I am just getting quotes together for new windows, and just wondered if/why people choose to have their windows fitted, or fitted their windows themselves.

I did not think that this part of the build would be so fiddly, especially when there seem to be mfrs that give you 1yr warranty, but 10 years if fitted by them (for £200/window, of course!).

N.B I am looking at timber casement, so pretty simple, operationally/structurally.

Fitted all of mine myself.

I'm planning to fit some new wooden sash windows myself this year. The carpenter who is making them is brilliant but he is from up north and doesn't like to spend too much time away from his family so he won't want to stick around and fit them.

If you can do better than squirty foam then go for it.

Having watched my builders (not the window suppliers) install the windows it looks like a fairly straightforward job. As some others have said above if you do it yourself and take your time then the airtightness is likely to be a lot better.

Two things which would make me nervous about doing it myself / DIY:
1. I'm fearful I'd get the measuring up wrong and order windows that don't fit. This problem could be avoided if you get the suppliers to come any measure.
2. Having the muscle to get the windows into place. Some of my bigger windows / sliding doors had five or six people lifting them. I'd never have got them installed DIY

It ain't rocket science.

Measuring wise, you have to decide how they are going to be installed. Normally a window will be in check on at least 3/4 edges and 1/2 faces but you can fall into the trap of not allowing clearance to make it possible to slide the frame behind the plaster line or a stone surround......A manufacturer is unlikely to care too much, rehearsing the scenario in your head and with rods cut to width and length makes more sense.

But what about FENSA?

''But what about FENSA?''

You don't need FENSA if you go through normal Building Regs channels.

One thing to take account of is that (where I live anyway) a Building Notice for windows covers up to 12 windows. If, like me, you are doing window replacement on a very slow cycle, you may have the irritation of paying £150 every time you do 1 or 2 windows. Save them up, if you can!!

Thanks all. Looks like the DIY route, certainly not something I'm afraid of doing. All will be done via building regs.

Anyone have issues getting the windows adjusted/sealed correctly after installation?

Have a bifold going in, but have read problems of them being fiddly to align (and heavy!) so the supplier will be fitting those for sure!

Posted By: richardelliotI'm fearful I'd get the measuring up wrong and order windows that don't fit. This problem could be avoided if you get the suppliers to come any measure.

Many suppliers will cater for massive tolerances when it comes to measuring. Then when it come to installation, the big gaps around the frame are covered up by bits of PVC that are leakier than a sieve. That's what seems to have happened in the house I'm in anyway. More frame than glass!!

Posted By: tonyIf you get sizes wrong it is not difficult to alter openings.

That depends on the construction technology. In particular, making a floor to ceiling window too high can be a problem.

Posted By: tonySplayed head up into the cavity?

What cavity?

You're assuming construction technology again.

Hi, After advice on installing windows in the best way for fairly standard property as "best as possible".
I cannot start a new discussion - so as I work around I will post here.

Having trouble posting this is about 3rd go. I am trying to improve thermal performance of the mostly 1950s house. Triple glazed UPVC being installed. (as rooms used frequently) all across back of house. The rest of the house is UPVC and they are no where near needing replacement. (23 years old)

Taking out patio doors and moving to single door and windows for warmth and better view of garden.
Walls are brick with cavity and blown and newer part 65mm cavity bats brick and block

I am finally doing a lot of changes to the house. Installing some new window openings and changing some others.
a) best cavity closures and how to fit and seal.
b)Is it worth using TP 654 compraband tape - would stick to frames before fitting
c) I am assuming air tightness tape is only for next level of air tightness and it would not be worth it for me ?
d) can kingspan be put in cavity to beef up insulation behind the cavity closure - some DPC used on outer bricks ?
e)Do I install them partly into the cavity ?

Thanks in advance

Posted By: djhputting some airtightness tape around the windows now in case you need it in future is a lot simpler than hacking back plaster or whatever later,

+1

We let the installers do ours including external seals etc. (to get the warranty), but then I went around and taped the inside with pro-clima. It was really straightforward to do and the tape costs something like £1 per metre, which in the grand scheme of things is nothing really.

Always worth getting the easy wins on airtightness even if you aren't targeting super low performance - it's just one less place to feel a draught!

Posted By: LFIt is very sad how difficult it is to install windows thermally efficiently.

I don't think it is particularly difficult, but it is quite complicated, especially when normal practice is different. But if you understand what you want and any helpers are willing to follow your directions, it's not too bad. Good luck!

I always install my own windows, air sealing issues, support/airtightness of the sill.

Thermal bridging