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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthornewnight
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2016
     
    I have been reading this Forum for the last few years and really appreciate the knowledge I have gained from the members.

    About to start a New build On Arran off the west coast of Scotland


    The house is large 2 1/2 story 6 Bedroom 6 Bathroom SIPs Build

    Interior Space 396 m2 .

    PLANS
    http://kvisit.com/zymQ
    http://kvisit.com/zyWQ
    http://kvisit.com/zy2Q

    Heating and Hot water ASHP


    Ground Floor: 3 beds, Sitting room,Plant Utility

    1st Floor Kitchen/Dining Living room & Toilet

    Top floor 3 Beds ensuite



    UFH for ground floor Living Room, Hall and part of the Plant/utility room

    UFH in dry cement pug mix between joists for 1st floor

    UFH in all 6 bathrooms and toilet

    Radiators for all bedrooms and upper hall Landing.


    I would prefer if UFH could be split into 3 zones ( Ground, Middle ,Top Floor)+ 1 zone for rads( but I am unsure if all this zoning will compromise the efficiency of the system)

    Would also like pipe spacing <100mm on ground floor and Bathrooms to keep the flow temp low ,perhaps the spacing on the first floor can be more as I also have A double sided Wood Burner 7KW between the lounge and kitchen that I would like to be able to use occasionally.


    I have used the BRE - Calculation tool for design of low temperature domestic heating systems and filled it out to the best of my ability . http://kvisit.com/zyGQ


    Total DHL 12.5kw 4.2kw of this to Rads




    This will be a Holiday Let a good part of the year, sleeping up to 12 people so large water demand (Heat Store/Buffer).Though at times only 2-4 of us

    I am planning 2 x Nibe F2040 12w

    I have already purchased 1 Nibe f2040 with VVM 320 indoor unit as I managed to get a good deal on EBAY

    VVM320 stores180L, do I need 500L or 750L cylinder or 2 smaller units for flexibility when the Hot water demand is lower


    Although I will get a MCS accredited Designer I would be grateful for an Ideas or suggestions regarding the design and setup beforehand

    Thanks
    JB
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2016
     
    Is it going to be let much in the winter (e.g, over Christmas)? I'm wondering if peak heating load would happen at a different time from peak DHW (domestic hot water) load so the peak heating required would be less than the sum of these. If the peak DHW requirement is in the summer would some solar input help?
  1.  
    You've obviously got 3-phase then?

    So your space-heating requirement is 4.2kW? I maybe don't have to ask how good your U values are then!

    I hope so, with SIPs, but are you confident that the thermal bridging is reduced to its lowest possible level? I don't have experience with SIPs, but I know they have occasional timbers in. My experience of a couple of TF new-builds is that if,for example, any openings are sized too big, there is a tendency to fill them in with solid timber, ignoring the massive thermal b ridge this causes.

    Good luck with the build.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2016
     
    Posted By: Nick ParsonsSo your space-heating requirement is 4.2kW?
    As I read it, that's to the radiators. There's also the UFH.

    “DHL” (apart from the parcel company) is not one I've heard before: domestic heat load? Would that include the DHW?
    • CommentAuthornewnight
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2016
     
    Ed,
    The total load for Space heating is 12.5 kW.
    I did look at Solar but decided against from a design point of view,also trying to reign in the budget.
    The house will be let in the Winter as well.
  2.  
    ''also trying to reign in the budget''

    I think the Chancellor of the Exchequer tries to do that!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2016 edited
     
    I think you are going to struggle to get a decent CoP out of any heat pump if you try and deliver that much hot water. They will be defrosting a lot

    You may be better off with a 500lt cylinder heated to no more than 40°C then have individual modulating inline heaters for each bathroom.
    That way your ASHP is running more efficiently and you only have to lift up another 10 to 15°C for the tap.
    You also get the advantage if the guests use up all the stored water, they can still get hot water.

    500lt of water boosted from 10°C to 40°C will take 17.5 kWh.
    Assuming a flow rate of 15lt/min at the tap and 5 minutes to fill a bath or have a long shower will need another 0.8 kWh (about 10 kW heater).

