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Housing - Renovation: Fixing EPS to sheathing

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    Yet another post about my old bungalow and the renovation of the first room in the old structure, sorry if this is getting a bit boring now, but you lot are so helpful!

    1) I'm wondering about how to best fix the 100mm EPS EWI (including thin render system) to the original T&G flush shiplap sheathing boards. To my mind, a combination of the Ceresit adhesive (the same stuff used to bed in the mesh) and low expanding foam for edges and corners should be suitable? I'm reluctant to stick mechanical fixings in, introducing possible thermal bridges without the necessity.

    2) Since the shiplap boards are rebated at the top, would filling this void with squirty foam prior to immediate application of the EPS be acceptable?

    3) An old conservatory, which will be removed and replaced with a proper extension in the next year or so sits at one end of this section of outside wall. Fitting EPS tight to this would be a total waste of time since I'll need a straight termination to join in with when the conservatory is removed and replaced. I plan to fit a batten to give me a straight termination point just before the join of the two 'walls', fix the EPS and finish the job, remove the batten and backfill this area with foam as a temporary measure. Hardly an attractive solution, but it should hold up for a while. There is a really decent roof overhang, so the chance of water penetration at this temporary join is minimal.

    Here's a pic of the area I'm badly trying to explain - http://imgur.com/xWseXAh
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2016
     
    on question 1.

    I would go with a mechanical fix as well. You could get some movement in the build up - different rates of thermal expansion and contraction, maybe vibration as you do further work on the structure, etc. Not sure I'd want to rely on a bond with just the glue. Personally would play safe and use mechanical fixings as well, as an illustration see the wetherby system fixings called Termofix. The metal screw is recessed down into the fixing, reducing the thermal bridge.
  3.  
    That's a good point Mark, I hadn't considered movement from further development work. I've got a large box of nail type EWI plastic fixings, do you think I could utilise these? I could modify them by using 120mm goldscrews with the plastic plug cut short rather than the hammered in nail fixing?
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 13th 2016
     
    I guess it would be fine so long as the fixing will be held securely by the head of screw. Is the fixing the type which is basically a big rawl plug, with a core which is hammered home to force the outer to expand and hold on the substrate?
  5.  
    Yes that's the type. I'll get it fixed up with adhesive first off and stick in some mechanical fixings accordingly.
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 13th 2016 edited
     
    seems OK to me just so long as there's not scope for the screw to be pulled through fixing. Ideally I think you'd want the screw head postively stopped on the face of the fixing hole/sleeve, anchoring the fixing rather than being pulled into it/through it. ideal if the face the screw head anchors to is recessed below the overall face of the fixing.
  7.  
    Those were my thoughts too, I think I can make do with what I've got in that case. Any thoughts regards the other two points before I crack on?
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 13th 2016
     
    if using ahesive then you mgith be able to apply that to fill the recesses and then a further coat over the face of the whole surface? I've only looked at EWI fixing to a rendered wall so not read up on fixing to timber, so not sure on using adhesive on timber.

    for the later join once conservatory is gone. I think you might be able to use an EWI render movement/expansion joint profile as a temporary stop. Obivously render up to one side only, later continue the EWI and render on from the conservatory side of the joint/movement bead.
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      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeApr 13th 2016
     
    Get your EWI materials supplier's regional rep to come to site and advise. Parex are v gd at that.
  10.  
    Considered filling the recess up, but I think foam might be a better filler as the EWI adhesive may crack leaving little voids. The foam will also add to adhesion I suppose too.

    Giving the wall a complete covering may affect the potential for the wall to breathe out, so I was initially planning on say a 50% coverage.

    Tom, not possible. I've bought a small amount of material from a guy off eBay to see how we get on with it outside just this one room before committing to using it around the whole property. If you know of a good value supplier that can compare with Ebay prices, I'll gladly use a more 'official' route in future.

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