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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2016
     
    I need to internally insulate a circa 1850 solid brick walled kitchen as part of the change of use I'm doing (lime pointed wall, concrete floor, no foundations or damp proof). The walls of the kitchen are far from vertical so I'm thinking about building a stud wall and insulating between studs.

    I am concerned about breathability having spent the last year removing waterproof materials inside and out which caused huge damage. Over the years the waterproofing developed the odd crack which would let water in but not out. My own rules elsewhere in the house are to either use breathable insulation applied directly to a breathable wall with a lime plaster. If I must build a stud wall I've added a vapour barrier to the inside of the stud wall and ventilate behind to outside.

    Any ideas for insulation construction for the kitchen that I might feel comfortable with? I'll be knocking it about a little so most things ought to be possible. I only need a U value around 0.3 or 0.35 for the walls to satisfy building regs. Parts of the building have been here for 400 years and I would feel I have done a bad job if the things I do need to be done again before another 100 years.
    • CommentAuthorsmudger
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2016
     
    I've been looking into insulation specs too.....of the oil based on EPS is 'somewhat' breathable / permeable (take your pick on terminology).

    Of the 'natural' insulations it comes down to personal preferences and u values (all late '30's/40's however but comparable to EPS anyway unless graphite at 0.032). Cork interests me as it requires no binders or flame retardents added (and can lime over). If stud walling you will probably have to do 'layers' to avoid cold briding at studs so ether rigid or mix of batts between and rigid over.

    Could also look at insulating lime renders (might not get to u value req) or aerogel (expensive unless space constrained). My walls are 'straight' so I'm trying to avoid having any timber in the wall at all.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2016
     
    Wood fibre insulation boards onto a lime backing coat (also the airtight layer)? lime over the top.
    If any really strong fixing points are needed plan ahead and put in some wooden blocks/battens that you can fix to.
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2016
     
    Some good points there. It would be nice to avoid a wood frame in the wall if it is not breathable or ventilated.

    Building regs seem keen the kitchen is 30minute fire resistant which in their view requires plasterboard, though I can't see why external brick walls would need to be fire resistant, and doubt that woodfibre board would be any worse than celotex in a fire. Has anyone had this argument with building regs? Might be worth me talking to suppliers for backup.

    I'm using woodfibre board in the rest of the house on a lime backing coat. I could do that in the kitchen if I apply the backing plaster a good inch thick in places so the wall straightness might not be a real issue.
  1.  
    NBT do a Pavadentro ('Pavadry') wood-fibre board with Plasterboard bonded to it.
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2016 edited
     
    I just don't like plasterboard. I like lime. Having said that I'll have to board the kitchen ceiling in plasterboard for the fire resistance which unfortunately means ripping out what is there and straightening out the joists.

    Problem with the more traditional materials is they don't tend to be fire tested as they aren't mainstream any more. Makes the box ticking tricky. At least the house will be safe with a class B fire alarm, protected exits, new fire doors, new fire egress windows etc.
  2.  
    Actually, my memory was wrong anyway! The Pavadry has an MDF layer, designed to *take* plasterboard, but (a) I hate MDF and (b) I can't personally reconcile wood-fibre and plasterboard.If you are using WF, lime seems the 'right' topping.
    • CommentAuthorsmudger
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2016
     
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 14th 2016
     
    Posted By: vordBuilding regs seem keen the kitchen is 30minute fire resistant which in their view requires plasterboard,

    I can't be bothered looking it up, but I don't believe building regs mandate plasterboard anywhere. If you really believe it does, perhaps you could quote the section? FWIW my kitchen has a mix of lime over straw bales on external walls, and gypsum over MR plasterboard over OSB on internal stud walls and my building inspector seemed happy enough.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeMar 14th 2016 edited
     
    no, pb is not mandated, but the FR 30min or 60min is.
    There are many and various methods of achieving this, FR p/b is often the easiest, but not always...
    Cheers:smile:
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeMar 14th 2016
     
    Thinking about it the inspection is scheduled for after insulation but before plaster. If the worst comes to the worst I can nod and make happy sounds about plasterboard and then just do it in lime so it works. :bigsmile:

    Wood fibre board has a fire rating of E, while Celotex looks like F (on the EU scale where A is best) so they can't argue the insulation will be any more flammable.
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