    It does all depend on the weather though, if it is cold and dry you get less frosting up than of it is warmer and humid.
    Ideally you need some sort of control system that can recharge the store at a better CoP when there is no hot water being drawn i.e. night time, then at a worse CoP when DHW is being drawn as that will hopefully only be running for a few minutes at a time and it can defrost naturally.
  3.  
    I seem to remember someone on here mentioning that the outdoor units of ASHPs have a very short service life on the Scottish islands do to the effects of the salt air.

    Something to ask about locally.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2016
     
    Posted By: Chris P Baconvery short service life on the Scottish islands do to the effects of the salt air.
    I went around taking pictures of old ASHP that were within a few tens of meters of the sea down here.
    Does to seem to be a problem. The one at Land's End is really old and still going strong.
    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2016 edited
     
    How much is your system set to cost you to buy and install?

    And Arran's particularly wet, so damp air is more likely to cause problems for the ASHP's efficiency. Also, as someone on this forum pointed out, air source heat pumps in principle perform worse for heating new, well insulated buildings, since such buildings only need to be heated when the outdoor temp is colder, which is when ASHP's COPs drop off.

    That's less of an issue for hot water, but as ST points out, they just don't seem to be particularly good for hot water, due to a combination of the high temperatures they need to supply (bad for COP) and, I think, standing losses in the tank.

    Anyway, ASHPs in the UK seem to average system performance factors of about 2.5 on average. That means associated emissions are only about 10-20% lower than LPG (and natural gas). I suspect, given your location and insulation, that you risk getting a bit less than that (over-sizing the system might help, but I'm not sure with air to water systems).

    On the west of Scotland, you might want to consider the following options, depending what's important to you (I don't have enough info to give a strong recommendation, perhaps others can - it's just interesting to consider from my point of view too):

    1. Oil boiler. Currently very cheap to run (probably as cheap, if not cheaper, than natural gas?), and installation costs -should- (although I don't know) be lower than an ASHP I imagine. But not very green. But if you're well insulated, you won't need much heating, offsetting this.

    2. LPG. I think -a bit- more expensive to run than ASHP, but not that much. And pretty green (as good as natural gas) and similar install costs to oil boiler (IF you can get LPG delivered at a reasonable price to Arran).

    3. Storage heaters for heating. Very cheap if you can get economy 7 (as cheap as natural gas, so quite a bit cheaper than an ASHP), although not very green (but you won't do all that much heating), and cheap to install.

    Presumably you can get pretty cheap hot water with E7 too. If not, you could use LPG or propane cylinders -just- to provide on demand hot water. Get a couple of big cylinders that can easily be switched between. Will be pretty green, not too expensive to run, and the capital costs should be far lower than heat pump systems (no tanks etc.).

    Hmm, I suspect there might be a few holes in my thoughts here. Someone will be able to correct!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2016 edited
     
    I don't think that there is any real problem for the space heating. That is not related to the 'amount' needed, that is just a case of sizing the ASHP correctly. Not as if you need the UFH to be higher than 35°C. You can look at your heat pump CoP/Temperature curve and local temp and RH data to see what is needed.

    It is the hot water that is the real problem, here you do need a high temperature. Disregarding the legionella problem, you really need hot water at about 50°C. An ASHP can deliver at that temperature, but the longer it is running, the more likely it is to frost up. This is often worse around 0°C ambient temperature as the RH can be close to 100%.

    Ideally you need two DHW cylinders, one large on at 35-40°C, heated from the ASHP and a smaller one (but big enough to supply your needs) connected to the 35-40°C supply and then lifted 'by other means' to 50+°C.

    I am a fan of E7 with resistance heating for DHW as it is cheap to install, very reliable, can be controlled well.
    I don't like the environmental issues with electrical generation, but that is slowly changing (Scotland is a large supplier of RE electricity, so depends where you want to measure, is Scotland a separate country, or is it Scotland, England).
    E7 is also an old tariff that was introduced as part of our nuclear program. Even if we do get 3 new nuclear power stations in the next 30 years (and I doubt we will get one at the moment), the contributions from nuclear are still declining. So no need to have the E7 tariff (smart metering and control changes all this).

