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    Anyone know what fixings I need to secure the other side of the washing post to my EWI'd stone wall? It must have a pulley and be strong...
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2015
    I think a skyhook would do it but I may be wrong.
    Posted By: marktimeI think a skyhook would do it but I may be wrong.

    Never had much luck with skyhooks, wot abaht superglue to the thin film acrylic render?

    Otherwise a long eye-bolt epoxied into the stone wall (Rawlplugs don't hold in my stone walls!) but make sure the load is in a straight line with the bolt, drill through the EWI into the wall fix the eye-bolt with the epoxy then fill any gap between the bolt and the EWI with squirty foam
    I used a convention steel plate with a loop for the pulley. 4 x 200mm Frame fixings. Yes they are a thermal bridge but nothing else is reliable in my view.
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2015
    Posted By: marktimeI think a skyhook would do it but I may be wrong.

    I wouldn't be without mine. Remarkably useful even though I no longer climb, but you still need a solid, albeit tiny ledge.

    "Skyhooks are designed for direct aid on flakes and edges that will not take any other sort of protection. However, many trad climbers carry a skyhook to assist retreat and even for use as a runner in sharp edged pockets, though such a placement would be marginal to say the least!"

    Yes, marginal, but when the alternative is nothing...

    Ah, but of course you were joking... :wink:
    Skyhooks? Jeez, you'll be suggesting rurps next ;D
    Mike, where does one get said hook /plate?

    The hook you'd have to make up, but how about:


    I have been looking through a trailer supplies catalogue for something similar, but got a bit bored after 1000 of 1500 items!

    In terms of the hook I have only just stopped using my 27-year old bent 6 inch nail!
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015
    Posted By: Nick ParsonsI have been looking through a trailer supplies catalogue for something similar, but got a bit bored after 1000 of 1500 items!

    Try equine/stables/riding suppliers for something like "threaded tie ring".
    I got some from the local argricultural merchant up here.

    Nick: If I was in the Hope Valley I'd pop into Eyre's in Brough. If they are anything like they used to be I'd be amazed if they didn't have something like that...
    Good thinking, Skyewright! I immediately thought of boats and trailers, but horses (and indeed pubs - they use such things to hook up the hatches on barrel-runs) may help too!

    I had a friend (now sadly dead) who had just that sort of lateral-thinking mind - I'd ring him up saying ''I need a this to do that'' and he'd come up with something from a hitherto-un-thought-of background.I haven't found someone to replace him!
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2015 edited
    Posted By: VictorianecoMike, where does one get said hook /plate?


    You can get them in any hardware store. I will try and find a pic
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeJun 18th 2015
    Posted By: Mike GeorgeYou can get them in any hardware store. I will try and find a

    With a long enough threaded tie ring (a threaded eye bolt, with a ring through the eye) you only have one piece of metal going through the EWI?
    Probably not a rigid as plate with 4 frame fixings, but good enough for a washing line?
    Yep, maybe , but finding one long enough may prove difficult?

    An eye nut, and use a length of stainless steel threaded rod of appropriate length resin fixed into the masonry if length is a problem. Might want to use a locknut as well, but should be well up the job. Larger diameter of the rod, more rigid - less likely to move around and give water a chance to get in. Also bigger thermal bridge though.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJun 18th 2015
    At least stainless is a lot less thermally conductive than ordinary steel.
    The conductivity not a big deal in the scheme of things though. Why worry about a small cross sectional area of steel when maybe 20 -25% of the external walls are windows....?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJun 18th 2015
    Indeed, for overall heatloss it's not likely to be significant but as a cold spot with potential condensation problems I wonder if it might be.
    Are people genuinely concerned about the thermal bridging of a bolt? :s
    As Ed says, it is the cold spot and condensation forming risk I don't like, it will be cold and wet and with multiple forces on it trying to move it all the time when it is windy and washing on it I would keep a close eye on it to make sure it wasn't letting moisture in behind the render. Bit of flexible sealant round the face perhaps.
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2015
    Posted By: Mike GeorgeYep, maybe , but finding one long enough may prove difficult?

    250mm is not too unusual.
    Longer may be available?

    However, I like willie's ss threaded bar plus eye nut...
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2015
    Posted By: VictorianecoAre people genuinely concerned about the thermal bridging of a bolt?

    It depends on how many bolts and what is attached to them. The thermal bridging caused by attaching a balcony using through bolts is a notorious example where it really does matter a lot.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2015
    Worth actually working out the heat loss for context. With thermal conductivities of 43 and 16 W/(m·K) for carbon and stainless steel respectively the conductances of 200 mm long M12 rod would be 0.0243 and 0.009 W/K.

    In a 3373 heating degree day climate (20°C, Woodley airfield near Reading) this would give annual heat losses of 1.9 and 0.7 kWh. So 0.12% of your allowed heat loss on a 100 m² Passivhaus. Not a lot but you'll be spending on insulation to compensate if you have many bridges like this, as DJH says.
    • CommentAuthorRoger
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2015
    How about a washing line pole?
    I never got round to sorting this as we've managed without, what size threaded bolt would you suggest? M10 sufficient? How far into the wall should it go?
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeAug 3rd 2017
    Personally I would try and find another solution. I do not think it is a good idea to fix things to a house wall that has been rendered in this way. You run the risk of damaging the render if the drill skates about when it cannot get a start on the hole and can you be sure you get into the stone and not the mortar. Then you need to start again. Even though you may use a stainless fixing you will get staining around it as it collects dirt which washes down the wall. Just look around at rendered walls and see the mess some of them look. Can you not put a tube in the ground and put the pole into it when you want to put the line out?
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