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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    I will be wet plastering straight on to standard blockwork internally, and I'm wondering about the junctions between this wet plaster on block and the plaster boarded ceiling and some upstairs stud walls. I dont want coving at ceiling level. What can I do to mitigate cracks etc at these junctions?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015

    Try to avoid but joins, internal corners are easy to deal with
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    Sorry if it's obvious, but I assume you had considered scrim?
    • CommentAuthoratomicbisf
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    Plasterboard ceiling on block wall is pretty standard so I don't see a problem left uncovered.

    Our house has a timber fillet in the wall ceiling angle instead of coving, which gives a lighter less heavy effect. Just a strip of 1.5 x 0.25 inch wood, like a mini skirting board at the top of the wall.

    • CommentAuthorMackers
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    You get specific plaster over angles, their like scrim but do a very good job of not cracking. Have a dig around and you should find them
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    Thanks. Yes, considered scrim, and will use it, but wondered if there was anything else. Mackers, I'll have a look for your suggestion.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2015
    If it becomes a problem you could also look at using an internal radius trowel. Not a big radius but something like 8-10mm and then finish this with a fibreglass reinforced flexible plaster.
    For external angles I use expanded metal lathe and jointing compound. On an internal angle when PB meets that is mounted on dissimilar surfaces I don't like to scrim. I am sure it does work sometimes but it depends on so many factors.

    For sure when I mount PB on my solid stone walls and it meets PB on my suspended ceiling (on metal galv studwork) I prefer to finish sharply at the corner using jointing compound if required because there is a feathered edge - neatly scrape away any excess when nearly set - I even try to make a groove. Then fill with a bead of white acrylic 'silicone' (ie not silicone!) - fingered or spread with a silicone tool (can i use fingered and tool in the same sentence!). I use one that has a textured finish and by the time I have rollered on the paint you can't see it. Fill any large gaps with jointing compound first. No cracks so far.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 19th 2015 edited
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Gotanewlife</cite -
    fingered or spread with a silicone tool (can i use fingered and tool in the same sentence!).

    Only if you omit the "spread" bit in the same sentence, otherwise it's got Freudian overtones. :bigsmile:
    I've done a few of these - have used fibreglass drywall tape and a 90degree trowel, or just done it with a regular trowel. Then fill the corner with a bit of painter's caulk (acrylic, not silicone). This gives a more even edge and makes it easier to get a nice clean "cut" for painting. I've also used paper-faced steel internal angles for this purpose. These are very strong and will not crack - still fill the corner with painter's caulk, though, just to make a clean line. If you don't use anything, you will always get a crack. I find the fibreglass tape a bit easier to work with than the paper drywall tape - but both work OK. At least the fibreglass tape you can stick in place first - makes it easier for wall-to-ceiling joints. The metal angles work OK for this too, but are a tad trickier to get into place.

    Paul in Montreal

    p.s. either plaster or jointing compound works for this, but I usually use jointing compound for the final coat as it's easier to sand
    Paul in Montreal describes pretty much exactly how I would do it. Using using either scrim tape or metal reinforced paper angle with a bit of painters caulk if its really needed.
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