    As this place is really a 'small hotel' and not an environmental retreat, pragmatism has to be at the forefront.
    So ASHP for space heating (for those really bad winters, fan heaters in a cupboard).
    That just leaves the hot water. Preheat with ASHP and then boost with electricity (either via secondary cylinder or in line heaters), or oil/LPG that can accept a 40°C input.
    Some PV could offset the electrical running costs. A 10 kWp array could supply you in the summer, just a case of looking at the price of all the options. Ă‚ÂŁ10,000 of PV into a Ă‚ÂŁ1000 store via a Ă‚ÂŁ50 element plus some bought in electricity, or the price of alternatives. None of it is going to be cheap or free to run.

    This may help:
    http://www.franklinenergy.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/AirSource-Heat-Pump-Efficiency-Gains-2011.pdf
    • CommentAuthoralec
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2016
     
    You don't say what the floor coverings are..but these can play havoc with low temperature UFH..Rads win here as do embedded heat in walls....
  4.  
    That's a very good point. I have UFH friendly underlay and carpet in my lounge but it totally kills the UFH when compared to the tiles.

    Good luck.
    • CommentAuthornewnight
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconI seem to remember someone on here mentioning that the outdoor units of ASHPs have a very short service life on the Scottish islands do to the effects of the salt air.


    There are plenty of ashp installed on Scottish Islands and on Arran in Particular.I am planning on Blygold anti-corrosion coating.

    Posted By: SteamyTea
    I don't think that there is any real problem for the space heating. That is not related to the 'amount' needed, that is just a case of sizing the ASHP correctly. Not as if you need the UFH to be higher than 35°C. You can look at your heat pump CoP/Temperature curve and local temp and RH data to see what is needed.

    It is the hot water that is the real problem, here you do need a high temperature. Disregarding the legionella problem, you really need hot water at about 50°C. An ASHP can deliver at that temperature, but the longer it is running, the more likely it is to frost up. This is often worse around 0°C ambient temperature as the RH can be close to 100%.


    That is one of my worries.I have already purchased 1 Nibe f2040 12 KW Pack IB.I realise that the main problem is the hot water delivery,If I add 16KW unit giving me 28 Kw in total plus 500l cylinder with immersion heater for legionella there should be less recycling.The the en-suites will have showers not baths, valves factory preset @38°C,this is what we have at present and no one in the house feels the need to alter this .



    Posted By: GarethCair source heat pumps in principle perform worse for heating new, well insulated buildings, since such buildings only need to be heated when the outdoor temp is colder, which is when ASHP's COPs drop off.


    Do you really think they perform better in old drafty buildings? What buildings don't require heating when the temp is colder,I'm afraid I don't understand your logic.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2016
     
    Posted By: newnightDo you really think they perform better in old drafty buildings?
    It would be reasonable to expect that a heat pump which is running for more of the year, (e.g., one for an old drafty building) would have a higher COP averaged over the year than one that only runs during a few coldest months. In that rather limited sense they would perform better.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2016
     
    Heat pumps work best when the heating system can heat the building using "warm" rather then "hot" water. This is hard unless the building is well insulated.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2016 edited
     
    Have I ever mentioned that space heating and DHW do different things at different times and at different temperatures.
    Expecting the two from one ASHP is the wrong way of thinking about it. They are not gas, oil or resistance heater, don't expect them to work in the same way.
    You are not going to get DHW at 50°C and the maximum CoP, physics does not work like that. This is not a 'fault' with heat pumps, just a limit that has to be considered.

    There is an economic theory called 'Division of Labour', this applies to heating systems just as well as production of wine and rugs. It basically states that it is often cheaper to occasionally buy in a product that is more expensive than you can make it for, than loose the sales. It is about reliability and overall cost.

    Here is some grown up reading:

    http://www.esru.strath.ac.uk/Documents/MSc_2011/Baster.pdf

    http://www.ecaa.ntu.edu.tw/weifang/hp/heatpumpEng/Experimentl%20study%20on%20frost%20growth%20and%20dynamic%20performance%20of%20air%20source%20heat%20pmp%20system.pdf

    http://web.ornl.gov/info/reports/1987/3445605458616.pdf
    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: newnightDo you really think they perform better in old drafty buildings?
    It would be reasonable to expect that a heat pump which is running for more of the year, (e.g., one for an old drafty building) would have a higher COP averaged over the year than one that only runs during a few coldest months. In that rather limited sense they would perform better.


