuse yet! Not sure such a thin layer of render over EPS would withstand it.
Posted By: wookeyIf you did go for battens in the EPS, I'd sink horzontal members 50x100 (3off?)? into the EPS (routed channel) and glue them (with a few through-fixings, as low-conductivity as you can manage). This can be quite strong.
Posted By: Philbobagginsiiidjh - so you just fixed through the EPS into the block, top and bottom of the battens? With the odd middle screw? I guess sitting the battens on the slabs as you said further up the chain really helps here. How thick was the EPS? What fixings did you use?
Posted By: fostertomBut it does make a wall that's thicker (427 or 467) than using a stud 'inner' skin (315)
Posted By: bot de paillePosted By: djhPosted By: fostertomBut it does make a wall that's thicker (427 or 467) than using a stud 'inner' skin (315)
What does the block wall or inner studs do? Surely the I-beams would stand up by themselves?
thermal mass
Posted By: djhWhat does the block wall or inner studs do? Surely the I-beams would stand up by themselves?If that's the inner studs that I introduced into the discussion, that was alternative to using I-beams - i.e. studwork clad with EWI instead of blockwork plus I-beams.
Posted By: an02ewhave you thought about using 300mm ibeams well fixed to external of blockwork @ 800C, then cladded with timbervent and filled with bonded thermal bead(super) then counterbatten and covered with whatever cladding.Is there a condensation risk on the web of the ibeam?
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