    Yes, this is kind of what I meant. Essentially, if your home needs to be heated when it's 15 degrees outside, the ASHP will at least do so at a stratospheric COP. All other things being equal, that's not a bad thing (e.g. if it does so far more efficiently than even a high efficiency natural gas boiler would)

    I do take ST's point though. In theory, both a well insulated (big) home and a poorly insulated (small) home could need the same sized heat pump with the same efficiency performance.

    But in practise, I've always assumed that well insulated homes tend only to switch the heating on at all at significantly lower outside temperatures because they are less draughty, so feel comfortable at lower temperatures, and also other sources of heat, not least people but also appliances, contribute meaningfully to the heat demand. Is that not the case? If it is, the heat pump for the well insulated house will perform with a lower COP.

    On reflection though, I realise it might not make as much difference as I thought, even if that is correct. If the draughty house switches on the heating when it's 15 degrees outside, and the well insulated one switches it on at 10 degrees, then I don't think the difference in performance will be all that much... Not sure. If the well insulated one only switched heating on when it was five degrees outside, it -would- make a difference, but that's clearly not going to be the case.
    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaHave I ever mentioned that space heating and DHW do different things at different times and at different temperatures.
    Expecting the two from one ASHP is the wrong way of thinking about it. They are not gas, oil or resistance heater, don't expect them to work in the same way.
    You are not going to get DHW at 50°C and the maximum CoP, physics does not work like that. This is not a 'fault' with heat pumps, just a limit that has to be considered.

    There is an economic theory called 'Division of Labour', this applies to heating systems just as well as production of wine and rugs. It basically states that it is often cheaper to occasionally buy in a product that is more expensive than you can make it for, than loose the sales. It is about reliability and overall cost.



    Well, yes, but of course there's a capital cost + installation hassle vs. running cost + performance trade off, and I think that's key to deciding whether to divide the 'labour' or not.

    If installing two separate systems to deliver heating and hot water (very efficiently/cheaply) costs twice as much as installing one system to do both (less well), then it's not clear that the first solution is the optimal one.

    I.e. if employing two workers to do separate jobs results is greater and better output, but that increased, better output is not worth doubling wages, then it's not worth doing.

    Now, it doesn't matter much if the capital cost and hassle isn't great relative to running cost + performance, but of course it generally is, isn't it?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2016
     
    GarethC
    Yes, it is always a problem to work out what is the best system. Not a case of 'one size fits all'.
    So a bit of arithmetic needs to be done.

    If you take a house that needs 1000 kWh/year for heating and 1500 kWh/year for DHW (or what ever you think you need).
    Assuming that the only thing that is different is the 'boiler', then it becomes a bit easier.
    Just plug in the relative numbers and away you go.

    The one big thing that is unknown is future energy costs, but history can help a bit, as can future fixed prices i.e. CfD on Nuclear, Wind and Solar.
    Generally across the EU, and historically in the UK, domestic energy prices have been about 5% of household income.
    • CommentAuthornewnight
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaExpecting the two from one ASHP is the wrong way of thinking about it. They are not gas, oil or resistance heater, don't expect them to work in the same way.
    You are not going to get DHW at 50°C and the maximum CoP, physics does not work like that. This is not a 'fault' with heat pumps, just a limit that has to be considered.


    I do understand cops and how ASHPs work. The fact is I need hot water all the year round, probably more May-October when the average temperature is 12.25°C.
    Nibe shows Cop 3.66 @ 7/45°C
    3.09@ 7/55°C
    If I get anything like that it seems reasonably efficient to me. Obviously it will be less efficient the other 6 months of the year when the average temp Nov-April is 6°C but still an average cop over 2 @45°C flow temp seems good to me.

    If you have any better alternative how to achieve this other than solar (which I really don't want) I would be glad to hear it.

    I was really hoping for some suggestions on how best to design the system. Can anyone advise, if I go for 2 outdoor units, are they better as one connected system or should I run 2 separate systems 1 for heating and 1 for hot water
    Any design advice or suggestions that anyone has to offer will be much appreciated

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthornewnight
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: newnightCan anyone advise, if I go for 2 outdoor units, are they better as one connected system or should I run 2 separate systems 1 for heating and 1 for hot water


    Do I need 2 ASHPs 12+ 12kw or 12 + 16kw

    or could I manage with one 16 KW Pump if the Heat loss for the building is 12.5KW
  5.  
    I cannot remember whether you said you had 3-phase.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    If the maximum heat loss is 12.5 kW, then a 16 kW ASHP will do you.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaIf the maximum heat loss is 12.5 kW, then a 16 kW ASHP will do you.

    He wants DHW as well ...
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: SteamyTeaIf the maximum heat loss is 12.5 kW, then a 16 kW ASHP will do you.

    He wants DHW as well ...


    Firstly it depends on how the maximum heat loss is worked out and how many days every 5 years it will be cold enough outside to get it. Then you need to consider how long you are willing to wait for the house to warm up when it is very cold outside and the heating has been off for some time.

    The average kW over the complete day that is needed for hot water is not that high, so allow 3.5 kW may well be enough, but how much more will a bigger ASHP cost and would a larger ASHP be happy when the demand is less....
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiThen you need to consider how long you are willing to wait for the house to warm up when it is very cold outside and the heating has been off for some time.

    I think this oft-cited concern is overstated. If the house iw well-insulated then warming it up from cold is a pretty rare event so efficiency doesn't matter and it's cheap and easy to plug in a few electric heaters to increase the power output at times like that.

    The average kW over the complete day that is needed for hot water is not that high

    But more often than not there are reasons to not want to average it over the whole day. Traditionally recovery time is the metric for hot water heating. There can also be concerns like wanting it to happen overnight during E7 hours.

    But I'm no ASHP design guru...
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    Posted By: djhBut more often than not there are reasons to not want to average it over the whole day.
    Yes. But space heating can be averaged over longer periods, particularly if you have a UHF slab, so if there's a simple way to divert all/most of the heat pump output to DHW when recovery (reheating the tank) is wanted then that should be fine. Running the ASHP at DHW temperatures for only a short period will help with the long-term average CoP.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2016
     
    Posted By: djh

    I think this oft-cited concern is overstated. If the house iw well-insulated then warming it up from cold is a pretty rare event so efficiency doesn't matter and it's cheap and easy to plug in a few electric heaters to increase the power output at times like that.


    It depends how the “head demand” was worked out in the first place.

    We live in the North West, if the heat demand is worked out assuming it is -1 outside, and there is a long cold patch like a few years ago when it is -5 outside AND you are trying to heat a house from cold…..

    The ASHP may already be taking a lot of the incoming power to the building, so you can’t run many electric heaters. The ASHP would also be giving less than its rated output due to it being -5 outside.

    I think what I am trying to say is that you need a safety margin somewhere and the “heat from cold” is often what the safety margin is called.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiIt depends how the “head demand” was worked out in the first place.

    We live in the North West, if the heat demand is worked out assuming it is -1 outside, and there is a long cold patch like a few years ago when it is -5 outside AND you are trying to heat a house from cold…..

    System sizing should be done from the max heat load, not the average heat demand. i.e. instantaneous power required at -10°C rather than annual energy demand at say -1°C. But yes there wil be some times when the outside temperature drops to -20°C. In that case you rely on three things: (1) the averaging of space heating mentioned by Ed, (2) additional heaters such as I'm suggesting for warming from cold and (3) an acceptance that conditions are outside spec and you'll need to wear extra jumpers whilst it is so cold outside.

    The ASHP may already be taking a lot of the incoming power to the building, so you can’t run many electric heaters. The ASHP would also be giving less than its rated output due to it being -5 outside.

    Agreed that heat pump sizing needs to be done carefully. If you've sized your electric supply so that there's not much more than the ASHP takes then I think you've made a major design mistake. The house is presumably all electric since otherwise the answer to heating it would be a gas fire. So there's likely at least 10 kW of additional demand in the kitchen alone. Then there's whatever else you've allowed for.

    So I agree that it is possible to cock up heat pump system designs and it gets done scarily often, but I don't think there's a problem if it's done right.
   
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